RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

Iron Dogs screw idea is a good one. If you have the time it would be a plus. I have not done that and been fine with those metal ones. I will say after a while I ended up using a bigger fender washer as the smaller one started compressing the area too much. There is another area to look at and it is that slot at the front of the wing where it meets the bulkhead in the fuse, lets call it an alignment tab and slot. That tends to wear with vibration. I had many races on my WM Dagos and that was always a troubled area. I would for future use think about a 1/4x20 nylon, ot two in there for sure.
Just a thought.

Another area on the planes were the control horns in the ailerons. I had one bust through in a race as I exited #2 and it was ugly. What happened was the wood (balsa) cracked and it pulled loose where it mounts. I now use thin CA in and around that immediate area to protect it from extra stress of gold speeds. And yes I do hinge those gaps, top and bottom with vinyl, and it still stressed out at the horn.

I also usually just glassed the bottom of the wing since I am not doing any aerobatics with the plane. All the pressure from racing/landing was at the bottom.

From the two Hawkers I have seen fly, they are fast and goergous in the air. I hope to see yours doing well and tracking smoothly for many races.

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

This is an area of controversy. Many have run standard servos for years, and state they've never had a problem. Others state anything less than top/near-top of the line is a failure waiting to happen. In my opinion: standard servos are fine for Bronze; Higher-quality servos are a morejustifiable investmentfor Gold; but a good medium-quality ball-bearing servo will serve you well in Silver.

After a couple of unexplaned failures when usingstandard servos, I have gone the digital route, but still try to keep it reasonably inexpensive. The JR DS821 is a decent quality, readily available servo, for about $30 each,that would likely do well for you all-around. However, I also received a bunch of JRDS537 servos in some flight packs I bought a few years ago. Beings these have a little lower torque than the 821s, I use them in lieu of 821s for individual aileron servos. For the rudder, where I think a little more holding power is adventageous, I definitely use the DS821. Beings the elevator is likely undergoing the most strain (and I have lost my elevator control in a turn and found a stripped gear after the crash), I have begun to invest a little more for this servo. For elevator control, I am currently using an Airtronics 94162 digital high-torque, ball bearing, metal gear servo that comes out-of-the-box with a heavy duty control arm. These are available through Hobby People.

The picture below shows my current rudder and elevator setup forthe "Trinity-build" P-51 project I am currently working on.
And "YES" Skids, I DO realize that my servos are not actually screwed-in, nor are my linkages actually connected. Like my fuel tank, this is just a trial-fit.
(I just know you'd find a way to tease me about this, if I didn't "nip it in the bud", first. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...wink_smile.gif)

As you can see, I also prefer using carbon fiber rods toensure free-moving, yetflex-free linkages, withoutall the hassle of more carefully laying out an extensive internalbracing structure.

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

Thanks for the inputs gentlemen: Will be making adding CA to the control surface linkages to strengthen the wood. I will do some servo research and see what works. I am more of a Hitec man when it comes to servos.

Here is a video update on what I have been working on so far.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMhOzDPAriQ

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

Still hard at work on the Tempest. Just made a small video with some of the issues I came across with the Tempest.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIuOBqkSP58

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

Hey Jake,

Just watched your video. Looked like you had more than enough throw on the aileron without cutting anything. You aren't gong to be doing 3D with this plane are you? It does look like there is a pretty big gap in that hinge line however. You might want to think about some tape.

As far as covering goes, what are you planning to use to cover area where you glassed the center section?

Thanks, Terry

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

Ya, probably so, but little things like that kind of drive me nuts and the OCD in me won't leave it alone. I will be addressing the hinge gap so be on the lookout for an update on that. I went ahead and just used some Monokote Dove Gray on the bottom of the wing and it is a pretty close match. You will see in the next video. I already had the stuff sitting around and since it is on the bottom I am happy with how well it works. Plus the facts that at some point I may need to recover it in the future and I can keep the cost down with the materials I already have on hand. Work continues...

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

Iron Pup
I saw those servos with the screws half way out and almost called you at home to scold you on your set up.... then I read your post. So much for trying to help a buddy out....:D

Seriously now... to touch on a few things.
1. I haven't heard any rumors of a YS125... would love one, but I do not believe such a beast is in the works.
2. I run 120's on nitro and if you think the 115 shakes, try holding on to a 120 on a SOLID mount
3. My suggestion with regards to servos... I take ply (or some popsicle sticks), and glue them to the bottom of
the servo tray where the screws would attach. Thus making the area twice as thick for the screws to bite into.
Then drill the mount holes, insert screw, remove screw, run thin CA (no kicker), and let the glue soak into the wood.
Works for me.
4. I've known many "gold" pilots to run standard servos on 150+ MPH planes with no ill effect. I usually set up my planes with
a decent servo on the elevator, a plain servo on the rudder, and hitec 225mg's on the ailerons. I've heard many have had issue
with the 225's, but they seem to work OK for me. As for wear and tear caused by the motor.... I've had some race planes for
many years without the need for changes internallly.... as long as I can keep away from Speed the plane seems to last pretty well.

Jimmy Skids

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

As with everyone in this sport, until a problem happens to you and your investment, you are fine with what you normally do and how you set up your planes. But many of the "over engineering" pilots have gotten that way due to a loss of their efforts and money due to some failure.

I check glow plug tightness after every flight on all my racers now, cause I had one pop out on lap 10 and cause me to put the plane in at a bad spot.

I like many have gone to the line and went to start and, "no fire" , so now I check to see if the plug will lite before I go to the line.
- Im sure you all do this now as well for same reason.

I check prop tightness after every flight to avoid throwing one or allowing spinner to cut into prop.

I thin glue the control surface areas now to avoid stress failure there.

I foam mount all my 2.4 rx's as well as satelites. Why? Becuase I almost lost a 42% F1 Racer and did lose a WM gold warbird racer due to Rx failure. I dont think it was the rx's fault but rather that I just velcro'd it. These need foam to protect them just like 72Mghz did.

I had a full time racer tell me he pulls the glow plugs "out" and checks them cause he got a good reading due to a faulty starter one time. It would read good in the engine, but when he pulled it out, it wouldnt lite.

All these things and more I do from a personal loss due to "Not" doing them.

I have run standard sevos in my WM Gold planes as well. But on my higher end($$) gold planes I'm not going to risk it due to what others have had happen.

The way I look at it, other than from a safety point, "the more $$$ I have in it, the more I am willing to protect it, with-in my budget's capability".

Do what you feel comfortable with based on YOUR financial investment. All these guys have great experience levels and personal opinions that aught to be heard. But it comes down to your choice, your money, your convictions.

From a safety issue and history's lessons, I would do all I could, to secure the life span of these planes, and the personal safety of those in the area.

Its all the little things that makes a plane faster. Its all the little things that makes a plane last longer. Its all the litlle things that makes a plane safer.

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

I can agree with everything you have stated. Please don't read my post as an endorsement for "cheap" servos or safety short cuts. I as well build my planes with the intent of having it 1st be safe, 2nd hold up to the stress of racing, and lastly be fast.

Skids

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

I can agree with everything you have stated. Please don't read my post as an endorsement for "cheap" servos or safety short cuts. I as well build my planes with the intent of having it 1st be safe, 2nd hold up to the stress of racing, and lastly be fast.

Skids

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

Not at all skids,
I can see thru several posts you care as much about the "Whole" sport as anyones. That means you invest in both planes, set ups, safety and promotion of the sport in general. Im just hoping others will be reading these posts who are interested or will be soon and want to join us and be farther along at the start up than we were. Maybe they can avoid some of our "Hard Lessons".
I never in my posts try to offend or discredit others ideas, but bring in my perspective without being offensive. Text writing is a handicap there.

I have also used std servos as I stated, not to be cheap or short cut, but because, like you, felt they would be fine and were indeed.

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

Good idea on the servo tray Jimmy, I will go ahead and do that. Well I am thinking of going the 645MG route, for the ailerons and elevator. Does this sound like overkill for the ailerons?

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

Jake, IMO there is no such thing as overkill on servos. Like Jimmy I have settled on using the Hitec 225mg on ailerons mainly because standard size servos won't fit and the 225 has enough power and speed for the small ailerons. The centering does have something to be desired but with the small throws it is noticable but not really an issue. For elevator I use a 5645MG on both airplanes as well. Yes it has way more power then needed but it has good centering. I beleive that is the key and most standard/sport servos are going to fall short here. On elevator you need a servo that centers well. I have gone as far as to consider installing a couple JR 8611 servos just to see if there is an improvement. I guess the bottom line is that with proper mechanical set up a 45 oz standard servo will work without failing but will it have enough holding power and center well enough? Remember, each time you apply a control it is like hitting the brakes. How much time will you loose if you have to input 6 corrections because your servo isn't centering?

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

Good point. Are most people using a 4.8v or 6v on their Silver/Gold racers? I have been using a 4.8v Nicad for the past 3 years in Bronze without an issue. What is the consensus on batteries folks?

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

I run 6v or lifes on all race planes to maximize the torque. I have been running the 2000 mah btty's and they are way to big for my small stilettos which has all small, HTorque servos(4). They just dont draw any juice. But I know I am good for 8 flights w/o a charge.
:)

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

I never run anything other then 6V packs. Usually 1000 mah is enough. If running retracts you may want a little bigger. I have seen a few setups where the retracts actually stall the servo and power consumption goes way up. Good idea to have a little extra. The SAMs club do not allow lithium batteries on race planes.

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

If flying 2.4 then 6 volts is a must. Most my planes are set up on 6 volt 1100 nicads.... I try to keep everything the same.
Skids

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

Sounds like 6v is the way to go. While I still have some of your ears, what size fuel tank for a 115? 16 or 20oz?

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

16oz Hayes tank. Flight time 5-6 mins.
Skids

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

20 oz is way over kill. 16 oz is even an excess for racing needs, but it does give you some extra security if you are first up and last down, or if you set it too rich. 14 oz is still a safe place. You can even do it on an 11 oz tank but you better wait to start and be ready to land when race is over and I mean ready right now. I would use the 14 or 16.

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

16 it is. Thanks Guys!

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

Another Video Update: ;)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pS8FEtgL1n8

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

Hi Jake,

Enjoyed the video. Good call gluing the flaps IMO. I'd put a piece of tape over the gap on the bottom. I had a 1.40 in mine so I cut about an inch off the fire wall box and glued/pined in a 1/2" ply firewall. Not sure if you need to move your firewall back to fit the 1.10. The nice thing about that big ol' cowl is that the only holes I needed in it were for the exhaust, glow driver and needle valve. I did need a long neck glow driver though.

I never did get mine to roll right. I even shimmed the mounts to throw the wheels further forward and it would still nose over on landing. I hope you have better luck with that. Seeing yours is making me miss mine. It sure flew great!

Blessings, Terry

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

Hey Bud, You done with this yet?

RE: Getting a Tempest Ready For Silver
 

It is like 90% done. It is just on hold right now since my wife and I are in the middle of escrow in buying our first house!!! As soon as we move into our new home I will finish this bad boy up. I already got the servos installed so it is pretty much just getting the motor and motor mount.