el_tonto

^ The 47T and 42T are definitely the 2-speed buggy gears, and 44T is the one you want for the single speed.

yep I just checked the redcatracing parts search and the single-speed 44T is 05112 which is the part number above.

(as far as differences - the 47T has a large hole in the middle to fit a one-way bearing. It won't sit on a 5mm shaft without it. And the 42T has a knob on the side for the centrifugal arm to engage against, which engages the second gear. The 44T has neither of these features, and instead has a slot in the center for a pin to prevent it spinning on the transmission shaft. It's not visible, but is [link=http://shopping.netsuite.com/s.nl/c.849850/id.506/.f?sc=14]here on the redcat picture[/link])

el_tonto

That's pretty much the battery I'm using! it's great because it's half the size of 4xAAs or 5C rechargeable receiver packs, so it actually fits comfortably into the receiver box. Do ensure it gets unplugged after use, and don't dare let it go fully flat. (Though if you've already got Lipos then I guess you know the safety concerns with them.)

joeyhatch11

Yeah thanks guys for the help. It's like pulling teeth in the Exceed thread to get an answer.

joeyhatch11

Hey guys I need your help again. I posted another question as to what dogbones I need for my .16 buggy in the Exceed thread. There are 4 different lenghts to pick from and they dont say where they go. I'm just looking for the front/rear replacements. Not the dogbones for the out-drives from the trans to the diffs. Here's the link if you can help please. Thanks, Joe

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_82...tm.htm#8247190

michelle0489

OK i need help and am not sure if this is where i need to post this. I just bought two tornados one is a bb and one is a s30.
I started breaking in the bb and the clutch bell turned blue is that normal??

di break in the s30 tha same way they came with two different manuals. I am a single mom trying to get this done for my son and my self b4 xmas. any help at all would be awesome.

I started the bb and the wheels just kept spinning it ran into my pool and broke the antenna that was the first time i started it. then i figured out thet there is a knob on the remote to stop the wheels from spinning. wow i was glad no one was around

it is about 22* here so is it ok to even do the break in?


Oh i deff want to get a starter this pull stupin any help on how to do that?

chrsfincher

[size=3]ok i just got my tornado today and i did the first step in the break in, i was lookin at the carb and when i pull the breaks it closes all the way and stalls the engine. I am new to rc cars, i have messed around with nitro planes for a while, but they dont have brakes to worry about lol. any help would be great i am gettin ready to go do the second stage of break in and need the brakes to work so i can drive it. thanks for the help

amf66

What you need to do is adjust the idle screw. On the carb there should be a black screw that has a spring on it (I think). Turn this clockwise until it doesn't die when you break.

joeyhatch11

Michelle, reading the Manual will help you for most of your break in, set up and fine tunning options. I find it a lot eaiser to go on YouTube and watch some video's on Nitro Engine Break In or even Fine Tuning. Here's a link: http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=...od&view=videos

Anything you need to know about the engine, break in, or fine tunning can be learned from watching these videos. He has a 10 video series about engine break-in. You'll find it to be 100% useful. It's easier to see what someones talking about than reading it in a book. Good luck.

chrsfincher

can sum one put a link to the spur gears for the tornado bb, i stripped the gears and need new ones and want to get the upgraded clutch stuff on page one so if u can find them on towerhobbies i would appreciate it so i can save on shipping. really want to get it back running i had lots of fun just running it up and down the road

bdobson

hey guys will the fuel filter i have lower the performance?
also any one have the dx 2.0? if so and have the tornado buggy what do u recommend for trim settings?

joeyhatch11

having a fuel filter on your fuel line should have NO effect on your buggys performance. But I can't halp you with the DX2.0 question.

joeyhatch11

Hey Chrsfincher, here is two links to RedCats web-site for the Spur Gears you need. The 47T is for second gear and the 42T is your first gear.

http://shopping.netsuite.com/s.nl/c....d.501/.f?sc=14
http://shopping.netsuite.com/s.nl/c....d.502/.f?sc=14

bdobson

thanks

Arkangel666

Hey, I am looking into getting the Tornado bb Any thing i should look out for and what is the best nitro %?

joeyhatch11

You can never go wrong with 20% nitro. You'll get some mixed answer on that topic but for the most part, 20% will do. Other than that, you may want to grab yourself a few extra spur gears. The two listed be me on the top of page 127 are what you need. Good luck and have fun.

bdobson

hey gey wondering if this glow plug is ok to use on my tornado buggy its a mccoy mc 59 1 1/2 volt the buggy is 1/10 scale

joeyhatch11

Do you have a link to it? Should be good though, all the glow ignitors I've been looking at are 1.5v because they are a sub-C cell and that's all they'll hold. You may find some that hold a D cell but not too common I think. I just bought a Hpi glow ignitor off Ebay with a Volt Meter and wall charger. Here's a link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-Pro-Glow-Plu...3A1%7C294%3A50

bdobson

no had it givin too me the hobby shop know my ride type but not me yet but ya mine is a d cell what does that meen i know hot, cold ect but not that?

joeyhatch11

D cell is the size of the battery used in your glow ignitor. I thought D cells would hold more voltage but I just check a few websites that offer rechargeable D cell batteries and they are all 1.2volts like the C cell's. No biggie though

vette_man62

I have ran about 1/2 gal of fuel through my car...and now it will not stay running after the initial primer fuel is exhausted. I feel I am not gettting the proper exhaust pressure to push the fuel through because when I disconnect the hose from the muffler and blow in it to provide pressure...the car runs fine...but when I hook the hose back
up to the muffler...the car dies. I did knocked the muffler off in an accident and had to re-attach it (pulled out from the rubber grommet so i re-attached with new wire ties) but it seemed to re-attach fine and ran fine for a litte while afterwards...but shortly after is when I stared having probelms. ANY help or suggestion would be greatly appriciated!
Thanks.

amf66

By rubber grommet do you mean the piece of silicone that couples it to the manifold? If so you need to get a new exhaust coupler and reattach it with some zip ties.

vette_man62

Yes the exhaust coupler seemed to be fine so i just reattached with zip ties...everything looks fine...just will not stay running?

amf66

Another thing to check is the fuel tank and the fuel lines. You may have an air leak somewhere in the fuel lines, fuel tank, or the carberator. Put some soapy water on the carb and blow through the exhaust line without any fuel in the tank and see if you see any bubbles. You can also try this around the fuel tank lid. If bubbles form while you are blowing then you have an air leak.

joeyhatch11

If it stays running with the tube undone from the exhaust, why not leave it like that?

amf66

Because to keep it running with the pressure line unattached he has to blow into it.