corey2424

My Feedback: (2)

THANKS kahen now do those batterys from offshoreelectrics fit in the villian ex they look a bit long and do you like these over th ib 4200s ?

kahnen

I've fit 7 cells made like that in my villian IV hull. Which is the same hull. You can email Steven, the owner of Offshore and he could verify though. As for better then IB4200. No idea, these are pretty new so not to much testing. I was just going on the praise they got from Steve of Battlepacks.com, a maker of battery packs for all sorts of applications.

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...84&postcount=9

hollylx88

i've got a little time before i'm gonna upgrade anything. i mostly deal with towerhobbies and a few LHS places. i might end up sticking with nimhs for a while, but i figured if i had the lipos for my truck it'd be nice to be able to bring them with me when i bring the boat out. the more batteries the better right? i'll just have to work my charger hard the night before. but both of those escs had lipo cut-offs? and with those paticular escs i would need to run a reciever pack because theres no BEC in there, correct?

kahnen

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPGN1&P=7

Use this for the LVC. I don't think there is any brushed esc that has a build in LVC so far. Some car escs might, don't know to many of those.

You will need to run a receiver pack for those escs above post, like you said no BEC.

hollylx88

well couldn't i run that module with the novak superduty? i mean i realize its only good for 16.8v but its not a huge deal to me. i think it'll go reliably fast with 14.4-16.8v, and some lower turn motors. like i said it'd just be nice to be able to also grab two 7.2v lipo packs when i bring the boat out.

kahnen

Yeah. The Superduty has two battery connectors right? If so you would need to run 2 of LVC to each battery and the will have to be the 2 cell ones. One LVC per 7.4 pack

hollylx88

gotcha. this won't be till maybe mid summer anyhow, but thanks for the info

aquinosteven

hey crazy max. ill take those 13 turns motors if you wanna strip them out. idk how much you want for them but i want them bad. i just got the evx 2 with the traxxas connecters so i can run them

aquinosteven

im thinking about upgrading to 19 turn motors. has anyone tryed these. if so how much of a diffrence do they make.

hollylx88

aquino, the evx2 will only run as low as 19 turns, i believe..

aquinosteven

thats only on the standard connectors. with the traxxas connectors you can go as low as 13

kahnen

Where does Traxxas say that? People have melted the stock connectors on stock motors, thats why people suggested deans plugs or now I suppose the Traxxas connectors if you talk with a Traxxas employee I can't believe just switching plugs allows a 6 turn drop in motors

aquinosteven

these plugs are the same as deans but they just look diffrent.

corey2424

My Feedback: (2)

Anyone here use ener G 4600mah 7 cell batteries? any good?

kahnen

Probably ask in the battery section and you'd get better/more opinions.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/forumid_84/tt.htm

donandmax

My Feedback: (2)

Deans connectors, Deans Connectors, That all I hear. Try the Traxxas connector that come with the ex boat and I'll gurantee you, you will play hell trying to burn these up, although with some of your crazy ideas and wasting money on mods that burn things up you may be able to but I'd bet the whole boat would burn up before these connectors would. Stop trying to go supersonic guys. Slow down a little and enjoy the summer day running your boats at reasonable speeds. Besides whats all the fuss about making the ex. go so fast. Its a cheap plastic hull that leaks so much it overpowers the autobailer and is really a wannabe submarine. Yes I've tried all the wing tape and other methods to try and keep the water out but after a couple laps it slows down and almost sinks.I've almost given up with this boat and its leaks. autobalers ? don't really know maybe they just don't work either. But they come in handy when the boat is full of water . You just point the bow straight up in the air and the water runs out of the auto bailer. So maybe there's one good reason to install them.

kahnen

I don't know to many FE boater that use an autobailer anyways. Your autobailer could be plugged so its not sealing right. I've never used one but that is the complaint all the time with them. Either something gets in there and holds the ball from closing or the ball is missing completely. Either way, just means a big ole hole in the hull that water comes in from.

I don't think the hull is "a cheap plastic hull" My hull(villain IV) is over 10 years old, yellowed but still the plastic is thick, strong and not brittle. The only thing I've had to do with it is reglue the seam(The origanal glue let go in a section after some wave bashing) maybe they've change the composition of the plastic but Traxxas doesn't seem to change anything with this boat, so I doubt it.

Water gets in the boat because there is no way to seal the hatch but they put in a radio box that can be sealed so the vitals don't get wet. Sounds like your problem is the autobailer not the boat. Take it out, repair the hole and enjoy.

Quicksilver

Amazing post, I dont know whether to be insulted or feel bad for you. So I'll adress the multitude of comments/questions.

-We use deans connectors, because they are the standard they are the plug you use when you dont want a fire......period. Maybe the new traxxas connectors are better, but I wouldnt bet on it, and wouldnt believe it till I saw a hot setup that got away using them.

-This I dont understand, why are you here if you feel like these are all "crazy" mods. New speed controls and motors are crazy? People who like toys and motorsports generally like to make whatever they own go faster, in the case of the villain, much faster. Generally speaking this part insults at least 75% of people on this board, the other 25%, I guess just want new batteries. ??? However the insult is lessened when one realizes these are poorly conceived, arrogant comments.

-Something sounds cheap, but it's not the boat. If you want to have fun this summer with your tame villain ex, I would think fixing your hull would be in order. If you're taping the hull and it still leaks you've got bigger problems. You've either got a bad crack in the hull seam, love going in reverse or have a leaking cooling line. No villain should have this problem and any leak is fixable, you just have to search the site, I've made many posts on this subject and made a thread about it, using a villain. Forget autobailers, theyre good if you do "crazy mods". They tend to leak when the boat is at rest and especially for4 the villain, when you put it in reverse.

The reason we mod villains...theyre big boats, theyre cool looking, they handle rough water and they have a lot of hidden potential. Me and Kahnen have probably pushed the modding envelop to the extreme, but once a few people do it, the rest of you dont have to work as hard to do yourself, since there are build guides now. In my case my builds are on 3 different sites and then on 3 different video upload sites. So if someone cant find info, they either didnt look very hard or have a very different plan.

quemazon

My Feedback: (1)

So, I'm thinking of getting a Villain. I have a lot of radios, batteries, and motors (550 sized) from other projects, so I don't want to buy new. I'm looking at the Villain (non EX) or the IV, just because they are a lot cheaper. If I install dual titan 550 motors and a good 14.4 V ESC, will it be the same as an EX? Does the EX come with higher quality hardware (shafts, props, linkages, etc.?) How about between the Villain and the IV? Thanks.

kahnen

If you got the 7.2 version and put the titans and an 14.4v esc it would be just like the EX. If you got the IV version and put the titans and a 14.4v esc it wouldn't be. The IV doesn't have a radio box, smaller stock props, Hatch holds down with 4 plastic nuts instead of the single big one on the EX. The stuffing tubes are just glued into the hull where the EX has some sort of rubber grummet that holds them in place. The motor mounts won't have the aluminum bracing. And different stickers The hull, hatch, outdrives and gears will all be the same though.

quemazon

My Feedback: (1)

Hey, thanks. Exactly the info I was looking for.

crazy maxx

your better of just getting the ex b/c the mods will cost how much you buy the damn boat for

Quicksilver

I just did some mods on my villain single drive 700sc. Extended the rudder stand off length by 1 1/4" and mocked up some turn fins. Let me know what you think.

quemazon

My Feedback: (1)

I don't think so. I have a couple of spare titan motors, and a 14.4V ESC. I can probably pick up a Villain 7.2 for around $120, shipped, and a IV for around $100. I doubt I'll get an EX for anywhere close to that price.

An EX for around $150, shipped, might be worth it, but I doubt I'll find that.

Thanks.

svanos

I need help with my Villain, please. We almost had an accident in the van today, and our boat got thrown forward after very hard braking. Only damage was the water pickup got broken off. I removed it and glued it back together, BUT, learned that the two screws holding it on had a backup piece. To access this backup piece required removing the black electronics tray, along with the two black rubber escapement grommets. I've already torn one trying to get them back in place and plan to order a few more from Traxxas tomorrow. But, can anyone give me any tips on how to get the tray back in and also get the servo arm grommets installed? For example, is it best to install them on the tray and try pulling them through the transom (with needle nose pliers)? Or is it best to install them in the transom and then try to pull them through the two holes in the electronics tray? Or is there another 'secret'? Any help appreciated.
Thanks, Steve