OK, I know I posted something similar in another thread, but it's kinda buried, and was an unrelated thread anyhow, so I'm gonna ask in a new post. I tore down my engine per the instructions posted in another thread (I think popper posted it), but I had noticed that the Exhaust manifold didn't mate up with the block, it's opening was actually wide open under the block. I sealed up everything like that linked website said, and really gooped up that opening...It has no power ever since. 2 things I did, I bought some gasket material to make a new gasket for it (since I didn't put a gasket on it), and I bought the copper stuff to do it again since I had used the traditional form-a-gasket the first time. But, what my question is, How do you know to put in the sleeve for the piston? I lined it up centered on the openings the last time, but I've questioned it ever since I did it. Does it have to be lined up a certain way kinda like timing it? Maybe part of my problem was I got some goop somewhere I shouldn't have, who knows. I'm gonna try it again like I said with the copper sealant, a new exhaust gasket, and I bought the 2 needle carb while I was at it since all the advice seems directed at them, and I hear they perform better. Any other advice before I tear it down again guys???

There is a pin in the top of the crankcase, and a notch in the top of the sleeve. Line those two up, and you'll be fine.

As for your exhaust manifold, running sluggish would most likely be caused by running with no gasket. Also, what kind of material did you use to seal the engine? how long did it sit after sealing before you actually fired it up? Did you tighten the head screws in an X pattern?

If all those answers are yes, and you've got the sleeve lined up properly with the crankcase, your culprit is definitely the exhaust gasket-unless your weather's changed, in which case it could be caused by improper tune.

Also, I forgot to mention to check all the o-rings in your carb. if you replace em, grease em before you install. Associated Green Slime works well (normally used for shock o-rings, but it prevents leaks in almost any seal with an o-ring and a moving part)

Thanks Eric, I'm an old school car guy, so Yes, I did tighten the head screws in an X pattern, I didn't take the carb apart, just off, I used traditional redish brown Form-a-gasket #2. It sat over a week because we had some rain, and then I was just too busy to take it out and I tried re-tuning it. I saw the notch on the sleeve, but not the pin on the crank case, so I'll have to check that when I tear it back down. I didn't use a gasket on the exhaust but I made sure the opening was sealed up. It was already running a little sluggish and hot ever since I replaced the clutch spring with the Hot Bodies one that my LHS told me should work when I asked for the Traxxas one 'cause he didn't stock just the spring, only the slice, and he was out of that, which was one reason I thought maybe it was the sealing because it always ran either a little too hot (about 290-310) or too rich. I'll get some of that green slime, I ordered the 2 needle carb from Mark since the Japan engine had the single needle, I got the roll of gasket material and the Permatex copper high temp gasket maker from Pep-Boys as well as the single speed tranny, different sized clutch bells, and HPI traxxas replacement clutch springs....I'll try it again when all the new stuff comes in...been trying to tune it in 95-100 degree and humid weather also...Thanks again.

One more question...we're not supposed to put any sealer on the head, right???

Not on the head. Use liquid or the paper for the exhaust header. The paper soaks up the oil and falls apart over time. I use high temp liquid(bronze color) and it hasn't failed yet.

That's what I bought the other day...so you're saying use that instead of a paper gasket??? how do you seal up the big gap on the bottom side of the header where it is open below the block???

There should only be an opening in the middle of the header. You seal the outside of the header onto the head.

Chubby, yes, the inside of the header is open for air flow, but the opening on the header is nearly twice the size of the opening on the block...On the bottom side of the assmembly, there's about an 1/8" opening where the header opening is exposed under the flange on the block...That's what I'm confused about...

unless I am misunderstanding you there should not be any opening underneath.

Here's a pic of the pin. The sleeve must be lined up properly or the porting won't line up.

Thanks for the pic unlce, that helps a lot. I got most of the parts in today and will probably get to it either sunday or monday. It looks like the tiger drive matches up for the Infinit engine...I'm not sure about the backing plate, but it looks like you use the same backing plate and just replace the pull start mechanism (although I haven't officially checked the Sullivan websight for exact direction), but the bearing fits and the cap screws line up, and it came with new cap screws to put in the backing plate so the heads clear the unit. Just the crank shaft is only about 1/2-3/4 into the one way bearing.
Dad, I have been getting a little confused in our exchange on this exhaust issue myself. The opening in manifold is much larger than the one in the block. The opening in the manifold is exposed under the flange where it mounts to the block. I believe the gasket had covered that, but since I hadn't gotten gasket material when I did it, I tried covering it with the form-a-gasket, but I might have filled it into the manifold cavity a little, or didn't put enough on and have a leak. I'm going to replace the head screws with button head cap screws (allen bolts) for better tightening also.
Thank you guys all so much for your helpfulness and patience...I think I understand enough now to do the job right and will take more time...I rushed it last time, and didn't have all the right supplies and tried to make do.
One more question though...I know you guys gave a part number for the traxxas clutch springs, but I haven't been able to find anyplace to carry just traxxas clutch springs, only whole slices. I ordered MIP T-Maxx replacement springs. They also came in today and are about 1/4 inch longer just like the Hot bodies ones I had used. Is that 6164x (or whatever # it was, don't have time to look at the moment) for the 2.5 in the Maxx, or is it for an older model. These MIP's although are the same length as the Hot bodies, are thinner, being the same diameter as the stock Infinities. Is this supposed to be right, or am I making too many assumptions?

Yes too many assumtions lol..
By the way, what car do you have? I think people should put it in there sig or something. Makes it easier. Just a thought.

Yeah, thats how i do it

Not sure about part numbers.

Yes the tiger drive replaces the whole entire pullstart mechanism.
The sullivan website lists all the tiger drives and the specifications for which engine they fit.
www.sullivanproducts.com

For the exhaust, the gasket should help, if you dont have one already (Sorry a little confused in what you were asking there)

That makes both of us confused lol...

Sorry Chubby, I've listed it in several posts, but I've never figured out how to do a signature (or taken the time anyway). I've got a HiMoto 1/10 scale Syclone Pro with the Japanese Motor and the 2 speed, which I'm replacing with the single speed tranny with HPI clutch bell's (got a few different one's and some different throttle gears to try different ratio's) as well as the Taiwan 2 needle carb...I've also got my son's Traxxas Stadium Maxx with the 2.5, which I have even more problems with than mine...LOL...but I figured I'd spend the money and learn on mine first, then get his set-up...besides, basically all I've heard so far is that 2.5 is a super touchy engine, and we'd be better off putting the direct drop in OS.18 into it (at $200+)...I'd just be better off getting him a redcat after I learn how to get mine right...LOL)

OK, Chubbysuncle, I've got the same related question...The Japanese Engine doesn't have a pin in the top of the Crank Case or Head...There's a notch in the top of the cylinder sleeve, If I line it up with the Casting Line, the exhaust port pretty much lines up centered with the exhaust outlet on the block, with a little sleeve showing on both sides...Is this how it looks if you line it up with the pin on the taiwan engine??? I'm going to try taking pictures of it tonight...

[img][/img] Here's a pic of the top of my block...Like I said, no pin, but has a notch in the sleeve.

dont let popper see that pics hes gonna be mad
next time use macro button the one that loos lke a flower

LOL...I DID!!! The camera is just a piece of garbage, wouldn't focus in close enough...trust me, after I saw the pics on the display, I checked that one out to see if I could get it any closer...LOL...

I can see that 9V battery fine! Get closer. I dunno how that liner will work out. I guess when the cooling head is on it'll prevent the liner from moving. The stock .18 has that alignment pin and I guess thats all it's for. As long as the exhaust port is centered then everything else should be good. That cylinder liner was in that block right? Go for it. Yeah Popper doesn't like fuzzy Pics at all. Make sure to zoom all the way out. Wide, no zoom at all, and my Olympus is good from about 6" to 1'. Like I said the 9v and other stuff on the right are in perfect focus. Thats the distance that block shoulda been.

sleeve isn't in the first one, is in the second one, I was about a foot away and that was the best balance between clear focus and close enough to see detail I could maintain...I tried...I probably could have gotten a better pic with my phone, but I don't have the cable or software (I bought a dongle, but software froze comp and seller wouldn't exchange it) to exchange the pic...