Hi!

Well this is my first fast electric...well it became mine..anyway...

Its a Schiada from DPI....
kit motor (700)
S3003 servo for rudder
MC230 ESC from futaba
7 cells battery

all was built per kit instruction, I just added water cooling.
My runtime is about 15minutes...sure it isnt fast...but well for a first "fast" electric..I shouldnt complain

Anyway, here a small video...and I feel like something is wrong....

The whole movie is at full throttle, I was alone, as nobody is using any kind of RC stuff near me...even better I used a 75mhz....and here in Japan nobody is using it..so it cant be interferences..I also tried different TX RX...all same...glitchering...and I feel like the prop is cavitating....
Tell me what you think...as I said (did I?) I am no pro...call me a noobie if you want.


http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=39148

Thanks
Wis


http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=39148

i'm at work, so i can't watch the videos...but it sounds like you don't have the capacitors on the motor to get rid of the interference generated by it. Did you put those on?

I'm just a noobie too...so this could be wrong.

I'm kinda new also and unfamiliar with your boat, but heres some ideas on things to check in addition to the caps on the motor. Make sure the prop shaft is not binding in the stuff tube and that it is well lubed. Disconnect the motor to shaft coupler and make sure the prop shaft turns freely with minimal resistance. Also how big is the prop? From the video it sounds like the motor is turning about 1/2 the RPM's it could/should on a 700 size motor. Did your ESC have a setup feature that needs to be performed? That boat looks similar in size to my Hammer EP. I have a 550 stock motor with 7 cells and I would say mine is roughly twice as fast as yours in the video. So I think something is wrong. Maybe you could take some pics of the boat to give us an idea what its set up like. Good luck and keep posting till you figure it out.

I had capacitors...but I took them away...and amazingly...I had less interference (I am still wondering)

The prop+shaft was already installed...but I double checked and re-lubed the thing.
The ESC was setup for the boat

some pics added:
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=39163

http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=39162

Thanks

Wis

Hi Wis,

The boat runs like a submerged drive on 7 cells should, speedwise.
Your motor may have a sticker on it saying 700, but judging by the size of the cells, it's a 600 at best.

You need the caps to keep interference low.

The second pic of the boat's interior holds the answer to your troubles; it's a mess, cable wise!

Keep all powerlines short and away from the antenna, receiver and servo/esc leads, as far apart as possible, I suspected as much from the video; when the boat gets further away from your transmitter, the interference from powerlines takes over and messes up a clean receiver signal.

Tidy up your cables and the boat should run fine.

What size prop do you run?
It looks a tad big.

Regards, Jan.

My boat is easily twice that fast with a 550 on 7-cells and submerged drive. I'm working on getting a video, but by looking at wismerhell's boat I would say mine is alot faster. Mine jumps out of the water and on plane in about 1-2 seconds and cruises good comparatively. That boat may be heavier than mine but everything else looks pretty comparable.

I agree that the wiring could be a problem with glitching. Also the wires are a mess and cleaning them up may help with the radio glitching. One other thing that might cause the glitching is the metal coupler from the motor to the prop shaft. Also Wis make sure there is a little play in the prop shaft. In other words you dont want it tight where it would cause binding. I would say that motor is definately not a 700 size. Maybe getting a nice new 550-600 size motor would be a good idea though.

heres my idea what you need
you need 3 caps & a schoty diode on the motor
schoty diode goes from the pos. to neg posts on motor, sivler band on the diode go s to the + side of the motor if you put in on backwards it just burns up
cap1 put post to post on the power posts on the motor
cap 2 power - post to the motor can
cap3 power + post to the motor can
this should stop all the glitching problems if not you nite need a plastic drive shaft
[&o] soldering to the motor can can be tricky
you may need to sand the spot alittle for the solder will stick to the motor can
oh also if its a new motor i may need to be broke in to seat the brushes
put a drop of oil on motor shaft next to the bushings & spin the motor a few times
this helps alot & makes it last longerfront & back
it may take as many as 7 full battery runs to break it in[&o]
good luck hopes this helps

Hi, Bash,

I have to agree with you that the boat is not blistering fast, but it is rather big, so it looks slower than a smaller boat with similar speed.
On the other hand, my 7 cell mono1 is quite a bit faster too.

Let's wait and see how all advice works out.

Regards, Jan.

well...

First thanks for all the advices...as I am now at work (dont tell the boss); I will use all our advices tonight....
I will post further pics after all the changes.

Again thanks.

oh and btw...what would be an upgrade motor wise?

Wis

Edit:

the motor was breaked in in water; then lubed! put some "special" motor oil as was specified.

new setup..better??
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=39188

Yes looks much better. The ESC battery and motor wires look a bit small, can you upgrade them to be the same size (or bigger) than the battery wires? A tip for you is to put your receiver in a balloon or waterproof it in someway. This might help if water gets into the boat. Also a good idea to water proof your servo. You can do this by running a bead of silicone around the seams, or dipping it in plasti-dip. Also I cant see the ESC. Is it waterproofed? There is some good info at www.offshoreelectrics.com just go there and click on the Tips and Info tab. There is lots of waterproofing and other tips that might help you. Keep up the good work.

thanks, but the servo is all ok...and I have NO water inside...the rx has been waterproofed just in case..old habit[8D].

I cant change the wire from the ESC...oh and btw, I still have lots of glitching...hmmm maybe it s time to go backward...and put a micro switch if the ESC is the troublemaker!?

Thanks anyway

Wis

It looks much better, but if you still have a lot of glitching, there must be something else wrong.

Try changing one component at the time, to eliminate the source of the glitching.

Regards, Jan.

Jan; thanks for the help...

I will continue to check...
found this :
http://www.*********.org/cars_stop-radio-glitching.htm

I ll try and see how it goes

Anyway thanks to all

Wis

I don't get it, I can see the video, but I can't view the pics???,,, all I get is an empty window?,,, does this boat have a 700 motor in it? if so, it needs to run on 12 cells minimum. If it's a 600 motor, then the prop must be the wrong size, what size is it?

well I dont know...could be 550 series 9V with fan cooled or 700 series 12V with fan cooled...

How to tell?

As for the pics....if you arent on high speed internet, they will need some time..sorry for the troubles

Wis

Measure the diameter; a 600 is 36-37mm in diameter, a 700 is about 44mm.

Regards, Jan.

thanks, so it ll be a 600, about 36mm a little bit over.

I think the interferences are coming from the esc....I might try a micro switch..but the boat will be more heavy..slower even....arghh....hmm maybe time to get another ESC

Wis

Hello wismerhell,

The problem is likely comming from your ESC. I had a similar problem with a different Futaba series ESC in one of my boats. Check the [link]http://futaba-rc.com[/link] website for a suitabe ESC replacement. They have a comparison chart there for "Older speed controllers." Choose one with the highest amp rating that will match your 600 series motor.

GulfstreamI

Guys,

Again thanks for the advices.

Here is what I did:
1. as suggested by Jan, I cleaned the cable mess.
2. I re-checked the shaft, lubed aso.
3. I wrapped aluminium around the RX, and cables around the ESC

RESULTS:

Much better...
I guess its my ESC

Thanks

Wis

PS: Jan, I didnt wet sanded the hull with 600...I used SAIL Kote

Good to hear there's improvement.

BTW, What's SAIL-Kote?

Regards, Jan.

As we all know, Waxc isnt the best thing to put on our hulls..makes the hull stick to the water...so I ve been using Sailkote for some time ....I am a sailor (RC and "real") and sailkote works nice....

http://www.888teammclube.com/frames/sailkote/index.html
http://www.mclube.com/frames/sailkote/tips.html
heres a link...on my rc sailing boats, I ve tested it many times....and its NOT making them slower!!! as for making them faster....well difficult to tell....I dont have ythe exact same boat....but on my electric, I feel like its a "littl" bit faster in the straight.

Again thanks

Wis

the futaba MC230 ESC has reverse. Do not put a schottky diode on a reversing ESC.....unless you have disable reverse in your setup mode. Putting that diode on there and using reverse will cause alot of damage