c-cat

Thought I would donate some time to share the ins and outs of how I build the 84in. Oracle. This particular build will be a little on the custom side, focusing on a light and strong laminate schedule. For gelcoat I chose to tint clear finish gel so I could apply it later in the build as clearcoat, if you will. Here's a shot of the hull mold with gel freshly sprayed in.

goodson

cool. a BIG local build. where do you plan on running it?

Dreamin Hemi

Yes, a nice HUGE build. Will be interesting to see this come along. Thanks for sharing!

martno1fan

Ive been toying with the idea of using flakes in clear gelcoat on my hulls,i was going to apply the clear into the moulds first then sprinkle the flake on by hand as i figured it would be impossible to see when mixing into the clear.Then i would apply my colour on top of this so hopefully when the hull comes out of the mould i would have a nice effect.Aplying the tinted gel over the top after would mean lots of sanding afterwards so i think applying it into the mould first would be better just a thought ?.
Mart

Dreamin Hemi

Good idea Mart, just make sure your 1'st clear layer is hard first, then another clear layer with your sparkles. When that's hard your tinted or colored gel layer gets applied.

That sparkle is always best applied sprayed mixed with second layer of clear gel. They can all get sprayed......definitely the best method for an even dispersion. I'm sure if your very careful you can avoid blotchy areas hand applying the sparkle. We used to call that "chicken feeding" the sparkles on at the body shop I used to work at.

martno1fan

Im deffinateley going to give it a go,I have some nice black gelcoat i might try some with that any suggestions on colours? i was thinking silver and green like a cameleon effect ?.The guy i get my stuff from suggested the hand sprinkling he thought it the best method so ill have a go and post the results.Thanks for the tip on doing one coat of clear before adding the sparkled one good idea,gives me something to wet sand and buff if it needs it.I allways buff it with a high speed pollisher anyways with some compound.
Mart
ps ill practice my chicken feeding technique first on some paper here chuck chuck

LawHound

Use a Salt Shaker ( Salt Cellar??) that the flakes will go through it will make it some what easier. Doug.

bondobuster

Yepp. we used to use a sieve with holes just big enough for the flake to fit through. It gives a nice even pattern on big parts...

martno1fan

Yup cheers guys im on the case ,C-cat i forgot to say before thats one huge ***** you got there .Looking forward to seeing how she turns out.
Mart

c-cat

For initial glassing I like to start with damage/air control. I shred the 3/4 oz. mat and pull it into strand masses @ 1/8 in dia. to stuff in corners. The down side of having razor edges I sappose. After this, I'll lay a 3/4 oz. over the entire hull. I do plan on rigging and running this one, likely with a pair of stock, piped, zens. As far as running it, for testing anyways that wiil be a secret location.

c-cat

Here's an update on the build. After laminating the 3/4 oz. mat, I dropped in a 6 oz. std. weave cloth. This will be chased by a 2mm coremat application to build panel thickness. Should be cured by morning. At which time I'll bevel the edges of the coremat, prior to the next lam'.

c-cat

After some careful dremeling and sanding, all the edges of the coremat are beveled. Leaving from 3/8 to 1/2 between panels of coremat. Wishing I had taken pics of that now, I did get a shot of the final laminate prior to wetout. This is a 9oz. +-45 deg. bi-axle. I don't attempt to apply lam's in one solid layer because I want the overlaps to build thickness where coremat is absent.Covering the tunnel and it's sides is another story, just too much realestate with tight corners to be practical. Aproxamate thickness less coremat is .070 . Where I use the coremat is .110 . It takes alot of time and patience to cut the lam's to the patterns to keep the overlap's clean (see the pic with the pen). The hull (excluding deck) should come in around 16-18 lbs. without the bulkhead or engine mount sisters.

infinityteg

Hi there

Wow cant wait to see the finished product.
I am a complete fibreglass newbee but doest cormat soak up alot of resin making it quite a heavy layup?

You sound as though you know what your doing so keep up the good work and educate me a bit

cheers
steve

bondobuster

No coremat doesn't absorb a lot of resin at all. If the coremat is perforated it will go in the holes and seams and bond quite effectively. This laminate has a tremondous strength to weight ratio as it is a "sandwich" composite. Absolutely superb for this big of a boat.....

c-cat

Thanks all for the support and intrest. Iv'e built the boat without the coremat ( replaced by 1.5oz. mat) and they came in at 27-30 lbs. Just trying to shave a little weight on this, or possibly the rest I build. I feel its better to add weight where you want it, vs. dealing with where its at. Iv'e had a hand in building a few full size boats, and honestly this ones the smallest Iv'e laid up. On the final lam' for the hull, I'll be just into the 2nd. gallon of resin. As for progress today, all was lost for the sake of birthday parties and such. I have two children 2 & 5, who insist on having cake & ice cream whenever the chance arises. I'll post more tommorow.

infinityteg

Cool thanks for that. I guess you earn something everday
will have to keep that in mind for when i finish my molds

cheers
steve

c-cat

Here's an overdue update, took some time, but I'm almost ready to layup the deck. I layed up a partial part (or perimeter part more accuratly)of the hatch, so I could build in a deep flange for the hatch. My only concern is the gap, commonly found on production stuff due to necessary draft on molds. So I went with 1deg. of draft. And as far as the gap for clearance about .045 in. , or 9 layers of tape. It will take some clay to seal it off where the insert and deckmold meet, but not much.
I'm also including a pic of some dreaded line air, adjacent to the coremat. Only few places have done this, I'll remedy it by injecting resin via hypodermic needle. On the following build I'll drop in .75 oz. mat in these little areas.

FlogginHarvey

Wow!!! fun thread to follow!!! I feel like I am watching one the full-sized boats I sell being laid-up in the Mold Shop...This thing will be built like a Brick _ House. Very well done.

c-cat

Thanks Floggin', what line you sell? The comment "BrickHouse may be over said. The hull and deck will come in under 25 lbs. I only know because between material and resin, thats all it weighs. A little less actually. I'll be tooling up some interior structure stuff tonight after I lay up the deck. Likely all composite on this one, no wood. Iv'e repaired too many spongy balsa-cored boats over the years to venture back to organic cunstruction materials. Although I might fab up some end-grain balsa core for a scale build Iv'e been thinking about, Just need a deli slicer and some 1/4x1/4 stock.

nieto1124

My Feedback: (14)

Chris , sent a couple of e-mails with no reply? just making sure you got the information you requested of me? LMK. thanks

c-cat

neito pm'd.

c-cat

Back from vacation, finally. Thought about the build everyday! Dropped in a 3/4 oz. on top of gel in the deck and hatch molds. Will be following up with a 4oz std. lam. Chased with coremat again, and topped off with the 9oz +-45 deg. biaxle. I'm thinking of using laminate beam mounts across the sponson, vs. more traditional 1/2 bulkhead style. On top of which I'll place .10 aluminum "L" so i can mount the engines low,low, low, in the sponson. likely the beam mounts will be spaced for inlines, and remain the same for singles.

Dreamin Hemi

"Finally... back from vacation"???? Most usually don't want to come back . When I took a vacation to the Bahamas a few years ago, Iactually ended up looking for employment and actually was able to fit in a job interview! Got the job, however wasn't worth the effort to move the family for the pay.

Glad to see you're back on your project. Looking forward to more progress.

c-cat

Thanks Hemi, i did do some work while away. It's tough when someone says "this guy can fix it , he used to build boats". A gell repair or two, and a patched toon on a deck boat later, I had a weekend away? Any ways forgot pics. The last of which shows my thoughts on the mounts. Tape to be composite beams, Inverted U shape, in section. The dowels will be 3/4 x 1-1/4 aluminum "L". Let me know what you think.

c-cat

Here's a few pics of the deck and hatch layed up and trimmed. I need to bevel the top edge of the hull sides, for a high strenght bond/ shear line on the coremat. The seam will recieve a 3/4 oz. mat and a 9oz.+-45 deg. lam around the perimeter. All @ 1-1/2 wide. This will build glass density for sure but also contribute to a strong joint. The hybrid carbon/kev will be used on the outside of the hull/deck joint not only as a structure component but as a decorative laminate as well.The final pic shows the laminate schedule less coremat. It measures a thickness to .045 dry, thin yes, but in areas without coremat it's doubled by overlaps. I'll be laminating the hull and deck tonight, and likely pulling from molds tommorow.