maser

Larry,

Be carefulwith the depth of the wing. Placea piece of balsa on the top of the wing to be sure the gear fits without protruding through the top. Also be sure you can take the gear out of the wing for servicing later.

Looking good.

Boyd.

lkahn4

Thanks, I will check, it looks like the axle needs to be cut to size once the wheel is attached..

maser

Here is how I installed the air tank. I used silcone to "glue" the tank it to the former that comes out with the air tank.

Dean rcu

My Feedback: (5)

Maser your keel looks flush with the top of the formers. Did you use 1/4 x 1/2 ? The keel should protrude 1/8th above the formers and the covering brought flush up against it.

Dean

maser

Dean RCU,

Great observation. I did not see that in the original build. I have already sheeted the bottom so can't correct the mistake.

Thanks.

Boyd.

WARBIRDRCER

My Feedback: (22)

OOPS!

Boyd, just rip the sheeting off or I will point this out to everyone at the field

maser

Steve,

I might make the same mistake on my portion of thebuild foryour Charlie Kellogg Skyraider. You better watch me closely. HA!

Boyd.

WARBIRDRCER

My Feedback: (22)

Boyd, after an extreme review of my thoughts and your response; I refer to my childhood mentor, and I quote: “I KNOW NOTHING!�

lkahn4

Hey guys
Thanks for the heads up on the fuselage. Something to watch out for when I eventually get that far. Will be epoxing the right hand main in tonight so I can finish the right side of the wing
Boyd thanks for all your help so far

Larry

maser

Larry,

I noticed in your pix you did not have anything on the trailing end of the ribs to support them while you were building.  What is your method for the wing not to "warp" until you get some sheeting on?

Boyd.

lkahn4

Boyd,
Actual her is a piece of 1/4" balsa stick under the ribs, just not at the tips. so far everything seems to be straight but as soon as I get the last 3 right side ribs in I will rechack before attaching the leding and trailing edge.
Still having a slight fit issue with the gear and W3 and 4, but I WILL prevail

Thanks for the concern, I really appreciate it... I'm such a neophyte when it comes to this, still learning as I go

Thanks again
Larry

maser

Larry,

Neophyte? Your Charlie Kellogg Avenger build looks good to me. I think you have added more detail than I might of taken on. Will be glad to see the finsihed product when you post the pix's.

Boyd

lkahn4

Boyd,
Question for you. It looks like you built 1 half and partially sheets it before moving onto the other half, am I seeing that right in the pix. I would have thought building the entire wing before starting the sheeting.
I have the retract permanently in and the airlines attached, have to thread the tubes for the hoses and servo wire extensions and put on the leading and trailing edges and affix the hinges and will be ready to partially sheet.

Larry

maser

Larry,

You are correct. I sheeted about 2/3rds of the wing halfprior to going to the other side. This gives it just enough rigidity to hold the wing in alignment.

Boyd.

lkahn4

Thanks for confirming for me, I think that will mount the servos when I turn the wing over so I can make sure that they sit in the rib bays at the correct depths. It is amazing that as you get further along the more you want to see accomplished. I will post some pix next week.

Thanks
Larry

maser

Larry,

I hear you on that one. I am glassing mine as we speak.

I still have not resolved howI will keep the canopies closed in flight. They have no mecanical means to open and close them. All done by hand. I will incorporate some earth magnets some how with possibly a bolt. This one has me stumped.

I'll post some pix's when I have it primed.


Boyd.

lkahn4

Boyd
Good news on the glassing. First let me tell how how surprised I was tonite when I found the trailing wing Edge to trial fit and found that I have to cut it to size..LOL
I have been doing a lot of thinking of how to operate the canopy, we used the slides on the avenger and they are manual with magnets to keep it closed. What do you think about a threaded rod and a worm gear to drive the rod, that way you can actually determine the speed at which the canopy would open and close.
The other thought I had was to affix a 4-40 nut to the inside of the canopy and affix the rod to a small electric motor with a coupler and a reversing switch, let me know what you think.

Larry

YAT-28E

Check with Dean RCU i think his slid and not sure how....

maser

Larry,

I'm not sure how I'd fit a worm gear drive. Although this is a big model, there is not much space at the top of the fusalage to fit somthing like a worm gear. Besides it may take some extensive work to get it to fit. I'm so far along I would hate to start tearing things apart. Sounds like a good idea anyway.

Boyd.

maser

YAT-28E,

Lets see if Dean has any suggestions.

Boyd.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

You can buy small linear actuators that will move the canopy. Not cheap though at nearly $100 per. Plus you need to make the make all the attachments for the canopy etc.

maser

Bob H

I am not aware of the linear acuators. Where do you get them?

Boyd.

Dean rcu

My Feedback: (5)

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Hi Boyd, I lined the canopy frame with Velcro on the T-28, The 1/4 scale T-34 I recently finished was accomplished with magnets. You can purchase linear acuators here. http://servocity.com/

maser

Dean

Thanks. Where doyou come up with your ideas. You seem to have a so many solutions.

I can see the velcro on your T-28 now that you told me what to look for. I think I'll use the magnets like you did on the T-34. This seems to be a easy solution to my problem without to much added work.

BTW-Have you used mechanical means to open/close your canopy, and if so which one do you like the best.

Boyd.

Dean rcu

My Feedback: (5)

Boyd , About 20 years ago I built a 1/5th scale P-47 and used a 4" air cylinder to move the canopy. The T-28 would be a difficult with 2 canopys. You guys have go me interested in building another T-28.