MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
#626
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
WELCOME JERRY!!!
Hooray, we have another MOKI owner and it sounds like a cool project. T28 is one of my favorites. Please keep us posted on it.
Thanks for the Prop/RPM info. That's a good combo and more info/spec's for our MOKI notebooks.
Good luck Jerry and please add what you can and when you can!
We welcome all new owners to the MOKI Brotherhood!
Round engines rule, they sure as hell sound good,
Scott
Hooray, we have another MOKI owner and it sounds like a cool project. T28 is one of my favorites. Please keep us posted on it.
Thanks for the Prop/RPM info. That's a good combo and more info/spec's for our MOKI notebooks.
Good luck Jerry and please add what you can and when you can!
We welcome all new owners to the MOKI Brotherhood!
Round engines rule, they sure as hell sound good,
Scott
#629
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
I tapped into the ring at the topmost spot. The Sullivan Skywriter pump is what I use as it's programmable to lessen the amount of oil injected as the throttle is reduced. It's batteries are also self contained. Ask Scott P about my Moki smoke!!!! Mitch
#630
Thread Starter
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Hey that smoke was so thick it grounded all flights out of the UK for two weeks!!! He he he. It was awesome.
Mitch, I just bought the same one for my Wildcat. High speed straffing run with smoke on baby...I can't wait! I miss you guys already. I'm having Top Gun withdrawl???
See you soon,
Scott
Mitch, I just bought the same one for my Wildcat. High speed straffing run with smoke on baby...I can't wait! I miss you guys already. I'm having Top Gun withdrawl???
See you soon,
Scott
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
I heard that!!!!!!!!!!!!!
A "Smoking Purring kitty Cat" sounds good to me!!!!
Just to get you in the mood Scott http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5HfU...eature=related
Cheers GB
WWW.TIGERMODELS.NET
A "Smoking Purring kitty Cat" sounds good to me!!!!
Just to get you in the mood Scott http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5HfU...eature=related
Cheers GB
WWW.TIGERMODELS.NET
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Hello radial lovers !
Great thread! I have read it from the start and will make my contribution to "speculation and supposition" :-) (quote from Stuart Mackay)
I have been using this engine(Moki 215) for four years and here are my experiences:
Fuel: use ready mixed(2%) fuel from "Stihl". It is fuel for the the german made chain saw. After 60+ liters of burned fuel, my piston tops are all shiny and ALL my spark plugs are chocolate colored.
The engine idles at 500 and not a "glitch" from bottom to top rpm.
Choke: Dismantle the choke. Use a brass tube that point directly into the carb and give it a shot before start. My engine starts at the first flip EVERY time !
Props: If you are a scale buff you can use really big propellers. I have a three bladed 34" solo prop on my fw190 ( see my gallery). To get enough forward speed, I had to set the pitch so the engine rpm was approx 3000. Even at this rpm, the engine pulled my 22kg bird with sufficent power. Drawback: if engine stops in the air, it is a serious drag.
Cooling: it is more important to cool the ignition unit than the engine. If this unit gets to warm, the engine slowly stops-
For what it's worth.
/Straightleg
Great thread! I have read it from the start and will make my contribution to "speculation and supposition" :-) (quote from Stuart Mackay)
I have been using this engine(Moki 215) for four years and here are my experiences:
Fuel: use ready mixed(2%) fuel from "Stihl". It is fuel for the the german made chain saw. After 60+ liters of burned fuel, my piston tops are all shiny and ALL my spark plugs are chocolate colored.
The engine idles at 500 and not a "glitch" from bottom to top rpm.
Choke: Dismantle the choke. Use a brass tube that point directly into the carb and give it a shot before start. My engine starts at the first flip EVERY time !
Props: If you are a scale buff you can use really big propellers. I have a three bladed 34" solo prop on my fw190 ( see my gallery). To get enough forward speed, I had to set the pitch so the engine rpm was approx 3000. Even at this rpm, the engine pulled my 22kg bird with sufficent power. Drawback: if engine stops in the air, it is a serious drag.
Cooling: it is more important to cool the ignition unit than the engine. If this unit gets to warm, the engine slowly stops-
For what it's worth.
/Straightleg
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
I know about that thick smoke too ...came around the turn towards downwind and Mitch is blowing smoke center field...hey where's Ethel?
nice video Graham...was great to see your two birds together!
straightleg....thanks for the input...any advice for running the Fw190 fan with a Moki..I here different opinions on it and the problems with the fan for a radial set up?
nice video Graham...was great to see your two birds together!
straightleg....thanks for the input...any advice for running the Fw190 fan with a Moki..I here different opinions on it and the problems with the fan for a radial set up?
#634
Thread Starter
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ORIGINAL: Straightleg
Hello radial lovers !
Great thread! I have read it from the start and will make my contribution to ''speculation and supposition'' :-) (quote from Stuart Mackay)
I have been using this engine(Moki 215) for four years and here are my experiences:
Fuel: use ready mixed(2%) fuel from ''Stihl''. It is fuel for the the german made chain saw. After 60+ liters of burned fuel, my piston tops are all shiny and ALL my spark plugs are chocolate colored.
The engine idles at 500 and not a ''glitch'' from bottom to top rpm.
Choke: Dismantle the choke. Use a brass tube that point directly into the carb and give it a shot before start. My engine starts at the first flip EVERY time !
Props: If you are a scale buff you can use really big propellers. I have a three bladed 34'' solo prop on my fw190 ( see my gallery). To get enough forward speed, I had to set the pitch so the engine rpm was approx 3000. Even at this rpm, the engine pulled my 22kg bird with sufficent power. Drawback: if engine stops in the air, it is a serious drag.
Cooling: it is more important to cool the ignition unit than the engine. If this unit gets to warm, the engine slowly stops-
For what it's worth.
/Straightleg
Hello radial lovers !
Great thread! I have read it from the start and will make my contribution to ''speculation and supposition'' :-) (quote from Stuart Mackay)
I have been using this engine(Moki 215) for four years and here are my experiences:
Fuel: use ready mixed(2%) fuel from ''Stihl''. It is fuel for the the german made chain saw. After 60+ liters of burned fuel, my piston tops are all shiny and ALL my spark plugs are chocolate colored.
The engine idles at 500 and not a ''glitch'' from bottom to top rpm.
Choke: Dismantle the choke. Use a brass tube that point directly into the carb and give it a shot before start. My engine starts at the first flip EVERY time !
Props: If you are a scale buff you can use really big propellers. I have a three bladed 34'' solo prop on my fw190 ( see my gallery). To get enough forward speed, I had to set the pitch so the engine rpm was approx 3000. Even at this rpm, the engine pulled my 22kg bird with sufficent power. Drawback: if engine stops in the air, it is a serious drag.
Cooling: it is more important to cool the ignition unit than the engine. If this unit gets to warm, the engine slowly stops-
For what it's worth.
/Straightleg
Can you tell us what pitch you are running to get the RPM down to 3000?
Please visit often and add whenever you can.
I'll be looking for your answers,
Scott
#635
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Hello Hello82 ! :-)
I have no problem with the fan. The reason may be that we are "blessed" with not so warm air here in Norway. about pluss/minus 20 degree C. I had problem with the ignition unit,thoug,which was located directly behind the warm slip stream from one of the cylinders. When it got warm inside,the engine slowly died. I solved this by protecting it with some pieces of ply. After that, no problem
/Straightleg
I have no problem with the fan. The reason may be that we are "blessed" with not so warm air here in Norway. about pluss/minus 20 degree C. I had problem with the ignition unit,thoug,which was located directly behind the warm slip stream from one of the cylinders. When it got warm inside,the engine slowly died. I solved this by protecting it with some pieces of ply. After that, no problem
/Straightleg
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ORIGINAL: Scott Prossen
Welcome Straightleg! Your information is greatly appreciated here. Do you use a pump to get the low (500) RPM so smooth?
Can you tell us what pitch you are running to get the RPM down to 3000?
Please visit often and add whenever you can.
I'll be looking for your answers,
Scott
ORIGINAL: Straightleg
Hello radial lovers !
Great thread! I have read it from the start and will make my contribution to ''speculation and supposition'' :-) (quote from Stuart Mackay)
I have been using this engine(Moki 215) for four years and here are my experiences:
Fuel: use ready mixed(2%) fuel from ''Stihl''. It is fuel for the the german made chain saw. After 60+ liters of burned fuel, my piston tops are all shiny and ALL my spark plugs are chocolate colored.
The engine idles at 500 and not a ''glitch'' from bottom to top rpm.
Choke: Dismantle the choke. Use a brass tube that point directly into the carb and give it a shot before start. My engine starts at the first flip EVERY time !
Props: If you are a scale buff you can use really big propellers. I have a three bladed 34'' solo prop on my fw190 ( see my gallery). To get enough forward speed, I had to set the pitch so the engine rpm was approx 3000. Even at this rpm, the engine pulled my 22kg bird with sufficent power. Drawback: if engine stops in the air, it is a serious drag.
Cooling: it is more important to cool the ignition unit than the engine. If this unit gets to warm, the engine slowly stops-
For what it's worth.
/Straightleg
Hello radial lovers !
Great thread! I have read it from the start and will make my contribution to ''speculation and supposition'' :-) (quote from Stuart Mackay)
I have been using this engine(Moki 215) for four years and here are my experiences:
Fuel: use ready mixed(2%) fuel from ''Stihl''. It is fuel for the the german made chain saw. After 60+ liters of burned fuel, my piston tops are all shiny and ALL my spark plugs are chocolate colored.
The engine idles at 500 and not a ''glitch'' from bottom to top rpm.
Choke: Dismantle the choke. Use a brass tube that point directly into the carb and give it a shot before start. My engine starts at the first flip EVERY time !
Props: If you are a scale buff you can use really big propellers. I have a three bladed 34'' solo prop on my fw190 ( see my gallery). To get enough forward speed, I had to set the pitch so the engine rpm was approx 3000. Even at this rpm, the engine pulled my 22kg bird with sufficent power. Drawback: if engine stops in the air, it is a serious drag.
Cooling: it is more important to cool the ignition unit than the engine. If this unit gets to warm, the engine slowly stops-
For what it's worth.
/Straightleg
Can you tell us what pitch you are running to get the RPM down to 3000?
Please visit often and add whenever you can.
I'll be looking for your answers,
Scott
Hello Scott !
The main reason for this low rpm is my big prop. With an ordinary 32x18, it idles good at 6 to 700, but again, I think the good fuel is a key here.
No pump.
Regarding pitch on big props, it is hard to say on a solo. But I have a fixed pitch three blade from a german manufactorer ( he makes props after your specifications)
This is fw190 shaped (wide blades) prop 33x16. See pic. With this prop my Moki have 3000 rpm
/Straightleg
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ok guys
i really need advice before i spend £££££££££££££££££ anyway, ive been flying a ziroli hellcat for 2-3 years using a zenoha 62,it flys faultless and lands like a trainer never broke a prop in that time, ok so i have decide too get a moki 150 this saturday,but i want the model too be as scale as poss so this will mean a prop from solo, now apart from risking a ground strikeis there any reason a moki 15 will not perform well with a 28" 3 blade solo prop? thanks for your time.
regards and happy landings
i really need advice before i spend £££££££££££££££££ anyway, ive been flying a ziroli hellcat for 2-3 years using a zenoha 62,it flys faultless and lands like a trainer never broke a prop in that time, ok so i have decide too get a moki 150 this saturday,but i want the model too be as scale as poss so this will mean a prop from solo, now apart from risking a ground strikeis there any reason a moki 15 will not perform well with a 28" 3 blade solo prop? thanks for your time.
regards and happy landings
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ORIGINAL: wingspar
Straightleg, where did you get that prop and much did it cost???
My 113'' Fw-190 would love it.
Dave N
Straightleg, where did you get that prop and much did it cost???
My 113'' Fw-190 would love it.
Dave N
Here is the adress : www.seidel-props.de
e-mail: [email protected]
It is in german, but you can write or call him in english. He has three different prices: 60, 90 and 100% finished props. The prop on the picture is 60% ready and requires only a minimum of sanding before surface treatment. 100% ready are sanded,painted and balanced. He has a pricelist in german, under "Preisliste"
He makes any shape,pitch or dia. you want.
I can give you an example with my 33x16 three blade:
60% 200 EURO
90% 300 EURO
100% 333 EURO
+ shipping approx. 50 $ ( same price with more props)
To get $ multiply with 1.3
The best is to contact him directly
/Straightleg
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ORIGINAL: wayne1965
ok guys
i really need advice before i spend £££££££££££££££££ anyway, ive been flying a ziroli hellcat for 2-3 years using a zenoha 62,it flys faultless and lands like a trainer never broke a prop in that time, ok so i have decide too get a moki 150 this saturday,but i want the model too be as scale as poss so this will mean a prop from solo, now apart from risking a ground strikeis there any reason a moki 15 will not perform well with a 28'' 3 blade solo prop? thanks for your time.
regards and happy landings
ok guys
i really need advice before i spend £££££££££££££££££ anyway, ive been flying a ziroli hellcat for 2-3 years using a zenoha 62,it flys faultless and lands like a trainer never broke a prop in that time, ok so i have decide too get a moki 150 this saturday,but i want the model too be as scale as poss so this will mean a prop from solo, now apart from risking a ground strikeis there any reason a moki 15 will not perform well with a 28'' 3 blade solo prop? thanks for your time.
regards and happy landings
I do not know the 150, but with my experience on the 215, it should not be any problem, as long as you set the pitch right and accepts the power loss with a three blade and lower rpm.
/Straightleg
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
thanks for that straight leg
im a little new too this field of modeling i.e. radials and i just need as much help as i can get as i cant afford too balls it up with the money involved so any advice is more than welcome .
regards and happy landings
im a little new too this field of modeling i.e. radials and i just need as much help as i can get as i cant afford too balls it up with the money involved so any advice is more than welcome .
regards and happy landings
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
hi jeff
thanks for that ,ill go with the 26" solo then by all accounts they are so good looking props and i think with the moki 150 im going too get just about as scale as they come thanks again.
regards and happy landings
thanks for that ,ill go with the 26" solo then by all accounts they are so good looking props and i think with the moki 150 im going too get just about as scale as they come thanks again.
regards and happy landings
#645
My Feedback: (16)
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Well my Ba-ba-ba-bah-bahs are back. The whole flight including take off the engine hard misses. started over fresh, new fuel, re-tuned the engine. no help. changed the crank sensor because that has been the problem in the past, no luck. just to rule out heat on the ignition module i flew another flight with no cowl, no change. since top gun i cant get the "bump" with the choke on while walking the prop through. so we tried a 6.6 a-123(per mitch's advice). the bump came back! i was all exited, started the motor and and after the first run up all the missing came back. so i'm about to go into the coils hoping its a ground issue.[:@] why cant this thing give me just one day with no maitenence? At top gun I cleaned vaves after every flight while the other Moki owners sat around and enjoyed themselves. It sticks a valve on every third flight, well I flew it two flights last weekend and pulled it out of the trailer this weekend, guess what? stuck valve! the third flight would of been the charm as always. But it finally stuck a different valve this time. According to the people who sell these things it's me always doing something wrong. Wrong oil, too much oil, too rich, wrong battery, re-set the valves untill you wear out the threads and yada-yada-yada. They keep saying its you untill you fight it right out of warranty!
done with my rant, any ideas?
done with my rant, any ideas?
#646
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
what kind of pitch are you thinking you going to need to put in the prop to bring the RPM's down to the 4500 to 5500 range? with the 26 diameter and 150 cc's... im thinking its going to need 16 pitch, 14 for sure anyways possibly higher..... this is of course based only on my personal history with my 100cc er and a 24 inch diameter prop i was at 12 pitch at 6800 rpm's and the manufature said i should ajust it to 14 and check again 6200 is my target rpm for that engine (static) aerotech says the scale diameter for your plane is 29.5 inch diameter. could you go bigger diameter? I bet the engine will use it... tourqe monster....
#647
Thread Starter
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Wayne will need that 26" 3 blade SOLO PROP to be at about 14 - 15 pitch to be in the 5000 to 5400 rpm range. The 26 x 16 2 blade runs at 5300 to 5400 so it would be reasonable to expect 5000 to 5300 with the SOLO 3 blade at 14 -15 pitch. Let us know how you make out and what rpm's you do get. Would be good info for the rest of us! Good luck Wayne. A picture or two would be nice as well[sm=wink_smile.gif][sm=72_72.gif][sm=49_49.gif]
Jeff,
Have you tried a high impedence 4.8v battery like, say a 4200MA NiMh? What battery were you running at Top Gun? No pin holes on the gas or pump lines? Wild guesses only Jeff. Sorry you've had so much trouble with that engine. I ask around and haven't heard of anyone else out there with your kind of continual problems. Does "Murphy" live with you? Maybe we should introduce the "Lemon Law" to TBM???
Best of luck and keep us posted on your progress,
Scott
Jeff,
Have you tried a high impedence 4.8v battery like, say a 4200MA NiMh? What battery were you running at Top Gun? No pin holes on the gas or pump lines? Wild guesses only Jeff. Sorry you've had so much trouble with that engine. I ask around and haven't heard of anyone else out there with your kind of continual problems. Does "Murphy" live with you? Maybe we should introduce the "Lemon Law" to TBM???
Best of luck and keep us posted on your progress,
Scott
#648
My Feedback: (16)
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
scott i have a 4.8 4200 nimh. After it quit doing the "bump" with the choke on i started thinking about the fire being weak. Mitch had a weak fire problem and went to the higher voltage. that seems to be the case here, but why all of a sudden??? All that did was patch a bigger problem, maybe the module getting weak? Can my battery have a bad cell causing weak fire? although it load checks at well over 5 volts? can I have a weak fire problem thats causing bad combustion which in turn is causing my valve sticking problem? Too many what if's jeff
Just talked with mike at tbm, i'm gonna look into the coils, but as far as warranty it sounds like too bad so sad.
Just talked with mike at tbm, i'm gonna look into the coils, but as far as warranty it sounds like too bad so sad.
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Hi Jeff,
Have you pulled all the plugs to see how the burn is going?
I had a bit of an issue that was confusing on my 150 before TopGun. Ran like a watch with the Xoar 26-16 2 blade, but when i put on the 25-16 3 blade, it was enough of an increased load that the engine developed a miss that couldn't be tuned out. It was cyl #3. Seems it's a bit of a weak cylinder, that runs perfectly fine on the 2 blade, but not reliably with an increased load.. really seemed like a weak spark. That cylinder was much cooler than all the others. Ran the engine briefly with that plug wire removed from the cylinder and with a spare plug, couldn't see any missing spark, but I know that's not a reliable test.
Put the 26-16 back on and again runs like a watch.
Perhaps needs a few more hours of break in to really know the characteristics under differing loads.
Don
Have you pulled all the plugs to see how the burn is going?
I had a bit of an issue that was confusing on my 150 before TopGun. Ran like a watch with the Xoar 26-16 2 blade, but when i put on the 25-16 3 blade, it was enough of an increased load that the engine developed a miss that couldn't be tuned out. It was cyl #3. Seems it's a bit of a weak cylinder, that runs perfectly fine on the 2 blade, but not reliably with an increased load.. really seemed like a weak spark. That cylinder was much cooler than all the others. Ran the engine briefly with that plug wire removed from the cylinder and with a spare plug, couldn't see any missing spark, but I know that's not a reliable test.
Put the 26-16 back on and again runs like a watch.
Perhaps needs a few more hours of break in to really know the characteristics under differing loads.
Don