Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the reply Der Goetz,

Attached is the instruction manual download of the Emcotec PowerFuel 380. Thought readers may want to see this.

Jaketab

NCIS

NO PROBLEM SCOTT, SORRY TO STEP ON YOUR TOES!!!!!

Barry

germrb

My Feedback: (3)

Jaketab,

Everyone has their favorite oil brand and its difficult to evaluate all of them. My personal experience has been with Yamalube 2R. It is totally non-synthetic and will allow rings to seat more quickly. I breakin all my engines (3W, BME, Brison, DA, Moki radials) at 32:1 for the first five gallons, then switch to high grade synthentic (Amsoil, Klotz, etc) at 50:1 with 100L aviation fuel (100 octane, low lead).

There is one problem with the Moki radial and that is the #3 cylinder. With 32:1 oil mixture it is difficult to keep the #3 cylinder from droping out becasue of the oil concentration and the low operating temperature. You may need to pull the #3 plug occasionally to keep it from fouling. Once you get to 50:1 the problem will go away.

My only caution is be sure to keep track of the cylinder head temperatures. Its very important that you don't overheat the engine or the ignition module.

Best of luck,

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Bob,

Thanks for the tip. I'm using Yamalube for break-in. I've been monitoring the temps with an IR gun. As long as I stay at mid-range rpm, the temps remain under 200 F. The engine is on a stand with no obstruction to air moving over cylinders.

Top rpm is 4230 with a 32 x 19 SEP prop.

Yes, #3 has been consistantly lower, but during the last run this evening, the temp came up some.

Would it hurt or help if I rotated the engine while on the stand so that the #3 cylinder is in a more upright position????
In theory, that may bring it's temp up and help seat it a little faster?????

Thanks - Jaketab

germrb

My Feedback: (3)

Jaketab,

Sounds like you have it well under control. If the #3 cylinder isn't droping out, I would'nt worry about turning the engine upside down. I run a 32 X18 Biela at 4300' altitude and have a top end about 4500 rpm.

Enjoy,

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Hello,

PowerFuel 380 Pump Question.

Not certain I understand the instructions properly.
When running a fuel pump on a Moki Radial, does anyone use a "T" on the pump/engine feed line and return the unused fuel back to the tank fill line???
I've attached a crude diagram to help explain the set up. The advantage would be a self-priming pump in case you run out of fuel.
The disadvantage may be not enough fuel going to the engine or - the pump constantly returning fuel back into the tank???

Is this correct or should I plumb without a return to the filler line??????

Thanks - Jaketab

JPate147

Jaketab,

The 'T' is not required. The fuel goes from the tank to the "inlet" side of the pump and then directly out to the carburetor. I added another clunk and tube from my tank to act as a drain line when I finsih flying so I will not run the pump dry when I drain the tank.

germrb

My Feedback: (3)

Jaketab,

JPate147 is correct. The T is not required. Once the fuel leaves the tank, it does not return and the tank is not pressurized. The fuel circulates around the short cross over check valve, which maintains a steady fuel pressure at the carb.

The idea of a second clunk pickup is excellent. If the pump is run dry it will not last very long. We're talking seconds, not minutes.

JPate147

Hi Guys, I am running a SEP 28 X 18 three blade on a Moki 250 on Amsoil @ 50:1. Before I added the APS fuel pump, I was seeing 4440 rpm on the ground. I added the fuel pump to head off any fuel/maintenance issues with the pressure tube before the first flight, and without adjusting the needles, the rpm's went up to 4680 on the ground. On the maiden flight, the engine performed great in the air - smooth running and powerful. The issues about that flight was the engine would not throttle back to idle for landing, and the cylinder temps seemed high (230). Today I pulled the cowl and readjusted the needles (I actually had to richen the High needle valve) and lowered the rpm's back down to 4450. During the flight the engine had a distinct miss, and did not seem to have the power it had on the maiden flight. I flew at about 1/2 throttle and the miss got worse when I went to full power. I was under the impression that I would have to 'lean' the H needle after adding the pump. Any ideas? Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks in advance,

Jerry

Scott Prossen

Does it miss on the ground or only when moving forward? What battery system and voltage are you running?

Scott

JPate147

Hi Scott,

There was no miss on the ground. I am running a 5,000 mah NiMH 5 cell with a regulator set at 5.75v.

Scott Prossen

Same deal here with the same problem here. Fixed it by setting the voltage to 5.1v. Try it....I bet the house you'll have it fixed!!!

Scott

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Running a 7.4V, 5200 mAh Li-Ion regulated to 5.2V. Pump shares the battery at 5.2V.
Still running in on ground with no issues except a #3 cylinder miss during warm up.

Jaketab

wildbills21

I am going to put the pump on a 215, have a 5000 mah bat, what kind of voltage regulator should I use. Is one better thsn the other

Scott Prossen

Wild Bill,

This is the one several of us are using and it is adjustable. We use the 8A version. http://flightpowerbatteries.com/fpwm0290.html
Does the trick for us and have not heard of any problems with them.

Scott

JPate147

Thanks for the help and suggestions - I'll give it a try and let you know how it works

koenvlieg

I use the emcotec remote control rv. Battery has 2500mah, more than enough for three flights

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Hello - Break-in update for Moki 250,

About to finish the first gallon of Yamalube at 32/1 in the new Moki 250.
I checked the valve adjustments and noticed that the #4 exhaust valve spring action was somewhat sluggish when depressed and released.
Did not have the same springy action feel as the other 9 valves. Was slightly harder to depress and slower to return.
Is this a symptom of a stuck valve???????????

Removed plugs and all were on the verge of fouling. I used WD-40 on the sluggish valve. Seems to be moving better.
Will switch to Castrol Power RS TTS synthetic oil after seeing the plugs on Yamalube.

Jaketab

TheRickster

My Feedback: (12)

I have almost a gallon of Stihl HP Ultra through mine still on the run stand and so far the plugs are looking good dark tan at 35:1 mix..

Rick

JPate147

Hi Guys,

On my last flight, the engine was missing (250cc) and I got some advice to reduce the voltage to 5.1 on my regulator. I did this and today, after changing the voltage and installing all new plugs, the 7 o'clock cylinder (viewed from the front) is not firing. The miss is very pronounced. Any ideas out there?

I apologize if this has already been covered elsewhere, but the thread is too long to read in it's entirety.

TheRickster

My Feedback: (12)

Pull the #3 out and see if it is fouled.. IF it is black and wet that one is your issue.. Spray some carb cleaner into the lid of the can and put the plug in it and let it soak for a bit.. Take it out and spray the strap and porcelain down . Be sure ther is no carbon growth between the tip and the strap.. IT should be good to go now, I would swap it for #1 so that you start with a fairly clean one in the #3 hole..

Rick

Aircraft Modelers Research Inc

My Feedback: (2)

Hello everyone, we are near to test flight the Air Tractor 401-B 22%

JPate147

Thanks for the tip, but which cylinder are you refering to as number 3?

Scott Prossen

What did the 7 o'clock plug look like? Was it getting any fuel at all? Any chance the plug is bad? Can you test and see if that cylinder & plug is firing? Somewhere in there is your answer. I have heard of the timing sensor/pick up being defective as well as an occasional coil being bad. Very rare indeed but it can happen.

Scott

JPate147

Hi Scott,

The plug was wet and the only sign of firing was a small amount of carbon on the plug strap (cathode). The inner portion was pristine. The plugs are brand new, but I can swithch a couple if you think it might be defective?