Hi all

I've tried to find prior threads in this forum on this subject (I know there must be some) with no luck so far, so I decided to go ahead and post. What I need are detailed steps that outline the break in process for a Nitro engine, I'm sure I could find other sources for this but I though I'd ask you guys. If you can point me to posts which outline the process in detail that would be great to. I need as much detail as possible covering every aspect of the break in process. If one or more you experts want to spell it out for me please do so. Thanks again.

Go here http://www.redcatracing.com/quickstart.pdf ITS IN THE MANUAL TO.

And hear is the heat method

from rc driver

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=397]Nitro engine break in[/link]

The heat cycle is by far the best way.

The redcat "quick start" guide needs a bit of re-working since there is some information that isn't clear and some of it is incorrect.

Thanks guys.


I read the RCuniverse review of the Avalanche and it said that new owners should not follow the break in process in the guide because it wasn't very good, he outlined the steps he took to break in the engine but they lacked the detail I need ( thats understandable he was doing a review not a tutorial), he suggested though that new owners come here to get instructions on how it should be done. Soooo I'm kinda stuck now, was he wrong about the instructions that came with the truck? You guys are saying I can follow those guidlines?

As with everything r/c related, everyone has their own way of doing things and theories on the best way something should be done. Using the process in the quick start guide is more than adequate to break in your motor.

This is straight out of SH's engine manual:

http://www.shengines.com/PTF/21-28-I...tion-BUGGY.pdf

i have heard conflicting info on how to break in a nitro engine. i have been told run 5 tanks through it doing semi circles, let it idle in one spot ( air cooled engine, do not advise), i have also heard you nedd to run about 15 tanks through to break it in properly. i think the main thing to do is get the engine hot enough on each run and to keep a steady temp of about 210-250 degrees F. this info comes from a long time friend who has been in the hobby about 10 years. i am going to follow his way of breaking in the engine and go from there. i would say at least 8-10 tanks making sure the engine temp stays within limits. too hot and the engine will ceize and too cold you could blow a conrod. just my little bit of 3rd party info that i deem valuable to a noob since i am one as well. get as much info as you can from friend and this forum and happy bashing

Every manufacturer has there own method of break in, I suggest you use it to the letter. The proper break in for the SH motors works extreemly well and if you don't know what that is go to [link=http://www.shengines.com/]SH ENGINES INFO HERE[/link] and thats that [&o]

well put john lol.

Thanks guys for you help and input.

No prob.

There may be an update to the quickstart PDF sometime soon. More detailed and goes a little more in depth.

OK

I am just finally getting into the beak-in process. I had a few set backs. OK so I've run about 3 or 4 tanks of fuel through the truck on idle. The problem is that it never got to the proper operatering temp, in fact the temp never rose above 85 degrees F. In addition it would not run with out the igniter, if I removed it the engine would stall, and if I even touched the throttle it would stall. Anyone have any ideas on whats going on?

85 degrees F? How the heck is that possible? Even with it just at idle should run hotter than that.

I say get a hotter glow plug.
Also sounds like your running way too rich.

I know it sounds werd but the engine head never really got hot to the touch, I was looking at the temp read out and it was at about 75 for the longest time, I thought something was wrong with it so I touched the engine head and it felt just about that temp. I would agree that maybe I am running too rich so I'll lean it out on my next run today. Because I can see fuel coming out of the tail pipe.

Now does that also explain why when I remove the igniter the engine stalls, and how come it stalls if I give it a little throttle?

** I must also mention that it wasn't all that hot out side I believe it was about 65 or so and windy so maybe that had something to do with it.

The best break-in meathd for a brand new engine is the heat-cycling method. The initial description was laid out in excellent detail by Fuelman, but HPI_Apollo reiterated it into a comprehensive thread in the engine forum. Check out the following thread:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5517128/tm.htm

Though the engine instructions are different from the heat-cycling method, Fuelman has provided some examples of his engines lasting to more than a dozen gallons of fuel. Many of us who have used the heat-cycling method have been able to reach 10gallons of fuel (and that is a really long time, 10gallons for the casual weekend RC fan can actually take months to wear out the engine).

I' have to agree with savage, thats the way I broke my hurricane,monsoon and cheetah in and they have been running faster and faster each only have about a gallon through them but doing the heat-cycling method seems to work well.Being sure to be bdc when done doing any breakin or any bash fest and use after run even if it's one drop. I ran all 3 of my trucks fairly rich during the first tank at idle, I'd do the figure 8 thing for one tank then I started to lean it out abit, and all my trucks start with 1 to 2 pulls to start up and they sound awesome. I did change my plugs after break in, but you don't have to, take them out and plug them into your plug egniter if they light up right away it's still good.