Vailly Aviation Hawker Hurricane Build Thread
08-31-2013, 09:07 AM
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I ended up cutting a section of plastic tube in half, wrapping it in aluminum tape, "filling" the hollow at three places with balsa, and then gluing it via the balsa to the inside of the strut door. The "strut" is flexible enough to withstand a bit of a bend and is stiff enough to make sure the little flapper door works. After some paint I'll post another pic.
08-31-2013, 11:18 AM
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Getting some more paint on today. I have a few areas of the camo to touch up (a mis match on the cowl is only one place) and then I'll get ready for the stencils.
08-31-2013, 12:42 PM
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As I was taking the plane apart I thought I'd take a pic of the bottom of the plane. I also test fit the cowl. The blue lines are holes with rare earth magnets in them, and the pins are steel. The red circles are the 6=32 bolts and blind nut locations.
09-02-2013, 07:43 AM
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I finally came up with a workable idea for mounting the antenna. I made the antenna from hard balsa using BT's outline. then I inserted/glued some 4-40 rod into it. I already had made a reinforced slot under the covering on the fuse spine. I then fashioned a retention mechanism using a small wheel collar with a 4-40 bolt and a block of balsa. The antenna goes into the fuse, through the wheel collar, and then I tighten it down through the access hatch.
09-02-2013, 11:54 AM
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very nice touch that - Daddy.
That recess in the wing that you've made the phoney strut for - that strut on the real plane was what made the gear rotate the 15deg as it went up and down. i don't thinnk that was it's only function, but check out the geometry and it is certainly part of what it did..
That recess in the wing that you've made the phoney strut for - that strut on the real plane was what made the gear rotate the 15deg as it went up and down. i don't thinnk that was it's only function, but check out the geometry and it is certainly part of what it did..
09-02-2013, 06:40 PM
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I agree Sandy. The real gear is pulled up by a jack strut and the support strut trails along as the strut rotates. It will be interesting on the next one when I use the Sierra gear to see what I can come up with for the support strut. Mick Reeves has a neat near scale operating Hurricane gear for his 1/4 scale kit. If you visit his site or check Youtube there is a video of it working. Pretty neat. I'll be happy (and relieved) when the gear (and the plane that carries it) operates as designed and proves itself a good flier. I've got the wing stencils done and am working on the fuse stencils now. I may have to order some more transfer sheets with white lettering for the underside of the black wing, as I forgot to order them earlier.
Sam
Sam
09-03-2013, 07:30 AM
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I have a set of the Sierra's for this plane - his cam set up for rotation is a joy to behold!!
I would think a strut that rotates freely on the main gear leg, and is attached to the wing with something like a large ball link?? It doesn't have to be functional, just rotate and pivot..some times my brain knows what I'm thinking but my mouth and fingers can't express it....LOL
I would think a strut that rotates freely on the main gear leg, and is attached to the wing with something like a large ball link?? It doesn't have to be functional, just rotate and pivot..some times my brain knows what I'm thinking but my mouth and fingers can't express it....LOL
09-08-2013, 06:07 AM
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I've used the stencils from Vikie at www.getstencils.com. I started using them years ago when Gary first started the business and they make painting insignia soo much easier. I have noticed that there is a "sweet spot" of time when the paint is dry but just barely, when it's time to pull the stencils up. Wait too short a time and the paint can run, wait too long and the paint will adhere to the stencil and tear. I had to retouch the letter "K" and had a bit of a ragged edge on one of the fuse roundels, but other than that did not have any problems. There should be a "Murphy's Law" for painting. I found that invariably when I was ready to shoot a big area, the airbrush that up till then had been working flawlessly, would have a clogged nozzle, or the pickup tube would clog, or the compressor would start acting weird, or it would start to rain, etc.. But here are a few pics of the plane with insigina:
09-08-2013, 06:20 AM
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I have been applying some of the transfers that Vikie made for me. My first two were a bit shaky but after I figured out that I needed to tape them in place with clear tape while I rubbed them down they started to turn out well. I've also started clear coating parts of the plane, using Nelson Hobby flat clear. I read up on this stuff and found some very different opinions. I tried treating it like Warbird Colors and that was a mistake. It does not thin with denatured alcohol and laquer thinner and Toluol, which is what I clean up WBC off my airbrush and HVLP with, just turns the paint into a gummy mess. But when you thin it with water (and I snobbily use distilled water), at one to one, it sprays out very nicely. I've learned that it's very easy to put too much on at one time, and it's hard to see where you've sprayed unless the light is just right. The good news is that when it dries, the "blotchiness" goes away and it looks fine. I have a few areas when it has run and I'm not sure what I'm going to do about those - perhaps a light sanding and light respray, but overall I'm happy with it. Here are some pix of the underside of the stabs and elevator, and the right wing, which I sprayed to protect the rub on transfers. Hopefully I'll get more on today.
sam
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09-08-2013, 05:55 PM
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Today I got some painting in before church, and then got a coat of clear on afterwards. So here it is, before the next phase, which is weatherlng. My brother is an accomplished plastic scale modeler and artist, and is going to help with the weathering next weekend. The goal is to make it look real, not worn. This week I will be trying to get the radio/linkage/ engine plumbing done, so I'll be able to do some engine runs in a week or two. So without further ado, here is a bucket load of pix:
Last edited by DaddySam; 09-08-2013 at 06:13 PM.
09-11-2013, 04:44 AM
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Thank you Gents! Life has accelerated this week so I have not had time to do much. I hope to be able to post some pix later this week. I'm debating on whether to put the RX in the wing, as the fuse only has three servos and the power leads to hook up, and the wing has much more!
09-15-2013, 05:22 PM
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Yesterday and today my brother came over and began the weathering process. It was not just a case of putting some silver chips on a panel line or spraying some exhaust lines (although that did eventually happen). My brother worked for a company that made TV commercials using miniatures like the California Raisins so he not only build models but had to make them look real. He explained it as a process where he paints an effect and then repaints and reshades it over and over again. He creates the illusion of the model being the real deal.I'll post some of the pictures but beware - it's not done yet! He starts off by remasking the panel lines and spraying some light black paint up to them (not past them, although the weathering will look like it).
09-15-2013, 05:29 PM
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By doing this he was able to create a panel line behind the cowl break which I had tried to do with Chart Pak tape but was unsuccessful. He then shades the dip between stringers with a bit of black to add some depth.
09-15-2013, 05:39 PM
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More and more shading of the sunken areas and lightening of the areas that are closer, such as the ribs. Today he had me mix up two greens, two browns, white, and black (and some rust when we got to the exhaust). He would then paint lightly over the lines he'd just done and paint into the camo, darkening the areas that were recessed and lightening the areas that were prominent.
09-15-2013, 05:42 PM
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And the process continues. He changes colors (three color cups was barely enough) and goes from light to dark shading as he sees fit. He said it was like oil painting (like I would know what that was like!).
01-08-2014, 04:47 PM
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[h=2]RE: Vailly Aviation Hawker Hurricane Build Thread[/h]
So Sam on your build have you set the wing incidence as the plan?
Also if there are any comments from readers who have an opinion or understanding on this it would be appreciated as i have not fixed the wing in yet.
Dave.
Hi, Stan was good enough to give me the fuselage and the good bloke he is he would take no money for it, but i did do an hour in the bush in shorts and thongs looking for it, with no success but our resident aircraft finder found it the next day.
The wing was stuffed but the body is ok.
It flew very well i was standing beside him doing the heavy model rego. with him as the pilot. He passed on the aircraft no problem and just needed to land and as he says he clipped the wing on the decent and in it went in a very thick snake filled hellish part of our club field.
I put my Mick reeves Hurricane in a few weeks before and the wings survived i was going to marry them up but as my Hurricane was a Sunday flyer and was 15 years old i did not have the heart to put my crap wings onto Stans great fuselage so i will be going to Brad at lasor cut
www.lasercutkits.com.au
for a new wing kit, he has already cut me a fuselage but Stan has given me his so that's saved a hell of a lot of work.
Stan is in the process of building a Mick Reeves 110 inch Hurricane.
Dave
SEE ABOVE FROM MY PREVIOUS POST
Hi Daddy Sam has your Hurricane flown yet?
I have been building a new wing for Stans Hurricane he hit a tree on the landing approach when doing his over 7kg certification.
He gave the more or less undamaged fuselage to me, and i am up to the point of trial fitting the new built wing for position and wing incidence.
The wing fits ok as a trial but i am worried about the wing incidence given on the plan.
The horizontal stab is given as + 1 1/2 degrees that means the leading edge of the stab is up by 1 1/2 Degrees thats ok i have put that into large aircraft before and that has the tenancy to push the nose down like a small amount of elevator, but the main wing incidence is given as +2 degrees and that means the leading edge of the wing is up by 2 degrees that is more or less how my new wing sits in
Stans fuselage now on first temporary try.
I always have my wing tips at -2 degrees washout, or the trailing edge of the wing tip up by two degrees.
So that means i have to set in the washout thats not a problem as the outer wings are not covered yet and they are quite flexible i also have set in 2 degrees when building in any case.
My problem is why have the +2 degrees on the wing in the first place? and what tendencies will the aircraft have with this + 2 degrees set in i can see that it may have some sought of benefit when landing as when the nose is pointing down the wing will be in a more horizontal attitude.
I have seen This aircraft landing with the original wing and it was a problem it tended to porpoise up and down and reading other blogs on this aircraft, there seams to be a landing problem.
I set my other large aircraft at zero where it fits into the fuselage and 2 degrees washout at the tips. ie. the trailing edge at the tips are up by 2 degrees
The wing was stuffed but the body is ok.
It flew very well i was standing beside him doing the heavy model rego. with him as the pilot. He passed on the aircraft no problem and just needed to land and as he says he clipped the wing on the decent and in it went in a very thick snake filled hellish part of our club field.
I put my Mick reeves Hurricane in a few weeks before and the wings survived i was going to marry them up but as my Hurricane was a Sunday flyer and was 15 years old i did not have the heart to put my crap wings onto Stans great fuselage so i will be going to Brad at lasor cut
www.lasercutkits.com.au
for a new wing kit, he has already cut me a fuselage but Stan has given me his so that's saved a hell of a lot of work.
Stan is in the process of building a Mick Reeves 110 inch Hurricane.
Dave
SEE ABOVE FROM MY PREVIOUS POST
Hi Daddy Sam has your Hurricane flown yet?
I have been building a new wing for Stans Hurricane he hit a tree on the landing approach when doing his over 7kg certification.
He gave the more or less undamaged fuselage to me, and i am up to the point of trial fitting the new built wing for position and wing incidence.
The wing fits ok as a trial but i am worried about the wing incidence given on the plan.
The horizontal stab is given as + 1 1/2 degrees that means the leading edge of the stab is up by 1 1/2 Degrees thats ok i have put that into large aircraft before and that has the tenancy to push the nose down like a small amount of elevator, but the main wing incidence is given as +2 degrees and that means the leading edge of the wing is up by 2 degrees that is more or less how my new wing sits in
Stans fuselage now on first temporary try.
I always have my wing tips at -2 degrees washout, or the trailing edge of the wing tip up by two degrees.
So that means i have to set in the washout thats not a problem as the outer wings are not covered yet and they are quite flexible i also have set in 2 degrees when building in any case.
My problem is why have the +2 degrees on the wing in the first place? and what tendencies will the aircraft have with this + 2 degrees set in i can see that it may have some sought of benefit when landing as when the nose is pointing down the wing will be in a more horizontal attitude.
I have seen This aircraft landing with the original wing and it was a problem it tended to porpoise up and down and reading other blogs on this aircraft, there seams to be a landing problem.
I set my other large aircraft at zero where it fits into the fuselage and 2 degrees washout at the tips. ie. the trailing edge at the tips are up by 2 degrees
So Sam on your build have you set the wing incidence as the plan?
Also if there are any comments from readers who have an opinion or understanding on this it would be appreciated as i have not fixed the wing in yet.
Dave.