NitroBurn1

I am curious to see what method others use for nitro boat engine break in. I have ran offroad nitro most of my RC life, about 15 years, so i am very familiar with nitro engines. I have ran boats befor, but now im getting more involved in it than i was. I didn't do a heat cycle with my Aqua .18, i didn't see how could. So what i did was richen it up to the point where it would blubber, and blow a lot of smoke, but still run. Then i ran it at different speed intervals for the first 6 or 7 tanks, while running rich. Next i began to lean it 1/8 turn after each tank untill it ran at its max, then when it was tuned i backed it off about 1/8 turn.

Hydro Junkie

Did you have it on the bench or in the lake/pond? It does make a difference

Sean Bowf

Nitroburn1, I think if you ask 10 different people how to break in a boat engine, you will get 10 different answers....BUT, I pretty much do what you did with the Vegas.

I start at about 3 turns out on the high speed needle. For the first tank, I take a couple laps, then let it cool, then take a couple laps, then let it cool, then run the rest of the tank out. I leave the needle where it is for the 2nd tank...then starting on the third tank I start to lean it up an eigth of a turn per tank until it runs right. At about 7 tanks, your boat should be running pretty good.

Sean

Hydro Junkie

I agree with you on the different opinions. An engine broken in with a load will, in most cases, last longer and have less problems than one broken in on the bench with out a load on it..

avenge

I do a little bit of both. I get the motor and break her in on the bench until she runs consistently without stalling then i take to the pond and run 5-6 tanks before i start playing with needles.

f16man

VERY GOOD GUYS THAT IS THE ONLY WAY, I have had some engines that were just a little to tight from the factory and so I pulled the piston and liner out and worked piston in the sleeve by hand with a little tooth paste until it freed up a bit, I know I know thats cheetin lol !!!!

rageman

http://rcboat.com/cr.htm

This is what was posted on the web site noted above about initial motor break in. Very different from what I have read on this site particullarly with regard to running without water during breakin.

Comments?

"After you have the engine back in your model, it is time to break in the engine. A Boater/Engine Builder (Steve O'Donnell), who I respect a great deal told me some time ago about his break-in procedure. I have been using a variation of it with VERY good results. I remove the water line from the rudder assembly and make sure that I have the needle set on the rich side of perfect. I use a mixture control, so that is easy. For those of you who don't have a mixture control, get to the rich side of a perfect needle. I launch the boat and run around the course, giving the engine full throttle for at least 1/2 of the straightaway and then reducing the throttle to half in the turn (allowing the mixture to richen), then full on 1/2 of the SAW, then reducing to 1/2 in the turn. This "Heat Cycles" the engine and the liner/piston fit will be terrific. I usually run 4-5 tankfuls of fuel through the engine before I ask the engine to "do its thing". DO NOT run the engine very cold, with the water line connected, as it will not break in at all. You MUST heat cycle the engine to break it in!"

piper_chuck

My Feedback: (12)

There are many different break in techniques. Many work well, some don't. Personally, I'm not going to be running my engines with absolutely no cooling.

Sean Bowf

I went to the site, and could not find that info at the link...but I was thinking the same thing as Piper. I was wondering what context that statement was made in. Personally, with my limited experience, I would think running multiple tanks of fuel through it without cooling would kill the engine. I'd be too scared to even try it.

Sean

gooycheese

In a RTR boat like for example a Miss Vegas with the engine completely covered by a cowl running a engine like this will definitely heat it and I would imagine destroy it. I have a .12 car engine and I went through a little heat cycle breaking in, It doesn't take very long to get an engine over 220 degrees (less than 1 minute). I am just guessing here but I would guess that you will easy hit 400 degrees with no water or air cooling, I would think that temps of this nature wouldn't be helpful in anyway. Just for the record I am a newbie and these are just my opinions, its your engines if you want to run a water cooled engine dry (more power to you).


Paul


I also couldn't find anything that said run a water cooled engine dry.

f16man

As said before, piston and sleeve temps are much more than the outer cylinder especialy the exaust side of the piston. When the engine shuts down the heat transfers very quickly from the piston to the sleeve and then to the crankcase and cylinder head. It is true that the engine needs heat to break in but running nitro with the fuel, generating heat is the basic by-product and without water or large cooling fin head temps can soar and piston melt down will happen.

rageman

Sorry. The link that Hesco Racing provided takes you to the web site page on "SQUISH BAND". At the bottom of this page is "OLD TECH NOTES [CLICK HERE]". In the list of the "OLD TECH NOTES" is "ENGINE BLUE PRINTING #5 FINAL ASSEMBLY" in which is included the paragraph on"INITIAL RUNNING" which is what I cut and pasted above.

They state this break in procedure was developed / used by engine builder Steve O'Donnell. Is this the same person whose nitro fuel bears this name?