gasfreak

My Feedback: (13)

Just wondering which exhaust pipe and header to run I have been running the one with the two 90 degree elbows in it the one that is pre bent is the one I want to go with wonder if it will perform like the one I was running better or worse

wayneuk

is that the whh wet pipe ?. what are they like iwas thinking of getting one

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

Not trying to knock MAJOR SMACKDOWN's products ( picture 2 ) , but , personally , I would choose door one ( picture one -wrap to front for vee's )
Or ....
best bet , if you have the room ( no cowl ) , then a 100 degree header would be best

gasfreak

My Feedback: (13)

that is great news I wanted to run the wrap to front it is going in a magnum 57 with through the hull exhaust yes the other one is the warehouse hobbies wet pipe and it always ran good with it on there but I think the other pipe would be better thats why I am asking
the new one is from hanson this is a CC Racing pro mod motor also if anyone thinks that will factor in maybe gain a little speed?

gasfreak

My Feedback: (13)

Its going in this hull

martno1fan

nice paint job ,yours or did it come like that?

gasfreak

My Feedback: (13)

I would love to say I did it but I bought it that way thanks I get a lot of compliments at the lake too

MrMikeG

The only pipe that MIGHT tune on that first header is a cooper short pipe. NO Hanson pipe will tune properly on that header!

gasfreak

My Feedback: (13)

what header would you reccomend remember I want to keep it through the hull even if I have to sacrifice some speed

MrMikeG

I don't know your hull measurements but I do know those Wrap forward then back headers are too long. Maybe a 2-3" 90* header would put the pipe outside the stringer and still tune while keeping the pipe in the hull?

gasfreak

My Feedback: (13)

I do have a short on I will see if it will fit in the hull and be outside the stringer I think that will be the problem the hull is 57 inches long and 16 inches wide so there is plenty of room I just got the stringer to worry about have to get to the outside of it I have seen the 90 degree headers that have a long straight before they make the 90 they are ran I a lot of cat hulls

Slow Motion

You will give up a lot of power that Carlo built into that eng., if you don't use a 90 deg. header to get to the proper tuned length. In that large of a hull, the 3" 90 with the pipe up fairly close, would be a good starting point for tuning. Don't forget to prop the boat for 17 - 18,000 RPM @ full bore in good water.

gasfreak

My Feedback: (13)

where do you find the 3 inch 90 pipes

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

Please note , NOT that I am suggestion HANSON as the only supplier of these headers , but , here ya go :

http://www.bhhanson.com/hbprod6.htm

gasfreak

My Feedback: (13)

do you think that is the header that would work the best I think it is the only one that would work in my hull without running the pipe out somewhere else which I really do not want to do thanks

Slow Motion

I think that's the only choice for an inside the hull header. I don't have a pipe or header like your's infront of me to measure, but a good " starting point " for tuning would be + or - 12 1/2" measured by cutting a piece of string or coat hanger to 12 1/2", and bending it along the center line of the header, beginning at the exh. port flange. Bend it down the length of the pipe. The end of the hanger ( or string ) should line up with the seem line of the rear cone of the pipe, where it joins the belly. Again, this is only a ballpark starting point. The final tuned length ( shorter or longer ) is determined by on water testing. I'm only guessing, but I think the 3" 90 header ( at shortest length ) would have a length of about 5 to 5 1/2".
Getting a full race eng. dialed in is a little work, but the results can be a lot of fun.

skoda450

You should check with the folks at Hanson, but I think you have a miss match between the pipe and header in the first picture. Normally, a long header such as the one you have or the wrap to center, requires a pipe with no belly band. The one in the picture looks to have a 2" band which is for the short 90 or 100 degree headers. In either case you are wasting power in that modded motor with out a pipe that can be tuned properly.

gasfreak

My Feedback: (13)

I also have this pipe would it work with number 1 on the other picture and if it will where should I start with length I have very little room to move it in and out maybe an inch or so at most without drilling hull out bigger so if I can get in the ball park the first time I might just have to live with it hopefully this pipe will work its the last one I have right now by the way the first pipe I showed earlier in this post I now have it on 100 degree header and removed the one that I am asking about now hell I am confusing myself now

Slow Motion

That pipe is considered the RPM pipe ( O band ). Both pipes should work with the #1 header, provided you can get the right tuned length. The O band pipe will have a narrower power range ( RPM ), and the banded pipe's range will be wider ( better torque ). You can set the starting length on both pipes, with the coat hanger arrangement as I said above. On the zero band pipe, your hanger will end up at the belly seam. Once you find the proper tuned length ( on the O band ), you can cut the extra header tube ( that's inside the pipe ) at 1/2" - 1" behind the rear O ring, if that's the pipe you are going to run.
Your boat being large and a little heavy ( compared to race boats ) might be better with the Banded pipe for more push. But you can use the O band to get the tuned length. Just remember, whatever the final length, it will be to the start of the rear cone, on the banded pipe.

gasfreak

My Feedback: (13)

the reason I want to run this pipe is because it is shorter than the banded pipe by about 3 inches in length that way I can leave the header longer to get my 12 inches the banded pipe was so long with the motor mounted it came right flush with the exhaust port so I would not have room for the 90 degree bend so I hope I dont loss too much bottom end like you said this boat is heavy that was the problem I was having with the old system I had on it the warehouse hobbies wet pipe it would not get on pipe until about half way down the straightaway I am not racing or anything like that but that was pretty sucky do you think this setup will do better as fas as that problem

Slow Motion

When you ran the WHH's system, did you have the water feed to the header hooked up? If the available space means that you need to run the O band, then I would run a large diameter prop ( I assume surface drive ) with the drive higher on the transom, but with smaller pitch. This will help to unload the eng., and get it quickly into the power band. Remember, you have a high end racing eng. there, and it needs to rev.

Davcruz

My Feedback: (1)

Gas Freak, I have been running the 3" 90° header with the Hanson RPM pipe you show and have had no issue with getting it to tune. My stock 260 comes right up on the pipe with it set the way you see it in the picture.

gasfreak

My Feedback: (13)

looks great that is just what I am going to do run mine just like that I will set it at about 12 inches and hope for the best I reaaly think the reson mine took so long to get on pipe is I was running a 670 prop I will run it again to start with to see the difference in headers and pipes but may have to prop it down does anyone have a prop suggestion now I know I am a lot of trouble but hey this is how we learn

gasfreak

My Feedback: (13)

By the way I know this is not the ideal motor hull combo but it is what I have and am tring to make it work the best it can for now probably will invest in another hull maybe next winter and put this one back with a stock motor just for fun but hell it is all fun tring different things right

Slow Motion

The X 670 is a nice prop ( best modded ) for smaller hulls. Small diameter, and a good pitch. Your drive may be too low on the transom. An ABC 2914 ( large blades to push a big hull and smaller pitch to unload the eng. ) could work well, if your prop shaft C/L can be set at 1/2 - 9/16" above the keel. A 3014 might be worth trying as well. It's almost impossable to recommend a prop for a boat without knowing the hull riding surface and hardware arrangement, and even then, every boat is a little different. We ALL learn every day.