jeff naul

My Feedback: (16)

what knid of rpm are you getting with 26-16?

goneflyin2002

Jeff, 77,

Last time I tached it, I was getting 5500-5580 with the 26-16 and am burning 92-94 octane fuel.

Don

77chickenhawk

next time you want to try and fly with your 3 blade prop. try sonoco 110 leaded fuel. i have a good feeling you will not get the missing in the engine. just a thought

pump gas is junk for aircraft

Straightleg

Hello all missfires !

I do not understand why you dont listen to my advice and use "Stihl" ready mixed environmental gas, made for the german chain saw of the same name. Those who use it here in Norway, fly all the time whitout ANY missfire. There are three things that make this engine goes bad. That is bad fuel,spark plugs and too low amp on the battery. Forget about coils.

/Straightleg

butlern

My Feedback: (15)

Straightleg,

What type of Stihl oil are you using? I have long been using Stihl HP Ultra at 2% with excellent results (in my single 2-cycle gas engines).

**appears in the white containers at the bottom of this page**

http://www.stihlusa.com/lubricants/t...oil.html#ultra

You are using the same?

Noah

butlern

My Feedback: (15)

I should add (Scott P.) that I also have some of the Amsoil Sabre Pro at the ready.

I'm still just collecting information before I get on with the first run-ins.

Noah

Straightleg

Hello Noah !

I use the ready mixed factory fuel from Stihl called "MotoMix"(50:1). I suppose it contains Stihl superior oil. Pump gas contains a lot of "crap" that are left inside the engine.
The Motomix is a cleaned gas that leave the engine shiny inside. It smells good too !! When it comes to 2-cycle engines, I do not have that much experience, but the shop here that repairs chain saw engine, tells me that they can see at once if the engine is runned with high quality Stihl fuel or homemixed pump gas fuel.

regards

Straightleg

Scott Prossen

Hey Noah,

Can't wait to hear how much you like the new toy once you've run it up a bit. I know you'll want to get out to the field and do the maiden right away. Don't run the engine on the ground for much. My 250/Wildcat was run only once at home to get the throttle set properly and then off to the field for the maiden. I ran two high speed taxi tests and that was it. Airborne and wheels up right after that! The MOKI want lots of air over it. You can only get in the air. Good luck buddy...you're gonna love it!

As far as the AMSOIL goes. I preach what works for me. Have had no problems with the gas or product and I just use Reg. Unleaded gas and Amsoil SABER PRO mixed 50:1. Has been rock solid for me. My knowledge of petroleum and oils is very limited and that's why I simply state it works well for me and several other guys I know. I chose to use it because of a couple guys with extensive knowledge of the products and small engines convinced me to do so. And as such... no problems.

Let me know how it all works out,

Scott

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Scott. Could you tell me if the Stab on the Wildcat comes off and if so does it do so easily. I like the WC but I fear that it's a tad to large for me to move about in my townhouse.

Thank you

Scott Prossen

Hey BobH,

Sure does. One screw each side and slips off like a wing. One minute per side and you're all done! You'll love it. Anything else please feel free to email me at [email protected]

Thanks,

Scott

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Scott thank you. I'm debating the WC or the CompArf Corsair. Geotz from vogeslang told me to check with you..

butlern

My Feedback: (15)

Hi, Scott.

I understand where you're coming from, re: Amsoil Saber Pro. It's likely the route that I'll go since you guys in FL have all had positive experiences with this mixture.

My model is very nearly finished, but not quite. I still need to apply some dry-transfers and a few paint stencils before I can clear-coat the model, so I’m about 1-2 weeks away. The last thing I want to do is run the engine and sling oil all over the finish before I get it clear-coated!

Will post a report soon.

Regards,

Noah

Scott Prossen

150cc NIB up for sale on RCU!!! Check it out guys. My buddy Pete is going turbine and lost interest in the Radials[sm=cry_smile.gif]. His loss could be your gain. I personally know this guy and the engine. Maybe six months old and never been run. Only out of the box for measurements and comes with a tool kit too !! TBM has the sale records so the warranty will be good as well.

These are great engines and this is an opportunity for someone to save some serious bucks (maybe $400 or $500). That would be a steal for this one.

See ad here on RCU: http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=635300

Good luck on the "other" side Peter Miller!

Scott

jeff naul

My Feedback: (16)

Well I had a bad night. Decidided to start from ground up and go through my engine. Something in the past hit the hall sensor and now the same miss has returned. so I want to start at the cam and look to see what is going on. So the tear down begins, all was well until I got to the cam for the pulse generator. They peen each side of the set screw to ensure it doesnt back out, well they got a little too happy with the hammer and it ovaled the set screw. After my severe case of the red ass I punched a hole in my door and my buddy had to make me leave for a minute. During this time I mix a drink and settled in to watching some Frasier and Mike walks in with the crankshaft in hand. Well he didn't mark the crank before he pulled it from the cam. So my question is, Have any of you guys ever timed one of these? This is supposed to be fun![:@] thanks, Jeff

mick15

Jeff, no problem I’ll describe the 215 assuming the 150 and 250 to be the same.

This all applies to the # 1 cylinder, Number one piston has to be at exactly TDC there are a number of ways to achieve this:-

One way is to set the crank 12_15degrees of where you think TDC is, mark the prop driver and the camring cover. With a vernier gauge measure the distance from the spark plug seat to the piston crown, now rotate the crank over TDC until the piston crown is the same depth as the first measurement, mark the prop driver, now the mid distance between these two marks is exactly TDC.

The camring is now fitted with the dimple on the camring gear lined up with the 4mm bolt hole beneath the #1 cylinder, I am referring to the bolt hole for the camring cover.

To get it right you need to fit the planet gears in the following way:- Rotate each planet gear in a clockwise direction until they drop into mesh (you can do this a couple of times to check) this ensures that both gears are driving the camring the same.

As previously stated I use oil in my engines as I’m not keen on grease in a gearbox, up to you.

Hth m

jeff naul

My Feedback: (16)

Mick, do you guys consider the top cylinder to be number one or the cylinder that has the big rod that all the other rods connect to? thx, jeff

mick15

The Master rod is #1 and should be at the top.

m

jeff naul

My Feedback: (16)

either i numbered wrong or i am just remembering wrong. i'll look in a bit. thanks, jeff

Scott Prossen

Jeff,

If you get a chance a few pictures would be much appreciated. A bunch of us non-mechanical guys would love to see what the inside looks like. Only if you have time and are in a good mood though[sm=bananahead.gif][sm=cry_smile.gif][sm=48_48.gif]. Don't want you punching out another door or pitching the camera...not on my account!

Looking forward to seeing you at Macs next month[sm=teeth_smile.gif][sm=75_75.gif][sm=wink_smile.gif]

Scott

mogman

I've just taken delivery of my 400. Am I correct in assuming that #1 has the Moki badge? Are there any serial #'s? I would like to "green card" the engine serial # for the times I will cross the border to fly in the US. ( to avoid any hassles with customs)

Cheers, Dave.

mogman

Found the ser.#. Helps when you wear your glasses

jeff naul

My Feedback: (16)

Mick, I t.d.c. the number one cylinder. I pulled the head so I could eyeball it. next i marked the dimple on the face of the cam ring and aligned it with the bottom bolt in the center of the cylinder. Next i put in the planetary gears, they dropped right in with no movement of the cam necessary. obviously something is wrong because the pushrods arent going in without alot of adjustment. None of that should have changed. the number two cylinder gave the same result. The Intake valves are open at tdc. i knew when I put in the cam that it didnt look right because the lobes are begining to push the lifter at t.d.c.

jeff naul

My Feedback: (16)

something else i ran across. i had one push rod .020 shorter than the average length rod. thats a power loss unless they intend on that one to be on a specific cylinder for a certain reason. will have to call and find out.

mick15

Hi Jeff, correct me if I’m wrong but that is a 150? I did say at the beginning of my post my info is regarding the 215 and assume the 150 and 250 to be the same.

There is another way to time a four stroke and that is to set #1 piston at TDC then insert the lifters and rotate the camring until the lifters are “rocking” meaning one is going up and other is going down, when they are at exactly the same height fit the planet gears as previously instructed.

The length of the pushrods is unimportant these discrepancies can be adjusted out.

Have fun m

jeff naul

My Feedback: (16)

Mick it is a 150. I will call and see what troy built says. thanks, I'll post what they say. Jeff