Im looking to Build a Seaplane, preferrably something like a Seamaster because of its engine location. It would be cool if I could fly it off of land or water by way of convertible gear.

I have a Zenoah G20 that I would like to use. So Im guessing something in the 60-1.20 class of airframes.

Is there such thing available anywhere in either kit form or plans?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Matt

I love float planes and keep an eye out to snatch ones that I don't currently have.
I've never seen a float plane of that size.
The only thing I can suggest is to take the plans to a smaller float plane and blow them up.

Sounds like you are looking for a Seamaster 120. Doesn't Lanier offer a 120 sized seaplane?

http://lanierrc.com/lrcprivate/rcair...iner120arf.htm

Bill

Virtually any plane can be converted to a float plane. Planes I have flown on water include multiple Balsa USA Northstars, Balsa USA Stingray, Midwest 80" Citabria and Midwest 80" Extra 300XS. All you need to do is make up some floats that are appropriate for the size of your plane. For my bigger ones the floats end up being about the same size as a .40 - .60 size fuselage!

P&B sales has some huge planes. They cost a pretty penny though.
http://www.rcairplane.net/

Newc,

It's interesting that you posted those photos and the comment about your larger floats being about the size of a 40-60 fuse. I've been wanting to build a flying boat of my own design and have been thinking about the proper dimensions for the step and angles of the bow. I'm wondering how it would work if I built a 40 sized fuse, shaping the bottom like the bottom of a float. I think I need to put the CG at the same location that the CG would be on the set of floats. I'd also have to work out a rudder. I'm thinking I'd copy the wing from my SuperStar 40 wing, keeping the same chord so that the CG is the same location on the wing. For the first one, I think I'd copy the tail feathers and fuse length as well. Thoughts (anyone)?

Flying boats - Step goes at or slightly behind the CG.

Easiest water rudder is an air rudder that extends slightly below the water line, with a small ventral fin protecting it. Make the hull either flat bottom, or very shallow v-bottom. Hull size is dictated by the floatation you'll need.

High tail locations can help (horiz stab). T-tails are common. Low stab can be difficult to get prop wash over the elevator for the take-off run.

You can fly a Seamaster off of grass without wheels. I do it all the time

If you look at the video in this review, I've got some footage of me doing exactly that with a Seamaster 40

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=153

Matt:

IMHO, the best choice of aircraft (particularly for someone new to seaplanes) is to go with a very conventional, low wing, sport type aircraft that has a lot of wing area, and a set of floats that are big enough, but not too big.

I don't know the weight of a G-20, but I imagine it isn't all that much more than a 120 four stroke. If that's the case, I highly recommend a Sig 4*120. You can either build the floats yourself or buy them from various suppliers.

I have a Sig 4*60 with FlyBaby floats (RCM plans) powered by a 91 FS and it is the sweetest flying, most forgiving airplane I've ever had. It is absolutely great on the water. I can also remove the floats, fold up the water rudder, and bolt the landing gear back on for grass fields. Note the mods to the tail- I added area to the vertical surface by extending it below the fuse. Essential for adding floats to an a/c not designed for them. I also took pains to keep water out of the bird- I used bellow seals on all the pushrods.

You can see a build thread on this a/c at:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_44...tm.htm#4442961

By the way, it is not necessary to have a high mounted engine on a seaplane. A properly set up pair of floats keeps the engine high and dry. IMHO, high mounted engines are not worth the pitch trim problems associated with them.