Jkeith247

I just bought a NQD high wind 757 boat. This is my first boat and I just received it yesterday. The motors and battery get pretty hot while I am running the boat. Occasionally they will even smoke (not frequently though). Is this normal for this boat? The battery on this boat only lasts about 10 minutes tops. It s a 7.2 volt 1800mah battery. Is this normal? I am in the process of ordering new batteries for the boat. If I put a battery with a higher voltage in the boat, will it damage anything? Is it possible to install a water cooling system on this boat? Is this boat upgradeable at all? I am curious. I think I got a good deal on the boat, and would definetely like to upgrade it.

pompebled

Hi Keith,

I'm puzzled by the 757 in the boats description, it's the winged 30"boat, powered by two 380 motor's and "vector steering" isn't it?

Basically this hull is good and can be upgraded to a single 700 motor, flexshaft, seperate rudder, 12-14 cells.
Speed in the 22-25mph range.
This upgrade will set you back at least five NOD boats, if not more...

The stock motors are hard to watercool and when you say they smoke every now and then, I fear the damage will have been done...

Regards, Jan.

Jkeith247

Yes, you are right. The boat is the one with two 380 motors with the vector steering.
Thanks a lot for the information. When the motors smoke, it isnt terrible, if hardly at all. The motors are usually cool enough to touch. If I put a 700 motor in the boat, should I put two of them in? I do have a background in electrical engineering, so the wiring shouldn't be difficult. I havent really torn the boat apart yet though to look at the electronics inside the boat. When I replace the motors, will the electronics need to be replaced? When you say it will set me back 5 NOD boats, what exactly do you mean? I really appreciate your help in answering my questions. Where is a good place to buy all these parts?

rooski

Jan knows his stuff so listen to what he tells you.

I'd also like to add a couple of things as I also bought one of these boats for my daughter a while back (to keep her away from my boat of course ). Be careful with this hull as it is VERY thin and VERY brittle. You will have to strengthen not only the transom but the floor of the boat as well if you want to put a real motor in there. If the front of this boat takes a solid impact (shore, log, other boat) it will disintegrate.

Also, the motors in my daughter's boat faded quickly as well although I don't think they ever smoked. My plan is to put a single 540 motor in it and use my old Super Hawaii / Purple Light steerable outdrive on it. I'll use the Pro Boat waterproof ESC instead of the switch and of course I'll get rid of that "vector push nonsense" and go with a servo driven solution.

Lastly, if you want to finish off those little 380's, you could put in a 7-cell pack (8.4v) and watch them melt thru the hull

Search these forums for other threads on the "wing speed" boat as they are basically the same thing.

Good Luck

Nocturnal

I simply upgraded mine with two 480 motors. ($9.00 a piece). They are the same diameter as the stock motors but longer. So I cut out the back side of the mounts to let the motors hang off the back and they are in perfect alignment with the shaft. It made a big difference in speed.

pompebled

Hi Keith,

The parts I mentioned, you can get at www.offshoreelectrics.com (among others) mail Steven Vaccaro and tell him what you have in mind, he's a nice guy and will advice you on what to get. (then you'll know what I mean, regarding "setting you back...")

Basically one 700 motor is enough, though there are people who have crammed two in this hull, resulting in a very heavy, overpowered boat that is hardly drivable, there's info and video's on the single and twin 700 version, do a search.

Rooski is right on the hull, it needs reinforcing, once it's cleaned out, either by ABS sheeting, or glasscloth and epoxy resin.

It's quite a bit of work, but you'll end up with a very quick boat.

Regards, Jan.

Jkeith247

Thanks to everyone for the wonderful advice. I really appreciate it. If i replace the speed control, what else do I need to replace. I ran the boat this morning, and the electronics under the black cover were smoking. I fear that I will need to replace all of the electronics in the boat including the motors. So, what all will I need? I am going to take nocturnals advice and install two 480 motors. I would also like to install a rudder, a servo for the rudder, new propellers, and whatever other electronics I will need. Thanks again for everyones advice.

rooski

Running dual motors will decrease the available ESC's that you can use. Novak makes one (for the dual motor Villain EX) to name one.

If you are bound and determined to use 2 motors (I wouldn't) then go for the 480's. For efficiency AND noise reduction, I would put flex couplers (4mm to 1/8" I believe) between the motors and drive shafts. Get rid of those silly, loud plastic joints. You will also have to replicate the stock reversed wiring on one of the motors to handle the left handed prop rotation. Otherwise you will get bad torque steer. Did I mention you should probably use ONE good motor?

The stock drive shafts will dramatically limit your propeller choices as they are little 1/8" threaded units....someone else will have to pipe in regarding specific threaded props you could use. I would put flex shafts in teflon liners out the back to 3/16" drive dog units. This will be efficient, quiet, and allow many many prop options...although those motors (480's) won't handle much above 38mm.
REMEMBER...with a 2 motor set-up, you have to buy 2 of everything along the drive lines which can add up.

You will also need a real 2-ch radio sytem if you want to run a servo rudder set-up and an ESC. Get the Futaba 2-ch system (2PH-AM) for 41.99 at offshore electrics. You will have to build a servo bracket inside the back of the boat. As you will see, there are not a lot of places to screw things down back there.

For rudders, consider the one shown in the picture below...available at offshore for $9. Of couse you could get a nice milled aluminum unit too for a whole lot more $.

Before you do any of this stuff you should strengthen the transom on the outside AND on the inside to beef up the stock paper thin ABS. Get some Otey's ABS glue at Lowes/Home Depot to bond the ABS to your transom. You can get a sheet of ABS at Lowe's, which is disguised as a NO PARKING....or BEWARE OF DOG sign. Cut it with quality sissors or use a box cutter.

Good luck.

SJN

Have you seen my thread?

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3137775/tm.htm


Maybe it can help you out somewhat.....

hellomynameisdookie

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Jkeith247

Ok, I have a little update, I bought 2 400 permax motors and 2 graupner universal joint couplers. Everything seemed to go together easy, too easy. I ran the boat, and the couples keep slipping on the motor. It will run for about ten minutes and then the couplers start to slip, then I have to retighten them again. The hole in the coupler seems a little larger than the shaft of the motor, so I think the coupler is actually vibrating loose. Another thing that doesn't seem to help is the dinky little flat head screw in the coupler that I can hardly get tight enough to hold on to the motor with. I know the coupler is unbalanced, cause the boat buzzes like oprah's vibrator. Should I get new couplers? I spent 20 bucks on the couplers and really dont want to spend 20 more, any suggestions?

rooski

Sounds like you might have gotten the wrong couplers. Someone correct me if I am wrong...but don't those 400 motors have 1/8" shafts? Is that what you got for the motor side? Also, the flex couplers are much better than any universal joint...more expensive yes, but worth it.

Jkeith247

So, I was bored the other day and found a couple of extra battery connectors in my tool box. With carful thought decided to run 12 cells (two six cell packs 7.2V 30A 3300mah each). OMG! The boat is fast with 14.4 volts. Motors got a little hot, but to be expected. I know I will probably burn the motors out pretty fast running 14.4, but the motors were 10 bucks a piece. The motors are rated to handle 7.2 to 9.6 volts. So, if I am running two motors in series, with two batteries connected in series, what resistance will the dc motors provide, both motors arent recieving 14.4 volts, right?

Jkeith247

The motors I put in are done for, I burnt them out. I didnt' really expect anything less. So, I decided I am going to overhaul the boat. I am on limited funds, so it will probably take some time. I am going to start by cleaning the boat out and filling all the old holes with bondo. I will replace the two motors with one single watercooled brushed motor. And, I want to add a rudder with waterpickup. Does anyone have any recommendations on a motor and esc that will give me the most bang for the buck. I have two matched 6 cell packs at 3300mah and 7.2 volts a piece that I would like to run in series. Also, what prop and drivelines should I use if I am running 14.4 volts? Thank you everyone for the wonderful advice. I really appreciate it!!

pompebled

Hi Keith,

Get a 700SC, a flexshaft, strut and rudder from Offshore and a Jeti 600 Navy ESC.

Ask Steven Vaccaro what you need, he can help you out.
www.offshoreelectrics.com

Regards, Jan.

bwrk3

i need the boat to go fast with $400 can you help me

Chonburi

My Feedback: (7)

bwrk3 you have PM

rooski

Just a suggestion but....if you are going to put this much money into a boat, why not get a decent hull to start with. The High Wind hull is thin and brittle like an eggshell. I know, I have one (for my daughter) which I am turning into a decent (not fast) boat (540 motor, Proboat ESC, Super Hawaii steerable outdrive). With a brushless motor or even a 700, this boat would absolutely splinter on impact with anything at these speeds.

If money is no object and you don't mind having hundreds of dollars of components potentially sitting on the bottom of the pond, I would suggest the following parts:

700bb
Jeti 600
Speedmasters hardware (strut, rudder, flex shaft .130 , drive dog)
Graupner 45mm CF prop

Lastly, bondo is probably not the best thing to use for filling holes in a plastic or ABS hull. Tape over the outside of the hole with electrical tape then fill the inside with gel epoxy. Peel the tape off after the epoxy cures and you have a nice flat repair. Also, if you go thru with this you will need to massively beef up the transom with at least 2-3 sheets of ABS or the configuration I mentioned above will rip the eggshell stock transom apart. You'll also need to reinforce the floor of the hull to handle the motor torque as well. (see my previous post)

Good luck.

bwrk3

NQD High Wind 757 upgrade plus $400 help me

rooski

How did it get up to $400? Shouldn't have been that much unless you went BL

Nocturnal

Wow, what did you buy for that thing? I upgraded the motors and that was about $20.00. My kid is happy with it since the hull is plastic.

Clint_S

I just bought the NQD High Wind. Could anyone tell me how long the battery should be charged. The instruction sheet just said to charge the battery.

Thanks

Nocturnal

3 hours.

rooski

With the 250 ma wall wort charger that I presume came with your boat, I would charge it ~8 hours to start with (assuming it's the same cheap 1800 mah nicd that my daughter's boat came with). The battery should be warm when it's done charging. Also, in case you don't know....you need to discharge a nicd pack after using to avoid the "memory" effect.

Clint_S

Thanks!

It took about 7-8 hours before it was warm, so I thought something was wrong. I figured since it also had a car adapter, that it would charge fairly quick. So unless I take an 8 hour drive in the near future, the car charger is pretty much worthless.

I'm new to the hobby, but I assume I can buy a charger that will take less time and also buy additional 7.2v batteries at the local hobby stores? I'll be checking into it.

Thanks for the replies!
Clint