I’m impressed how quickly your repairs are coming. You’ll probably have her back in the air real soon.

Maybe it is just me and my flying abilities... My TopRCModel Zero plug in wing spars system cracked partly in the air and the rear aluminum tube bent ,lucky for me I was able to land it. I redid the entire plug in wing structure, used aircraft plywood laminated with carbon fiber and used a thick carbon tube for the rear spar, it is now bullet proof. This was a lot more work than repairing this corsair.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...514912bb08.jpg

Thanks! Yup I will be back in the air soon enough. Anyways, it was only in two main piece, and the little bits hear and there is like a puzzle. The hardest part is smoothing it out.

Sorry for High Jacking this thread! Its suppose to be an assembly not repairing!

The Springs in the gear need to be cut down about 1" or replaced with a softer spring. These gear are similar to the Yellow aircraft gear. Two springs = one for absorption and a bottom out preventer. the longer absorption spring is the one to remove from. This should be calculated per plane weight, which seems to be anywhere from 18kg 40lb to 21kg 50lbs. the springs are to stiff with no absorption as is. { Hence the bouncing}

The reason I have not moved forward with mine is "Honestly" after overcoming several hurdles in the assembly process and re-strengthen/re-engineering mine comes in around 47lbs and needed way to much nose weight for my liking. Would push it over 50lbs I did not feel the plane could withstand that weight over duration. Being fully frustrated I set it aside for a while.

I did order a UMS 5-125 to replace the 90cc hoping that would help with the dead lead needed issue but its a hair to big for the cowl. So my option now is to put a moki 180 in it as it is a 1/4" smaller in diamater.

I glued my spars and wings to create a one piece wing . That helped with some of the flexing.

Probably a great idea and it fits my vehicle without the panels being removed. I did notice there was a bit of chatter noise on the outer panels when I was running up my motor. It made me check the tightness of the plastic screw before flight.

sorry about the crash. just getting back to my model. flap push rods seem much too long. using 645 servos. did you have this problem?

I wasn't happy with the rod length myself so I used some 4-40 stainless all thread rod and made the lengths I wanted . The 4-40 rod threaded nicely into the TopRC provided ball links .

same here

So....Between the Covid shut down, a hip replacement and now a collapsing and bulged L2-L3 disc I have not flown the Corsair . Anyone out there got any more flights in on theirs ?
How many have done a sliding canopy and please post pics if you have them .
Happy New Year and may 2021 be better to us all !

Here is how I do my sliding canopy's. The rail material is 1/4"x1/4" square with a 2-56 size hole in the middle of it. They are from Plastruct. I got them from an old hobby shop. Sure you can find them online.
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I cut three pieces. First I drill by hand a few areas down the piece to increase the surface area. Then I glue one to the canopy affixed well with clamps. Cut a piece of 2-56 smooth rod at the length you want and CA one end on making it permanent. Cut the slit on the fuse where the rail will line up. Take the canopy fit to the cut slits and see if it moves freely back and forth. If all is good then put the canopy in place reach inside the fuse , slide the railing through the canopy and glue both ends in place.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...3d680e47a4.jpg
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I just make mine manually operated. But all you have to do is take some rigid carbon strip material and glue to the canopy blocks and operate by servo.

Hi,
how did you guys fix the pilot in the cockpit?
Thanks
BR,
Patrick

I weather him up a bit ( a little sweat on the uniform and helmet, 5 o'clock shadow, a little more tan) then drill two holes in the bottom of the seat near the back. I use wire to anchor him in like a lap belt. This will set him firmly down in the seat. I glue a little padding made out of anything behind his back so he leans forward a bit. I hate to see pilots with their head leaned back against the headrest like they are asleep.

I really appreciate the pics of your accident. It sucks when that happens.

I was seriously looking at this model but seeing how cleanly the glue joints popped off the skins and structure I tend to question the quality of the glue and the longevity of the model.

Just my experience but I cut into the wing to bury some electronics and found the joints to be very strong. Looking at the fracture on the skin of the mid section, it looks like it took quite a bit of impact. The springs are too stiff. If you shorten then too much, the strut won't extend enough to get the wheel back into the wing. I did get a different set of springs but have not had a chance to try them yet. So, I don't think shortening the springs will solve the problem. They are still very stiff even if you shorten them.

Thanks for the input and the photos of the canopy slides . They are very helpful .

Lt , I also have tried modifying the springs and tried several different springs . Its difficult to find the correct spring rate with the correct spring diameter . I have a few more on order that should arrive in a few weeks . If they are satisfactory I will post what they are and where I purchased them

That would be most appreciated information.

I just received mine. Always wanted a giant Corsair, the 20cc ones are nice, but this is a masterpiece of art.
thank to you all on this thread, I’m armed (now that I read your blog-ty!) with the extra bits to make my build smarter and easier.

I just picked up one for these from Legend. Anyone using a EVO 7-77 Radial on this plane?

Evo 777 is Way to Small of an engine for this plane. You need about 10lbs of engine weight.

I am still reading through this thread. What engine did you use and or recommend?

Toprc f4u build
 

Can you share some pics of the electronics tray and gas tank mounting please? Need to get some ideas

After trying many different springs these are the retracts springs that I was finally satisfied with . I purchased them from Grainger. They come in 2" length so 2 are needed for each side . They come in a pack of 10 .
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...bbf233d2cf.jpg

Ohh ! BTW . I did remove that super tacky grease that is packed in the struts and lightly oiled them . I may later on find a heavy grease that is a little less tacky than the original . I liked the idea that it dampens the action . But the OE grease made the struts almost immovable when cold , so it had to go.

Good Build Info here, I have found on some of my jet build, that a softer spring with a peace of nitro fuel line acted as a great damper

I will look into adding the fuel line . It would take the smallest line though . The ID of the springs on this Corsair is pretty small . The OD is only .300 " . I might have tiny line for chainsaws and weedeaters around the shop.

Retracts
 

Been following this post and noticed that the Top RC retracts for this kit look just like the retracts that I bought for a ESM Corsair that never happened. These are pneumatic but other than that appear to be exactly the same. Is the Top RC a modifies ESM?
These are for sale should there be any interest.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...22f95fd07.jpeg

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I don't know who makes them for TopRC but mine do not look like yours in the least.

I was able to get some medium glow fuel line inside the replacement springs with a little effort . I added it in three 3/4 " segments. One segment to join the 2 springs and a segment on each end . This now give it a variable spring rate the gets stiffer the farther the spring compress . Thanks for the tip mikes68charger . BTW I completely restored a 69 and a 70 Charger as well a 69 R/T 440 4spd back in the day , wish I had them now .

Did you got the chance to fly the corsair with the ums 125 also how the engine fit

I have Not flown mine. I bought the engine to put in it but honestly, just lost interest in it for the time being.

Great, Im glad I could help, And this thread has helped me not to buy one of these Corsairs, I had a Carf Corsair new in box before I left for my Deployment but I traded it for a German T-28 kit that takes a Moki 250. I love Corsairs, but I hate the ideal of a bad wing.

I still have my 68 Dodge Charger, Put a 392 modern hemi from a 2018 challenger with a 5 speed manual set up, I have been tempted to sell a few times to buy a big RV toy hauler trailer, but my wife wont let me.

Best suggestion
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for these Corsairs, fly them in do not try to 3 point, will take a lot of stress off the wing.

I had the infamous 50cc ESM Corsair. I believe the design team from ESM went to TopRC. They must have use a slightly blown up version of the old ESM Corsair blueprints. Those center sections were notorious for being poorly designed. Outer skins would separate and ripple in the sun. In some cases it was not enough glue or bad glue jobs. Reinforcement of high stress landing gear was minimal. The wobbly outer wing panels, mentioned above, was also an issue. Too much play. It always felt like one hard pull would fold the wings. The singular Fiber Wing Joiner on this version is exactly like the old ESM Corsair. Kinda jinky. A second Joiner would be better. Or some aluminum wing tubes like on my TopRC Zero and FW 190. Glueing the Center Section to the outer wings is an idea, but makes transportation and assembly a challenge.
I love TopRC. Still weighing my options on this warbird.

jim

Over all the quality is decent. Just keep in mind that you NEED an engine with 10-12lbs of weight to balance without having to add dead lead. The only reason mine plane has not been finished is I put a 7lb engine on it and now have to remove it and start over , Restructuring a firewall is a bit of work, I just dont have the time to deal with it this past year.
I am an Interior remodeling contractor and work hit like a sledgehammer when the pandemic started. Everyone being stuck at home has amplified my work load 200%.and has not let up yet.

Painting started and doing spot welds.
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What was your process in removing the original markings to painting?

Just wet sanding. Once the clear coat comes off the decal sands right off. Wet sanding the finish with 400 grit will prep for a thin coat primer.

My experience was a bit different. I would have been wet sanding until next Christmas to to get the decals off mine. On the fuse, ( know this sounds very crude, but) I used a sharp small wood chisel to lightly scape the clearcoat breaking it up, tnen wet sanding. On the wing, you cant use anything sharp because of the ribs under the simulated fabric are too susceptible to damage. I lightly sanded the decal, masked it off, repainted mine blue and white, before painting the wing. The wing decals are not placed properly on the wing but I had no choice to repaint them as they were. It may be that mine just had a much thicker coat of clear on than yours. I will repaint the insignias on the fuse.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...d52545edd.jpeg

I know from experience with my TopRC Zero that it's not easy to get the decals off. I ordered my Corsair without the decals applied, an option Robart provided.
I'll be posting some of my build on this thread. The colors that come on the plane are pretty far off, so I plan on repainting the intermediate blue and changing the grey to white.
I plan on squeezing a VVRC 120 into mine. I'm hoping I can use the stock plugs, and add some blisters to the cowl to allow it to fit.
I'm not in a big hurry, but I should start posting some build information soon.
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