amf66

First take off the air filter and look into the carb. When you apply the breaks the opening sould be about 1 mm. Turn the screw ccw for faster idle (bigger opening) and cw for slower idle and a smaller opening.

clontz_wi64

ahhhh but what about the gear?? does it fit too??

so would i be able to use the mt2 shaft, slipper clutch, and gear?? or will that gear fit..... and is it even a metal gear?

clontz_wi64

i guess i'll use their single speed from red cat but a jato 3.3 engine and clutch bell

probly a 14t with the tire/wheel i'm using..... not as big as a truggy's but bigger than stock

breezerboat

I must be a freaking idiot. I have a redcat lightning and seem to have it out of tune and dont know what the hell I'm doing. I wish I could get it to it's factory setting again. And I really wish I had not started messing with those tuning needles. CRAP.

joeyhatch11

HSN- 2 3/4
LSN- Either 2 or 1 3/4
Idle- 1mm gap ( dont know turns on that one)

That'll bring you back to stock.

breezerboat

thank you so much. I got it working again. I am so happy it's not all screwed up.

joeyhatch11

Not a problem. Glad I could help

skyjake

Setup Problems - Wheels Spin even though idle scree is down all of the way. We also tried to adjust the speed needles.

We are in the process of breaking in the engine. Have run one tank of gas. Now ready to do the figure 8's, but cannot until the engine is running and the wheels are not spinning.

Thanks for your help.

chevyderek72

Ok put your needles to factory settings

Hsn- 2.5-3 turns out
Lsn- flush with the collar
And then put your idle to about 1mm gap, take your air filter off and make sure the gap is about 1mm.

Make sure when your braeking in your engine gets to at least 200, but no too hott. You wanna run it rich and give it extra fuel, but not too much.

Your idle should be good at those settings, also pull on the pull cord, if the wheels wanna turn with it then your clutch spring is broke. OR if your car wont stay on unless moving its broken

joeyhatch11

With the needles set right and the wheels still wanna move turn your LSN needle out 1/8 turn. You'll notice later once your done break in and tunning for performance, that when you turn you LSN in it'll also bring the rpm's up. Which is fine as long as your still getting performance out of it. Once you done adjusting you high and low speed needles, turn out you IDLE set screw till it has a nice easy idle to it. But for now, just turn you LSN out a hair.

While breaking in my sh .18 my buggy kept creaping on me. I turned out my LSN and it calmed it down till I was done break in.

el_tonto

I think "Down" all the way would raise the idle. You want to back the screw out to lower the idle.

Turn your clutch bell by hand there should be no metal-on-metal rubbing feel or anything like. If there is then the clutch spring might be busted causing the clutch to be always engaged. In which case it'll never idle low enough not to spin the wheels. Busted clutch spring happened to me at break in.

joeyhatch11

Need some help guys. Need to know what you think. Here's is a link of a thread I started and need some help getting answers. Thanks, Joe

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_84...tm.htm#8458510

clontz_wi64

well i started on my 3.3 trx 1/10 tornado today...... alot of parts are on the way...... not the stock one thats my daily beater... new purple skid plate is the project one

plans: anodized purple aluminum- plate, links, fuel and air filter, control arms, window screen, and wheeels
6kg high torque servos, 3.3 jato motor, stock differentials, single speed trans from red cat [] possibly mt2 trans
fm radio with stub antenna
jato piggy tailed upgraded jato shocks
possibly truggy wheel and tire.... little bigger than stock rears
dark silver(charcoal metalic with anodized purple screen for window cut outs
carbon fiber wing and race pipe[8D]

it should be a good build and will take a 4-5 more weeks til completion because i'm buying a truck this week from my shop i work for

here is my work table in my room i made with some custom shelves along with my stock vx.18 tornado with a taste of my purple screen in the front window and my traxxas bandit anaconda wheel/tire combo

joeyhatch11

Are the Traxxas Jato shock a perfect fit for these buggies? I really need some new shock. I added some thicker oil to them and even used a couple of those black spacers they give you to help stiffen it up. But she's still all over the place. I think it's more the sring than it is the shock. Any suggestions?

clontz_wi64

they are suppose to be....... and should be a good upgrade from the stock ones

get piggy tailed dampening design....[8D]

rclynx

If you don't like the arm throw then get some shock stoppers, that will stiffen it up for you [:-]

joeyhatch11

What do you mean, "shock stoppers"? You talking about those black spacers that clip on around the shock?

el_tonto

The black spacers are for setting preload (ride height) not spring stiffness. They don't make the springs any stiffer. If you place so many in that you lose any static droop then you end up with a very bouncy ride.

If you want stiffer springs, then buy stiffer springs! The Jato ones might be good, I don't really know how stiff they are. Most Stadium trucks and the like have fairly soft springs, you might need to look into shocks intended for a heavier truck.

joeyhatch11

Looking into the Kyosho DMB shocks. I've been told there a direct fit and work nicely

rclynx

[link=http://xtm-dealer.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=149746]Shock Bump Stops[/link]

They go over the shock shafts [:-]

jambafromhell

hey, i can over my receiver wire becouse i did not have the cover on, i soldered the 2 wires back together and did not cut any thing will i loose range?

jambafromhell

oh, and are u guys having to put the brake on just barely during idle to stop it from inching forward. My idle skrew is all they way closed so...... is my clutch spring shot?

joeyhatch11

With the Idle screw closed, shouldn't that bring up the RPM? I know on my sh .18 it does. Turning it out lowers it. That may be your problem there. If not then it would only take a few minutes to get the motor out and the clutch bell off to see if the spring is broke. Simple fix really. Good luck

rclynx

It should be OK its the length of the wire that is important for the signal............it can be just as bad if its to long as to short though. Do a field test and make sure its working and for heavens sake put a fail safe on it [&o]

If your idle screw is backed out all the way it should shut off [&:] if your getting a low idle and its still trying to move......the clutch would be the first place to look [:-]

jambafromhell

ya sorry its all the way backed out