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TopRc F4U Corsair assembly
I guess I am the first in the US to get one so I will do an assembly with pics. It arrived earlier this week and I have not had a chance to open it yet. I did look at the retracts and they look impressive. I plan to unbox it tonight and get a few pics loaded by tomorrow.
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What's the wingspan on this one ?
I'm thinking they will sell lots of these...especially with the H9 now being discontinued. -Mike O. |
Google it like I did. 93” wingspan gator-rc carries it.
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Here is the gear. The tail has some carbon plates built onto them to keep them light. The mains are Very Robust looking.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...968615ded6.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...0d805c6573.jpgCarbon Plates. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...37b3506901.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...73522a89cc.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...face24a253.jpg The pilot is a 15" 1/4.5 scale from Warbird pilots. |
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...e8470fb535.jpg
The fuse looks good and the canopy is a split canopy , so it can be made to open. I will do that on this one. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...fff23acff0.jpg The front has a hatch for easy access. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...b31fee43c0.jpg Tail gear doors already installed. |
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...6bfd2ec991.jpg
Big crutch system built in all the way to the firewall. (A+ on that). https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...ef2a45e030.jpg Decal on the cowl is WAY better than on previous ones. Crystal clear, NO dot matrix look, https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...70a8c1d505.jpg Wings are three piece with a 8mm ply and composite on both sides with two aluminum anti rotation pins. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...13516f6589.jpg Wing Spar https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...4cef2f3156.jpg Wings have good detail on the skins. Tail feathers have the fabric covered rib stiched control surface look. |
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...fa3ad4f504.jpg
Gear doors come pre hinged. Flaps are fowler style hinged. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...31ebe78db0.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...fb7b7f2bdb.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...165ed00e83.jpg Inner flaps have a tounge leaf that protrudes into the next. Kinda like the TopFlite had. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...03d148405e.jpg The engine I might use. A USM 7-90 seven cylinder. Have not decided yet on if I might just use a Moki 180 that I have sitting. There is enough room in the cowl . It measured 10.2" x 10.5" Tight but doable. |
I wanna fly it!!
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That looks great Tim !!
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I have decided on my Electronics package. I am Big on the KISS principal (keep it simple Stupid). I plan to use a mix of Analog and Digital servos. Usually I use analog on Warbirds and Digital on Jets. Reasoning is Analog give better endurance under vibration stresses. This is based on my opinion. Yet I wanted a little more power on the tail surfaces.
Ailerons and flaps will use Hitec 645mg (130oz) totaling three per side. One aileron and two flap per panel. I have had decades of consistency with them in large scale warbirds. The rudder and both elevators will use Hitec H5585mg (195)oz . The throttle and both gear door mechs. will use H5485. Receiver is Spektrum 12310T 12 channel, two JR heavy duty switches for electronic ignition and gear. Power is two Spektrum 6.6v 2200mah, on telemetry all I need is a engine tach, temp head probe and variometer. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...d9894190de.jpg |
I'm liking it so far going to call gater rc and get one
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I'm not sure if he has any. It would be best to call Mike and ask, he is a nice guy.
Well ,I am moving slow on getting work done to it, but so far here is where I am at. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...3c5306cf9b.jpg I rough up all hinge gluing points with a drum sander. Just scratching the finish for a good bond. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...a7fe4cb220.jpg Dry fit everything prior to gluing. I use the West system 6-10 self nozzle mixing. I shoot it into a smaller syringe so I can manage the glue better. Getting in in deeper. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...3755492633.jpg When setting the control horns I noticed that there was only one slot. Manuf missed the second hole on both ailerons. No biggie easy fix ! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...93f03017fd.jpg The instructions say to install hidden linkages. Note the hole below the aileron hatch. With that setup I was getting to much slop for my liking so I decided to go with a traditional setup. |
Mike who need more info or contact
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The flap hatches are made of ply with finish coating "Strong". The Aileron hatches are made of the composite/foam core like the wing skins. I felt this to be a bit of a weak point so I added 1/64 ply to the inside of the hatch plates. This made them much much stiffer.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...967bb4677b.jpg I also take a standard pencil and trace all panel lines and raised panels on each part as I work on them. This just helps the lines stand out a little better when out in the sun. There will be more DETAIL work towards the end. This is just the process of how I usually go. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...4d84675d32.jpg Now hinging the center sections flaps were a bit challenging. Getting everything lined up to operate evenly took patience. ( this is something the Manuf may want to consider doing at factory). I've been modeling for 30yrs and the average newcomer may be baffled. |
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Wish they'd think about the simple things like making those hinges out of black G-10 material. This plane looks outstanding! Appreciate your efforts, Tim, but take a LOT more and bigger pictures. Please!!
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Once it makes it to the field I can promise static and flight shots by a professional magazine photographer
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https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...2ab5ac1aff.jpg
Got the rudder and steering hooked up. I did not use the light weight wire supplied . I always use this leader wire. I get it from local sporting good shop 30lb leader wire. I think Walmart has it also. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...2ad707fbb2.jpg Next I decided to work on the cowl a bit. It already comes with the flaps about 5-10 degree open but I wanted a bit more. This way I know air gets moving through the engine. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...f2662e063d.jpg I tack them open where I want them with thin CA https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...eef27a4297.jpg West epoxy and a little tape. I make a little thickened with filler to fill the cracked openings. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...eaaaecef0c.jpg |
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...09f60dd87a.jpg
Finished with a 6oz layer of tape. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...3422ee31fd.jpg The cowl ring mount is about 3/4" in width. It is made of two layers of 1/8 ply glued together so 1/4" thick. I decided to remove about half of the material, again keeping in mind I want plenty of air moving through the cowl. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...c533437084.jpg |
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...9c23a8201b.jpg
Moving forward with the cowling. I set the cowl to be 1/4" past the silver of the firewall. There is PLENTY of room for air to move through now. I tak glued the ring in place with medium CA in a few spots, then removed it to epoxy the ring in place. I ran a bead on the inside and out then used some 6oz fiberglass tape to back it up. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...ab7aae9ae4.jpg Since I had the epoxy out , I went ahead and beaded the aluminum cowl mounts. Should add a little more strength. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...9aa80d91be.jpg On the wing center section I decided to put my external wiring through two holes towards the middle on top. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...ad35aacc0e.jpg Drilled two small holes for the elevator wires to be secured. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...ca3e0cc3ba.jpg This is the tail retract doors. At first thought this is kind of a Hokey setup. A spring that goes trough the rear retract frames to each door.I have actuated it about ten times now and it works perfectly! |
Finally had time to add more to the thread.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...fa21b246ff.jpg This is what I used for stand offs. I already had some 3/4" dowel so I cut 2" pieces and then drilled a 5/16 hole through the center added a 1/8 piece of ply to the end. I then used some 1/4"x 3" bolts through that. bolted it together and added thickened epoxy alll over the wood areas. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...a4fe6bddb5.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...873ff85348.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...25629fabed.jpg Once all was hardened I cut the center hole out with a hole saw bill. |
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...58ddf62950.jpg
The engine is now installed and doing all the plumbing work. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...27a07a125d.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...bbd07af9cd.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...1e39020b57.jpg I have run the engine on a bench to get it all broken in and she seems to run pretty good. I am using a 22"- 3 bladed with about 14" of pitch. Getting 51-5200 RPM's. steadily. |
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...f28524b2bb.jpg
Forgot to mention that on using the USM 7-90 the cowl mounting lugs are right behind the exhaust ring so that did not work. I made aluminum extenders that go out an extra 1/2" in all directions. I had a piece of aluminum bar stock so it was not difficult. Also shortening the cowl mounting plate made it easier to get around the exhaust ring. |
Back to wiring. The Corsair took sixteen (16) extensions to complete. Not kidding! . This one is a more advanced airplane to complete for sure. Not for the New guy. Gear doors were a bit of a nightmare (geometry wise), but I did manage to get everything spot on. Now they are all working flawlessly. I use the Gear controller to operate them.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...c8de7ca503.jpg I like to use small zipties to identify my connections. It makes it so much easier when out at the field to get everything pluged up correctly. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...4c1b9e3bc0.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...9d1b8edddd.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...014f552c4d.jpg |
I'm getting close to final on assembly. Everything is programmed and hooked up. Now I have to do a weight and balance. As of now the plane sits at 39lbs. I still have the cockpit , cosmetic detail weathering , paint gear so on and final balance. Hopefully I will not have to add weight.
I just ordered the USM 5-125 because of the weight factor. I plan to do a couple of taxi runs and if I don't feel good with the 7-90 it will get an engine upgrade. |
Can't wait to get some flight shots!
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OK,, back to earlier in the thread "Finishing".
Prior to the build I mentioned how I trace all panel lines and panels with a pencil. This is how I go from there. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...8e04dac78a.jpg This is a basic paint kit which can be bought at WalMart or other local goods store. It cost about $8-10. I also have a can of Aluminum and Flat black. I prefer the oil type paint but suggest using Acrylics just for the ease of clean up. The reason I like oil is it will not deteriorate in the sun or over time. I cut up half of an old towel in 8"x8" squares. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...1421185113.jpg Now the real question? What color is " Grime"? I use a blend of dark green, medium brown and white. This gives what I think it looks like. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...6c5ff784c1.jpg I use a small piece of cloth rub into the paint then rub all over an area 8"x8" or so making sure to get it into all the grooves. Then take my wipe down rag quickly getting the majority back off.. Some of the paint stays in the cracks and gives a very good WORN look. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...e1207a3ea5.jpg I use a small Acid brush to add an Aluminum worn look. If you get to much on NO WORRIES use your rag and remove it. Funny is, the more you screw up and fix the better it will look! Just keep working it over till your happy. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...df68a5242a.jpg The Aluminum should be applied first then the Grime color. That way it over laps the bright Aluminum color and looks dirty. When you are at the field the sun will glisten on the charcoal from the pencil line and really stand up. Will post more later A scale model is never finished it just sits waiting till you have the time/patience to get back to it. |
Nice job!
I have a helicopter I'm dropping off for paint! :D |
Originally Posted by TimD.
(Post 12592554)
The flap hatches are made of ply with finish coating "Strong". The Aileron hatches are made of the composite/foam core like the wing skins. I felt this to be a bit of a weak point so I added 1/64 ply to the inside of the hatch plates. This made them much much stiffer.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...967bb4677b.jpg I also take a standard pencil and trace all panel lines and raised panels on each part as I work on them. This just helps the lines stand out a little better when out in the sun. There will be more DETAIL work towards the end. This is just the process of how I usually go. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...4d84675d32.jpg Now hinging the center sections flaps were a bit challenging. Getting everything lined up to operate evenly took patience. ( this is something the Manuf may want to consider doing at factory). I've been modeling for 30yrs and the average newcomer may be baffled. I received my Corsair in March and am stuck on hinging the in-board flaps. i have not built a Top RC Model before and the instructions are weak at best! Do you have some guidance? Photos? The instructions show a single horn on each aileron. I would appreciatte any insight you can give! Scott |
Honestly I did not look at their assembly manual, except when I first downloaded it. Like you say it really does not give much helpful advise. "VERY Generic"
I have built models for 35yrs or so, so I have a good bead on what to do. On the ailerons it might show one horn. In the hardware pack, there were enough to do a double so I did. I just figured they forgot to route out the holes "LOL" The inboard flaps - First get the hinges in the correct directions. Lay the center section upside down. Get the adjoining flaps in their correct locations. Look at the hinges and put in place, you will see they will only work out in one direction. Now once that is figured out. Get your epoxy ready - drop down in the holes, insert the hinge, check and make sure it is getting full coverage on the hinge. Now move the inner flap to its correct place mating up with the center sections top surface. Add the outer wing panel to that side and wiggle everything so it mates up with the center section top and aileron that is how you line them up. Once you have in the proper locations put some tape on the flaps and center section holding them in that location. Having the hinges themselves flush with the surfaces plays a role here so pay attention to that. I stood my center section on the leading edge to let dry. Let me know if you have any other questions. I will get a pic for you tonight. |
I m not sure if my last response was posted so I'll try again.
1. What extensions did you use? I need to stock up. 2. I wanted to fly in May so I bought the TopRC gear instead of waiting for Robarts new gear. How did you fit yours? 3. My left wing pins do not match with the center section with the spar installed. thanks! Scott |
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...2405582306.jpg
Just out of the box https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...31e4dffba9.jpg Happy to have it! |
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...db711bf6f.jpeg
Now to figure out how to work the hinges? https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...d4b2c725a.jpeg How the manual shows the connections |
Tim,
I was planning to use (4) analog 645s on the flaps but the center section mounting and outer wing mounting are reversed. the only way to work it without changing the servo mounting is to put each servo on an individual channel, or change to digital servos and reverse program half the servos. What did you do? Scott |
Originally Posted by Fly2XS
(Post 12601720)
Tim,
I was planning to use (4) analog 645s on the flaps but the center section mounting and outer wing mounting are reversed. the only way to work it without changing the servo mounting is to put each servo on an individual channel, or change to digital servos and reverse program half the servos. What did you do? Scott https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...8e43d83a13.png |
After doing another count I believe there are 19) servo extensions and 2) Y-harness. I make my own extensions per plane. They are custom cut to proper lengths.
I have the Top RC gear also. They seem to work well so far but I do not have any flight time on them yet. The wing spar has to be in the center section first, otherwise the anti rotation pins will hit high on the center section. |
Anyone putting this plane together , just a FYI it will need approx. 12-13lbs of engine weight. So pick your engine accordingly. I recommend a 120-180cc radial you will need the weight and in my opinion you can always throttle back instead of 5-6lbs of lead.
Mine is at 44lbs take off weight. |
Hey Tim,
Would you be open to sharing your build experiences? The hinging of the flap is a bit screwy being so far below the trailing edge (as compared to the full size). i used your suggestions to set the flaps in place while the wing is on its leading edge. Then I could epoxy the hinges in place. I'm finding a lot of binding between the inner flap and the center flap due to the spade joiner. did you run across this and what do you suggest to reduce the friction? Thanks! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...39d12fa4b5.jpg |
Mine would rub at the middle flap and outer flap where the wing joins. Its like the jigs at the factory were off a 1/16th upon drilling the hinge holes. I took a piece of sand paper and a piece of 1/4" plywood 1"x12" slowly sanding off a bit to get them to work correctly. After sanding them to fit , I then used some touch up paint to cover the ends.
I just finished the sliding canopy on mine last night. The 1/4 pilot did not work to Big. I ordered the 1/5th and it is a perfect fit. If you have questions just ask. I have built many many many many planes over the years and this one took more than the average. When finished it is Nice! |
Originally Posted by TimD.
(Post 12605112)
Mine would rub at the middle flap and outer flap where the wing joins. Its like the jigs at the factory were off a 1/16th upon drilling the hinge holes. I took a piece of sand paper and a piece of 1/4" plywood 1"x12" slowly sanding off a bit to get them to work correctly. After sanding them to fit , I then used some touch up paint to cover the ends.
I just finished the sliding canopy on mine last night. The 1/4 pilot did not work to Big. I ordered the 1/5th and it is a perfect fit. If you have questions just ask. I have built many many many many planes over the years and this one took more than the average. When finished it is Nice! What engine are you flying in this air frame? Can you post some images of your gear door servo & linkage set-up? Thank you! Scott |
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