blue77

My Feedback: (178)

FYI....for all needing, Troybuit has a spinner/hub that is made to fit the DLE30/55, it should look great on the P-47...B7

blue77

My Feedback: (178)

Oldtimer...I saw a post you made on another thread about putting the air tank and control on the wing....what a great idea...I'm going to do my best to do the same....Thanks, B7

jdpg265

Can someone be so kind as to measure their cowl for the ESM P47? I need the following dimentions

* high and width of the cowl where it mounts to the firewall.
* distance from firewall to front edge of cowl
* width and hight of the cowl approx 3.5 inches away from the firewall measured from the center line of the prop.

I want to stuff a Saito 200r3 in this bird and i am looking to not have to cut relieve opening in the cowl.

Thanks
John

blue77

My Feedback: (178)

Hey....mine measures about 8" wide and 11" high....where the ring fits it is about a 1/4" less at the top and on each side..hope this helps...B7

VIRGINIA MODEL BUILDERS

My Feedback: (159)

On my personal builds I always swap harware and utilize 440 rods

oldtimer4759

hello B7,
the tank will fit in under the wing in the belly pan, I glued mine in place with some natural cure Silastic, I have the fill point and the gauge mounted in the belly pan as well, with the control and servo on top, all together, no joiners to leak, just a few less things for "Murphy" to cause problems.
My system will hold air for weeks, I used a Robart variable control valve, but be careful with them, as you adjust the rate of air flow the adjuster is only in a couple of turns, when you do the lock nut up it will pull the threads very easily, IMO they are not a good design, need improvement. but you can get around it by shortening the pointy bit on the adjuster.
there are several other Hobby shops that sell just a single adjuster, even with 2 of them it is still a lot cheaper than the Robart valve.
if you are using the ESM air retract system, check every nut, bolt and screw on them, also the piston rod, I pulled each item out and put some Silastic on each thread, one set I have when I did all the bolts up they were just a bit tight in the retracts, so I had to loosen the bolts just a bit, so as to get free movement.
Oldtimer.

blue77

My Feedback: (178)

mmn and anyone else with ideas please.....I have become so frustrated with the hardware in this ARF that I have junked it and starting over....mmn, I am using your idea for the elevators, but I need pics and ideas for the rudder and tail wheel...please...Thanks, B7

VIRGINIA MODEL BUILDERS

My Feedback: (159)

I would be happy to help.As you already know we offer this plane as receiver ready.We are currently building out 2 ESM P47 arfs for customers. The hardware supplied takes some getting used to. The Nylon fitting can be used but, run a 2.5 mm tap through them and then they will take the supplied push rods easily.
As for the tail wheel. The steering they indicate requires the use of an external pushrod from the rudder going back into the fuse.Very ugly and poor thinking.I set this up in 2 different ways.
(1) second set of pull- pull cables off of the servo arm or
(2) an internal pushrod that comes off the steering servo.
Both methods keep the linkage internal.
If you desire I can post build photos or send them to you by email.
Our direct e mail is [email protected] tel 804-270-7635

mmn

My Feedback: (4)

Yeah I pretty much did what VMB did in the post above - the 2nd option. I threw away the pull-pull stuff that came with the arf and bought a replacement kit. And I ran a pushrod inside a guide tube from the tail wheel to the rudder servo. This, coupled with the extra linkage for the dual elevator servos adds a little extra tail weight but I still added I believe around 12 oz to the nose for balance with the 26cc I have in there.

Getting ready to build another fuse - I had a spare one and I've dorked up the one I have with tying it down too tight in the trailer. Will be using all the parts from the old one and will prolly do it the same way. Except I'm gonna use a 30cc. That 26cc is just a little too much excitement for me. When i punch it I like to see something actually happen. Prolly more scale though.

VMB said he would supply photos. If that doesn't happen I can take a few and post them.

Regards
Michael

oldtimer4759

hi,
I have the DLE 30 in my 47, the engine and muffler will fit inside the cowl without a problem, prop is a 19 x 8 JXF, same as XOAR apparently, RPM is a bit under 7,000, no added weight, but I do have the engine battery pack and 2 x 5 cell Rx packs just behind the firewall.
very happy with the way the model flies with this engine, good speed and good climbing power, only problem with the DLE is the so called muffler, it is really just a straight through pipe, so it will be noisy,
seems by a few web sites the DLE is being discontinued, there is an RCGF 32 with a Pitts style muffler, I have the RCG 26 with a Pitts muffler and it is quiet. not sure if there is a diff between RCG and RCGF engines.

Oldtimer.

VIRGINIA MODEL BUILDERS

My Feedback: (159)

Where did you hear the DLE 30 is beeing discontinued?

oldtimer4759

hi,
I have seen that written on 2 different web sites, maybe it is just because they cant get the engines, I dont know, Hobby King have stopped selling the 30 size a while back, the other site is Hi Models, they list the DLE 30 as discontinued.
that is all, I have a DLE 30 and am very happy with it, I also have an RCG 26 and am happy with it.
there are so many similar engines out there now, DA, DLE, DLA, RCG, RCGF, they all seem to be similar with only minor differences, reading different forums they all have good and bad reports. I dont know where they are all manufactured, as per a lot of things nowadays, probably China.

Oldtimer.

VIRGINIA MODEL BUILDERS

My Feedback: (159)

Here goes
DLA and SE engines are both manufactured by the same company. Both engines are available with 4.8 v RCEXL ignitions or 7.4 V lipo ignitions.
DLE is manufactured by a different factory.

DLE HAS CAST CRANKCASE DLA AND SE HAVE CNC MACHINED CRANKCASE
DLE USE CHINESE BEARINGS DLA AND SE USE JAPANESE BEARINGS
DLE IS 30 CC DLA IS 32 CC
DLE IS 55CC DLA IS 56 CC
CARBURATION ON DLE , DLA AND SE ENGINES ARE GENERALLY WALBRO OR TILLOTSON ( BOTH ARE VERY OLD ESTABLISHED CARB MANUFACTURERS)
DLE, DLA AND SE ALL USE THE SAME STAND OFF SPACING
I hope this at least answers some of the questions

oldtimer4759

hi,
thanks for that info, I have the DLE 30 very good support in Australia, I also have an RCG 26 so far it is very good, not run in yet, hope it keeps going like it is, at $140 from HK I dont expect very much in the way of support, if it dies eventually, buy another one, if it dies quick, buy something else.

Oldtimer.

show871

What size tire is best for this P47? What size comes with the ESM retracts?????

Thanks!

VIRGINIA MODEL BUILDERS

My Feedback: (159)

Good morning from Your ESM dealer.
The wheels for the esm p47 retracts are aluminum hub rubber tires. The main wheels are 41/4 " diameter. The tail wheel is 1 1/2"
The oleo struts that come included are a true masterpiece as well.

blue77

My Feedback: (178)

Hello....I am working on the Frank Tiano version of the ESM P 47....Very nice...you do need to like to do some building, which for me makes it more enjoyable....most of the hardware is junk, so find some good stuff...I am copying some of the folks on this thread and using 2 servos with rods in tubes for the elevators and pull/pull with 2 hookups for the rudder and tail wheel.....this is a great plane to add some detail and weather to give it an in-service look...Later B7

VIRGINIA MODEL BUILDERS

My Feedback: (159)

A job well done is worth doing.Mine is the camoflage version with ESM retracts one of our DLA 32 cc engines with Pitts muffler. It is set up with dual elevator servos and internal tail wheel controls that keep the instalation nice and clean.

jdpg265

Glen,

Just sent you an email about those pictures you refered too above (tail steering) . I am working on the camoflage version. I have the ESM retracts with the Lado electric conversion. I just finished breaking in my Saito 200r3 so its time to begin building the fuse.

I am going full out on the detail including a scale cockpit, guns and weathering.

blue77

My Feedback: (178)

I'm about ready to install retracts and wonder if anyone has come up with a really good way to mount them....for one thing the screws with the ESM retracts are junk, but I looked all over at Lowes, but no luck....boy a socket head wood screw would be great....Thanks, B7

jdpg265

I buy all of my rc nuts/bolts etc from microfasteners. For the ESM I used the stock screws but covered the gear mounts with 1/2 os glass cloth and CA'ed all around the mounts to add strenght. I added larger washers and locking washers when i screwed them in.

BTW does anyone have a good way for securing the gear liners to the wing? I am concerned about gettign epoxie everywhere.

mmn

My Feedback: (4)

I used silicone sealant with success. That way you can remove them easily after they crack. . .

Regards
Michael

VIRGINIA MODEL BUILDERS

My Feedback: (159)

velcro that is used for computer and electrical wirring.If you choose to use silicon seal do a test to make sure the chemical will not effect the lines

mmn

My Feedback: (4)

Only used it on the edges.

Regards
Michael

blue77

My Feedback: (178)

Hello and some more help please...this is my first experience with retracts....I have the ESMs...is there a way to raise and lower them manually...I'm trying to fit them and I need to raise and lower them a couple of times to get the correct fit and harden the screw holes...Thanks, B7