Hello all, just needed a little help on a few small things to start with since Ijust purchsed myself an Avalanche XP, and as Iwas looking through the manual, it says to "adjust the clutch bell" and from what I gathered, it was improperly worded in the manual, but Iget the gist of what I'm supposed to do. My questions are these though.... first off, do you need to adjust the clutch bell or should it have come adjusted from the factory?Irolled it on the ground, did the "1/2inch by 6inch" paper trick to check the space, and it all seemed good, am Ipossibly missing something?And secondly, when I loosen those screws, am Iactually supposed to remove them to put the loc-tite on the threads and then do the adjustment?Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

if you are talking about adjusting the gear mesh (space between the clutch bell and the spur gear).
yes, you must loosen and remove the engine screws and apply blue loc-tite to them.
as far as i know, the gear mesh does not come set from the factory on any nitro r/c so you're best bet is to set it using the sheet opf paper method.
you want to feed the paper in between the gears, and then come back out with the pattern of the gears imprinted in it. the paper will look wrinkled, have a zig-zag pattern and should not be torn when the mesh is right. feed the paper in between the gears, slide the engine over towards the spur gear, and turn the clutch bell to make sure that it isn't too tight on the paper. you should be able to turn the clutchbell with your fingers and the paper should be snug between the 2 gears. snug the engine screws a bit, and check the paper again. it usually takes a few tries the first time because you may not be sure exactly how it should feel.
i would remove all 4 engine mount screws first and put loc-tite on them, put them back in loose enough so that you can still slide the motor.
set the mesh with the paper, and tighten the screws. double check the mesh after you have tightend the screws because sometimes the motor will move a little when you fully tighten the screws down.  you may have to try and set the mesh 4-5 times before you get it right. it may keep ending up too tight or too loose when you tighten the engine screws. just have patience, and always double or triple check it with paper once you get the screws tightened down.
correct gear mesh is very important. it means that you may only be able to run it once and chewing up the spur gear if the mesh isn't right, or running it for a very long time on the original spur gear.
I'm still on the original spur gear in my volcano, and i just cracked open my second gallon of fuel.
you should check the "how to" videos here...there may be a video showing how to set the gear mesh with paper.
that way, it will give you a visual to make it a little more understanding.
hope this helps you out.

YOU'REAWESOME, THANKYOUSOMUCH!!!!
I'll look for those videoes to make sure I'm doing it right, but oddly enough, it really did seem like (leaving the impression and all) that it's set up right. If that's the case, would Ibe able to take out one screw at a time and add some loctite to them, or do you think the adjustment will go off?

you should be able to do them one scew at a time, but i would double check the mesh after you put each screw back in.
sure, a new spur gear is only a couple of bucks, but if you can save yourself the aggrovation of having to replace it, your best bet is to check and double check the gear mesh. also, after you run it a few times, check it again because the spur gear will wear a little bit. i alwys check my gear mesh after every 2-3 runs just to make sure nothing has moved (like the engine).
some guys never check the gear mesh on their new cars / trucks, and then complain that the spur gear gets chewed up during break in.
i am by no means an expert at this, my volcano is my very first nitro r/c and i've had it since jan. 2009.
i've messed with electric r/c's for a long time, and nitro is a whole different ball game.
i've leared a ton from reading stuff here, and from experience of messing with my volcano.

Hello,

I was wondering if you could help me out seeing as I can find any info on this matter. Hello,

My question is when I tighten the hex screw the clutch bell tighten up as well. Isn't it suppose to spin free or is it supoose to tight with the fly wheel? I have seen on youtube that a bell is suppose to spin free. Do you know where I can get a pic that show how the washer and spacer are to be arranged? I hope you can help me out cause I haven't been able to find any info about this wahtsoever.I'm getting very frustrated Thank you in advance.

I had the same problem, and I tightened the screw enough to where it would spin freely , backed it out and put some lock tight on it checked the spin again let it sit and havn't had any problems since.

I had the same problem, and I tightened the screw enough to where it would spin freely , backed it out and put some lock tight on it checked the spin again let it sit and havn't had any problems since.

It was a flywheel issue!!!

the gear mesh CAN be set at the factory...but its always good to double check it before running it....whenever I get a new rc I always check the mesh, and adjust if needed...then I remove one screw at a time (I do it in a x pattern but thats just me) and then put lock tite on the screws....after awhile u will get the feel of what the mesh should be by holding either the spur or clutcbell and rocking the other...

as far as a clutchbell not spinning freely when tightening the screw....never happened to me on a new rtr but I assume its possible....that would be a shimming problem

Thanks!!