Diesel6401

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Be careful running 5s on those 3.5mm stock motor/esc bullets. They have been known to de-solder on 5s leading to esc/motor failure.

Diesel6401

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Screw swimming and waiting. Make a rescue boat. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcU5gscReK0 & http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0pe_zJxAjbw her's the thread on the RIO and the RIG http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ad.php?t=16705

Diesel6401

My Feedback: (1)

Ithink the rig cost like $10 and comes in handy. Has saved many aboats, and is great when testing setups cause you can push the limits and not worry about flipping in case you push to far lol.

asupervee72

i almost got the proboat retrieval duck. I use a bottle tied to a fishing pole for my retrieval, works pretty well for the most part, as long as you can throw the bottle far enough. That video was at silver wood lake on the damn. I live in Hesperia but I was working in chino and living in Ontario for a little bit so i stumbled across that chino hills park. I would like to get into the Prado reserve because i know there is sanctioned events held there but i'm pretty sure its 5 or more bucks for parking over there as well plus the namba registration. I wouldn't mind going to carbon canyon

asupervee72

do you know what the difference between the m cut and the x cut is on the octura props? m series are detounged or something like that?

losifiend

I have an Apache sitting on my shelf. Now I know what to do with it Having a retrieval boat will make things much easier and allow me to get crazier with my speed boats [>:]

I've been to Silverwood. That's a nice lake.

The NAMBA registration is $40 for a year. Not bad IMO considering its like having insurance in case you hit someone with the boat. Equivalent to ROAR for land based RCs.

I'm thinking it may be worth to get the yearly pass to all state parks. It's $125 but you can access Silverwood, Prado, Lake Perris,and Carbon Canyon among other parks with ponds or lakes on the property as many times as you want. A friend told me Lake Hemit is pretty cool too. I don't mind traveling to run my boats. I usually take the family with me anyways so its usually a family affair. My wife doesn't mind and understands my insanity

res3567

Hey Diesel....we spoke on Off Shore....well yesterday....I was running my SV nitro and my dad his Rio.....I have the retrieval rig...but did not bring it.....figured I would watch the currents first....before I threw mine in....well I killed mine trying to bring it back in from running outta fuel.....but I screwed up and it was three feet from the shore....so I grabbed my dad's Rio for retrieval...and all was going good....untill the flexshaft came uncoupled!!!!! No need in going in to the story....took an hour and a boater to get them both out....what kinda collet.....and I do me COLLET can I get for the Rio Ep on Offshore that won't do what that stock one did??????....and you know what I am talking about............

asupervee72

125 for the whole year isn't bad and 40 for namba is reasonable for the insurance and everything. I may have found a soon to be fe boater last night. Turns out my friends girlfriends brother is a land rc geek but lives right on a lake and has been considering getting a boat. I showed him miss geico and he really liked it, gonna go run it with him later today. He lives in a community with a lake but you have to live there to be able to use the lake, its only 13 min from my house and i used to go there all the time until i started getting kicked out, but now that i know a member i'm good to go. It's always been an idea in the back of my head to get a little fe boat club going on around here just was never able to find any boaters in my area. Pretty excited about finally getting to run with some other boats after 2 yrs flying solo.

asupervee72

to the people that have done the rudder mod on page 3. was this mod to stop bouncing problems you were having. Does it affect steering? i really like the stock handling and think the rudder being in the thrust has something to do with its sharp cornering. Is there any speed gains, does the rudder somehow slow down the thrust with it being directly behind the prop? Mine is running perfectly straight and i had it trimmed out and riding without any bounce. Don't want to fix something that is not broken. What exactly are the benefits from this mod?

Diesel6401

My Feedback: (1)

To be honest I am still using the stock coupler, I just make sure I put some thread locker on the set screws andtightenedthem up real good and haven't had a issue. The stock motor is a 1/8 shaft and I can't remember what size the flex cable on that rio is, I think .130, but I can't remember. If it is any 1/8 to .130 coupler should workhttp://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...=oct-ocfhe1813

res3567

Thanks Diesel!

Diesel6401

My Feedback: (1)

correct

res3567

What is detounged and what does that do?

res3567

Which is better at retrieval? the Rio or Apache? I tried that setup with myBlast...XL-5, 12T Titan motor, with a Rio prop....burnt up the motor.....

losifiend

The titan 12T will not last. Don't know why. For a retrieval boat I would use a 27T motor or higher. You don't need it to be fast anyways. You need it to have the torque to push your stranded boat back to you without burning its self up.

res3567

Good deal....and makes sense...thank you sir!

asupervee72

not 100% but i believe the cut is supposed to allow higher rpm giving better top speed but not as much acceleration. The tounge is the area of the prop that scoop the water or whatever you want to call it, the leading edge. The thread props over in the general discussion forum has some good reading material on props.

Diesel6401

My Feedback: (1)

easiest way to say it is m props are same as x props just modded to remove a certain section that makes them slightly faster with temps a little bit lower then their x series counterparts. the apache with its steerable outdrive makes it a better rescue rig imo, its allows for better manuevering. like mentioned above the titan motor is not a good choice, you need more torque for pushing the pvc rig around and the downed boat, i have been thinking about trying high turn rock crawler motors for their torque valve, its not about how fast you recover the boat as long as you safely recover it.

res3567

Thanks supervee27.....Diesel....that is what my Blast has.... the steerable outdrive.......and my next question was gone be about the motor....rock crawler huh?????

losifiend

Yeah, a 55 turn motor, or higher, would do really good in a recovery boat. Might not even gut up on plane but will definitely have enough torque to move the rescue rig around just fine.

FrostyNutz

Hi folks !Iwanted to make my first postonRCU in this excellent thread. Lots of great information here with first hand experience to back it up . I'm new to the RC boating scene so I started looking for info onthe Miss Glast night ,,it appears I came to the right place

A friend if mine picked up a MG a few weeks ago . I'm 39 and he is 46 ,,,as soon as it hit thewaterwe were like 2 kids fighting over the controls LOL. Iwas so impressed with the thing Iorderded one for myself a few days ago! We were discussing the options for batteries and chargers last night and found it all a little overwhelming. Too many options with not enough experience to make an educated purchase . So , Iwouldlike to ask your opinionson a couple things .When I ordered the boat I asked the tech guy what Ishould get for a power supply. He suggestedaPassport Ultra AC/DC Chg/Cycle,, (2 ) G2 Li-Po 5500mAh 7.4V 35C, an escprogramming cardand a Chrg/Bal Two 2S as One 4S DEA cable.I was lost after 5mins talkn to the guy so Isaid, OK, ship it out

Did Ibuy the right tools for the job ? We have been flying RTFhelis for a few years but this high power rc boat stuff is all new to me . He gave me a couple cheaper options butI told him I wanted to do this right the firsttimeand get the mostout of my purchase. Ihope he didn't steer me wrong?

My buddy tells me last night that he has 20c 5000 lipos and didn't need to reprogram the esc to run them. He purchased his from Cool toys for bIg boys and they didn't mention any cable ..I told him it had to be done according to what i've read here butI wouldask you guys today anyway,, so ,,, how can we test the esc to confirm if it's been reprogrammed at the store ?How will it effect his Lipos if he doesn't reprogramthe esc ? What difference if any will we see between the 20c 5000 and the 35c 5500 Lipos in terms of speed and running time ?

Before Iput mine in the water is there anything Ishould do in terms of break-in ? ShouldIgrease it , how long for first run time ,what tolook for after first run ? I've read about taping the access panel soi'll be doing that every outing. I also read about replacing the connectors with 5.5mm bullets ,,,at what point should this be done ? Is it a must even for us newbs with stock power ? Please explain how to go from 2s to 5s or 6s and what needs to be done to retain reliability ? Were very competitive in everythingso upgrades will be happening on boths sides of the wharf.

Sorry for all the questions ,,it's going to be a fun hobby but it is nice to know ifi'm off to a good start . Thanks for any advise or suggestions you can offer .

Cheers

losifiend

FrostyNutz, I'm new to FE boats too but you might find my input useful. I have been playing with land based RC's and LiPos for a while now though.

Seems like he sold you the right charger and the 2S to one 4s cable is the balance board. I use a Checkpoint power supply with ether a Duratrax Ice or a MRC 989 for charging my LiPos and I balance them with a Common Sense plug in style balancer. The Ultra is nice because you don't need a separate power source like I do with my chargers. Something less to carry around.

As far as batteries anything over 5000 mah and 20C will work fine. I don't like paying markup so I buy the cheaper Chinese batteries from Hobby King for $17. 5000 mah 20c works fine for me.

As far as not needing to program it for LiPo, well, the manual says otherwise and warns of what can happen if you don't follow directions properly. I don't know what will happen to the ESC if it sees a higher voltage when programmed for a lesser, but also there is no LiPo cutoff so his batteries can be ran to low and he can damage them permanently. I bought the card and programmed mine. I wasn't leaving that up to chance. Other than running your batteries down and killing them there is no way of testing the ESC to see "if" they programmed it for him.

Difference in MAh and C rating? 5000x20C=100A continues. 5500x35C=192.5A continues. Obviously the more power on tap the better. Too much though and it can overload the system. As long as they are over 100A you will be fine. I have ran mine 4 times now with 5000 20C LiPos and have had no issues.

No "break it" necessary. Buy the Pro Boat marine grease and grease the shaft. Mine had no grease on the wire part or in the stuffing tube. Make sure all your metal to metal bolts have lock tight even if they have a ny-lock nut. Doesn't hurt to be overly cautious with a bit of Loctite.

The Connectors aren't really and issue considering the small gauge of the motor leads. If you want, unsolder, clean, and re solder the 3.5mm bullets on there to ensure you have a good bond. I did that to mine and my wires barely get warm. If everything came with 10 gauge wire then I would definitely say change them to 5mm.

DO NOT RUN 6S!! The boat is already a handful on 4S. People have run 5S by running a 3S pack of the same MAH and C rating as a 2S pack. But by what I hear they have disconnected the red lead from the ESC to the receiver and are using an external BEC or a receiver pack. Instead of going with a higher voltage I will be replacing the motor in mine to a Castle 1512 1800KV motor and a Castle Hydra 120A ESC on 4S. The added torque of the motor coupled with the higher RPMs should yield a faster, more efficient running boat.

This forum is kind of slow at times. If you want some good info go to [link]http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/index.php[/link] and sign up if you arent a member yet. I read through most the sub forums because I find good information regarding electronics, batteries, and props, everywhere on that forum.

Asking questions is how one learns. Like I tell my son, only dummies don't ask questions

Have fun and be safe! These things can get out of control very easily!!

Rafael

FrostyNutz

Thanks for the reply !Much appreciated Rafael ,,, great info

Can we use one card to programboth boats?

I'll check out that other site today !

Diesel6401

My Feedback: (1)

Yea that's what Iwas thinking, like a 55t novak should work nicely. With the rescue rig attached to the boat the boat never actually gets on plane the rig doesnt allow it to, and the rig doesn't allow it to cavatate either. Just slow and steedy lol and Imean slow. I think the stock pb motor and aq motor maybe around 27t but Im not really sure. For some reason that number just pops out to me like iread that before or something. The rio motor Ithink is the same motor in the aq bristal bay so it has some torque.

Diesel6401

My Feedback: (1)

First thing is to make sure all the hardware on the boat is tight, next make sure you have the proper direction flexcable. The first runs had the wrong direction flexcable installed in the boats. Next grease the shaft real good, I use grim racer grease. All the programming card does is turn the esc low voltage cut off "on" (that's it), which protects YOUR BATTERIES. Can you run with the lvc turned off of course you can but if you run to long you can damage your batteries. You being new I would suggest turn it on. If you need a card horizon hobby sells them for $19.99, which is a good investment. It also allows you to change the motor timing which will get you some more speed. When buying battereis always get the most mah and c rating you can efford I run 5000mah 40c, the higher the better because it's more amps the batts can supply. Don't let any tell you mah only means run time because that is not good advice. mah means a lot more than that. The batteries must supply enough amperage to handle the demands of the motor. I run hobbcity turnigy and zippy batteries and have had good luck with them. Never run this boat stock on 6s (the motor can take it, but the esc can not), start with 4s learn what your doing then move from their. I have run this boat and the blackjack (same motor/esc) on 5s many times with no issues but I don't recommend it to someone just starting off. In my MG video you can see both 4s and 5s runs on stock power. Changing all the connector to 5.5mm is a great start as well and get rid of those deans plugs asap. A good starting place for props is the grim racer 42x55 and the octura x642. I spend most of my time at OSE http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...splay.php?f=49 which is a amazing place for nformation and the desigen Darin Jordan is always their to answer questions. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsZmdN6FsIs

Yes one card can be used on any pb 45amp or 60amp esc!