carakter

1/16" wire? Isn't that going to wiggle / vibrate inside the stuffing tube? Did you replace the teflon tubing? 

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Im leaving the teflon in as is.

No it wont wiggle or vibrate. Its supported well at both ends and with the slight bend in the drive line it will eliminate and flexing.

Its a true upgrade for these boats.

carakter

Let us know wht results you get with the Eagle Tree logger ok.
If you can start testing from the stock setup . . . that would be great!

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

For now it will be stock motor and prop. I havent got a replacement in yet. Im sure I will upgrade the ESC as well, why not...

I will probably take the motor/esc to use in the little HK Cobra boat Im planning to build. Upgrading one boat = good excuse to build another... lol

wparsons

I found that on mine I had to loosen the prop nut, move the drive dog back (and tighten it well), then put the prop/nut back on. There is ALOTof binding in the stub if you pull it too far into the strut. After I did that, it spins very easily, even still connected to the motor.

The weather just cleared up here now (it was raining so hard, Icould've almost run it in the parking lot earlier!), so hopefully I get a couple runs in tonight after work. Mine is almost stock, x432 prop (well the OSE32mm plastic one, but it looks JUST like an x432), scuffed/trued ride surfaces, and Itrimmed the stuffing tube a bit to get the strut at a better angle. Out of the box it was about 1/2"too low, and had about 2-3*of positive angle. Now the hull sits level on a table when resting on the bottom of the strut, and it has almost no angle (might need some negative, we'll see after the test run).

I'm going to make some better ride pads for the sponsons as well, there's a good 1-2*of anhedral on the ride surfaces, which can't be good for anything. At the very least I'll flatten them out, or maybe add a very slight amount of dihedral.

carakter

That's a lot of work! How long have you had your boat?
If I started the hull work you proposed, I would probably have mine sitting on the shelf for a loooong time!

wparsons

That's a lot of work?  I did that all in about an hour the same night the boat arrived (two days ago).  Mine still hasn't seen water except a float test in the bathtub.  The weather today is looking much better though, so I'll get a couple runs in after work for sure.

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Im not sure on proper strut adjustment/setting so I will be needing that advice when I reassemble mine.

Anyone? Im sure there is a general rule of setup for Hydro's.

carakter

(quoted from detox, this procedure is summarized for the Aquacraft Miss Vegas but it should generally be the same)
This procedure details how you change the angle of attack - AOA.

" Here ya go:

With the Miss Vegas resting on setup board make sure strut is adjusted so that tub is level with set up board (rest boat on strut bottom and rear of sponsons). Then take a piece of 1/16" ply and slide it back under the front of sponson until it touches the ride surface. Measure the distance from where the 1/16" Ply Touches Front of Sponson to the Trailing Edge of the sponson. Using this method my UL-1 measures 1" from where the ply touches to the trailing edge of sponson.. On the Miss Vegas I would shoot for 1.375" measured distance.

Increasing the AOA by adding material to sponsons will also raise ride height at sponsons, so readjust by raising strut so that tub is level before taking new measurment.

You will probably have to add 1/8" to 1/4" balsa wood on sponson bottoms to achieve this angle. I glued on balsa wood using Devcon 2 ton epoxy then block sanded using course 80grit sandpaper wrapped around wood block (MDF board).

Warning: Adding too much AOA will cause the Hydro to run TOO LOOSE."

Rigger pictures courtesy of detox . . .

[img]{akamaiimageforum}/upfiles/416734/Lj21964.jpg[/img]

[img]{akamaiimageforum}/upfiles/416734/Ez81989.jpg[/img]

wparsons

Generally you want the flat surface of the tunnel area to be flat with the sponsons and bottom of the strut resting on a flat surface. You might have to make small adjustments, but that will get you in the ball park. How much angle you need on the strut will depend on the boat as well, and the balance point. Generally you don't want more than 1*of negative angle though.

wparsons

Finally got mine out for a first (and second) run today after work. Ran quite well, but the prop needs a bit more depth, and I still have a leak. All signs point to the water outlet, but I'm going to silicone EVERYTHING that might potentially leak.

Out of both runs, about 5.5-6 minutes each, I only put about 800mah back into the 2200mah packs. I can likely get 10 minutes of running out of this easily, and even with a 32mm prop everything was stone cold inside. I might still go with an x632, or maybe even an x435 depending how it runs once I get the strut height/angle better.

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

The death leak seems to be a very common issue with this boat.

I silicone sealed all the various parts and still had water. I think its coming up the stuffing tube. Since I now have a wire drive I will be removing the teflon and adding heat shrink around this connection point.

I need a small cap or something at the tip of the stuffing tube to keep water out of the hull.

Diesel Power

Hi Basstronics

Thanks for this input. I have concluded this boat should be called Mico bolt. BTW, the place you run your boats on is very beautiful.

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

I like to run at the local quarries. The water is crystal clear and very cold- best thing NO WEEDS! Bad thing- rock walls

Local ponds the water is muddy around here. Plus shallow with weeds.

wparsons

Did you get your wire drive from Jeff Wohlt? Where did you get the coupler for it? What size wire did you end up with?

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Wire drive and couple from Jeff.

1/8" Prop shaft, 1/16" .0625" wire.

Its a little expensive to do considering (About $30+ shipping) the MSRP on the boat is $110, but its a worthy investment.

carakter

Just wanted you all to know to be careful when ordering (if ever) from rcworldwide.com.hk.
I ordered two Octura props for the Bolt from them on Sept. 2.
Paid via Paypal. They did not even bother to ship my items.
Had to open a paypal dispute. Got my refund just today - Oct. 1.

Now I have to source for new props.
Shipping from OSE is just too expensive getting them here - $17.40 (shipping cost alone)
If you know of any store where I can get cheaper shipping, do let me know.
Guess my Bolt will just have to wait some more.[]

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Did you check out the selection at r2hobbies.com

Looks like they have some sort of knock off props. Quality unknown.

carakter

Nice site. Although the props they have are made of copper. Octura's are Copper, Berrylium & Titanium -hence the $2 price difference.
I already emailed Chris (Fine Design RC). I hope he can give me a good quote on the shipping.
I am still looking for where MiniCat sources their SS props for the Hydro.
Can't seem to find it. I do know it's from Tenshock.

Have you guys seen this video?
www.metacafe.com/watch/2505425/outrunner_bldc/

wparsons

I'm gonna check out the stock stub shaft on the mini rio, if it will work I'll get one of those, remove the stock flex and solder in my own wire. I think the flex/stub is like $5, and the coupler is like $3. I can probably do it for under $10 including the wire.

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

The MR is .047" wire. That will work. However the motor end is smaller I think?

Here is the measurements for the wire drive I have:

.125" prop shaft x 1.69" lg.
.062" wire
Length overall is 8"- cut to fit

Instead of solder use Loctite. I guess thats what Jeff uses. If he is using it and its holding up, then it will work for you as well. Should work well since the MR flex is .047"

madmax93

Just ran the boat this morning and it went pretty good, up on plane etc.
However I did get water in the hull like most of you, it's a good thing
I put the sponges in there. Only ran one batt. since I did nothing to
waterproof the receiver. I am thinking of going the corrosion x
route, but a ballon would be much cheaper and I'm all for cheap.

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

I was looking into this a bit more since Im getting back into this boat.

IMO I think this baby should be run on 4S power.

4s = 14.8V x 2604 = 38,592 RPM. That is the sweet spot for these Ive read.

3x = 11.1 x 2604 = 28,904 RPM- to slow.

I got some 2S batts laying around. Going to see if I can fit 1200 2S x 2 packs in there or not... hmmmm....

Now will the ESC handle the abuse? If not I would rather take it out and just use it in another boat instead of wasting it...

nickster46

as I mentioned a few pages ago: 4s is highly recommended for this boat. I run the stock motor on 4s (I can run full throttle without burning the motor). 3s is way too slow. I tried a higher kv motor on 3s and 4s but the higher kv motor was just getting my batts empty real fast and no big gains where introduced.
the stock esc won't handle 4s so you have to replace it before you burn it and that will cause the motor to burn too.
I have 2x 2s 1200mah batts, 2x 1000mah batts and have two Turnigy nano tech batts (2x 2s too) in order.

carakter

@madmax - If you seal her up and grease the shaft well, you should not get a drop of water inside.
I even had the boat flip on me (upside down for a few maybe 15mins.) and still no water inside.

So has anyone actually taken GPS readouts? I wish I had a radar gun . . .or a Eagle Tree . . .

@nickster - that Force Control esc has been taken off listing.
I did shoot him an email and he said he still has stock left.
I asked him to repost so I could order. Still waiting for the re-listing though.