Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Arvid,
good to see others trying to do this. Check out this thread I ran last year.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_79.../tm.htm#791263

The final result looks great. I'm at the primer/paint stage so I can't say how well she fly,s but in simulation all was well. You MUST change BOTH wing and stab incidence to get a flyable plane or forget it.

Pete

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Top Flite also missed the mark on the wing incidence, it should be 2 degrees I think, and Top Flite plans have 0. If the wing is set right, then the stab should be set right also. Even without setting the wing to a positive incidence, mine seems to need a slight amount of down elevator for level flight, and yes, full scales do fly in what appears to be a slightly nose down attitude. These (scale) incidences create a slight engine downthrust effect (since the wings and stab are positive in relation to the engine, which is at 0 degrees), which in turn means less trim changes are required at different power settings.

Arvid

Ok, that's pretty clear. I'll give it a try. Especially when it makes slow flight (landing.....) and overall flying characteristics better. It should be done....

In the mean while I am building the fuselage with the mod as Hoonnz showed it in another thread. Must say that I had to think hard before I started cutting in the fuselage (don't repair if it isn't broken?....) but I am convinced it is going to work out alright. Here is the thread:

[link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_964836/mpage_8/key_/anchor/tm.htm#1548365[/link]

torp

A couple of pics i snapped for you guru's !!!!!!!
torp

Arvid

Cool, nice pictures!

torp

Here's a link to some detailed pic's some of you might not know about !!!!!
http://www.kiwiaircraftimages.com/corsair.html
torp
If you dudes get a bit of time research kiwi's in corsairs during war , big effort by us .............

hoonnz

Hey Torp

Is that Wanaka? I wasn't fussed about going as the NZ Corsair was sold - now they've bought a better one and I missed out. The shot of the cooling flaps is the best view I've seen of the operating mechanism - its just a drawstring. I've decided to use that method on mine, don't think I'll make little scale pulleys though.

Cheers
Brian

torp

Hi Hooonz , same corsair ,they brought it over from duxford for the show !!!!!!
torp.

........yes ,wanaka on saturday.........

p.s might not be same corsair ,i know one went to Brazil ,think its this one ??????

bob_in_lv

Hello Gents,

I just finished my first attempt at building an RC model, a Top Flight 60 Gold. The engine i used is a Saito 150 4 Stroke. the porblem I am having is fibration cracking the plastic cowl. Does anyone make a fiberglass cowl for this model? I think fiberglass would be stronger and more flexible.

Bob_in_lv

hoonnz

Arvid

I've just come from your thread on the sliding canopy - you really scored there!
Here is what I am doing in my wings. I don't like non-scale external control linkages and horns, so this is my solution to actuating the ailerons. The cranks are to avoid excessive tight curves in the snakes and the double bellcranks are to avoid twisting under load.
The crank could just be pivoted in the centre, but the ball link on the swingee reaches the limit of its swivel so the offset I have built in allows a greater range of movement without sideways stress.

Hopefully the pics are self explanatory.

Arvid

Hoonnz, you rule. This way I can just cut away the existing bar and replace it with a new one an copy this linkage you just showed. I will go back to the store and get some of those swingbees. What size do you use?

The sliding cockpit is a feature which is extremely nice. So if posible I would like to make it as well.

Mel Francis

I lightened up your second picture a bit.

Shows a lot more detail now.....

hoonnz

Arvid

Don't jump in too quick, there are some differences from the normal positions. The ply mount is one rib-bay inboard to where the plan shows, and is shifted back (about 3cm) and down a little. Also the inboard rib it is fitted into normally has a hole popped out so you have to glue its missing balsa back in. The hinging is going to have to be measured very carefully to get the hinge line lined up with the swingee.

I bought my swingees about 5 years ago mail order from England, they are 30mm wide. I wasn't aware there were other sizes.

WarpdSpazm

Try this for hidden linkage

http://www.irfmachineworks.com/rds/

I bought some stuff from them including pre-made pockets. I am very happy with the work... Putting it into my H-9 Corsair.

Arvid

Brian, everything you said I sort of figured it out but it is good to hear the confirmation

I prefer the swingbee rather than the solution presented by WarpdSpazm as then you will have a servo in your wing which can go malfunction. I rather go for static pieces. Still a nice alternative as well, that should be said.

hoonnz

Final test to show it all fits and all works - it just squeaks in with full down aileron, the crank has about 1mm to that hinge block. That is giving 1 inch of aileron movement up and down which is more than needed so there will be no problems, the instructions say 1/2 inch each way. I might shift the link out a bit on the swingee lever to reduce the movement and to allow more servo travel. I like to get all this stuff sorted before sheeting , its sure difficult to adjust later!

Brian.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Looking good, hoonnz. Might I suggest that you add some balsa to the ribs where the plywood bellcrank plate is attached tho. Could be any size from say 1/16" x 3/4" to 1/8 " x 1", running perpendicular to the grain of the ribs, top to bottom (sand to match airfoil), on opposite side as the plywood bellcrank plates. This would reiforce so that the plywood won't have a tendency to break thru the ribs at the attachment points, as has happened to me on a previous Corsair (#102). Without this mod, it is fairly easy to break away some of the rib where the plywood is attached, and very difficult to repair once everything is sheeted.

WarpdSpazm

I'm of the "other" mentality. I'm OK with the servo in the wing with an access hatch as the closer the device is to the controll surface the less material between A and B to get fouled up. Don't get me wrong, I love bellcranks and what can be done with them. I just like my servo right there. I lost my trainer of all things to flutter and slop, so i'm a bit nutty about that stuff. The swingbee i might use on a lazy flier or low aerobatic type a/c to keep wingloading low.

Arvid

@Hoonzz, looking neat!!!!!!

@Ray (is a lot easier than your nick, sorry....
jep, that is also true. Both have there advantages and disadvantages. I think I'll stick to the plan of the swingbee. But nothing is as bad as loosing a plane because of this. I will do my best to make it "fool" proof.

hoonnz

Thanks for the warning Jim, the general weakness of the thin ply and the rib attachment had nagged at me but I decided not to beef it up as it is basically the same as the plan calls for, so it must be OK. I often strengthen things up and then wonder if I have just added weight unnecessarily.
But if you have seen a failure there, well its a word to the wise. It will be done, and gratefully.
How is your Corsair going?

Brian

US185Damiani

Bump,
this thread has helped me immensly in building a nicer corsair, so I thought it should move to the top.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

AIR KIT on the WING

Contrary to Top Flite instruction/ plans, I have been installing the retract air kit on the wing of my Top Flite Corsairs. As some have requested, here are pics of my current (#167) Corsair wing, showing the air kit installation. The servo is a Futaba S133. A 1/8" hard ply block has drilled to accept the valve, then glued to the back side of the main spar. I have fashioned a cradle in the rear of the tank area. Tank is held on with Velcro strap.

I think installing air kits on the wing makes things easier in the long run: shorter lines and fewer connection problems.

The black wires exititing the forward section of the wing are for the newly installed Vortac bomb drop mechanisms (not connected to servo yet), as I have completed my drop tank installation and hope to fly it this weekend, will post pics if I do.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

DROP TANKS/ BOMB DROP PYLONS #1

OK, FINALLY got my drop tanks installed, and flew with them for the first time Sunday, May 16, 2004.
I didn't take the time to weigh tham as I went along (I meant to, but got to involved in trying to get them finished), nor did I take notes or measurements, just sorta used the 'that looks about right' method.

This post has pic of pylons with one side (1/64" ply) added to mounting base (1/8" lite ply w blind nuts added), and bent aluminum tube for wire routing.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

DROP TANKS/ BOMB DROP PYLONS #2

360 deg views. Forgot to mention that I am using the out of production Vortac bomb release units. Sure wish someone would buy up this comapany's assets, re-open the doors and start making these again (previous owner passed away).

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

DROP TANKS/ BOMB DROP PYLONS #3

Ready for paint and installation. I used a 5/16" OD plastic tube cut in half for leading edge. The rear 1/4" x 3/16" spruce post will be glued to the rear of the main spar.