dreddbatfan

Hydro Junkie,After reading your thread about redesigning this kit I'm tempted to get another kit and start over.The only thing stopping me from doing it is that I don't have the tools to cut new parts and I don't have patterns for the new parts.Also,I don't have the tools to make new machined engine mounts as well as the other metal parts.In your thread you mentioned several times the Newton Pak color sheet,where can I find this?Let me know what you think about me getting another kit and what to do about the re-designed parts.

Hydro Junkie

Sorry it took me this long to get back to you, been mulling this one over.
What I would recommend, knowing you have limitations would be the following:

1. If you want to start over, feel free BUT don't try to take your build to the level I did with mine. It takes a good amount of experience with the boats to do all the redesigning I did
2. If you do decide to start over and want to make it out of better materials, use the kit parts as patterns
3. I would make only one real change to the boat, move the joint where the bottom panels come together back to frame 6. This will require the bottom of the frames 2-5 to be raised between the sponson insides to allow for the different bottom profile. It would also require changing the shape of the engine mounting blocks. Otherwise, the frames would be the same as you had for the kit build

Obviously, working with the type of plywood I did will make sanding and such a bit harder as the wood is stronger. That also means you could use thinner wood in some areas if you want to go that route.
If you decide you want to start again, you can order the plywood and spruce sticks at Aircraft Spruce:
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/
Just remember, this is your choice. I'm not going to tell you that you have to start over because of this or that. Your boat should run the way it is but won't be up to being used as a race boat.
As far as the Newton color sheet, it was part of a three sheet set that was drawn by someone I tend to think of as a mentor, Roger Newton. Unfortunately, Roger passed on several years ago due to cardiac issues. His son has been selling plan sets and single sheets there of for 1/8 scale boats ever since. Here is the link to that plan set on their website:
Newton Marine - The Best Source for Scale Hydroplane Plans
Contact information is on the home page, just click the left most tab at the top of the page linked above

dreddbatfan

Hydro Junkie,I decided to put the drain tubes in by the transom and in the engine bay,put the clear cover on the servo part and get the new propeller then sand seal and paint and see how she runs.Questions:you mentioned a 4-40 threaded insert,should I put that in the 3/16" brass tube?How long should the brass tubes be?Should I leave the radio tape on the clear cover when it's not being used?I'm getting ready to get a starting belt and I was wondering how long it should be?

Hydro Junkie

NO, it's not needed. I just put a piece of radio box tape over the end and call it good, no issues after several years of running my scale
For the ones at the back of the boat, just long enough to get through the transom. As for the drain for the engine compartment, flush with the front of the radio box outer face and angled rearward as you see fit, again being flush with the bottom skin
This one is your call. I personally don't so that any moisture can evaporate out and so I can get to the batteries to charge them
IIRC, starting belts come in 15, 17 and 19 inch lengths. Either the 15 or 17 should work fine, the 19 will just get in the way