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MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Old 11-29-2010, 08:45 AM
  #1051  
Der Goetz
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Dear Jeff,

Please call at 919-533-6275. I already talked to the guys at Moki about your problem.

And, we are experiencing problems with our answering machine, please do not leave a message, chances are we will not be getting to hear it.


Best regards,
Götz
Old 11-29-2010, 09:36 AM
  #1052  
rcwarbirdbuilder
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Jeff, sure would like to hear how Moki well resolve your issues.
Old 12-01-2010, 06:14 PM
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

The Gee bee is not my cup of tea, but Ihave two of their Warbirds, and Iam searching for others who have experience with Easy Tiger airplanes, so I found this thread. Surprised you do not hear more, Iam really happy with my planes and am looking to buy another.
Old 12-01-2010, 06:15 PM
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence


ORIGINAL: Hinckley Bill

Picked up this "unique" Gee Bee fantasy airplane and will install a Moki 250 in it ....... what do you think?
Old 12-08-2010, 08:31 AM
  #1055  
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

IMPORTANT Update considering the use of an external fuel pump:

We have heard from customers both in Europe and there in the US that there might be issues with plugging both ends of the tube which runs from the Moki's airpump in the front to the carburetor in the back.

We adjusted our recommendations and they are now as follows:

"Cut the air line back about 1/2" from the carb. Plug the stub going into the carb with a small piece of music wire. Leave the long piece going into the air pump open. They will still have the problems of grease leaking out of the air pump air bleed hole and possibly down the air line but they can clean this periodically and this is the safest modus of operation."

Best regards,

Götz
Old 12-08-2010, 06:19 PM
  #1056  
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence


ORIGINAL: Fly2XS

Gentlemen,
I dearly love the sound and look of the Moki 250 on the CompARF F4U Corsair and I'd love to start a project myself.

Last week at the Warbirds over the Midwest meet in Fond Du Lac, Wisconsin a friend had some difficulty with his engine and it became available as a rebuild project.
Look at the enclosed pictures and advise as to what you feel I should offer for this engine.
Thanks!
Is this damaged MOKI still on the market? Never heard anymore about it on the thread.
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Old 12-09-2010, 03:13 AM
  #1057  
Scott Prossen
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

I thought the owner had decided to keep it for parts. Not positive but that's what I recall reading.
Old 12-09-2010, 03:04 PM
  #1058  
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Thanks Scott for the thread. Read all 43 pages and learned a lot. Thought I might have had a possible round motor project out of that one.
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Old 12-09-2010, 03:17 PM
  #1059  
Scott Prossen
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

That makes me smile! Love it when a bunch of guys share thoughts and ideas within the hobby and someone else can actually benefit from it. I know it's helped me a boatload.

Merry Christmas and thanks for joining the fray,

Scott
Old 12-09-2010, 06:22 PM
  #1060  
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Noah,

Finished the thread and was wondering how your MOKI round motor situation was progressing.
Old 12-10-2010, 05:27 AM
  #1061  
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

I ended up sending my engine to TBM for service... it took a while, but they got it running well. They suggested that the motor left the factory improperly timed. That sounds unlikely to me, but that was their final verdict. Anyway, they re-timed the motor, got cylinder no. 3 to start firing properly, and they send the motor back to me.

The motor was returned to me a few weeks ago. I ran it. Cylinder no. 3 was FINALLY firing and the motor was making appropriate rpm for the 26x16 prop (~5300-5400). She sounded really good! Since that time I have run the motor 4 times, and each time it started easily and ran strong. Cylinder no. 3 is still running about 40 degrees F cooler than the other 4 cylinders, but it's participating, at least. Still might try a turbulator (just to get a little better fuel/air distribution, even out those temperatures), even though the designer himself suggests that it might not function well on my 150.... but that will likely not be until spring.

Unfortunately, by the time I got the motor the weather had turned in Iowa, so I have not yet put any additional flights on my Avenger. That aside, I'm confident that everything is set for a long and happy season of flying the 150 next year.

Noah
Old 12-10-2010, 06:10 AM
  #1062  
Maxam
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Yeah Noah!!!!!From Tom Maxam and (speaking for him) Jim Fassino! Noah I got a moki 215.....eeeek. Must bring to Peoria.
Old 12-10-2010, 06:13 AM
  #1063  
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Right on, Tom!

Looking forward to the spring weather and getting together with you guys again in Peoria!

What airframe have you selected for your 215?
Old 12-10-2010, 06:51 AM
  #1064  
Maxam
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Well Noah I will pick up the 215 in California in Crescent city so I will get to see the tallest of the redwoods! I will select a very big airplane (Ha). Seidel 7-70 ina 91 inch corsair and the seidel 9-90 in a robin hood 99. I will buy a turbulator from Vogelsang Aeroscale for the 215. I bet you feel much better after all your tribulations. -Tom BTW your Moki 150 is the earlier verson where the turbulator can be used.
Old 12-10-2010, 08:29 AM
  #1065  
Der Goetz
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

That is correct, the S150 Turbulators are for pre-November 2009 S150s.

Hey Noah, I am very glad everything worked out for you!
Old 12-10-2010, 12:37 PM
  #1066  
Scott Prossen
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

So cool. Happy endings all around!!!
Old 12-10-2010, 02:18 PM
  #1067  
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Great Noah,

I would like to have a 150 in the future for my AD-5 or a Z-Hellcat. Heck, I wonder if it would be suited for my 100" Stearman. Any input from anyone on this would be greatly appreciated. The photo is the plane with my RC friend whom helped me fabric it while in Oklahoma from Hawaii. I am always beside myself about the dedication of the friends we make in this hobby. This thread is a perfect example of this. Thanks Scott for starting and managing it. Scott, a friend of mine from Top Gun said hello.
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:03 PM
  #1068  
Scott Prossen
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

From the looks of that model, I think the Moki 150 might just be the ticket. Sure would be good sounding and would fly it beautifully!

Who is the Top Gun friend? Whomever it is, I'm already looking forward to TG2011. I plan to fly my Wildcat, see all my buddies and have one heck of a good time once again.

Scott
Old 12-10-2010, 10:22 PM
  #1069  
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Scott,

Bill Holland is who sends his greetings. He is close to starting his MOKI 250 on his CompArf F4U. This will be my first real hands on with the MOKI round motor. Ever since Bill showed that powerplant to me I wanted to get my hands on one. With inspection, maintenance and overhaul time on P&W 985's and 1340's, it will be nice to spend time on RC round motors. Bill with his MOKI 250 in front of the Oklahoma Museum of Flying's AD-5 Skyraider.
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Old 12-11-2010, 04:33 AM
  #1070  
Scott Prossen
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Oh yes, tell BH I say hello as well.

The MOKI will be a thing of joy for you then. This is nothing like those big round mamouths you worked on but these sure are fun. For me, someone with very limited mechanical experience, the engine is a fun experience to operate and maintain. This thread has taught me more than I could of imagined. I'm so thankful for it and for the others it has helped or encouraged.

Hope you enjoy your MOKI and keep us posted on your progress,

Scott
Old 12-11-2010, 07:02 AM
  #1071  
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Scott,
The information here is a plus for anyone looking into buying a MOKI, or who already has one. It gave me a working knowledge of the engine and removed some concerns circulating about the MOKI. I agree, the only real comparison between these engines and their full scale counterparts are the appearance. However, when I read the reports of oil leaking, grease slinging, and torque producing monsters, I said that is truly a round motor and I want one too.
Old 12-11-2010, 01:07 PM
  #1072  
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Gotz and any other experts out there can you help me out on what size gas tank is needed for the MOKI 400??? I like to fly for up to 15 minutes 1/3 to 2/3 throttle and have a 5 minute reserve. So what is the consumption rate of fuel of this beast??? Any help would be appreciated

Scott
Old 12-11-2010, 03:37 PM
  #1073  
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Hey Scott, throw a couple milk jugs in that sucker.. you'll be fine..

ANDTHEYWILLFIT!!

Old 12-16-2010, 07:27 PM
  #1074  
Loop
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Scott,

I have a couple of questions regarding your A123/ignition battery setup but first I would like to thank you for starting this remarkable thread. I just finished reading it from start to finish and am amazed at the amount of knowledge that has been posted by you and others. I havn't flown my Balsa USA Stearman in 2 or 3 years but now that I've found this wonderful information source I feel better about firing it up again.
I'm thinking of using A123's for ignition and fuel pump as you have. Did you use a single A123 (2300mAh) for ignition or two combined (5600 mAh). Also, is your fuel pump wired to the same ignition battery or does it have it's own battery?

Thanks in advance.
Bill
Old 12-16-2010, 08:43 PM
  #1075  
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

MOKI 150, 215, 250, 400
Information Page

This documents information was taken from pages 1 through 42 of this MOKI Radial thread. The information is broken down into separate categories based on reading of the thread by one person with interest. This information is made up of combined views and experiences from MOKI operators. It is advisable to read this thread in it’s entirety to gleam other information you will find of interest.


1. Which MOKI is Right for You?

a. The 150 will fly a 35 - 50ish lbs bird. The 215, 45 to 55 lbs. 250....maybe somewhere in the 50 to 70lbs bird. In general terms I think that's close. Depends on how you want to fly them and what type of airframe. Seen Corsairs, Hellcats, Wildcats, FW190's, La-7's and 9's, Yak 11's, T6's and so on. Those are the fly fast and mean types. Then there's the Stearmans, Wacos, Buckers, Nieports and so on. They can fly so realistic with that radial just chugging along...it's a beautiful thing!!

b. The 1/3 to 40% Warbird Bi-Planes work great too. Usually they run a 215 to 250 in them because they need the mass up front and to swing a scale size prop. Rarely fly at more than 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. There are lots to pick from out there
Good luck with your choice of project. Let us know what you pick.

2. Ignition Information:

a. Regulate the output voltage to 5.5volts

b. Moki 215 ignition running straight through at 6.6 volts. I've since found that I was getting some engine misses at high RPMs with that set up so I installed a Castle Creations BEC/Regulator (10Amp unit) set at 5.1 volts and the ignition seems very happy now.

c. Voltage Regulators: This is the one several of us are using and it is adjustable. We use the 8A version. http://flightpowerbatteries.com/fpwm0290.html
Does the trick for us and have not heard of any problems with them.

d. Some say there is a rev limiter built into the ignition that won't allow you to damage the engine.

e. Two guys in total mentioned that they got a lot of spitting and missing on the extended runs at high RPM. Upon where they went back to 4.8v but higher MA rating (3000+) and all was better. I run 4.8 4200MA (NiMh) packs and have never had an issue.





3. Fuel Pump: “Engine Driven”

a. The piston air pump is fitted to the front case housing

b. Newer engines (not the 400) have larger ribbed pump housing with festo fitting that screw into the gear case. On older series engines two cap screws hold on the housing.

c. Keep the pump housing/piston assembly clean, note that it requires NO lube on reassembly as the piston has a wide Teflon ring and gets the little lube necessary from the gear case.

d. The pump pulsing the carb diaphragm will draw fuel and supply good fuel pressure with the tank up to 12 inches behind the carb; it will also work with the tank further away with aircraft that only do light aerobatics. For hardcore aeros on 40 to 60% aircraft typically using the 250 and 400 engines with the fuel tank on the C/G, and it will often be upwards of two feet from the carb. Here the pump will struggle to draw enough fuel especially in high alpha flight and during prop hanging. The answer here is to disconnect the festo pulse tube from the carb and fit an electric fuel pump between the tank and carb that can supply a constant 0.3 Bar pressure. (See #5, Fuel Pump: “Electric”)

4. Pulse Tube: “Engine Fuel Pump”

a. Pulse Tube Cleaning: clear tube should be cleaned as it provides the fuel pressure to the carb. It has been stated that even a 30% clog can have negative effects on the fuel pressure. Just push in on the blue ring portion of the Festo fitting gently and while doing so pull the tube out. Do the same on the other end and then clean out the tube. I take a tiny piece of paper towel and ball it up then push it through the line several times with small diameter wire. Continue until the paper towel comes out clean. Then replace the tube by just inserting the ends back into the fittings. Slight pressure will allow the tube to fit right into the Festo. To check it, just give the tube a slight tug to see if the Festo has gripped onto it. If so, then you are done. Make sure to check everything else when you have the cowl removed and enjoy many more hours of that beautiful 5 cylinder sound!






5. Fuel Pump: “Electric”

a. I use a Flightworks 100 pump modified for petrol by the factory and driven from a small speed controller. The s/c can be driven from the throttle channel or from a mixed channel which enables in flight mixture control.
The pump delivers fuel through a 4mm tube which has a 3mm "T" back to the tank to maintain a low delivery pressure. This system does away with the less than 100% reliable pulse generator.

b. Let’s not forget the additional added benefit of the APS pump: no more keeping track of the grease and vapor fuel into the clear tube from the crank case to the carb. A huge benefit, in my opinion. Just ordered mine for the new 250 from Gotz earlier this week. Waiting now for delivery. Be careful to remember to close off the Festo fitting hole going into the carb so not to ingest any dust/dirt that would foul the carb. What some guys do is tape it closed and still others leave a small piece tube in the Festo and plug it with a small screw!!

c. Update By Der Goetz
We adjusted our recommendations and they are now as follows: "Cut the air line back about 1/2" from the carb. Plug the stub going into the carb with a small piece of music wire. Leave the long piece going into the air pump open. They will still have the problems of grease leaking out of the air pump air bleed hole and possibly down the air line but they can clean this periodically and this is the safest modus of operation."

d. Can I order the fuel pump "ready to drop in", and do I add the speed controller. Where do I go to buy one ready for petrol that will work on my MOKI 150? Doesn't the Walbro carb lock out fuel without the air pulses from some source - i.e., do I need to remove or disable the pump on the carb?

e. As previously stated, I use a Flightworks 100 pump modified for petroleum by the factory. There are a number of cheap brushed type speed controllers available in your country. As to the carb, the pump is ineffective as the electric pump forces fuel past the diaphragm valves. The diaphragm which is operating, is the regulator which operates the needle valve, this diaphragm is actuated by negative crankcase pressures.

f. What fuel pump are you guy's using?

g. I have been using the “Flightworks 100” modified for petrol by the factory. The pump is driven from a brushed type speed controller via a mixed channel to the throttle; this allows in-flight mixture control should you desire. The pump feeds the carb through a 4mm pipe with a 3mm loop back to the tank to maintain a moderate pressure (2 to 3 psi).

h. Goetz Vogelsang from Vogelsang Aeroscale writing: Now, this APS electric fuel pump represents a way of eliminating this possible cause of malfunction and furthermore eliminates the need of having to check that Festo tube for grease or other forms of contamination every few flights in order to avoid malfunctions. The fuel-pump is maintenance-free and very durable with the main part of the fuel-pump being a high quality and reliable gear pump. It can be run off your ignition pack, which needs to be increased by around 1000mAh. Once you hit the switch you start both the ignition and the pump at the same time, on the same switch or channel.






6. Carburetor Adjustments: “Idle Setting, High Setting, & Throttle Transition”

a. Good tip is to set your idle trim so that the flight idle is between 1000 to 1100rpm, this way the engine is turning fast enough at idle to help prevent plug oiling.

b. Carb needle adjustments: Tiny steps as 1/8th of a turn can often be too much.

c. The basic carb settings are H needle 1.75 turns out and L needle 1.25 turns out. If running rich, run the engine at 1000rpm and lean out the (L) needle until the engine starts to cut. Now open it 1/8th of a turn, check the idle, mid range transition and full throttle and it should be good to go.

d. Sensitive throttle to about 2/3's and from there to wide open there's very little difference. Use mechanical or programmed exponential to alleviate this symptom.

7. Valve “Intake & Exhaust”

a. Valve clearance with the engine cold is 0.05mm to 0.08mm and the plug gap is 0.3mm to 0.4mm.

b. After every flying session clean and lightly oil the rockers, push rod ends and valve stem, or if you prefer a good squirt with WD40 will clean and lube them for you. The valve stem under the spring is important as without a regular lube carbon build up on the valve stem could eventually cause the valve to stick resulting in the possible loss of a pushrod.

c. Valve clearance should be set at .005" - .007"? Measured when the piston is at top dead center.

d. Valve Cleaning Tips: RCS/TBM (Mike Dooley) says to clean with carb/break cleaner to remove the carbon build up and then blow it out/off with a high pressure air. (Hold the valves open by depressing the spring at the valve stem tip and spray the cleaner between the push rod and rocker arm. Let it sit and do its work, then blow dry with compressed air.

e. I discovered if I spray lithium grease spray (as suggested by someone on this thread) just under the rocker pivot at the front of the engine and direct the spray straight back the lubricant would directly hit the spot where the valve stem comes out the valve guide. The gap under the rocker pivot is about 1/16th inch but is enough to get the lubricant in place. This lubricant tended to stay pretty clean too. Please keep us posted and be careful! These engines are powerful.

8. Adjustments & Maintenance:

a. .014 Plug Gap

b. Check all external nuts/bolts especially the exhaust collector ring gland nuts as they take ages to bed in due to the Teflon seal.
c. At the rear of the housing below the air tube is an air bleed hole which for approx the first ten hours will extrude excess grease from the front gear case. This cam ring/gear case assembly is sealed off from the rest of the engine and therefore receives no fuel/oil lubrication, hence it is factory lubed with molybdenum grease that is good for 100+ hours.

d. Use "Permatex" RTV High Temp Silicone on the exhaust ring nuts to keep tight.

e. Latest "tech" update from Norway: To reduce the oil spill from the lubrication of the rocker arms, I have done some research. The result is to use oil for a chain on a chain saw. It has a sticky consistence, which means it stays where it should be, inside the rocker arm bearing. Use a coarse needle, and apply just a tiny drop on each rocker. With this oil I have approx. 15 flights, and the cowl is still clean inside. The cylinder tops are also much cleaner.

f. The pulse generator housing has a small pinhole on the backside to allow for small amounts of lube to escape. That's somewhat normal and you are to just wipe it away when it piles up. The tube will get some in it too from time to time and I just take the tube out and plunge clean it. Its regular maintenance for me and it has never caused any problems. It's been said there is enough lube in the case to last for up to 200 hours of operation. Don't think I'll worry about it for a while.

g. You have to clean the tube between carburetor and engine, if there is grease inside, the pump in the carburetor will not function properly anymore. The first flights you will have to do it regularly. If you don't like to do it you can use a fuel pump ( APS : it has a by-pass and gives constant pressure, I switch it on together with the ignition)

h. (You guy's that are running oil instead of grease in the front for the cam gears, How is it not blowing through the pulse generator line? How are you sealing it from running out of the front bearing? Also, the pulse generator is a piston. The sleeve it rides is has a pin hole under the festo type fitting in the sleeve. That is where the grease pushes out to make the mess on front of the engine. What’s different when running oil? I have questions about the gear oil and about the fuel pump. Exactly what weight and brand gear oil are you using in your MOKI ? How many hours have you run your engine(s) with gear oil instead of grease? Does the gear oil need to be changed periodically?

i. I have been using 80-grade gear oil in my engines for more than four years, since I replaced the first set of planet gears (apparently the factory replaced these brass gears FOC).

j. I don’t use the generator it's blanked off. The front bearing is double rubber shielded. I loose little or no oil from it. As to why? As an engineer I do not consider grease a good lubricant for a gearbox.




k. I agree. grease will not absorb the heat from the gears. I just think the oil will add a lot of life to the front of the engine. The reason for the oil in the front housing is, in my experience over a long time the grease tends to collect in the voids in the housing eventually starving the gears and cam ring of lubricant. With oil this can’t happen as the moving parts are in a bath of lubricant.
This hypothesis is born out in two ways; first the early 215s had brass cam gears which partly because of poor lubrication wore out very quickly, indicated by large gear lash at the prop tip of more than 1inch. The second indication of wear could be seen at the cam ring viewed down the hole when the “Hall sensor” is removed.

l. See Post 761, page 31: Hello RCU, this is Goetz Vogelsang from Vogelsang Aeroscale writing. We own the trademark "Moki", have the engines in stock, run a service center and have tens of thousands of $'s in spare parts in stock with ignition systems and carburetors being on their way.
Furthermore we were in Germany two weeks ago and met with the Moki/Airworld guys at their HQ. If you cannot get your local dealer to repair it for you, the mail address for factory repair returns is:

moki-modell
H1118 Budapest
Budaoersi u 48-50
HUNGARY
Mark for the attention of Zoli Horvath.

m. For Moki parts you could try Stuart Mackay in England and is in contact with the factory. I have purchased pushrods and lifters from him and they came straight from the factory in only a few days. [email protected]
website: http://www.moki.co.uk/mackay.htm
Telephone: +44 1760 721 075 (See Post 553)

n. Loss of Power Tips: If your exit air is minimal then blank off all the holes in the engine mount to help prevent the carb ingesting hot air (you can use very thin ply glued to the mount for this and plastic tubes over the H/L needles). When blanking off the holes in the engine mount to stop hot air reaching the carb you must ensure that the carb can draw air freely from the fuselage or air inlet. The No 3 cylinder, looking from the front is the cylinder at the 7 o’clock position and always gets rich fuel due to its position and the throw of the crank web. Check for fouling if rough running. “Sizzle test” touch each exhaust header in turn with a wet finger. Have all cylinders been running? If so then it is likely that the engine has been ingesting hot air and losing power. You will need a hole of about 2.5 to 3.0 inches in diameter for the carb to draw fresh air from inside the plane and through that same hole on the left edge will be where you route the throttle and choke connections.






9. Oil Mixture Information:

a. I personally run full-synthetic exclusively, even for break in (at a 1:40 mix).
For me personally the risk of stuck valves outweighs the risk of "not breaking in gently". Moki is one of the few companies that can afford a Nicasil treatment by Mahle and others, a process that leads to well known results of the highest grade.

b. As for oils, we recommend the Castrol RS 2T and do not recommend any other brand. But not because all other oils are poor. The reason why I am not an expert on AvGas or Yamalube or Redline is because we found something that is safe and we personally have no reason to leave the safe and beaten path.
Of course it is up to every owner to experiment, if they feel the need to do so, but be aware that you do so at your own risk. The same is true for turbines and 2-cycle engines, of course one can experiment, but results can and will vary.

c. You can spot a good lubricant both by the exhaust fumes (Bell Ray will look like a speeding MACK truck on I-5), the valves themselves of course and the way your sparkplug looks (you need to stop engine on a full throttle run with the engine being hot).
And please remember, forget about all of your 2-cycle experience when it comes to oils and additives, this is a different beast and we all start from scratch once we get our first Moki or Valach.

d. The engines are now shipping with 50:1 instructions. The Europeans have been using it for years! I have several MOKIs and run 50:1 Amsoil (Saber or Dominator) mixed with C-2 Metalon (available at B&B Specialties, Inc.) in all of them right out of the boxes with no regrets. More importantly, no problems and they all run beautifully. Good luck to you and keep us posted.

e. Conflict is whether to run full synthetic from day one or break in with non-systhetic. I've been cautioned about using oil that may cause valves to stick. Castrol 2S TT has been recommended by Gotz Vogelsang.

f. Metalon C-2 is an additive that helps with things like seating the rings and conditioning the bore/piston. It's what I do. Not the gospel but it works great for me. Gotz certainly has the inside track on info as he is the distributor. He also fly’s these engines and visits the mfg. on a somewhat annual basis. Do what makes you comfortable and I'm sure it will all work out.

g. Since we have different oil blends over here than they have in Europe it has been quite a journey for the Moki users over here to find the right oil.
We use the aforementioned Castrol RS 2T and cannot recommend any other brand or blend for one reason only: we had great results with the RS 2T and did not want to risk inferior results when trying out other blends and brands, as well. Bottom line: if it works for the Moki Veterans here on the forum it will work for you. Word of warning: stay away from Bell-Ray, they changed their blend and it has become a real valve killer.


h. Everyone has their favorite oil brand and its difficult to evaluate all of them. My personal experience has been with Yamalube 2R. It is totally non-synthetic and will allow rings to seat more quickly. I break-in all my engines (3W, BME, Brison, DA, Moki radials) at 32:1 for the first five gallons, then switch to high grade synthentic (Amsoil, Klotz, etc) at 50:1 with 100L aviation fuel (100 octane, low lead).

i. There is one problem with the Moki radial and that is the #3 cylinder. With 32:1 oil mixture it is difficult to keep the #3 cylinder from dropping out because of the oil concentration and the low operating temperature. You may need to pull the #3 plug occasionally to keep it from fouling. Once you get to 50:1 the problem will go away. My only caution is being sure to keep track of the cylinder head temperatures. It’s very important that you don't overheat the engine or the ignition module.

10. Propeller Information: “Combined 150, 215, 250, 400”

a. MOKI 150: The recommended prop for break in is a 26x16 2blade. The top rpm is about 5400 and you're not really to exceed that. Some say there is a rev limiter built into the ignition that won't allow you to damage the engine. A three blade prop that would work well would be a 26x14 or 25x16. if those aren't available the 25 to 26x12 would be good too.

b. Prop Information: You can just reduce the pitch or the diameter by 1 or 2 and go to four blade. For instance, a 32 x 12 x 4 blade or a 30 x 14 x 4 blade would be a great place to start. Also, don't be afraid to speak with Wayne at SOLO PROPS and get his input. I would assume he deals with this stuff every day. I run a 3 blade SOLO PROP on a 250 currently set at 30 x 17.5 x 3 blade and love it.

c. Four Blade prop lovers check this out. http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/category/PCB4/Biela-4-Blade-Carbon-Fiber-(CF)-Propellers.html There are Biela Composite functional 4 blade props here for sale. Fairly reasonable too! TBM is specifying these for the Moki 150, 215, and the 250.

d. European distributor of the engine recommends this:

Moki 150:
Zweiblatt (2 blade) 26 x 16; 28 x 14; 30 x 12
Dreiblatt (3 blade) 24 x 16; 26 x14

Moki 250:
Zweiblatt (2 blade) 32 x 16/18/19
Dreiblatt (3 blade) 28 x 16; 30 x16

e. I think a high pitch prop is needed for these 4-stroke engines so that they don't over-rev in flight. The Mentz 34x12 is the prop for me. (Moki 215)

f. Moki factory recommend approx. 4200(215/250) as the most efficient rpm.

g. Thread size of the tapped hole on the prop shaft of the 250 Moki is 4mm. At least on the 150, 215, and 250. TBM sells a handy adapter that takes it to 10-32 if you need to go that route.

11. Turbulator:

a. I just corresponded with the guy in Germany on the turbulators and this is the email address that I used, [email protected]

b. I have recently corresponded with Detlef myself. Seems like a helpful nice guy. I have his kit on the way for my 150. The directions are in German and my friend in Germany will translate them. I will post the translated directions when they arrive.

c. With the turbulator plus the air filter and adapter, you will need 4.65 inches more clearance behind the engine.

d. According to Detlef, The larger engines need the turbulator less if I understand him correctly. The 150 is the more likely to benefit. He is sending me two additional stators with different spiral pitch so I can really dial in my 150. He said very recently Moki finally admitted that most 150's run unevenly and attempted a half hearted fix by putting in a restrictor between the crankcase and the carb. For about 158 euros ($225.00) you get a turbulator, two additional stators, two machined billet carb arms and an air filter.

e. The Turbulator and filter and adapter measure 4.65 inches, those filters come from K & N Engineering, P.O. Box 1329, Riverside, CA 92502, Part# 62-1370.

f. There have been two conflicting reports on the Turbulator. One says that it works better on the larger MOKIs and is not needed on the 150. The other says just the opposite. Has anyone found out which is correct? If so, which is correct?? After reading very carefully what Detlef kunkel says, The larger Moki's run better than the 150. With the turbulator the larger engines RESPOND to the benefits of this device better than the 150 does, even though the smaller engine needs the benefits more. (DARN). Now Detlef is sending me a turbulator with different stators to try to dial in the engine. He said with careful attention the 150's can be made to run very well (or go like hell in his words). For clarity the "stator" is the twirled metal vanes that spin the fuel mixture. See Post 542, Page 22. (turbulator translation from German to English) For Additional Information (See Post 555).

12. SMOKE System:

a. You want SMOKE? How are you guys installing smoke systems to the Mokies?
Is it as simple as tapping a nipple into the collector ring? Where is the nipple placed if on the ring? Also, which smoke system are you guys using? Thanks.
b. I tapped into the ring at the topmost spot. The Sullivan Skywriter pump is what I use as it's programmable to lessen the amount of oil injected as the throttle is reduced. Its batteries are also self-contained.



13. Engine Kill Options:

a. Emergency Engine Kill Option: Use a servo to work the choke and it also serves as an engine kill switch if needed. Two birds with one stone....eh!

b. I know around here at most fly-ins if you have a gas engine you must have a secondary kill method. An ignition kill or choke kill is accepted practice.

c. MOKI Cylinder numbering sequence:



d. MOKI Dimensions:
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