AL2007

Yeah, personally I don't believe a lot of things people say... if you believe some1 who says u can't then surely you have already failed.
I can bend time and space and lots of people hav said that couldn't be done. Whoops I've already said too much !
I don't ask for much.. hopefully I will have it all in a couple of days..

AL2007

Doh ! the hobby shop is waiting on their shipment of HPI stuff now i'm stuck with a car that i cannot start ( broken pull start ) [sm=71_71.gif]
Any suggestions ? not too keen to go down the roto start or tiger start etc unless someone experienced convinces me it's a good option...
Does anyone know if there are any other pull starts that will fit ? ? ? ? ? ? 1 / 10 scale with vx-18 engine
I really don't want to wait for ages ordering something...

ehroof

take the old one with you to the hobby store and try to match them up. I think a traxxas is the same too but try to match it up.

AL2007

Yeah.. thanks ehroof but i live out of the city and don't and don't really want to waste a couple of hours driving there and back if they don't hav one that will fit.

OK this may be a stupid idea but is there any reason i can not just connect the One-Way Bearing from the pull start to the end of my cordless drill via a socket to start the engine? I think i have a socket extender that will allow it to fit between the suspension arm etc from the back when the suspension is compressed.

I never claimed not to be slightly crazy...

bluecaka69

yes that will work but your only prob may be you wont have enough clearence for drill shaft due to the shocks being in the way

AL2007

Thanks bluecaka69, I think it will clear ok when the supension behind the engine is compressed.

AL2007

Oh man this is so close to fitting...

might actually get it to fit if i mess with all of the suspension settings.

ehroof

lol, ghetto rotostart. Let us know if it will work, i was going to suggest that but i figured the rear suspension was in the way.

AL2007

Groan... what to do [sm=drowning.gif]

Looks like i may need to spend a couple of hours f - - - - - - around to get this going again.

There is a himoto rotostart available over here part 70111 may just hav to go buy that even tho it will take a few days to get here. Does anyone know if these are any good ? - looks like it has metal gear in it : ) but will be pretty pissed if the cogs in it strip or something... can i use this with the cordless drill so I don't need to get a 7.2 battery and a charger for it as well ?

Should i just wait for a pull start or go down the rotostart or tiger drive or drill start option or perhaps a starter box . . . . . . . . . A A A R G H

ehroof

i rmoved my hpi rotostarts, you need a charged battery to run your rc, or a charged drill, sounds like no big deal until your battery is dead and it feels like hours for your battery to charge.

NSXTACY

Just to let you guys know, again, these shock shafts work PERFECT with the tornado aluminum shocks: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXN177&P=0
I put them in all my shocks this morning and used them on a long offroad bash this afternoon and they worked flawlessly! Fit perfect and are much more reliable and stronger than the stock alloy ones! If you order anything from towerhobbies anytime soon, stock up on these HPI steel shock shafts if you a have a tornado, they are a necessary upgrade for any risk takers!!
Anybody know what i could use for shock boots, to protect the shock shafts from debris and dirt? I was thinking heat shrink..... Ill try it out....

Anybody feel the differentials slip to much?? They need to be a little tighter especially the rear wheels...i have trouble with the diffs. slipping too much, get stuck alot. Not a big problem though.

So far my buggy is doing tremendously well! Acceleration is crazy right now, top end could be better, but i think its cause my 2nd gear hardly ever engages... Crappy CVD. I have 3 CVDs right now and only one works..lol Someone needs to tell Redcatracing to make the 2 speed CVD better quality...

AL2007

Maybe there are some lemons in the orange tree... i've had ten stone of giant crazy big puppy jump on my truck without breaking anything and i've given the truck absolute *****.. a couple of upgraded parts and its now running sweet ( wish i could start it... ) i even drove it down the garden steps the other day, dogs in tow. Wouldn't mind some better servos but hey u get wot u pay for - u can spend more on servos then the price of the truck... The batteries charging isn't a problem, everthings charged around here as we are renovating the house at the moment and also have more than one cordless drill - i just don't want to spend a bunch of cash on a roto start if its going to ***** itself... how does the rotostart cope if the engine is flooded and the compression is high ? will it tear itself appart or cope with it ?

ehroof

the rotostart that i had from hpi coped with everything. i just took it off once i didnt have a charged battery, i am a contractor with many cordless drills and sometimes you just dont have one with a charge.

NSXTACY

How long is the dogbone driveshaft that goes to the rear diff on the tornado BB? its either 61 or 55mm... the head on my dogbone broke, i need a new one... And whats the part number?

volcanostx420

what are the adjustments on the lsn and hsn.i turned my all the way in and now it would start.what should i do

MiniCwik

Check this thread out - all the info you need = http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5174647/tm.htm

NSXTACY

Since i put in the new turbo ring exhaust: http://cgi.ebay.com/NIB-1-10-Turbo-R...QQcmdZViewItem
My rpms have been lower and my transmission won't switch gears. Before it wouldn't switch until i switched to Top Fuel. Now again it won't switch. What could i do to make the rpms higher? Leaning out the HSN hasn't done much for it. Any tuning suggestions....
Also i am having a priming problem: it cuts off during running and it has plenty of fuel. I think its cause i drilled the pressure hole to close to the back. Maybe i could stick the pressure pipe into the muffler.....?

arlo1

On ebay it says the pipe is for gobs of low end torque and that could be your problem I does look like a low end pipe to me! If the pipe make good low end then it wont make good top end you can only tune a pipe one way ore the other!

ehroof

Nsxtcy, i think you drilled the hole to far back on the pipe, re drill closer the the front and plug that hole up and i am sure you will be fine, you cant tune it if its not getting enough fuel push.

NSXTACY

I think i know one problem. I took off the nipple and just put the pressure line in the pipe. And the exhuast heat melts the pressure line closing up the tube. Where can i get heat resistant pressure line? I bought some thick yellow line from hobbytown a while ago and thats what i was using, it melts like crazy. ehroof didn't u say you just put the pressure line right into the pipe? And what would i plug the hole in the pipe up with?

ehroof

silicone fuel line should work fine, pro poxy is good to plug holes, you can just put the pressure line into the pipe, make sure its a tight fit but not to tight that it restricts air flow. i thought that pipe came with a nipple you could thread in the hole you make?

NSXTACY

It did come with the threaded nipple but it leaked around the sides alot. And where could i get pro poxy? What do you mean not too tight? I thought you didn't want it to leak around the sides of the hole.

ehroof

use pipe dope on the threads before you thread the nipple in the pipe, pro poxy is at any hardware store, home depot. its a 2 part epoxy. if your going to stick the tubing in a hole you drilled in the pipe, just make sure its not too tight and closes the opening on the tubing. make it snug.

cebakewell

Great feed on the clutch spring. I've been turning LRN HRN's NRA's HMO's and whatever else i see to try and get it to stop rolling at idle. Took the clutch bell off......no spring. Just one question though.....does the spring wrap around the shoes and it's ends hook into each other. I couldnt see it on the pic. Also just a word of advice which i think caused my problem and other daily cluth rebuilders. The clutch bell is die cast. Sometimes you get burrs or worms in the metal....just a defect. If you take a small piece of med to fine grit sand paper you can smooth out the inner part of the bell. This should prevent some hang ups of the spring on the clutch bell, which im sure is probably the primary reason for premature breakage. I could be wrong, but my spider senses tell me this is the problem. Going to get a new spring tomorrow and see if it works. I have a Himoto Rapida Pro, and unfortunately there are no dealers in my area. Is there another spring that works just the same....I have no spring to go by, I guess I could just bring it in and see which one fits. Thanks for the help and keep racing!

ehroof

traxxas 4146x. dont use the shoes that come with this, just the spring