I plan on putting floats on a GP trainer 60 (trike) for a visit to a relative that lives on a small lake. What kind of protection from water damage do I need to do? I seem to remember reading to put grease in exposed control rods to keep water out of the fuse, any opinions on this? Filter on carb intake?

Also do any manufacturers accomodation easy changes from floats back to wheels?

Thanks.

Up&Down

In a high-wing trainer, the protection you need to do for water damage is minimal....
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No, the more I think about it, Since this is apparently a short-term situation, don't do anything.

If you feel you MUST do SOMETHING, relocate your switch to inside the fuselage, activated with a wire pushrod (even a paper-clip). This way, splashes won't get inside the switch. You can do this in about 2 minutes. Most servo trays have provision for the switch mount already.

Just dry the plane out after you are finished. Remove the wing and check for water in the fuselage. It probably won't get any water in it if you don't dunk it.

A high-wing trainer will float on the wing if it is flipped over. your radio gear will stay dry, as long as the electronics are not located against the very bottom of the fuselge or the very top.

If you dunk it,

(1)pull the glo-plug and get the water out of the motor, then start the motor and let it run to dry out thoroughly.

(2)Check the foam around the tank and electronics-and if it is wet, remove it and dry it out on your workbench.

(3) if the foam around the receiver is wet, open the receiver case and set the receiver, battery pack, etc. in a warm dry place to dry before corrosion starts. The top of the hot water heater is a good bet.

Just don't leave the plane sitting around wet with the wing still in place. Pull the wing off and let air circulate in the fuselage to dry any moisture. This is true no matter HOW thoroughly sealed and waterproofed the plane is.

Topic B:
For easy changes from floats to wheels, make a T-strut for your front float mount. Snatch out the nose gear, replace with the T-strut, and the rear attach point for the floats is your existing main gear. see this link:
http://www.flyinglindy.homestead.com/skisandfloats.html

I have been flying a high wing trainer for a year occasionally on floats and don't use any special protection. I make sure things are dry after flying. Tomorrow I will probably dunk it, after writing this! So far no dunkings and nothing really wet.

Won't the T-strut will be a bit heavy for a 40 sized trainer...?
Most of trainers are nose heavy at the manufacturer's recommended CG. Do I have to move my battery all the way back to the tail...?
Just wondering...
Greetings

>>>Won't the T-strut will be a bit heavy for a 40 sized trainer...? <<<

You need SOMETHING to hold up the front of the plane.
The T-strut fits the existing nose gear bracket
It's probably not as heavy as adding a mounting block and a complete additional landing gear.
Remember, you remove the nose gear (which has a heavy coil in it) and the nose wheel. Be sure to disable the nose-gear steering when you install the T-strut.

I have also just soldered a brass tube on the front cross bar and then take off the nose wheel and slide the gear mount into the tube. a wheel collar and your done. You have to put a spacer under the tube to make clearance for the collar. Make sure you disconnect the steering arm !!!

Often you'll get spray of water into the area of the wing saddle of the fuse and the bottom of the wing. This transient water can ruin your radio equipment and soak your cabin. If there is the slightest amount of a gap, I would suggest adding a bead of silicone. My favorite to use is GE Clear Silicone for Household use. You're objective is to get some onto the fuse and not let it stick to the wing. So, do the following. Tape a generous piece of wax paper onto the surface of your wing, where it comes in contact with the fuse. This includes punching a hole in the L.E. area where a wing dowel may pass through, and allowing space for your torque rod of your aileron to pass. Apply a generous bead of silicon on the fuse surface where it comes in contact with the wing, then, mount the wing to the fuse. Screw it in, as if you were going to fly! Rubberband it, mount the 1/4 x 20 wing bolts, do it all. Using a gloved finger, wipe away the excess globs. Let it dry for 24 hours. Remove the wing, leaving the wax paper behind. Peel off the wax paper from the silicon, slowly. There you have it! Another tip is to keep all extensions, and radio connectins off the floor of the inside of the fuse. A friend suggested that I take my receiver, and zip-tie it to a fuselage cross piece, INVERTED ! I fly on salt water, just one droplet of salt water on a servo connection, and I'm in trouble. Now, all three of my planes have an inverted receiver. Lastly, the best flying tip I can give you is, fly it in for a landing! Never chop the throttle as your floats are about to touch the water - gradually drop the throttle stick just before your floats make contact.
Check my gallery below, if you need any float ideas.
Or, ask Fred Cronenwett, he's a pro.
Good luck,
Jim Soque