wildbills21

I run the 215 in a BUSA 1/3 scale stearman, I have read a number of starting procedures for tje MOKI engine. With 2 prople present I use an electric starter but sometimes I end up flying alone. What is the best way to start this engine by hand. I have tried and have not been too successful. I can usually get it started by hand when its warm but have never got it to fire by hand when its cold.

Thanks,
Wild Bill

mogman

I'm not sure about the 215, but my 400 is dead easy to hand start. choke closed, flip 'till it pops, choke off and usually fires after about 5-6 flips. The 400 is not on a plane yet, but I have run it up on a test stand...AWESOME!!!!!!

Scott Prossen

Yep Bill, Dave (Mogman) is correct. The only thing I will add is that the throttle is set to "full open" while the choke is on. Then flip till it pops. Then open choke and set throttle to one or two clicks of idle and flip till it starts. Usually 2 to 5 flips after a choke pop. Remember to be safe and to give it a robust flip when you do.

You should get it then.

Good luck to you and keep us posted.



Dave, you must be about getting on the road soon. I expect to see you on set up day Wednesday. That 80 hour ride needs to get started !!! Call me when you get close.

Scott

mogman

Scott, already on the road. In Spokane tonight. See you there.

MarkShapiro

My Feedback: (52)

Need Help, guys. I tried test flying the new bearcat today with the 250. Without the cowl on, engine runs perfectly but is warm as tested immediately after shutting down the engine. My heat gun showed temps in the 245 area for the upper cylinders and a little cooler below. When I put the baffled cowl on, the temps drop to 190! That is good, buy then the engine dies at half throttle. I believe there is enough venting at the bottom of the cowl for hot air to escape. What gives??

Straightleg

if the the ignition module is inside the cowl and close to the engine , it can get to hot and will not accept full throttle. if this is the case and the problem is not corrected, the module will be destroyed after a while. if the module is behind the firewall, then I can not help you !! :-).

/straightleg

MarkShapiro

My Feedback: (52)

Module is inside the fuselage. Cool to the touch.

koenvlieg

please picture from the engine in the motor cowl, than I will give you my opinion

fg

Koen

isaacb

Hi there,
Can I use a synthetic oil KLOTZ KL200?
What ratio of oil and fuel needed to prevent Moki 215?

Thank you,

Isaac

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Mark, Don't know if you've sorted your engine yet but I'd try removing the baffles from the cowl and see what happens. I'm thinking that the baffles may be holding back air from going through the cowl and out the hot air opening. You may have to open up the hot air exit also ( if baffle removal doesn't solve the problem). Mitch

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Hello Moki Owners,

I just been blessed with my 1st Moki Radial 250 cc. I'm in the process of reading through this very informative thread. My choice of an airframe will come this December.
I will be running the engine with the APS PowerFuel 380. But first to run the engine on the bench. The engine is mounted on a test stand and ready to be started.

My question is of which oil. In all my other 2C engines I've been running the well known Bel-Ray H1R fully synthetic with excellant results. But now I hear that this "brand" has been recently reformulated and is causing valve sticking in the Moki Radials.

Please, which oil to use for break-in. (Synthetic or non) Which oil after break-in. (Experience only)
And most important, please let me know your experience with 2T oils that should be avoided due to causing valves to stick.

Thanks - Jaketab

NCIS

What are your opinions of the Moki 400 vs the other 14 cylinder 400cc radial? I can't think who makes it though. Do any of you know?Just curious. I am going to put one of them in my Monster Corsair. I am looking forward to your feedback. Here they are please pick for me. Plus what is the cost difference?

Barry

fifou313

Hello
I have buy a 250 MOki but for the moment I run a 3 blades Biela 32*14. The result is goo but I would like to fly with a Solo prop 4 blades.
But anyone can tell me what setup do I need on the soloprop? What pitch? What size of prop?
Thanks a lot.
Best regards.
Philippe

Scott Prossen

Philippe,

You can just reduce the pitch or the diameter by 1 or 2 and go to four blade. For instance, a 32 x 12 x 4 blade or a 30 x 14 x 4 blade would be a great place to start. Also, don't be afraid to speak with Wayne at SOLO PROPS and get his input. I would assume he deals with this stuff every day. I run a 3 blade SOLO PROP on a 250 currently set at 30 x 17.5 x 3 blade and love it.

Good luck and keep us posted on your success!

Scott

77chickenhawk

Sedel is the company who makes the 400 14 cylinder

fifou313

thanks a lot.
I will contact Solopro to see it.
Regards.

Straightleg

Hello Barry!
The 14 cylinder is actually a 500cc. Two 250's together. I have a friend that have both. I can ask him if you want his opinion.
Here is the web site.
http://www.seidel-triebwerke.de/englisch/englisch.html

It is a german company

/Straightleg

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Hello,

OK, I went with Yamalube 2R. Mixing it at 3.4 oz to 1 gallon to reach a mix of 37.65 to 1 - or 2.66%.
Hope this is the right choice for breaken in the 250.
This first timer Moki owner is about to start it up at 5 PM this evening.
Speak now before I crash and burn.

Thanks - Jaketab

Scott Prossen

Jaketab,
Sorry I missed your earlier email. You should be okay with what you got. The engines are now shipping with 50:1 instructions. The Europeans have been using it for years! I have several MOKIs and run 50:1 Amsoil (Saber or Dominator) mixed with C-2 Metalon (available at B&B Specialties, Inc.) in all of them right out of the boxes with no regrets. More importantly, no problems and they all run beautifully. Good luck to you and keep us posted.

Scott

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Scott,

I'm in the need for reassurance stage. Conflict is whether to run full synthetic from day one or break in with non-systhetic.
I've been cautioned about using an oil that may cause valves to stick.
Castrol 2S TT has been recommended by Gotz Vogelsang.

Thanks - Jaketab

Scott Prossen

Metalon C-2 is an additive that helps with things like seating the rings and conditioning the bore/piston. It's what I do..not gospel but it works great for me. Gotz certainly has the inside track on info as he is the distributor. He also flys these engines and visits the mfg. on a somewhat annual basis. Do what makes you comfortable and I'm sure it will all work out.

Scott

NCIS

What does the 700 cc cost? Does anybody know? That would fill my cowl. Plus more power than the 14 cyl. and bigger scale prop for scale appearence. Less to go wrong. I am going to be running a 4 blade prop on it. Would this be an extreme overkill for a 80 lb Warbird?

Barry

Barry

Scott Prossen

What does the 700 cc cost? Does anybody know? That would fill my cowl. Plus more power than the 14 cyl. and bigger scale prop for scale appearence. Less to go wrong. I am going to be running a 4 blade prop on it. Would this be an extreme overkill for a 80 lb Warbird?

Barry



Barry,
With all due respect, this thread is for "MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenance" issues. I believe you have numerous threads going on your builds and this question would be better suited for one of them. We/I am trying my best to keep this thread on target so as to aid people searching for pertinent subject matter. The less "off subject" content the easier it is to search this site for MOKI info.

Thanks for your understanding and good luck with your build(s).

Scott

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Observations from 1st start up of a Moki 250

Started so easy it suprised me. This thing has torqe! So much that it was twisting a well braced 3/4 ply mount to left when accelerating. Might have had something to do with the 32x19 prop. I can see having to hold hard right rudder on take off. It jumps from 1000 to 4230 rpm in a fraction second.

Question: How many degrees to offset a 250 Moki when mounted on a plane???

I ran the engine 4 times about 4-5 minutes each. Varied the load. Engine was run without the APS pump. Leaned the low needle about 1/4 turn from 1-1/4 to 1. Idle picked up noticably. I only had an IR temp gun to check the temps. There was a wide range to temps. The #3 (clockwise from rear) was consistantly much lower then all the rest. The #4 seem to be the hottest. Kept temps under 220F. The engine was very easy on gas. Used only about 16 oz. The temps stayed under 200F when not going past 3000 rpm. At full throttle the temps jumped very quickly.
Lots of oil residue. Used 90 octane methanol free mixed with Yamalube at 35 to 1. Probabally need to lean oil ratio.

Question: How much run time is needed to seat the rings and reduce the oily exhaust residue???

Session closed due to darkness,

Jaketab.

Der Goetz

My Feedback: (9)

It's basically what Scott says.

Since we have different oil blends over here than they have in Europe it has been quite a journey for the Moki users over here to find the right oil.
We use the aforementioned Castrol RS 2T and cannot recommend any other brand or blend for one reason only: we had great results with the RS 2T and did not want to risk inferior results when trying out other blends and brands, as well.
Bottom line: if it works for the Moki Veterans here on the forum it will work for you.
Word of warning: stay away from Bell-Ray, they changed their blend and it has become a real valve killer.

BTW, Cheers, Scott