OK, I've got my trainer fuse setup, getting my water rigging done, and I'm almost good to try my maiden off of water this weekend. However, when I was testing the structural integrity of the floats (OK, I was playing with them), I noticed that one of the screws kind of reamed out the hole it was in, and came loose. I could pull it out with my fingers. These are just plastic floats and the only hardware it came for mounting the struts to the floats were screws that you screwed directly into the plastic. I replaced the hardware that mounted to the fuse, but figured the screws in the floats would be OK. Guess I was wrong.

So I'm thinking that I could buy some threaded inserts or threaded post that I can epoxy into the holes I have. I'll probably replace the screws they gave me with new 6-32 ones from the hardware store too. Would this be the way to solve the problem? Is there something better? I'm looking for any and all advice that will keep me from loosing my place to the bottom of the lake [:'(]

----UPDATE----
Just thought you guys deserved a quick update, since you all helped make this a very happy birthday for me. Despite some trials and tribulations with my floats, I got them reinforced by sandwiching fiberglass between the float and thicker piece of plastic. So far, this seems to be doing the trick and none of the screws on the floats have loosened up since the addition. I was able to make a total of five successful flight. Plane is still in one piece, so that's good. The only thing I don't like is my pull-pull setup for my water rudder. I can't seem to get it dialed in just right, it always wants to travel one way better than the other. I was able to steer, but everything I read here is right, taxiing cross-wind can be a pain. Hopefully it's something I'll get the hang of. I'm attaching some pictures of my setup.

You might try using two pieces of ply per float. Maybe 2x2 x 3/16 and install blind nuts in the ply and glue the ply to the floats so that the head of the blind nut is sandwiched between the ply and the float. Just a thought.

Yep, I'm seriously considering the ply option. It appears that it would be the best option in my situation.

Plastic floats are not really considered an emerging technology. Are you sure that those did not come with ply or hardwood reinfocements INSIDE? The Falcon Trading/ModelFly/Hobby People floats have a wood spine inside the raised flat area on top of the float for just that reason.

Hold 'em up to a bright light. Stick a wire down the screw hole. DO whatever it takes to be sure that there is not already an inside reinforcement part. If not, PFM/ShoeGoo makes a pretty good adhesive for sticking ply to a slick surface. Put a glob on, slap on the ply plate, and tape it securely in place. Check it tomorrow and it will be >>Attached<<<.

Jim,

Yeah, I checked, and these floats have no reinforcement whatsoever on the inside. Pretty crummy design, but live and learn. In any event, I happened to test everything out today. Good news is, that the plane easily gets on step, flys off the water, and flys great in the air. Unfortunately, I haven't reinforced the plastic floats yet, so after 3 successful flights the holes were reamed out, and they were barely holding on, and my water rudder needs more work. But the thing flew, and with a little work I'll get her back in the air better than ever.

Glad to hear all went well for you . Hope you get those floats repaired and working well. Be sure to secure them well , I have seen floats come loose three times. It sure is tough landing with one or both floats just hanging by one strut.

Weeber-
Listen to Casey, he's a pro.
Just some questins:
What is your ship? A standard Hobbico Trainer, or Tower, they're all good.
What kind of floats to you have?
If you stripped the thread on the float plastic, then you have to use reinforcements.
There are ton's of float kits out there, and GP 40 size build ups, and GP ARF floats too.
My thread on H9 80" Cub .91, and 40 inch GP floats have good photos.
These are fiberglass floats have wooden inserts under the strut lines to mount to.
Don't fly with even ONE loose screw, it would be a big mistake
Good Luck!

>>Listen to Casey, he's a pro. <<
Can I show this to Mrs. Casey? She needs a good belly laugh.

But seriously, thanks for the nice words. I enjoy helping when I can.

Gluing on a ply reinforcing plate, scuff the plastic to break the glaze. Coarse steel wool would do nicely and it conforms better than sandpaper. It won't hurt to wipe the area down with a CLEAN cloth and rubbing alcohol. A fuel-soaked surface does not provide the optimal glue joint.

I still think I would use a flexible adhesive: I use Miracle Glue from Charlie's Hobbies in Tampa. I'm not sure what it really is, he gets it private labeled. PFM from Hobby Lobby is very similar, or Shoe Goo available at WallyWorld. Epoxy or Polyurethane(Gorilla Glue) would also work, but if the plastic flexes too much that joint could peel. PU would be the lightest choice.

I haven't seen your floats, but I would first consider one ply plate, long enough to take both the front and rear mounts, and extending an inch or so past the front mount to spread the load. It'll act as a "spine" to the float. If you are using some sort of pilow-blocks on top of the floats to attach the struts, glue them in place, too.

Bump for the update up top.

As for the reinforcement issue, I decided to be a little bit different. I cut some thicker plastic, scuffed up this plastic and the float. I then used epoxy and sandwiched some fiberglass between the float and the reinforcing plastic. So far this seems to be working well, the screws are holding after a couple of flights and everything is tight. Currently, I've only reinforced the front part of the floats. The back struts seem to be holding in the plastic fine. I think the back of these floats have thicker plastic, and there's less stress and vibration on these rear stuts to shake things loose. I'll reinfoce these back struts later if problems arise.