wind junkie

My Feedback: (1)

I go out of my way to avoid ethanol mixes. Ethanol is bad for your lines and carb parts-- esp for long periods of time.

We have "Nice N Easy" Grocery Shoppes convenient gas/marts around here and "Fasttrac" which offer non-ethanol gas. The Nice n Easy is high octane and favored by local hod rodders in our area. You might be able to find one on this list:

http://pure-gas.org/

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

That's pretty much what we have here. Some rural areas have leaded gas, or used to, for older farm equipment that ran on that. Hard to say these days as to what's out in the "sticks" (farming areas). ha. Run the best gas you can afford. But, 91 octane sounds good. The only possible drawback on running 32:1 mixture is the greater buildup of carbon with more oil content. But, on a new engine, one or two gallons of 32:1 gas won't be much of a buildup.

BJ64

...our pump fuel is generally straight 'gas'. There are a few that sell 'E10' - up to 10% Ethanol etc, but there are plenty of choices of non-alcohol fuels.

The difference in price between 91 Octane and 98 Octane at an RC level is negligable - less than a buck or so a gallon.

So a 'premium unleaded' of alcohol-free 98 Octane would be a good choice...?

BJ

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

I really messed up there. We DO have 10 percent Ethanol gas in the cities. Outside the big-city areas (forgot the distance), you can get regular unleaded gas.

I'd go with with the unleaded 98 octane if someone else were buying' for me! haha. I don't think there is a big difference in which one you use. Now, this is my opinion only, but I think the amount of oil you mix in is more important than octane. That's why I run 32:1. Now later on, I may have lots of carbon buildup, but haven't seen that yet - that's also why I say to get some high performance oil for 2 stroke motorcycles or oil made especially for 2 stroke RC engines such as Zenoah or other brands. Been a while since I saw the Zenoah oil.

cosmo21

Just use regular unleaded in your DLE, I believe the instruction booklet will tell you that.

I think the higher octane may introduce some pre ingnition. The engine is timed for regular.

Ive had several DLE engines of diffent sizes, currently the 60 twin, and have always used regular unleaded and Castrol TT oil. Never a drama.

Cheers from sunny Cairns.

Matt

wind junkie

My Feedback: (1)

I don't care about octane. I only care about NOT using ethanol. If I can get lower octane NO ethanol, I'd go for that but given a choice between high octane no etahanol and any E blend I take no ethanol.

Note when you say "regular unleaded" chances are it probably DOES have ethanol.

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

Found a video on a guy named Fred Culbertson who has installed the Saito FG-84 on his H9 Corsair. He has flown it and looks very lively. I e-mailed him for some additional tips. He has made quite a few discoveries with the Saito, some of which are surprising to me. I can list a few if anyone wants to know.

I did ask about the problem mentioned in the Saito instruction booklet concerning the air bubble in the carb. He was told by Horizon that the best way to clear that is to roll into a left 90 degree bank and let the air bubble work out and then it's done for the day, I assume. I think the engine will make a missing sound and then back to normal when it clears. Instructions suggest to do it on the ground before flight, which Fred says is rather unsafe.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnqU3ZgcK3k

wind junkie

My Feedback: (1)

Great sounding plane. He has a build thread on RC Groups: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2071116

I'm surprised he went over there. I always thought most giant scale guys hung out here on on FG.

cosmo21

Regular unleaded in Australia does not have ethanol. Like previously mentioned. In Aust Ethanol is clearly marked at the pump as E10.

BJ64

Yah - they are usually pretty clearly marked as E10 etc and/or have green somwhere in the name - like United's "Plus" stuff...

BJ

dmyers0403

My Feedback: (48)

Some states here in US are required by there state law to post fuel ethanol content, some do not. Lucky for me here in Oklahoma they clearly state content of Ethanol and we have good access to non-ethanol fuel.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

A club member,that runs a small engine repair shop,said "stay away from ethanol in your model engines or any small engine".He has been in the business for 30 years.

BJ64

...I can also get my hands on some leaded 130 Octane 'AvGas' - which I used to use during my motor racing days.

That may be a bit 'hot' for an RC engine though (?)

BJ

Fly2XS

My Feedback: (65)

We generally pick up 100 LL at the local FBO. I love the smell of that from my Corsair!

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

Anyone know where to get Klotz 2 stroke oil on a local basis? Cannot find it listed anywhere except Klotz Oil and some other major distributors. Fred Culbertson said Klotz oil is recommended for the Saito FG-84. It's rather expensive and hard to find locally. Shipping is pretty steep too for a small order. But, apparently it's worth the effort to find. Sig RC even sells it, but shipping is as much as the product. I keep thinking some motorcycle shop would stock it, but maybe not. O'Reilly's doesn't show to handle it. Anyway, any ideas out there?

BJ64

So AvGas runs ok in RC engines?

BONUS!

Loved the smell of it when I was racing

I used to run the 'leftovers' through my Harley - and it ran like Swiss watch on the stuff. Had an excellent 'bouquet' too LoL

BJ

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

It's not local,but Tower Hobbies carries it.

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

Swordsn, that's great. Never thought of Tower. Might be able to add something to the order and get SS Club discounts plus free shipping. Thanks for the tip.

And grap, I just ordered a few things the other day. Oh well, worth it to do another order.

Got a few more things done on the F4U. Started gluing the wing panels on and installed my Electro Dynamic switches. I have room for another power switch and will put the fuel dot on the side of the fuselage - don't want a gas spill going into the power switches. Yikes!

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

Got her on the gear, or would but the table is too narrow.


LOTS of flap dumped here. A bit much to fly with, I think.


Robart 150's down and locked!


Getting close to paint.

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

I got my TF cockpit kit today and did a bit of fitting. It may work, but needs lots more work. Pilot figure is just a place holder. May need a bit smaller pilot. Will need to lower the seat bump. But, it's a start.








Got a better fit on the cockpit. Will only use the plywood instrument panel and screw it to the bulkhead so I can remove it later if needed to get the whole cockpit out. The headrest is too low for one thing. Can fix that. I'm pretty sure I'll use Best Pilots Pappy Boyington for the actual pilot. Much lighter.

Still refining the cockpit. Added the throttle quadrant back, removed the headrest, and will make a new one and move up. I will recess the instrument panel under the glare shield as it looks a bit rough just hanging out there. Wow, so much time spent on something that adds zero to flying qualities!

Been at this all morning. Got it pretty much under control.

McCrazy

Having slogged my way through this thread over the course of several weeks I wanted to add to it a little bit. First, thanks much for the effort you guys have put into creating this thread. It is an excellent resource and an inspiration for myself and others to get these planes and build them better than the factory intended. I don't have one yet but may get one down the road as it is a beautiful plane that just needs some help to reach it's potential.

RIP from me to Stoat. His posts were my favorite and were getting even better all the way up to his unfortunate passing. I felt it in my gut when I read that he had passed away.

As to the current fuel discussion, hopefully I can add some insight as the following quote is incorrect:
Using higher octane fuel in an engine does not lead to pre-ignition/detonation/pinging/knocking, it is actually the opposite. Pre-detonation occurs when fuel ignites due to heat in the combustion chamber prior to the intended ignition by the sparkplug. Higher octane fuel is more resistant to ignition and slower burning than lower octane fuel which is why high octane is used in high compression/high performance motors. The higher the compression ratio the higher the chance for pre-ignition due to compressed air getting hotter as it compresses.

You can use higher octane fuel in motors rated for low octane but it is a waste of money for the most part and you probably wont see any benefit from it as the motor will not be able to take advantage of the added capability. Using low octane in a engine designed for high octane can lead to catastrophic failure to include holes blown in pistons, bent connecting rods, valvetrain damage, and bearing damage. Most modern cars have knock sensors which listen for the tell-tale sound of pre-ignition. Upon detection, they retard the ignition of the vehicle in an effort to save it from damage which also reduces power output but at least you can get around in a pinch.

Ethanol is a beast the EPA and Federal government are coming to realize. Ethanol breaks down quicker than normal gas and therefor does not store as well for long term usage compared to ethanol-free gas. Ethanol is also hydroscopic and attracts water which is not good for fuel system. Ethanol also tends to be somewhat destructive to fuel systems not designed for it's use so it is a bad idea to put ethanol blended fuel into cars more than I believe 8 years old as the ethanol starts eating seals and hoses leading to maintenance issues. Another thing is ethanol has less energy per unit than gasoline and thus requires more fuel to be burned to provide the same amount of power. This leads to lower fuel economy in vehicles. Between the loss in fuel economy, damage to older vehicles, and the environmental impact cause by trying to produce and refine all this ethanol the Federal gov has actually reduced the amount of ethanol it is requiring to be mixed into American fuel for the first time this year.

As for AvGas, it is leaded which gives off that great smell. You can use leaded gas in engines designed for it or not. Just don't use unleaded in engines designed for leaded fuel as you will damage the valve seats. The aviation industry is one of the last holdouts against the EPA regarding the use of leaded fuels and not adopting ethanol with all of it's drawbacks.

kwik

Thanks McCrazy for the introducton to lo-hi octane.

Not to mention the effects of the strange idea of converting food to methanol , and give it to the cars.

McCrazy

Haha Kwik, and thanks for your numerous contributions to the thread as well. I was dismayed to see the demise of your plane and happy you decided to make another.

kwik

Hehe, yes, well, the life of a warbird-man. Hard, but enjoyable.

I just bought a Magneto and two distributors for the Corsair's dummy-engine.

Maybe some of you is interested? Here;

http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...TID=21448&PN=1

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

Got the Ziroili canopy hard mounted. Seems to fit very well and lots more durable than the ESM. there was a small gap at the top rear where I made a filler piece out of some plywood so it wouldn't distort when screwed down. Still may use 2-56 machine screws to hold the canopy in place as the servo screws tend to work the wood backup blocks loose over time. CA in the threads helps, but not as durable as T-Nuts and 2-56 cap screws.

Starting to run out of things to do before paint. Need to mount some retract air bottles somewhere. After that, it's sanding and priming time!




Got the air bottles done and just about ready to go paint. Now, right as we get to the rainy month - April. Ha

Kind of amazing none of the pull-pull cables or elevator pushrod are in conflict with the cockpit kit.