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waterproofing floats

Old 02-05-2003, 03:11 AM
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IndyFlyer-RCU
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Default waterproofing floats

I am building GP floats, and I have a question...

Can I waterproof the floats with a clear laquer and then monokote the floats? Will the monokote stick to anything?

I have never covered anything yet, so I don't know how monokote works...

Please help!
Old 02-05-2003, 08:23 PM
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Goinstraightup
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Default waterproofing floats

I built a set of Goldberg Superfloats for my Cloud Dancer 60 which are also built up floats. I was careful to fill and sand any cracks before covering them with Ultracote. I made sure there were no gaps then just covered them with the Ultracote. I never had a problem with water getting in. They always worked great!
Old 02-08-2003, 03:18 AM
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Default waterproofing floats

My brother and I both covered a set of GP floats with MonoKote and we had good luck. We first cut some 1/2 inch wide strips and used them to cover each joint (1/4 inch on each side). Then we covered each surface. This way we had 2 layers at each joint. Had no problems. Even used them on snow with good luck........Seaplane
Old 02-01-2014, 10:01 AM
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Jim Hargett
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I recently purchased a used set of Goldberg Super Floats, which were covered with a layer of
gray-colored MonoKote. The previous owner also applied a layer of clear MonoKote over the gray-colored
MonoKote.

My plan is to remove both layers of old MonoKote, fill and sand any cracks, apply a coat or two of silicon
sealant over all surfaces of the floats, cover with a new color of MonoKote, and then cover the new color with
a layer of clear MonoKote.

Is my plan sound? Am I leaving anything out? Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

jim
Old 02-01-2014, 04:09 PM
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Goinstraightup
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I built a set of these, filled cracks with filler, then just covered them with Ultracote. Worked great and I never had any problems.
Old 02-04-2014, 05:02 AM
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Jim Hargett
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Goinstraightup:

Thanks for your comment. Although some members of my club are encouraging me to fiberglass my floats,
I think I'll follow your suggestion instead, though I will likely apply a coat or two of silicone sealer before putting on
the MonoKote or UltraKote. Thanks again.

jim
Old 02-04-2014, 06:02 AM
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Jim, I do not know what kind of silicone sealer you are talking about using but I do know that most things will not stick to silicone and I am guessing monocote is one of them. I would use a different kind of sealer and stay away from the silicone if you ever want to put anything over the top of it again. I know that painters hate armorall because it has silicone in it and they can never seem to get it off before painting and paint won't stick to it. I have heard of using water based poly to seal the wood and then covering with monocote. I have done this with mixed results. I don't think I let the sealer dry enough and had problems with it bubbling under the monocote when I applied heat to it.

Last edited by flybyjohn; 02-04-2014 at 06:07 AM.
Old 02-04-2014, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Hargett View Post
I recently purchased a used set of Goldberg Super Floats, which were covered with a layer of
gray-colored MonoKote. The previous owner also applied a layer of clear MonoKote over the gray-colored
MonoKote.

My plan is to remove both layers of old MonoKote, fill and sand any cracks, apply a coat or two of silicon
sealant over all surfaces of the floats, cover with a new color of MonoKote, and then cover the new color with
a layer of clear MonoKote.

Is my plan sound? Am I leaving anything out? Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

jim

Originally Posted by flybyjohn View Post
Jim, I do not know what kind of silicone sealer you are talking about using but I do know that most things will not stick to silicone sealer and I am guessing monocote is one of them. I would use a different kind of sealer and stay away from the silicone if you ever want to put anything over the top of it again.
Nothing will stick to cured silicone. Not even silicone. I worked W/sealants in comercial glazing & the ONLY application where silicone was (correctly) used was metal/glass joints.

Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 02-04-2014 at 06:09 AM.
Old 02-07-2014, 05:09 PM
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Good ol' Pactra dope works well as a sealer and film coverings stick to it and WON'T come off.
Water Based PolyUrethane works well, too. Before you seal, Bondo or lightweight spackle fills the cracks, and the sealant seals the spackle so it won't get gooshy.

If you glass the floats, use your fingers the smear a thin but visible coat of spackle over the glass cloth, then take it down to the glass cloth with a fine sanding block.

In olden days we used to make a paste of Talcum powder and clear dope as a sealer/ filler, then sand that down slick before putting on the final gloss coat.
Old 02-07-2014, 06:14 PM
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Roger Gray
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Deft brand lacquer sanding sealer(sold by Lowe's) will seal and waterproof the wooden parts of a plane. Just stay away from any foam parts!
Old 02-08-2014, 06:10 AM
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Jim Hargett
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Jim and Roger:
Many thanks for your thoughtful advice!!! I am a total newbee when it comes to float flying,
so all the suggestion here help a lot. Just FYI, I have a set of Goldberg Superfloats (used but in
good shape) that I plan to install on a Goldberg Anniversary Cub with an OS 91 Surpass engine.

Thanks again. Jim


PS: Jim Casey: Just looked at your website. Wow!!! Very cool and extrememly useful!!!!
Old 02-08-2014, 01:59 PM
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Thanks for the kind words about the website. It has been so long since I updated it I have forgotten how.

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