BUBBABOY333

haha alright thanks guys, and when you install the jet drives do you guys install it then seal or put the sealant on the bottom of the drive, install, then wipe extras?

also is there anyone selling the mesh covering with like the skid plate extending of the back?

BUBBABOY333

nothing but my receiver and servo has arrived so i started and finished my mount for my 2080 traxxas servo!!!

HERE is the album for my pictures because i dont know how to post pics on here. (Still Trying To Figure Out)

sundogz

But drilling two holes is much easier than removing and resealing the jet drive, don't you agree? Especially since holes need to be drilled for the water cooling lines anyways. Of course, if the pump leaks at the hull it should be removed/cleaned up and resealed anyways. I agree about socket head screws, they are much better than phillips head screws. A long hex ball driver makes changing motors a snap going in from the transom end.

MaximuM*AltitudE

I say drill the holes, I've removed my drive twice and hated it both times lol. I still haven't gotten it to seal fully this time. I'm thinking about splitting the hull and hot gluing the hell out of the drive lol.

Andeyking

i have this : http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=7360

MaximuM*AltitudE

It should, yes, the only thing that concerns me is the low voltage settings, none of them look high enough unless that is per cell...

llDemonll

@andeyking: that is a heavy battery. if your motor is less than 3400kv (assuming its ~2040 size) i would get a 3s battery less than 3000mah. if your motor is over 4000kv, i would go with a 2s battery but again not bigger than 3000mah. just my personal preference

@maximum altitude: yes, cutoffs are determined per-cell, not the sum of all cells

Andeyking

Thanks for the replys guys

wparsons

Well, shredded my impeller today... ARGH!

Haven't decided if/how I want to fix it yet, but I was having a blast today.  I found a section of river that was moving quite fast (took half throttle just to stay in place) and had lots of tricky sections to drive through.

Andeyking

I actually shredded myne the first ever time i used it, didnt even do any mods to it, before it was screwed, i got 2 replacement impellers fromCornwallmodelboatshttp://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/...upner_jet.html
The 19mm drive.
Althogh, you will have to turn down the drive shaft.
Or drill out your drive system.
I went for the drilling, and it worked a charm, i used a standard 3mm drill bit, and then once it was fully drilled, i "wiggled" the drill so it was drilled out to about 3.1 or 2
So it runs perfectly now.

MaximuM*AltitudE

I know lol, I work in the industry I just was looking at the voltage cutoffs and they didn't look right.

pmdevlin

amazes me why NQD will not offer spares (or upgrades for that matter) for all their boat range, they would make a killing. They have to make the bits for the boats, so no extra tooling. Imagine, off the shelf brushless upgrade kit, bearing kit, and of course impeller! I wonder if any of their staff read this?

SpeedDaemon

Had some fun at the pond the other day Have a look.

sundogz

I gotta admit, bashing is fun! Yee Haw! [sm=drowning.gif] [sm=punching.gif][sm=drowning.gif]

deeph_46

HI all,

Just had this jet boat and it's my first rc boat either. First thing I noticed was the radio[:@], hmm...taste good on hand but handling the boat somewhat little bit choppy(like there is a lipo cutoff voltage), steering had delay about 1second too but other than that it's a good boat
Ran the boat with original battery nimh 700mah, had 5 minutes run times. After that I'm using lipo 2000mah 20c, it was way way different way faster. I have about 1/2 - 45 minutes run times(maybe only half hours but it feels 45 minutes)....then I smelled something stink, I think I cooked the electronics lol
A short video after testing...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvulQCRI0dI

My q's,
1. does anyone protecting the hull? what do you use for it?
2. what should I do to the boat if I'm going to use brushless?


Tyo

MaximuM*AltitudE

All the stock electronics are garbage, get rid of em. Find yourself a brushless motor that fits your needs and fits the boat. There are a few out there, I went for a 28mm motor with a 3mm shaft because I already have a water jacket for it. I will have to drill out the coupler to the jet tho, it is 2.3mm originally. Watercooling is a MUST if you want it to last very long at all.

This thread is full of info and setups, I can assure you. I read almost all of it with my boat sitting on the desk before I ever tore into it. They don't call it a Tear Into for nothing!

similar

Hi there,

Your boat seems really slow. I understand it's stock standard, and I mean no disrespect, but straight out of the box my one was quicker than yours was cooking the electrics with the lipo. See here. This brings me wonder if a lot of the loss of prime issues posted here are based on the quality of the factory build. I don't seem to have any issues with losing prime at all. Sure, if the boat comes clean out of the water, or I spin it and get unit out of the water, it screams and gulps air, but pretty much as soon as it touches down again we're away. No bash plates, no trim tabs, no modified grills, it just goes, and goes good. 1:50 inthisvideo shows the unit coming out of the water and just coughing through a dribble of splashes before touching down getting right back into it. (Keep in mind the slowmo clips are running 7:1)

I know this doesn't really offer any help, but maybe some of us chance to get the good ones, while others don't. Quality control on a fifty dollar 'toy' can't be that high?

Monkeytail

Last weak i took my tear into apart after a lot of leaking around the Jet drive.

deeph_46

MaximuM*AltitudE, I have read some page back and forth and already gutted out the electronics right now...have brushless from my old heli with a 20mm motor 2.3mm shaft, I think I'm on the line. but there is no cooling on it, tried to make a coil, got only steel tube though.. hope it works like it should.

similar, I dont know if it makes a difference, but I charged standard battery with other charger that only charges for 2 hours. as on the box says it must be charged 4-6 hours with included charger. maybe this is the cause boat run slowmo.

MaximuM*AltitudE

Guys jet drives are very picky about the impeller/ring clearance. They need to be properly shimmed so the fit is near perfect in the "wear ring," which in this case there isn't a removable one like a 1:1 model. The space the impeller sits in must be smooth and the clearance has to be pretty tight for it to work properly.

Also, improper intake grates and anything else that can make water "tumble" and not flow smoothly into the impeller will hinder performance as well. The last thing I've noticed about these boats is they actually like to have a little weight in them to keep the jet down in the water and mine seems to carve better turns with the added weight.

llDemonll

monkeytail if that comes out well you should consider selling them =P

MaximuM*AltitudE

Is it an outrunner or inrunner? If it is an inrunner then you can get a 20mm cooling jacket for about $8 + shipping off flEbay!

Monkeytail

Don't know jet.
Making them is reallyexpensive.
It will cost a lot to make them.
And i don't know how he will turn out

Doesanyonehave an idea how to remove the roll bars????

JohnA24

The roll bars are held in with Phillips screws. I accessed them using a mirror and a small right angle screwdriver. They're in there snug and it wasn't easy.

John

deeph_46

inrunner one. I will look for the jacket but want to see my coil first

oh, my esc was for heli/aircraft and have seen many in here use it too. do you guys add water cooling on it?