I looked all around for people who tricked out a zig zag to get Ideas, and I found nothing,
So today I dropped a 370 brushless motor CC25 speed control, and a dragonfly servo, hooked it up to my JR XS3 radio,
No test drives yet but The prop blows my hair back, with the stock battery pack, I'll post a picture

any Ideas to make this better, ? ? ?
last time I was on the water, It was being called a cerial box prize, Well I hope next time I will rooost there Nitros into submission.

Off shore electrics sells hop up kits for the zig zag
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/MainPage.htm

on the offshoreelectrisc forum someone put a bl in a zig zag.. try looking a few pages in like 2 or 3.

i think offshoreelectrics sells a 7 cell battery with a higher mah rating for the zig zag

im not sure if you will smoke the nitros but good luck. if you can, try to get a video or measure the ttop speed of your boat.

i got a zig zag when they first came out like in 2003 or 02. within like a month the electrics were freid. i must of gotten water in it. o well

Get rid of those battery connectors....actually if it were mine there would be some GP1100's in there, with actual battery bars, not tin spot-welded across the batts. Brushless motors need as much power as they can get, your batteries and connectors are it's biggest weak spot right now. Make all wires as short as they can possibly be! Resistance=more heat=less efficiency=less speed.

Good luck, let's see some vids!

Bryan

thats some power

Dude, you actually got a BRUSHLESS IN THAT THING??? SWEET!!!!!

My suggestion, go lipo. MUAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHA

I wanted to do this and still plan too
what motor did you use and how is the driveline holding up so far?
Nick

I was taught that the more resistance you have, the less current density delivered... which would mean LESS HEAT...but also, as you said, less power/speed.

In any case you are right about keeping the wires as short as possible.

The more resistance you have the more heat you will have, not less. That's why wires and connectors can get so hot they melt.

its true
I also know from experiance that brushless motors are happiest when they are getting the current they need
I just upgraded to GP1100 and noticed a huge difference in performance from my mamba 8000 in my 18T
They heat up when they are not as efficient (eg when a pack goes dead)
Nick

Just got back from vaccation, I was hoping to have a good time with this on the lake, well, IT"S too powerfull
I did replace the battery connectors to deans
I had to 5 minute apoxy the original motor pinion to the aftermarked pinion,
I had to apoxy all the drive shaft compontents together.
the motor was getting hot,, too hot, and I even glued the shaft of the motor to the pinion,
it still got melted or torqued off,
but as for control on the boat, trimming and steering, It was great,
I would like some sugestions on my drivetrain and maybe a slower rpm motor,
the motor in there now is a E-flite Park 370 really for an airplane 3600Kv
I did get the boat to open up a little bit. but the drivetrain couldn't hold up
I really didn't see anything other than upgrades for the battery and the prop, on the website,
I might have to go to the lathe and make something for this

Get rid of the plastic pieces on the motor and prop shaft and replace the stock rubber connector with a real one, something with set screws. How many cells is your motor rated for? If you can, drop the cell count and see if that improves driveablility.