Vailly Aviation Hawker Hurricane Build Thread
#427
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I decided that I would cover the large openings in the wings at the base of the landing gear. I just used some rare earth magnets on the bolts that hold the gear in, glued is some balsa, and sanded. then fibertglass and sand and prime.
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I bought some aluminum paint for headers and exhausts, and instead of using it I sprayed some on a card. I think I'll try to match the silver with a light gray and call it good. I have ordered some more WBC from Chuck.
#430
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I've been doing some painting of the fuse bottom. Here is a pic of a sample of the aluminum paint on some cardboard resting on the underside of the stab that I just painted grey. I started with white and just added some Ocean Grey bit by bit until I thought the match was close. The pic was taken in bright sunlight so hopefully the color is true. Also repainted the scoop and the carb inlet with black and white WBC.
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Daddy, man you're doing a super job - too bad you felt you had to use flitemetal and filler on the stab fillets. These planes were early '30 designs, and a lot of stuff wasn't very smooth and tight - definately not stressed skin construction. Panels like those fillets were duralumin and just held on with 1/4 turns (Dzuz fasteners). Your "attempt" with lino would likely have been pretty much scale LOLOL lighter too
#432
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I broke out my Airfix 1-24 scale Hurricane kit and put some panel lines on the Hurricane wings. Then shot some primer, white, and black Warbirdcolors. I've discovered that by adjusting the pressure, the amount of either denatured alcohol, or using distilled water, I can get the paint to "wet out" for that final coat. Obviously it helps when I remember to plug the compressor in.....wondered why my spray was dwindling.....
#435
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Thanks Chad and Casey. The plane won't have that competition level finish but I'm hoping that by having it flying I will have more patience in the finishing phase of the next one. We will see what I can get done this week. I'm nervous about the stencils because I have not used them on fabric before. I really don't want them to bleed do I will have to be very careful.
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Mine was given to me already built. It weighs just a bit less than a ton. Haven't weighed it, but it's in the thirties. With a G 62 up front, it literally has a half a soup tin of led to balance it........ But flies pretty good regardless. With all that weight, anything but a well executed landing usually results in repairs so landings are always a challenge. As Valleys Site points out, with that small stab and elevator, you need to keep some speed till touchdown or you will have problems with flair......... Carry too much and that thick wing will float you long or get you in a porpoise situation. Again, heavy bird. It's a love - hate thing with mine, but I have another short kit and parts and will pay attention to all the lighting techniques you guys have offered. Thanks
I'm not a scale guy, but loosely based the latest paint scheme on the night fighter............ With invasion stripes........ Sorry scale guys, but I love invasion stripes. Attached a pic as the scheme really pops! If you zoom in, you'll see some packing tape battle damage to canopy when I floated a landing and rolled it on her back.
Cheers
I'm not a scale guy, but loosely based the latest paint scheme on the night fighter............ With invasion stripes........ Sorry scale guys, but I love invasion stripes. Attached a pic as the scheme really pops! If you zoom in, you'll see some packing tape battle damage to canopy when I floated a landing and rolled it on her back.
Cheers
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I found that when I am painting inside that I can use some denatured alcohol as thinner. I've been doing this painting outside in the sun and it's about 80 degrees. I found that the paint would not "wet out" on the flow coat unless I used water (I'm using distilled but I'm sure tap water would work too). I am trying to take this part slowly and have sprayed the tape lines with clear in the hopes of avoiding any bleeding. I'm a bit nervous about how fine I can get the lines between the camo but we'll see. I hope to have more pix to post later today.
Sam
Sam
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I started painting this morning and it began raining. After painting in sunlight, painting in the garage is no good. I love the natural light. I've painted the whole fuse with an airbrush, the wings with the HVLP gun. now that it's assembled I"ll dress up the lines so they meet well, and then I'll use a slightly thinner paint to bring the camo lines together.
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Super Daddy.... looks great. That masking stuff I was refering to is Frisket. It's a frosted plastic, ever so slightly tacky, great for masks and masking..
Love the job your doing, mine is just in the "glue the 57 stringers into place" stage, about 2 years behind you
Love the job your doing, mine is just in the "glue the 57 stringers into place" stage, about 2 years behind you
#448
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Thanks Kelly!
The stringer stage! I think substituting balsa for spruce saves a ton of weight. I have continued with the painting and hope to have some insignia on tomorrow. I'll get some more pix up tonight or tomorrow. This is definitely not a speed build!
The stringer stage! I think substituting balsa for spruce saves a ton of weight. I have continued with the painting and hope to have some insignia on tomorrow. I'll get some more pix up tonight or tomorrow. This is definitely not a speed build!
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I had figured that switching from spruce to balsa would save around 5 pounds (lot's of 'rithmatic involved in that guess), but lot's of discussion about the strength of the rear fuse, so I went with clear pine. That saves me 2 pounds total and i still have the strength....
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I'm sure it will make a huge difference in the overall weight, especially the nose weight. I told myself I was not going to mess around the the landing gear and I was getting ready to paint some insignia today. But, then I looked at the gear again and felt that there had to be a way to make a fake rear strut that would not take too much effort. Wrong. I spent hours trying to figure out that the little flap door on the wing was fastened to the wing itself. I made it with a slot inside to take the fake strut end, to allow it to slide inside the pocket as it's geometry changes. What a pain! I think that when I get some paint on it, it will look okay. I still haven't figured out what kind of fake tubular strut I can attach. something with some rigidity but some flexibility. Anyway, here are some shots of the gear: