1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods
11-13-2003, 12:35 PM
#76
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RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods
Great Ideas everyone. I have a Top Flight Gold Edition kit still in the box. I am about ready to start construction and will follow the mods listed in this thread. I'll try to take plenty of photos of the construction and post them (especially the mods). I have been building RC aircraft since the mid 70's, and never dreamed of having this much information at my fingertips.
Alvin
Alvin
11-13-2003, 05:32 PM
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RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods
I am building the gold edition corsair.I have the wing sections built and joined.My next steps were going to be to mount the aileron servo, flap servos and retrects.What have been the best linkages for ailerons and flaps.Or has anyone used dual servos for both or just one servo for flaps and one servo for ailerons. Also does anyone know the progress on Sierras retracts.That seems to be my best bet for retracts from what I have read from you guys. I will be flying off a grass runway.I sounds like whether Century or robarts are used there is going to be a realiabilty or a craftmanship or lack there of problem.
11-13-2003, 07:19 PM
#78
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RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods
I have installed an aileron servo in each wing, accessible through hatches. If you opt for this set up make sure that you position your servos so that as one moves forward the other one will move back, else your ailerons will move in the same direction. About the Sierra retracts, there are supposed to be pics posted sometime soon of Darrell's finished product. Most of us are just waiting.
Gary
Gary
11-13-2003, 08:08 PM
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RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods
I'm in the same place (construction wise) as Alvin. Finding this string is like stumbling on a gold mine. I'm going to try to make my Corsair into an F4U-4 circa 1950 with VMF markings. Thanks to all who wrote.
Semper Fi
Dick
Semper Fi
Dick
11-15-2003, 01:39 AM
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RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods
I have been reluctant to build the Top Flite corsair, because frankly, I'm just not into building!
I came across a older model of a corsair from a company called GM Plastics that looks like a real nice kit. It has a 72" wingspan, ABS fuse with foam core wings. The outline looks scale and it would probably be a little easier to build, since there would be a minimal of sheeting. My concerns with this kit is that it is not retracts-ready and I'm not sure what to use for adhesive between the ABS and the wood. It came with the special adhesive for this kit but it has long since dried out. I'm thinking of going ahead with this corsair with the idea of making it a super-scale project, making mods along the way, such as those listed here and whichever ones come along during building. Has anyone heard of this kit? I think it was around in the 70's, and they made several other models according to the sales sheet included.
Jesse
I came across a older model of a corsair from a company called GM Plastics that looks like a real nice kit. It has a 72" wingspan, ABS fuse with foam core wings. The outline looks scale and it would probably be a little easier to build, since there would be a minimal of sheeting. My concerns with this kit is that it is not retracts-ready and I'm not sure what to use for adhesive between the ABS and the wood. It came with the special adhesive for this kit but it has long since dried out. I'm thinking of going ahead with this corsair with the idea of making it a super-scale project, making mods along the way, such as those listed here and whichever ones come along during building. Has anyone heard of this kit? I think it was around in the 70's, and they made several other models according to the sales sheet included.
Jesse
11-18-2003, 09:13 AM
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RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods
Advise needed.Do futaba s3004's have adequate torque for the control surfaces of the gold edition corsair?I am planning on using one for each aileron.Also will it be better to place the aileron servos in the center where the single servo would be placed?
11-18-2003, 06:14 PM
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RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods
For ailerons, the 3004's should be plenty. I would mount them outboard, near each aileron, with a short control rod directly from the servo to the aileron. That gives you instant response and a very short distance from servo to surface.
Jesse
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11-18-2003, 11:32 PM
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RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite <span class=
I've opened up my cowl into cowl flaps and I wondering about the proper cooling. The flaps are open a good bit; 1/4" all the way around on a cowl ring that was originally approx. 7" in diameter. I am using a slimline muffler and I each exhaust port exits through it's own 3/4" hole in the bottom of the cowl. Now, should open up those muff. openings into a square? I will probably resort to a TF replica engine unless I can find info on obtaining a more realistic one (but not too pricey!) Finally, will the intake air be efficient if I only remove one jug from the replica?
Gary
Gary
11-19-2003, 09:44 AM
#85
RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite <span class=
I’m, glad to here that so many of you are following these posts, I hope to meet up with some of you next summer and do some formation flying. Obviously, it won’t be at the Labor day (giant scale) warbird event in Muncie. Memorial Day at Terre Haute, IN is a definite possibility. So is the Henderson/ Robards, KY Sept. Fly-in, and CARDS (Lansing, MI area), South Bend, IN, and Wheeler, IN warbird fly-ins. I could also make the Evansville, IN July 4 weekend warbird fly-in, but I'm really not enthusiastic about that one anymore as it has transformed into a judged flying contest. It's not that I don't like the competition, it's because only one plane flies at a time during most of these events. I travel to fly with alongside/ with other warbirds, so I prefer the open flying type warbird events. If you have a Corsair and plan to attend ANY of those events, let me know and I'll make an extra effort to attend.
I did manage to attend 3 warbird fly-ins last summer (in addition to my own club’s: the ThunderBirds R/C club, which makes it 4). One of the things I noticed is that there are a lot of BIG warbirds out there. What surprises me though, is that even though my Top Flite Corsair was smaller than most of the other Corsairs that I saw, mine was more detailed (none of the others had machine guns and/ or exhaust stacks and/ or front landing gear doors) and authentic as far as markings go. I saw a large scale Pappy Boyington/ Lulubelle/ #86 Corsair which was only 2 color (med/ blue and lt/ blue instead of proper 3 color), AND had incorrect national insignia (lacked insignia blue background). I'm not bragging about mine, and I know there are far superior looking 1/8 scale Corsairs than mine (see Luke's Royal Corsair), I am just surprised that these guys with big buck and big planes don't take the time to make sure their planes look right/ scale. So, I want to remind everyone: DO SOME HOMEWORK. Buy a Squadron/ Signal book at the very least. Such a book costs less than $10, and will help educate you on proper marking and paint schemes. I am by no means the world’s leading authority on Corsairs. There are plenty of Corsair fanatics out there who are smarter than me, and they will KNOW if your paint scheme/ markings are incorrect without the aid of literature. And whether or not we say anything, our impression of the builder is that he(she?) knows very little about the aircraft he has modeled. And that is what what irks me: warbird pilots who know little or nothing about their aircraft. Regardless of building skills and/ or anything else, I have a lot more respect for a pilot that at least knows something about his aircraft, other than (in the case of the Corsair) it was a fast U.S. fighter plane that Pappy Boyington flew.
Anyone wishing to build their Corsair as an F4U-4 should remember to add the chin/ cowl airscoop.
As for functioning navigation lights, yes I have considered them but haven’t done it yet. I am leaving holes in my Wing Mfg. wing which would allow wires to run to the tips in the future, if I find the time/ ambition to complete such an installation.
Yes, the Futaba S3004s are adequate for this aircraft. In fact, they are what I use on mine. They are relatively light (1.3 oz each), inexpensive ballbearing servos which have more than enough torque. I even use them for my flaps (2 servos), however this may be pushing them to their limits. I certainly would not recommend the S3004 if you are using only one servo for Top Flite Corsair flaps. As for using 2 for the ailerons: it's six of one, half dozen of other. I have come to prefer the 2 servo setup (one servo per aileron) because it makes for an easier installation, easier adjustments, and probably adds very little weight (over the single servo setup) because of the long, bending linkage and bellcrank setup which would not be necessary with the 2 servo setup.
I pretty much covered all the questions regarding engine cooling in a previous post. As I said, I am by no means an expert, and suggest that if you have more questions regarding this matter, begin a new post. You will be able to access much more 'expert' advice that way. Make the title of your post as specific as possible. I for one do not read the vague and/ or teaser posts, I simply don't have that much time to waste.
I will add two things tho (about engine cooling): if you opened the cowl flaps up so that there is a 1/4" gap between flaps and fuselage, it may or may not be beneficial. If the gap is 1/4" at the end of the flaps, but 1/16" (or less) where the cowl is attached to the fuselage, then you have not gained anything. It's like a chain is no stronger than its weakest like: the gap will allow no more air to pass thru than the air that passes thru the narrowest gap. If on the other hand, you DO have at least 1/4" all the way thru the cowl flap area, then you should have sufficient area for air to exit without need of more exit areas.
The other thing is removal of dummy radial jugs: I like my aircraft to look as scale as reasonbly possible, but I am willing to make sacrifices if it means my engine will run better/ cooler/ more dependable. I have had my share of deadstick landings, and altho I have become somewhat comfortable with them, I prefer not to have to do them, especially with my Corsairs. I'm not saying that one cannot obtain depedabilty while removing only one jug, it is just that my preference has become removing two. Also, I think my setup still looks pretty good, even with 2 jugs removed (see pic in previous post). What I failed to mention is that I use aluminum tubing instead of painted plastic for the pushrod guides, they also blend well with Saito engine.
I did manage to attend 3 warbird fly-ins last summer (in addition to my own club’s: the ThunderBirds R/C club, which makes it 4). One of the things I noticed is that there are a lot of BIG warbirds out there. What surprises me though, is that even though my Top Flite Corsair was smaller than most of the other Corsairs that I saw, mine was more detailed (none of the others had machine guns and/ or exhaust stacks and/ or front landing gear doors) and authentic as far as markings go. I saw a large scale Pappy Boyington/ Lulubelle/ #86 Corsair which was only 2 color (med/ blue and lt/ blue instead of proper 3 color), AND had incorrect national insignia (lacked insignia blue background). I'm not bragging about mine, and I know there are far superior looking 1/8 scale Corsairs than mine (see Luke's Royal Corsair), I am just surprised that these guys with big buck and big planes don't take the time to make sure their planes look right/ scale. So, I want to remind everyone: DO SOME HOMEWORK. Buy a Squadron/ Signal book at the very least. Such a book costs less than $10, and will help educate you on proper marking and paint schemes. I am by no means the world’s leading authority on Corsairs. There are plenty of Corsair fanatics out there who are smarter than me, and they will KNOW if your paint scheme/ markings are incorrect without the aid of literature. And whether or not we say anything, our impression of the builder is that he(she?) knows very little about the aircraft he has modeled. And that is what what irks me: warbird pilots who know little or nothing about their aircraft. Regardless of building skills and/ or anything else, I have a lot more respect for a pilot that at least knows something about his aircraft, other than (in the case of the Corsair) it was a fast U.S. fighter plane that Pappy Boyington flew.
Anyone wishing to build their Corsair as an F4U-4 should remember to add the chin/ cowl airscoop.
As for functioning navigation lights, yes I have considered them but haven’t done it yet. I am leaving holes in my Wing Mfg. wing which would allow wires to run to the tips in the future, if I find the time/ ambition to complete such an installation.
Yes, the Futaba S3004s are adequate for this aircraft. In fact, they are what I use on mine. They are relatively light (1.3 oz each), inexpensive ballbearing servos which have more than enough torque. I even use them for my flaps (2 servos), however this may be pushing them to their limits. I certainly would not recommend the S3004 if you are using only one servo for Top Flite Corsair flaps. As for using 2 for the ailerons: it's six of one, half dozen of other. I have come to prefer the 2 servo setup (one servo per aileron) because it makes for an easier installation, easier adjustments, and probably adds very little weight (over the single servo setup) because of the long, bending linkage and bellcrank setup which would not be necessary with the 2 servo setup.
I pretty much covered all the questions regarding engine cooling in a previous post. As I said, I am by no means an expert, and suggest that if you have more questions regarding this matter, begin a new post. You will be able to access much more 'expert' advice that way. Make the title of your post as specific as possible. I for one do not read the vague and/ or teaser posts, I simply don't have that much time to waste.
I will add two things tho (about engine cooling): if you opened the cowl flaps up so that there is a 1/4" gap between flaps and fuselage, it may or may not be beneficial. If the gap is 1/4" at the end of the flaps, but 1/16" (or less) where the cowl is attached to the fuselage, then you have not gained anything. It's like a chain is no stronger than its weakest like: the gap will allow no more air to pass thru than the air that passes thru the narrowest gap. If on the other hand, you DO have at least 1/4" all the way thru the cowl flap area, then you should have sufficient area for air to exit without need of more exit areas.
The other thing is removal of dummy radial jugs: I like my aircraft to look as scale as reasonbly possible, but I am willing to make sacrifices if it means my engine will run better/ cooler/ more dependable. I have had my share of deadstick landings, and altho I have become somewhat comfortable with them, I prefer not to have to do them, especially with my Corsairs. I'm not saying that one cannot obtain depedabilty while removing only one jug, it is just that my preference has become removing two. Also, I think my setup still looks pretty good, even with 2 jugs removed (see pic in previous post). What I failed to mention is that I use aluminum tubing instead of painted plastic for the pushrod guides, they also blend well with Saito engine.
11-19-2003, 07:09 PM
#86
Six 50 Cal. Machine Guns Mod
Most early model Corsairs (F4U-1, F4U-1A, F4U-1D, and F4U-4) were armed six, .50 cal Browning machine guns. Some of the night fighter variants had the armament reduced to four .50 cal. Machine guns. Later models (F4U-4B on), as well as the F4U-1C were armed with four 20mm cannon. These mods will add simulated .50 cal machine guns to your 1/8 scale Corsair. If you are building a cannon armed version, these mods do not apply.
The first photo below shows a gun opening on a restored FG-1D (same as an F4U-1D) Corsair. Note that unlike many U.S. fighters of the day, the machine gun barrels are not visible, as they are completely buried inside the wings. Also note the ruler I am holding, to show approximate size, and the fact that these openings are rounded.
The second photo shows an opening on the bottom of the wing. There are three of these openings on the bottom of each wing: one for each machine gun. These openings are where the spent shells exit from as the guns are being fired. The approximate size of each opening is 6†x 2†(see me holding tape measure).
The last image is a 1/8 size drawing of the underside of the right wing, which shows the locations of the machine gun openings, and the shell ejector openings. There are many other details also, such as navigation lights, friend or foe identification lights, the leading edge spoiler (which was installed on the right wing only of F4U-1D and later models), and so on, but we will concern ourselves with only the machine guns for now. This is a very large drawing (about 14" x 22"), so it is unlikely you will be able to print it full size. It would be benifiial for you to copy it to a floppy, take it to a printing place, and have them make a full size copy. I really want to encourage anyone building a Top Flite Corsair to get a printed copy of this. This drawing will really show you how inaccuate the wing tips and ailerons are (especially the 'red box' ones), as you would be able to lay it over your Top Flight drawings to see the differences.
In case you are not able to print the wing drawing to its proper size, I obtained the following dimensions:
1) The centerline of the outermost gun opening is 17 1/8†from the wing tip.
2) The remaining gun openings are spaced 7/8†apart (centerline to centerline).
3) 1/8 scale size of the shell ejector slots is ¼†x ¾â€.
4) Each shell ejector slot has its innermost edge (closest to the fuselage) lined up with the centerline of the related gun opening. The outermost edge of each ejector slot is then ¼†closer to the wing tip.
5) The front of the outermost shell ejector slot has its front edge 6 ½†from the leading edge at the gun opening.
6) The rear edge of the middle shell ejector slot is lined up with the front of the outermost shell ejector slot.
7) The rear edge of the innermost shell ejector slot is lined up with the front of the center shell ejector slot.
The first photo below shows a gun opening on a restored FG-1D (same as an F4U-1D) Corsair. Note that unlike many U.S. fighters of the day, the machine gun barrels are not visible, as they are completely buried inside the wings. Also note the ruler I am holding, to show approximate size, and the fact that these openings are rounded.
The second photo shows an opening on the bottom of the wing. There are three of these openings on the bottom of each wing: one for each machine gun. These openings are where the spent shells exit from as the guns are being fired. The approximate size of each opening is 6†x 2†(see me holding tape measure).
The last image is a 1/8 size drawing of the underside of the right wing, which shows the locations of the machine gun openings, and the shell ejector openings. There are many other details also, such as navigation lights, friend or foe identification lights, the leading edge spoiler (which was installed on the right wing only of F4U-1D and later models), and so on, but we will concern ourselves with only the machine guns for now. This is a very large drawing (about 14" x 22"), so it is unlikely you will be able to print it full size. It would be benifiial for you to copy it to a floppy, take it to a printing place, and have them make a full size copy. I really want to encourage anyone building a Top Flite Corsair to get a printed copy of this. This drawing will really show you how inaccuate the wing tips and ailerons are (especially the 'red box' ones), as you would be able to lay it over your Top Flight drawings to see the differences.
In case you are not able to print the wing drawing to its proper size, I obtained the following dimensions:
1) The centerline of the outermost gun opening is 17 1/8†from the wing tip.
2) The remaining gun openings are spaced 7/8†apart (centerline to centerline).
3) 1/8 scale size of the shell ejector slots is ¼†x ¾â€.
4) Each shell ejector slot has its innermost edge (closest to the fuselage) lined up with the centerline of the related gun opening. The outermost edge of each ejector slot is then ¼†closer to the wing tip.
5) The front of the outermost shell ejector slot has its front edge 6 ½†from the leading edge at the gun opening.
6) The rear edge of the middle shell ejector slot is lined up with the front of the outermost shell ejector slot.
7) The rear edge of the innermost shell ejector slot is lined up with the front of the center shell ejector slot.
11-19-2003, 07:12 PM
#87
Six 50 Cal. Machine Guns Mod
These mods can be performed by simply removing material, nothing need to be added (except maybe some touch up paint or covering). Although I am using an un-completed Top Flite Corsair to show this mod, I have also performed this mod to a completed Top Flite Corsair, namely the one I have been flying this past summer.
The full scale machine gun openings are approximately 2†diameter, 1/8 that size is ¼â€, so machine gun openings should be about ¼ diameter. You can use a drill: a slow, battery operated one is recommended. I also recommend that smaller, pilot holes be drilled first to help maintain accuracy. After drilling, the edges need to be rounded and smoothed with sandpaper. Some of you may be concerned about weaking the leading edge by drilling these holes: this is not a high stress area, and most of the stress is absorbed by wing sheeting, so I don't see any problems (unless of course, the aircraft crashes, in which case this area could become a weak point). I have a combined total of 4 years/ over 400 flights of flying Top Flite Corsairs with this mod and have encountered no problems.
The task of making the machine gun holes look good/ well rounded is probably more easily accomplished if a set of vaccu-formed machine gun holes are installed. I designed such a set about a year ago, and made a few copies with my Mattle Vaccu-Form. Since that time, the long time kit making company Wing Manufacturing has been purchased by a fellow club member, and he is now making these sets. If you are interested, he sells them for $5 a set plus shipping. You will probably be able to pick them up at the upcoming Toledo show for that price (minus the shipping charge, of course). I can also supply you with a set for the same price if you are interested. I hope I am not breaking any RCUniverse rules by offering these for sale here. No one is going to make a living selling these, and certainly not me. I am offering them as a favor to those wishing to upgrade their 1/8 scale Corsair (any make) for a very modest price. I accept PayPal
The first picture shows my wing with 24†ruler palced along the spar line, wher I will measure the 17 1/8†from, and the next 7/8†and last 7/8â€.
The second picture shows my wing with all dimensions marked on it. Using a very sharp Xacto knife and a straight edge, I removed the balsa to create the openings. NOTE, I had intended to cover this area first with a layer of ½ oz. glass cloth to help keep the slots true and straight, but got in a hurry to finish so I didn’t. You may opt to do so. As an alternative to cutting holes in the wings, you could just use some flat black paint OR cut some pieces from flat black MonoKote and apply.
The full scale machine gun openings are approximately 2†diameter, 1/8 that size is ¼â€, so machine gun openings should be about ¼ diameter. You can use a drill: a slow, battery operated one is recommended. I also recommend that smaller, pilot holes be drilled first to help maintain accuracy. After drilling, the edges need to be rounded and smoothed with sandpaper. Some of you may be concerned about weaking the leading edge by drilling these holes: this is not a high stress area, and most of the stress is absorbed by wing sheeting, so I don't see any problems (unless of course, the aircraft crashes, in which case this area could become a weak point). I have a combined total of 4 years/ over 400 flights of flying Top Flite Corsairs with this mod and have encountered no problems.
The task of making the machine gun holes look good/ well rounded is probably more easily accomplished if a set of vaccu-formed machine gun holes are installed. I designed such a set about a year ago, and made a few copies with my Mattle Vaccu-Form. Since that time, the long time kit making company Wing Manufacturing has been purchased by a fellow club member, and he is now making these sets. If you are interested, he sells them for $5 a set plus shipping. You will probably be able to pick them up at the upcoming Toledo show for that price (minus the shipping charge, of course). I can also supply you with a set for the same price if you are interested. I hope I am not breaking any RCUniverse rules by offering these for sale here. No one is going to make a living selling these, and certainly not me. I am offering them as a favor to those wishing to upgrade their 1/8 scale Corsair (any make) for a very modest price. I accept PayPal
The first picture shows my wing with 24†ruler palced along the spar line, wher I will measure the 17 1/8†from, and the next 7/8†and last 7/8â€.
The second picture shows my wing with all dimensions marked on it. Using a very sharp Xacto knife and a straight edge, I removed the balsa to create the openings. NOTE, I had intended to cover this area first with a layer of ½ oz. glass cloth to help keep the slots true and straight, but got in a hurry to finish so I didn’t. You may opt to do so. As an alternative to cutting holes in the wings, you could just use some flat black paint OR cut some pieces from flat black MonoKote and apply.
11-19-2003, 07:14 PM
#88
Six 50 Cal. Machine Guns Mod
The first picture shows the machine gun openings. Actually, I eventually drilled them out to 9/32†so that the vaccu-formed pieces will fit easier. NOTE: as a fellow RCUniverse member pointed out to me awhile back, the guns appear to not follow the leading edge line (when looking at the front of the wing). In fact, they appear to get lower towards the tips. I think they are parallel to the top of the wing, which in turns makes them lower in relation to the bottom of the wing (because the wings tapers smaller as it gets closer to the tip).
Thanks Luke, for pointing that out to me.
I had placed the trimmed plastic pieces over the holes and marked outline of the piece so I will know where to remove 1/32" of balsa for good flush fit.
The second picture shows the gun opening area with about 1/32†of balsa removed, so that the plastic pieces will fit flush.
The third picture shows 2 set of vaccu-formed machine gun openings: the top set is as they look as they would be shipped, the bottom set has been trimmed of excess plastic and is the set I will be installing on my ‘red box’ Corsair wing as shown in these next post.
Thanks Luke, for pointing that out to me.
I had placed the trimmed plastic pieces over the holes and marked outline of the piece so I will know where to remove 1/32" of balsa for good flush fit.
The second picture shows the gun opening area with about 1/32†of balsa removed, so that the plastic pieces will fit flush.
The third picture shows 2 set of vaccu-formed machine gun openings: the top set is as they look as they would be shipped, the bottom set has been trimmed of excess plastic and is the set I will be installing on my ‘red box’ Corsair wing as shown in these next post.
11-19-2003, 07:18 PM
#89
Six 50 Cal. Machine Guns Mod
The first picture shows my wing with the gun openings installed and the ejector slots created. I attached them using thick CA. I will need to fill in some areas between the vaccu-formed pieces and the wing leading edge, and then paint. I may elect to open up the holes in the plastic at a later time, OR I will paint the ‘holes’ black before I paint the rest of the plastic Corsair Blue. This will make the holes darker than the rest of the Corsair Blue, and thus will appear to be genuine holes.
The second picture is of the set installed on my #167 Corsair, with the holes opened up. I have discovered that ‘things’ can/ will get into these holes, such as small bugs (no doubt from low passes over the runway) and debris. What ever gets in there will likely remain trapped in there, so I may leave them closed in future Corsairs such as this ‘red box’.
I am running out of ideas for Top Flite Corsair mods, so my next posts will concern Robart 615 landing gear mods and wheel choices.
I would like to add that I am considering another Corsair project with Wing Mfg: I want to make a mold for an F4U-1 (“BirdCageâ€) canopy and have Wing Mfg. mass produce them. They would probably sell for around $10 ~ $15. Anyone interested? OR, if anyone has such a mold already, lets make a deal!
The second picture is of the set installed on my #167 Corsair, with the holes opened up. I have discovered that ‘things’ can/ will get into these holes, such as small bugs (no doubt from low passes over the runway) and debris. What ever gets in there will likely remain trapped in there, so I may leave them closed in future Corsairs such as this ‘red box’.
I am running out of ideas for Top Flite Corsair mods, so my next posts will concern Robart 615 landing gear mods and wheel choices.
I would like to add that I am considering another Corsair project with Wing Mfg: I want to make a mold for an F4U-1 (“BirdCageâ€) canopy and have Wing Mfg. mass produce them. They would probably sell for around $10 ~ $15. Anyone interested? OR, if anyone has such a mold already, lets make a deal!
11-19-2003, 08:26 PM
#90
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RE: Six 50 Cal. Machine Guns Mod
Re: The F4-U4
The chin cowl shouldn't be a real problem, likewise the second set of exhaust ports. I think making a new canopy to include the bubble and the flat wind screen (mine wont be "bullet proof") will be my biggest chore. Any suggestions? On the other hand not all the 4s had the flat wind screen so I might be able to use part of the kit's canopy. I'll only use the 4-bladed prop for display purposes. I'm looking for whatever reference material I can find. I have a small set of 3 views and have ordered a book on the 4s through 7s. Hagesawa makes what looks like a nice 1/48 plastic kit and there's the Guillows 1/16 balsa kit but I don't know how "scale" it really is and don't want to spend $40 to find out.
Keep up the good work "JOCK".
Thanks
Semper Fi
Dick
The chin cowl shouldn't be a real problem, likewise the second set of exhaust ports. I think making a new canopy to include the bubble and the flat wind screen (mine wont be "bullet proof") will be my biggest chore. Any suggestions? On the other hand not all the 4s had the flat wind screen so I might be able to use part of the kit's canopy. I'll only use the 4-bladed prop for display purposes. I'm looking for whatever reference material I can find. I have a small set of 3 views and have ordered a book on the 4s through 7s. Hagesawa makes what looks like a nice 1/48 plastic kit and there's the Guillows 1/16 balsa kit but I don't know how "scale" it really is and don't want to spend $40 to find out.
Keep up the good work "JOCK".
Thanks
Semper Fi
Dick
11-20-2003, 09:34 PM
#91
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Middletown, CT
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RE: 2 piece/ 3 piece wings, engine baffling, retracts
Jim,
I have been building my TF Corsair and reading as much as I could here incorporating as much as possible. My biggest delemma is what size engine to use. I actually installed a Supertigre 61ABC engine and bought the TF Muffler. This looked great all concealed within the cowl. See the photo. However, the more I read, I felt that this would be under-powered. So I removed this engine and installed a OS120 pumped 4 stroke. I mounted it at 45 degrees inverted, but as expected, this is not within the cowl. I could live with this but it is the muffler that really takes away from the scale like appearence I was looking for. I have looked at the slimline pitts for the 120 but based on my measurements, this would not fit within the cowl.
I am now thinking that I should stay with the 61 or buy a 91 that can fit within the cowl. What do you think?
I have been building my TF Corsair and reading as much as I could here incorporating as much as possible. My biggest delemma is what size engine to use. I actually installed a Supertigre 61ABC engine and bought the TF Muffler. This looked great all concealed within the cowl. See the photo. However, the more I read, I felt that this would be under-powered. So I removed this engine and installed a OS120 pumped 4 stroke. I mounted it at 45 degrees inverted, but as expected, this is not within the cowl. I could live with this but it is the muffler that really takes away from the scale like appearence I was looking for. I have looked at the slimline pitts for the 120 but based on my measurements, this would not fit within the cowl.
I am now thinking that I should stay with the 61 or buy a 91 that can fit within the cowl. What do you think?
11-21-2003, 12:06 AM
#93
Join Date: Feb 2002
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RE: Six 50 Cal. Machine Guns Mod
Regarding machine guns...
I did the machine gun thing similar to CorsairJocks method. But I did mine after the Corsair had already been painted. My guess for the diameter of the turret holes was a little to big, 3/8". I didn't drill all the way through, and just painted the inside of the hole black. Becuase the model was already finished, I couldn't smooth out the holes or add the panel line "ring" around the holes. But I did epoxy tiny sections of 1/8" aluminum pipe as the machine gun turrets. I think 1/16" or 3/32" aluminum pipe would have been more scale, but I had scrap pieces of 1/8" so I used it.
The first picture is of the full size machine guns. I took this picture and I could only see the turret if I look straight down the barrel. As you can see from the picture, you can only see one turret at a time. The second picture is of my turrets. I didn't recess my aluminum tube enough. As you can see, all three turrets are visible at the same time. But overall, I like the effect even if it very exaggerated.
The third picture is of the empty shell holes... Just like CorsairJocks.
Regarding engine choice
Put in a second vote for the RCV90. In the fourth picture, I also have an RCV90 under that cowl. Nothing sticks out the right side of the cowl either. The only hole in that cowl will be a tiny one on to to adjust the high end needle. It'll be just big enough to stick an allen wrench into it. My exhaust goes through the firewall and out to the scale location (only one functional exhaust pipe, not 6 like Luke's).
Juice.
I did the machine gun thing similar to CorsairJocks method. But I did mine after the Corsair had already been painted. My guess for the diameter of the turret holes was a little to big, 3/8". I didn't drill all the way through, and just painted the inside of the hole black. Becuase the model was already finished, I couldn't smooth out the holes or add the panel line "ring" around the holes. But I did epoxy tiny sections of 1/8" aluminum pipe as the machine gun turrets. I think 1/16" or 3/32" aluminum pipe would have been more scale, but I had scrap pieces of 1/8" so I used it.
The first picture is of the full size machine guns. I took this picture and I could only see the turret if I look straight down the barrel. As you can see from the picture, you can only see one turret at a time. The second picture is of my turrets. I didn't recess my aluminum tube enough. As you can see, all three turrets are visible at the same time. But overall, I like the effect even if it very exaggerated.
The third picture is of the empty shell holes... Just like CorsairJocks.
Regarding engine choice
Put in a second vote for the RCV90. In the fourth picture, I also have an RCV90 under that cowl. Nothing sticks out the right side of the cowl either. The only hole in that cowl will be a tiny one on to to adjust the high end needle. It'll be just big enough to stick an allen wrench into it. My exhaust goes through the firewall and out to the scale location (only one functional exhaust pipe, not 6 like Luke's).
Juice.
11-21-2003, 07:27 AM
#94
My Feedback: (2)
RE: Six 50 Cal. Machine Guns Mod
RC FLYER 2,
I used a ST .90 with a Slimline large volumn pitts muffler in mine and was total concelled inside the cowl. Just a proper sized cut out at the bottom, about 2" sq for exhuast air. Worked fine. The ST.90 was so good, I didnt bother extending the needle valve out the cowl. The only hole I had (other than exhuast air) was the glow plug hole. Just make sure you use the baffle. Its a must. The ST.90 with that muffler was the perfect match on my corsair. Sounded great on a low fly by and a good power match.
Edwin
I used a ST .90 with a Slimline large volumn pitts muffler in mine and was total concelled inside the cowl. Just a proper sized cut out at the bottom, about 2" sq for exhuast air. Worked fine. The ST.90 was so good, I didnt bother extending the needle valve out the cowl. The only hole I had (other than exhuast air) was the glow plug hole. Just make sure you use the baffle. Its a must. The ST.90 with that muffler was the perfect match on my corsair. Sounded great on a low fly by and a good power match.
Edwin
11-21-2003, 10:10 AM
#95
Engine choices
This isn't really the right place for an engine choice discussion. These posts are intended to present hard facts on the scale inaccuracies and lack of detail in Top Flite 1/8 Corsair kits, and ways to correct them. Engine choice is just that; a choice/ option/ no correct answer. Everyone has their own preferences as to how much power they feel they need/ want, how much money they can spend on it, what it looks and sounds like, etc. It's about like asking a stranger who you should marry. Ask 20 people, they will give you 20 different answers, and each answer will be probably who the stranger would like to marry. I think it would be better to pose such a question as a new topic, then you could get maybe 100 answers.
BUT, since you have asked, I'll offer some suggestions. First tho, anyone who has read these posts should know that my #167 Corsair ( see in my "Gallery" ) powered by a Saito .72GK swinging a Master Airscrew 3 blade 12 x 6 prop. I am very satisfied with this combination. Others would not be. It flies my 8 lb., 10 oz retracts and flaps equipped Corsair in a very scale like manner. It is not a skyrocket, but neither is the full scale. It won't hover, but it doesn't have a hugh torque roll tendency either (more power equals more torque roll effect), AND, once again, it's gold plated valve covers are about flush with the scale yellow painted cowl front, and it blends in rather nicely.
There are at least 3 other choices by readers offered so far (each different). Altho the Saito. 72, and YS .63 work for me, they may not for the next person. AND, the RCVs appeal to me as well, I would love to be able to swing that Master Airscrew 3 blade 16 x 10 on a Top Flight Corsair. But I haven't tried one yet
There are many variables which should affect engine choice: biggest one is final wieght. Mine is under 9 lbs, like many that are if they are MonoKoted. If it were over 9 lbs, I feel my engine choices should be bigger. If you decide to 'glass and paint yours, it could end up in the 12 lb range (as I have seen several that have). So, in summary, the more it weighs, the more power it needs. Next is weather: just like the full scale version, a hotter and/ or more humid climate requires more power than ones flown in milder climates. If you routinley fly when the temp is 90 or above, you need more power. Lastly is your choice/ how you want to fly it/ how you want it to fly you. If you want leap off the carrier deck takeoffs (be really ready on that rudder), then more power. Keep in mind the sizes that Top Flight recommends, I don't think they want you have an underpowerd aircraft as it would not make thier product look good. Also keep in mind the RCU member who recently told of his Saito 1.50 literally pulling itself off the firewall of his H-9 AT-6 during flight. The recommended engine range for 4 strokes on his plane is .65 ~ 1.00. I have seen those Saito 1.00s in action and cannot figure out why anyone would want more power than that on anything that weighs under 10 lbs (H-9 AT-6 is advertised at 7.0 ~ 8.5 lb). Unless of course, they want to hover with it. Ever see a full scale AT-6 hover?
OK, you got me started, and I've said enough (well, maybe too much). Think about how you want to fly it, take a good guess at to how much it will wiegh when completed, and make your choice. They are many good choices, a decision needs to be based on many things. If you DO decide to start another topic, you should be as specific as possible on on these things. I'll add this tho: If you have decided that having a 4 stroke engine which is completely inside the cowl is your biggest criteria, then I don't see any other choice than an RCV.
Otherwise, this question may be a way to keep these posts near the top while I conjur up the next mod.
JUICE: Thanks for the pictures, OK if I 'steal' the one of Marine's Dream wing? Very nice pic, showing the right wing 'spoiler' as well. Also: nice job on your Corsair. I noticed those 3 round things on the botom between the sets of exhaust stacks. I have seen them on full scales and they show up on my D&B drawings as well. Any idea what they are/ what their purpose is? I might do a mod showing them, but I would like to know what they are first. My guess is something to do with engine starting.
BUT, since you have asked, I'll offer some suggestions. First tho, anyone who has read these posts should know that my #167 Corsair ( see in my "Gallery" ) powered by a Saito .72GK swinging a Master Airscrew 3 blade 12 x 6 prop. I am very satisfied with this combination. Others would not be. It flies my 8 lb., 10 oz retracts and flaps equipped Corsair in a very scale like manner. It is not a skyrocket, but neither is the full scale. It won't hover, but it doesn't have a hugh torque roll tendency either (more power equals more torque roll effect), AND, once again, it's gold plated valve covers are about flush with the scale yellow painted cowl front, and it blends in rather nicely.
There are at least 3 other choices by readers offered so far (each different). Altho the Saito. 72, and YS .63 work for me, they may not for the next person. AND, the RCVs appeal to me as well, I would love to be able to swing that Master Airscrew 3 blade 16 x 10 on a Top Flight Corsair. But I haven't tried one yet
There are many variables which should affect engine choice: biggest one is final wieght. Mine is under 9 lbs, like many that are if they are MonoKoted. If it were over 9 lbs, I feel my engine choices should be bigger. If you decide to 'glass and paint yours, it could end up in the 12 lb range (as I have seen several that have). So, in summary, the more it weighs, the more power it needs. Next is weather: just like the full scale version, a hotter and/ or more humid climate requires more power than ones flown in milder climates. If you routinley fly when the temp is 90 or above, you need more power. Lastly is your choice/ how you want to fly it/ how you want it to fly you. If you want leap off the carrier deck takeoffs (be really ready on that rudder), then more power. Keep in mind the sizes that Top Flight recommends, I don't think they want you have an underpowerd aircraft as it would not make thier product look good. Also keep in mind the RCU member who recently told of his Saito 1.50 literally pulling itself off the firewall of his H-9 AT-6 during flight. The recommended engine range for 4 strokes on his plane is .65 ~ 1.00. I have seen those Saito 1.00s in action and cannot figure out why anyone would want more power than that on anything that weighs under 10 lbs (H-9 AT-6 is advertised at 7.0 ~ 8.5 lb). Unless of course, they want to hover with it. Ever see a full scale AT-6 hover?
OK, you got me started, and I've said enough (well, maybe too much). Think about how you want to fly it, take a good guess at to how much it will wiegh when completed, and make your choice. They are many good choices, a decision needs to be based on many things. If you DO decide to start another topic, you should be as specific as possible on on these things. I'll add this tho: If you have decided that having a 4 stroke engine which is completely inside the cowl is your biggest criteria, then I don't see any other choice than an RCV.
Otherwise, this question may be a way to keep these posts near the top while I conjur up the next mod.
JUICE: Thanks for the pictures, OK if I 'steal' the one of Marine's Dream wing? Very nice pic, showing the right wing 'spoiler' as well. Also: nice job on your Corsair. I noticed those 3 round things on the botom between the sets of exhaust stacks. I have seen them on full scales and they show up on my D&B drawings as well. Any idea what they are/ what their purpose is? I might do a mod showing them, but I would like to know what they are first. My guess is something to do with engine starting.
11-21-2003, 01:57 PM
#96
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RE: Engine choices
I don't know what those three things are either. On my Corsair they are (1) Fuel fill/empty, (2) Fuel overflow, (3) Engine crankcase vent (because the RCV is a 4 stroke engine). It was the perfect place to put these RC necessities, without cluttering any surfaces with unscale items.
11-21-2003, 02:21 PM
#97
Senior Member
My Feedback: (13)
RE: Juice's Finish
I am new to scale building and am just curious what finish you used on your Corsair. It is truly beautiful.
I have built numerous planes, but to date, I have not taken the time to do the full scale treatment. I just obtained a Gold Edition Corsair and I plan on using most of the mods in this post.
I am also very impressed by your gear door set-up and would appreciate some info on this as well.
Thanks for the time,
Todd
I have built numerous planes, but to date, I have not taken the time to do the full scale treatment. I just obtained a Gold Edition Corsair and I plan on using most of the mods in this post.
I am also very impressed by your gear door set-up and would appreciate some info on this as well.
Thanks for the time,
Todd
11-21-2003, 04:31 PM
#98
RE: Juice's Finish
JUICE: Great Job of making necessary non-scale items appear in a scale manner. Maybe you could provide more info/ pictures?
cap10fan: I finished mine with MonoKote, Major Decals U.S. WW II national insignias, and some white Coverite trim pieces to make large "167" & arrows. My gear doors were pretty well covered in a previous post in this topic. Perhaps you are refering to the doors on JUICE's Corsair? If so, I'll let him handle it.
Also, I want to put some things into perspective: The mods I am describing in these posts are not likely to win any seroius scale contests. They are for the most part simple to do, inexpensive, and not very time consuming. They WILL make you aircraft appear much more scale than a Top Flite kit built according to Top Flite plans/ instructions. There are those among us who have more time and money for working on detailings and paint jobs. As I stated in my opening post, I don't have near enough free time due primarily to my full time job. And, when I do have free time, I want to FLY my Corsair, not take a year to build it and admire it. My #167 was started about the same time as another builder was starting his Royal 1/8 scale Corsair (about 1 year ago). I now have a full summer of flying mine, despite my lack of free time, while the Royal Corsair has not flown yet. To the credit of the Royal Corsair builder, it is an absolutely fabulous looking aircraft, and it is difficult to even imagine that a better looking one could be built than his. So what I am saying is: to each his own. If you want a model that will beat tho socks off everything else in a scale competion, than these posts aren't for you. If you want an aircraft that you can fly at your local club field every weekend, and can be built in a few months, and will be much better looking and scale than the typical Top Flite Corsair, than these mods are for you.
The follwing was added after the post by Luke (next post):
I stand corrected: the Royal Corsair project was started in March 2003, NOT a year ago as I had thought and stated, which means that Luke's project his completed in considerably less time than I alledged.
cap10fan: I finished mine with MonoKote, Major Decals U.S. WW II national insignias, and some white Coverite trim pieces to make large "167" & arrows. My gear doors were pretty well covered in a previous post in this topic. Perhaps you are refering to the doors on JUICE's Corsair? If so, I'll let him handle it.
Also, I want to put some things into perspective: The mods I am describing in these posts are not likely to win any seroius scale contests. They are for the most part simple to do, inexpensive, and not very time consuming. They WILL make you aircraft appear much more scale than a Top Flite kit built according to Top Flite plans/ instructions. There are those among us who have more time and money for working on detailings and paint jobs. As I stated in my opening post, I don't have near enough free time due primarily to my full time job. And, when I do have free time, I want to FLY my Corsair, not take a year to build it and admire it. My #167 was started about the same time as another builder was starting his Royal 1/8 scale Corsair (about 1 year ago). I now have a full summer of flying mine, despite my lack of free time, while the Royal Corsair has not flown yet. To the credit of the Royal Corsair builder, it is an absolutely fabulous looking aircraft, and it is difficult to even imagine that a better looking one could be built than his. So what I am saying is: to each his own. If you want a model that will beat tho socks off everything else in a scale competion, than these posts aren't for you. If you want an aircraft that you can fly at your local club field every weekend, and can be built in a few months, and will be much better looking and scale than the typical Top Flite Corsair, than these mods are for you.
The follwing was added after the post by Luke (next post):
I stand corrected: the Royal Corsair project was started in March 2003, NOT a year ago as I had thought and stated, which means that Luke's project his completed in considerably less time than I alledged.
11-21-2003, 09:59 PM
#99
RE: Juice's Finish
. My #167 was started about the same time as another builder was starting his Royal 1/8 scale Corsair (about 1 year ago). I now have a full summer of flying mine, despite my lack of free time, while the Royal Corsair has not flown yet.
Luke
11-24-2003, 09:42 AM
#100
Senior Member
My Feedback: (13)
RE: Juice's Finish
I'm sorry, My questions were directed to Juice. I should have been more clear. I understand that I will definitely not be building a show winner, but I would sure like to do a job beyond stock.
I have heated, stretched and shrunk more monocote than I would care to be associated with. I am just looking to expand my stable of finishing techniques. I think the finish on Juices bird would suit me quite well. I like the weathered look he has accomplished.
Thanks again,
Todd
I have heated, stretched and shrunk more monocote than I would care to be associated with. I am just looking to expand my stable of finishing techniques. I think the finish on Juices bird would suit me quite well. I like the weathered look he has accomplished.
Thanks again,
Todd