1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods
#1451
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (90)
RE: Rudder Mod
ORIGINAL: Sniper68
................Now working on the elevators and rudder, why the holes as shown in your example? Also, never worked with carbon fiber, what thickness did you use. I would like to buy the same. .........Thanks
................Now working on the elevators and rudder, why the holes as shown in your example? Also, never worked with carbon fiber, what thickness did you use. I would like to buy the same. .........Thanks
As for carbon fiber: .007 (inch?) is a number that jumps out at me. I used to get strips about 1/4" wide from Hobby Lobby, way back when carbon fiber stuff was hard to find, and I think that was the size. It needs to be thin, so that it blends in somewaht with the rest of the rudder.
#1452
RE: Rudder Mod
Hello Gents,
My Corsair finally got it's maiden flight! Iput a small video camera on the dash where the gunsight would be.
Chad Veichdid the test flying. Hesaid that it needed very little trim and flew great.
Please check out the video here:
http://youtu.be/bR1NmoOPLg8
My Corsair finally got it's maiden flight! Iput a small video camera on the dash where the gunsight would be.
Chad Veichdid the test flying. Hesaid that it needed very little trim and flew great.
Please check out the video here:
http://youtu.be/bR1NmoOPLg8
#1457
RE: Rudder Mod
To anyone out there building one of these, I would suggest throwing the stock (plastic) cowl in the trash and get a fiberglass cowl.
I went through the trouble of trying the stock one and it cracks very easily.
I went through the trouble of trying the stock one and it cracks very easily.
#1458
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (90)
RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods
ORIGINAL: budmo
To anyone out there building one of these, I would suggest throwing the stock (plastic) cowl in the trash and get a fiberglass cowl.
I went through the trouble of trying the stock one and it cracks very easily.
To anyone out there building one of these, I would suggest throwing the stock (plastic) cowl in the trash and get a fiberglass cowl.
I went through the trouble of trying the stock one and it cracks very easily.
ORIGINAL: I-fly-any-and-all
What! when did wing manufacturing close???
What! when did wing manufacturing close???
#1462
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Cedar City, Utah CA
Posts: 39
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RE: Rudder Mod
without too much, its not about attitude.. we who use this as information would love to not weed through 1000s of post not related to this post to get the info you really need. that is the point. As stated up front this is for 60 sized aircraft..
#1463
RE: Rudder Mod
Ice, many of us have .60 size AND giant scale and found the mention of Dbalsa to be useful. That one post was much more useful than your last TWO posts that we now have to "weed through"! Cheers
#1464
RE: Rudder Mod
Well after a few life altering events, i've managed to get the Corsair glassed. The fuselage is finished being painted with the exception of canopy, elevator and rudder. Just primered the wing tonight and will be working on it when I can. Heres a few pics, hopefully their not big as I see em on my computer.
#1467
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Victoria,
MN
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RE: Rudder Mod
ORIGINAL: budmo
To anyone out there building one of these, I would suggest throwing the stock (plastic) cowl in the trash and get a fiberglass cowl.
I went through the trouble of trying the stock one and it cracks very easily.
To anyone out there building one of these, I would suggest throwing the stock (plastic) cowl in the trash and get a fiberglass cowl.
I went through the trouble of trying the stock one and it cracks very easily.
#1468
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Lincoln, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 36
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RE: Rudder Mod
It's been a while since anyone has contributed to this thread but hopefully people still review it.
I have a question for SMUGator regarding the Cowl Baffle you detailed in Post #963. Did it provide enough cooling and, if so, what angle was it at?
Gravity's a Myth - The Earth Sucks
I have a question for SMUGator regarding the Cowl Baffle you detailed in Post #963. Did it provide enough cooling and, if so, what angle was it at?
Gravity's a Myth - The Earth Sucks
#1470
It seems like this thread has died down. Well I finally located screws long enough to install my flaps and ailerons. All that's left to do is paint the servo doors and start the motor. I'm hoping by next week if not the week after (depending on work schedule) that I'll get the maiden flight in. So far here's what my Corsair looks like
#1471
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (90)
It seems like this thread has died down. Well I finally located screws long enough to install my flaps and ailerons. All that's left to do is paint the servo doors and start the motor. I'm hoping by next week if not the week after (depending on work schedule) that I'll get the maiden flight in. So far here's what my Corsair looks
#1472
Yea I already added shims after the photos where taken. All I've done with the kit is added retractable tail wheel and flaps. I started this project over two years ago. About 6 months ago I was able to get back to it. I wasn't really looking into too many mods due to I have the TopFlite Zero and a giant scale P51 that I wanna put more $$ into and build next.
#1473
I just started working on mine and am to the center section of the build. I already did the tail feathers, too late though found out the "scale" hinging on the plans was on the wing sheet, and not on the fuse sheet where you would think they would put SOME details! Was some what impressed at the start of the build, then as I got into it, and found some important detail missing, such as a cross section of the rudder top to bottom, and the aforementioned hinge detail.
Now I have another piece of missing information, the Well Doublers! Step 13 says to slide them into place, but do not glue yet. I have yet to find out when they should be glued in.
One a side note, glad i found this thread since I am nearly to the point to build the wing tips, and the scale reference to how the tip blocks should be shaped will be very helpful. Going to use Robart hinge pins for everything as I like them better than the CA hinges, already have the tail hinged up and moving nicely, but going to revisit the shape of the tail, and modify it if I can.
This one will be flown with a YS FZ110 and 3 blade prop, but haven't decided on which retracts to use, there is a set of Electrics I am thinking about, as I would like to not use Robarts air operated, I have them setup on a 60 P-51 and found them to be a PITA. http://www.wingspanretracts.com/LGR630T
Now I have another piece of missing information, the Well Doublers! Step 13 says to slide them into place, but do not glue yet. I have yet to find out when they should be glued in.
One a side note, glad i found this thread since I am nearly to the point to build the wing tips, and the scale reference to how the tip blocks should be shaped will be very helpful. Going to use Robart hinge pins for everything as I like them better than the CA hinges, already have the tail hinged up and moving nicely, but going to revisit the shape of the tail, and modify it if I can.
This one will be flown with a YS FZ110 and 3 blade prop, but haven't decided on which retracts to use, there is a set of Electrics I am thinking about, as I would like to not use Robarts air operated, I have them setup on a 60 P-51 and found them to be a PITA. http://www.wingspanretracts.com/LGR630T
#1474
Downloaded the latest version of the manual and found when to glue in the Well Doublers. Nice how not only did they mess up two sections of the plans, they also left out some useful information from the manual.
On a side note, going with Century jet retracts for this.
On a side note, going with Century jet retracts for this.
#1475
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (90)
If you haven't covered the tail feathers yet, you can still modify the rudder/ give it a more correct outline. The rudder and the wingtips are easily the 2 biggest eyesores with the Top Flite kits. Anyone who has been to full scale airshows as much as I have can easily spot the inaccuracies of those 2 items. The rudder is especially easy to correct.