LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

Kwik, by "Last" you mean "newest" I assume? Yes, the carbs on some of these Saitos apparently have an air bubble problem in the metering area. Something I'd like to avoid. Of course, your Saito 57 was previous to the one with the heat sink and better carb. I kinda like the heavy mounting area on yours. I guess the newer standoffs are just as good.

It was hard to tell exactly how bad the fuse was in the pic. I prolly wouldn't rebuild it, but a guy at our field would! He's crashed and rebuilt some that I thought were beyond hope.

kwik

Hehe. Yes, but mine is in RC heaven by now. Gotta have a new one.

mmflytie

My Feedback: (1)

LBJ:
I hope you dont mind if I add my 2 cents worth here along with first hand experience. I did my bay doors exactly as you have. They look great by the way( and so did mine) I even have a sequencing module from down and locked that was really cool to watch.....on the ground! From day one, I started having issues with the wheels retracting properly. I would land and makes some adjustments or even try flying inverted while retracting gears( usually just broke the bay door and it hung down in the breeze , till I could fix it at home). Bottom line is that no matter how great they look and perform on the ground, once in the air moving at 30 to 40 mph, the wind does untold things to those great doors and its one headache after another. I love scale , but after a while , I just wanted to fly without putting up with stuck landing gears etc, so i took my doors off( not to mention how many servos I burned up trying to get the opening and closing distances correct!!!!) Now , no worries and wheels go up. Once its up in the air , I don't suppose anyone really notices, but I know , and I wish I had a reliable solution , but I dont. But , hey , you got them on and maybe you will have better luck than I did.!
Just my experience
Marc

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

Marc, I agree on the doors. My usual comment is that they cannot be seen inflight if they aren't there! haha. But, one Corsair guy was kidding me on not having them, so, I thought I'd try it once. They will need some thin plywood stiffeners across the doors to help keep them as rigid as can be. One of the guys has an Aeroworks P-51D with the sequencing doors. Well, he had them until he got tired of monkeying with them and took the whole mess off. If these don't work properly, I will make the square wheelwell a circular wheelwell with no doors! I was amazed at how relatively easy they were to mechanize. No problem on the post, not my thread, and I am just keeping this thread going until someone else adds their inputs. I will say, another electric guy has a new door sequencer from Hobby King that seems to work. It's just a small circuit board. I guess the retract servo plugs into that along with the door servos. It is somehow programmable from there. I think it would be much more cool to have the doors open only during transition and closed otherwise. That's a P-51 thing, but not sure why the F4U kept theirs down with gear down.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

I planned on doing the same thing to my esm 75" Corsair useing the esm 3.5 retracts and FMS door sequencer that was made for the 1700 mm FMS corsair . On the eflight epo Planes in the 67" size , the gear doors are problem free , I can only think they are because there thick plastic and virtually seemless ??? Realy dont know why they work but on my smaller Corsair going on three years , again it may be a result of less speed /stress but its all relavant to the size of the plane.

I did see a more complex wire spring set up (no servos) doors are spring loaded to stay open , and when the retract closes it trips a cross bar pulling both doors shut , no servos and very tight seemless set up

BJ64

I've read lots of good things about the HK electric sequencer - still to try one myself yet.

If burning up servos is an issue, could one not use a MultiBox for the wheel servos (instead of flaps) to set the end-points corretly?

Just a thought...

BJ

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

BJ64, I'm thinking the Match Box by JR is the same thing as a MultiBox? I've used them on several planes due to Spektrum not liking reversing Y-Cables. But, one thing I was considering is the Newest Spektrum 18 channel Tx that supposedly allows all the settings that the Matchbox accomplished. I am still trying to research this matter. The Matchbox setup is great, but cost $110 for two. I could plug all 4 door servos into one MatchBox and set them exactly to what is needed. No burnt out servos or over torqued doors. But, the MatchBox and retract servo would then need to plug into the sequencer which gets plugged into the Rx. Wow, gets complicated.

mmflytie

My Feedback: (1)

LDM,
I would like to see that spring set up. THat is really what is needed to hold the doors open against the wind but to get them closed would require a trip bar or something allowing them to move about 110 degrees( thats a lot considering the wheel has to get out of the way first and the wheel is probably what triggers the closure

Marc

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

I thought I had seen someone on this thread that installed a Roto 85FS twin. I've looked thru, but haven't seen it. As I recall, the rocker covers exited the cowl. Anyone seen that one?

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

Top Flite Corsair .60 landing gear door actuators - YouTube
► 0:09► 0:09
www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6TrNehcw7w
Feb 1, 2011 - Uploaded by John West
Top Flite Corsair .60 landing gear door actuators. ... F4U Corsair "Whistling Death " Flight Demonstration !by octane130 2,156,872 views · 41:06
This same method was used on the 1/5 scale Top flight corsair

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

Finally got around to the maiden for the corsair. This build for me took way longer than scheduled due to needed a new radio for the setup. I wanted it to take place last friday but thankfully it didn't it would've been the beginning of the end. While I was preparing to pack up to head to the field I was doing last minute radio programing. While adjusting my elevator dual rates the right elevator servo goes up in smoke. After an intense disassembly of the elevator I realized not only had the servo fried but the darn servo horn was missing a screw!!!!! The warbird gods were looking over me. After a visit to my LHS I replacing the servo I was back in business. I decided to just go through the plane and wait til tis week to do the maiden. 2 Clicks of up elevate and a click of left aileron she was flying straight as an arrow.

Don't mind the shaky video. My buddy was as nervous as I was while he taped it. I had to edit out his "BLUE SKY CAMEOS"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73dhdIW1JXA

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

midastouch_73, Nice maiden flight! Wow, mine are usually about 4 minutes and then land so I can sit down. haha. Good job. That 111 was hardly working, just mid range, I bet. Very nice. LBJ

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

Lol I. I normally try not to stay up long but my adrenaline was going. It was hard to bring her down after waiting so long for that day to come lol.... Two of my gear door servos took a crap on me. I'm swapping then out now for something a bit more reliable. I was using hexitronix 900 but I'm going with some hitec hs82mgs. Also gotta work on the dummy radial... thanks to all the guys for all of your post they've been really helpful...

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

Midastouch73, I watched your video again today, and am starting to like the idea of the DLE-111. VaLLEY VIEW HAS THEM ON SALE NOW FOR $629 DELIVERED (Till Sept 15). As cool as the 4 stroke, 2 and 3 cylinder gassers are, now that I am without an engine, I like the power of the 111.

Any comments one way or the other? Good and/or bad?

I am told I can change out the plugs to shorter more compact units to save room inside the cowl. Of course, the complete ignition module would be changed out to match the new shortie plugs. This might allow the whole engine inside the cowl. Dollar for dollar, the 111 is a great option. LBJ

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

LBJ.... ( THE GOOD) I'm totally happy with the decision of going with the DLE 111. I wasn't sure if it could be done until I saw "STOAT" (RIP) pull it off. I'm a BIG ENGINE GUY and an adrenaline junkie. I hear people talking about flying scale..... They're speaking french to me because I don't know what that is. lol I Look at it like this. Every warbird I've built needed nose weight. Why not use bigger engines to make up that weight. Not to mention I'd rather have ponies under the cowl sleeping than on the shelf at the LHS. These engines aren't necessarily cheap so why not get the most bang for your buck. It's easier to throttle back than buy another engine. All the talk about wing loaded, yeah I hear it but I think guys flying aerobatic plans are more concerned with that. That's just my .2 cents.


(THE BAD) I'd say cutting the cowl.... I'm over it now and I like having easy access to the carb without removing the entire cowl due to it's location. The tricky thing was to mount the needed nose weight. I didn't wan't to mount lead in my cowl. I was able to make a mount that bolts to the engines topside bolts and sits as far forward as possible without touching the dummy radial.... I just had to buy longer engine bolts and make the mount. If you decide to do it I'd be glad to give you some of the same bolts and make you a mount. I still have some of the metal stock...

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

Wow! That's some lead pile there. Gosh. How much did you have to add?

I like the idea of not having to remove the whole cowl, just a hatch.

Haven't committed to the 111 yet, but it may be the best way to go.

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

I actually removed some off that. I barely added 3 lbs, screws and mounting plate included. That's about what everyone added or a bit less due to their battery location. I didn't put my batteries (1 LIFE 3200 for servos and wike ignition and 1 5 cell receiver pack for the smoke pump) in the engine tube like others did. I put my batteries under my fuel tank platform. In addition I put a larger fuel tank and smoke setup on board. I removed 1 of the flat pieces and one of the top pieces of lead that are shown. After rechecking the cg before removing that it was too nose heavy. Its perfect now with the pilot installed. It flew pretty level inverted. I'm happy with. I broke my tailwheel last flight. Good thing the robart strut fit the esm tailwheel too.

mmflytie

My Feedback: (1)

Funny! but my robart tailwheel failed on Thurs!!! The strut arm going up into spring area is forked and the metal fatiqued and just collapsed. I hope I can just buy that part

Marc

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

This is the part I ordered from robart... it's for the 160 tailwheel

1 - [160103A] 160103A Plunger Assembly @ $16.50

kwik

I bought a new ESM 50cc Corsair to replace the chrashed one;



Bought it on a flyin called Warbird Weekend in Trondheim . And yes, bought a Top Flite Fw-190 too.

I will put an Saito FG-57 into both.

It will be interesting to compare the two sets. I will put them together without making too much fuzz about it;

Will not use too much time on details and stuff, just get them up in the air.

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

That a boy.... that's how you get back on the horse and keep riding.....

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

Does anyone have any gear doors? I've managed to somehow loose one of mine before even installing them....

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

Midastouch73, i can trace a set on cardboard for you to make some. Still have them loose and handy to trace. No problem.

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

That would be great...

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

You can e-mail me or p-mail me with your snail mail address, and I'll get them in the mail. LBJ

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