F1 MODVP

I sold it complete with the Hull, 11cc Engine, Cowling, etc. Too many boat projects and not enough time.......

F1TUNNEL

Someone got a good pick up!!!

Nitro boater

Guys I am looking for a 1/4 scale seebold hull to fit a 26cc outboard onto PLZ HELP

racejunkie538

Hi guy's

Check out my new post: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_83..._4/key_/tm.htm

Regards

Marc

F1 MODVP

Looks good Marc! Tell us more. How does the Synthar F1 hull handle on the water, turns, trim, etc? We need some video!

Nice work.

racejunkie538

It was just a short run today, have to break in the engine properly first. (I think best handy 1/4 scale hull at this moment on the market) Check out this vid, same hull with diverent lower: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGeEx...eature=related
Hope to show you a nice vid soon.

Rgrds

Marc

F1 MODVP

Wow! You weren't kidding....After watching that video, about 1:40 into it, he started to squeeze the trigger a little more and it looked to run real smooth and handle turns well.

Here's theSynthar that I'm working on...

YPC

Hi Marc
Real good footage- I would really like to have someone film my boat running, as well as that was filmed.
Your boat, as I have said before, is beautifully built- We have the exact full scale boat racing in South Africa.
It is also running very well- weel done !

I would like to suggest you trying more weight in the nose (forward CG) as well as a lower prop position (deeper), it will possibly eliminate (decrese) the porpoising and allow for more top end speed, especially upwind. I also noticed that the hull is very wet up to 3/4 throttle, a deeper prop will lift it out of the water sooner.
In the turns you can see the forward sponson spray coming up, that is an indication sign that the props bow thrust (lift) is dropping of in the turn, (aggresively) dropping the nose. If you have a deeper prop setting, it will keep the nose up (steady) and you will be able to power through the turn even faster.

I have learnt -If you have to chose between 'light weight' and 'well balanced' when setting up an outboard F1 - chose 'well balanced' (more weight in the right place)
My race set up boat is the heaviest in the club, and I still can lap the second place boat twice in a 15 lap race.
We always have to remind ourselves, its not how fast we can go, being recorded on the GPS - but rather how fast we can go around the entire course and finnish the race.

Thanks for the awesome footage.

Well- my awesome holiday is officially over - My working year starts to-morrow - really looking forward to it.

Looking forward to all that every one has to add to this great thread for 2011

Have a great year EVERYONE !!!!!!!!!!!!

Kind regards
Dominic (YPC)
Youngz Performance Craft

Jackal1983

Been looking into outboards there is a few diffrent kinds on the market.

I got a few questions about them

A few are sealed and have the flexi oil filled.... How do you get and tighten up the flexishaft.... Is one end of the flexi a square ended flexi so you attach the round end to the engine... and push the flexi with engine attached down into the leg and it slots into a square end attapter at the bottom of the leg?

If not then how does the flexi attach at both ends???

Jack 

F1TUNNEL

Hi Dom,

I got some 805 servos today and was wondering if you had any more tips before I pull them apart and get the hot glue gun on to them as you have mentioned in the past. Cheers,

Dion.

YPC

Hi Dion
Do you have all the pics which I have posted before- if not- let me know and I will repost them.
I assure you - I have tried a number of the newer 1/4 scale servo's and none work as well as the Hitecs "as long as they are potted"
With some batches the drive motor is tighter than others- The trick is to use a small flat screwdriver, place it on top of the motor (Brass pinion Gear) and give it a good short tap with a small ball pin hammer.
Keep the screw driver as vertical as possible and centered on top of the motor shaft.
Be sure to replace the entire electronic unit as soon as you have potted it, otherwise it may not fit back in.
ensure that the black wire is tucked in.
Oh - watch your fingers- that glue does get HOT LOL
Good Luck !
Also ensure that when you fit the Servo white disc, that you coordinate the wholes with the matching numbers. The holes on the disc have veriable ditances !
Dont stress about the myth that the servos cant be joined by means of a linkage. Just ensure that the servo's are both powered before you fit the servo disc and attach the linkage- listen for a humm when you attach the linkage and if it exists- adjust the linkage (shorter/longer) until the humm stops.
Joining the two servo's not only increases the power emencly - but also adds collective impact strength to the gears, which absorbs the impact in a flip or barrel roll. I have never had to replace a single gear in any of the boats I have raced.
Remeber to set both servo's up with a direct 6v power source. The Hitecs supply there own Y lead so you dont need to purchase any extra.
Kind regards
Dominic (YPC)
Youngz Performance Craft

F1TUNNEL

Thanks for the extra info Dominic!!! I checked your post on page 7- all very helpful!!! I tried with the screw driver and could not get sufficient downward force so I found just the right size flat head nail that would reach the motor shaft as access is from the side. I used some scrap ply to raise the case up so the board was not damaged when I tapped it out. The nail trick worked a treat!!!!
When I glue the pods, am I just trying to glue the 4 together or am I trying to glue them to the board as well as together? I will make up some dummies and have a few trial runs so I get it right first time on the real thing.
Many thanks again for your help here Dominic, I'll keep you posted on the progress,
Cheers,
Dion.

F1TUNNEL

The servocity servo I have is just too big for stock Illusion radio box I think?

F1TUNNEL

Some pics of pods glued with hot glue gun. Hope I got it right!!!

F1TUNNEL

another angle

F1TUNNEL

and a stand I knocked up to get an idea of prop drive depth

YPC

Hi Dion

Dont be disapointed for not been able to install the Servocity Servo Set Up - It looks great- (like a Resturaunt Picture menu)- But does not work as well in the boats. The pinion gear takes all the strain, it either comes loose from the armeteur shaft or the motor burns out- and it is slow.

Looking at how you have that Morty Leg set - It is FARRRR to low.
The Morty leg as with the Lawless is a wide leg - 16 mm plus- You dont want that bulk dragging (Ploughing) in the water.
Lift the leg so that the point (line) at which the skeg meets the outer drive shaft housing is at least 5mm higher than the bottom of the sponsons.

Kind regards
Dominic (YPC)
Youngz Performance Craft

F1TUNNEL

I was hoping you would have something to say Dominic about the lower leg position. I will make up some packers to use as in pics to get to the right hight and the I can make some marks on the transom where I will drill holes.  Should I file shape and sharpen the lower leg? They are quite blunt on the front edge.
Many thanks again,

Dion.

F1TUNNEL

Do you use an auto bailer on the rear of the sponson Dominic or is that just a plug for draining? Cheers,

Dion

F1TUNNEL

radio box

F1TUNNEL

radio box

YPC

Hi Dion

It would be better if you could introduce a sharper leading edge to the skeg- BUT- be careful- it is a cast leg so you cant file to much away. Also square the trailing edge of the skeg- that allows the passing water to break away easier.

Be sure to drill/ream the drive standard shaft bearing out to 5/16 and fit 1/4 inch Lead Teflon bushes. I assure you, it will make a huge difference to the overall performance and wear of the drive shaft as well as aid in the flex shaft cable lasting longer.
Since we changed from oilite and the rest to Lead Teflon - we have had huge success with the Flex shaft life span.

The yellow plugs in my boats are simply plugs- I have not really got into the auto bailers- tried some once but for some reason they never worked and it was more of a hassle than what it was worth. You dont want your boat slowly submerging when you are on route to retrieve it.
Draing water from the motor is worse than a small amount from the boat LOL.
Your radio box looks great - well done on the potting- be sure to test the servo's.


Kind Regards
Dominic (YPC)
Youngz Performance Craft

YPC

On the fun side !
Someone in an earlier post suggested using bevel gears from a 90 degree driver - purchased at the local hardware shop.
Someone beat us to that idea !
I keep this picture - and look at it every so often- to remiind myself- ALL THINGS ARE POSSIBLE - We just never get to know if they work LOL
Regards
Dominic

specialk1

good to see that AMPS 1/4 in such great shape i have the molds for that leg / cowling

Machine Guy

Specialk.... When can i get one of those hulls ?????