AMPS hulls & outboards pics & tips {Agnew Model Propulsion Systems}
02-10-2009, 07:22 AM
#326
RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
Mark (ob nut),
Bob already gave an answer to that too:
Ofcourse I can only speak for our own product, but there are more available, for info also see [link=http://www.boatracingfacts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7917]boatracingfacts[/link].
These are also with flexshaft that run for hours, so we don't have the "break within one heat" issue.
Rgds, Eddy
Bob already gave an answer to that too:
ORIGINAL: BobAgnew
The original gas outboard used a flex drive and the originals ran for hours without problems.
The original gas outboard used a flex drive and the originals ran for hours without problems.
ORIGINAL: ob nut
The two gas lowers available (Lawless & G-Morty)....
The two gas lowers available (Lawless & G-Morty)....
These are also with flexshaft that run for hours, so we don't have the "break within one heat" issue.
Rgds, Eddy
02-10-2009, 10:03 AM
#327
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RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
Bob Agnew
Speaking for myself the Amps Boats and Motor where ahead of there time I myself don't race boats I like for people to come up to me at the pond and tell me how much it looks like the real thing and ask where they can get one and I have to tell them a short but great story about the amp company. Its like a tucker automobile there where ahead of there tme to. So I would love to see the amps make a come back and would buy them as soon as they would be ready for the public. Put my on the list of buyers if there is one.
Speaking for myself the Amps Boats and Motor where ahead of there time I myself don't race boats I like for people to come up to me at the pond and tell me how much it looks like the real thing and ask where they can get one and I have to tell them a short but great story about the amp company. Its like a tucker automobile there where ahead of there tme to. So I would love to see the amps make a come back and would buy them as soon as they would be ready for the public. Put my on the list of buyers if there is one.
02-10-2009, 04:34 PM
#329
RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
specialk1,
Although I think this thread is almost ready to move to the gas forum, you sure found a way to keep it going (17430 hits now) !
To answer your question (after extensive testing) we started choosing a very high quality flexshaft and run it in an oil bath.
We don't use a teflon liner, but according to the advise of the (German) manufacturer straight in a stainless steel tube, in order to get rid of the generated heat.
For the rest we stole a kind of "users manual" from different fora:
Break in a new shaft by polishing the outside surface running them in a high speed drill, using 400 wet/dry paper and WD 40 for a short while.
Inspect the shaft ends and don't leave any grit in the shaft by cleaning it with solvent.
Soak the flex in oil in a straight position for at least a day before you use it.
When tightening the prop, don't hold the flywheel to tighten the nut, but hold the prop using a piece of heavy leather.
Holding the flywheel forces the cable the wrong way and breaks the square wedge ends loose, and un-binds the lay of the cable.
Go slow with a new flexshaft, because even though they are flexible, they still need to be broken in.
Since you have to check the oil level in the midsection at least every day before going to the water anyway and to avoid unwanted material “memoryâ€, take out the flexshaft after each day of driving, use solvent to soak it in, work it around, flex it (this will remove newly worn metal particles out of it) and store it in oil in a straight position again.
Rgds, Eddy[sm=bananahead.gif]
Although I think this thread is almost ready to move to the gas forum, you sure found a way to keep it going (17430 hits now) !
To answer your question (after extensive testing) we started choosing a very high quality flexshaft and run it in an oil bath.
We don't use a teflon liner, but according to the advise of the (German) manufacturer straight in a stainless steel tube, in order to get rid of the generated heat.
For the rest we stole a kind of "users manual" from different fora:
Break in a new shaft by polishing the outside surface running them in a high speed drill, using 400 wet/dry paper and WD 40 for a short while.
Inspect the shaft ends and don't leave any grit in the shaft by cleaning it with solvent.
Soak the flex in oil in a straight position for at least a day before you use it.
When tightening the prop, don't hold the flywheel to tighten the nut, but hold the prop using a piece of heavy leather.
Holding the flywheel forces the cable the wrong way and breaks the square wedge ends loose, and un-binds the lay of the cable.
Go slow with a new flexshaft, because even though they are flexible, they still need to be broken in.
Since you have to check the oil level in the midsection at least every day before going to the water anyway and to avoid unwanted material “memoryâ€, take out the flexshaft after each day of driving, use solvent to soak it in, work it around, flex it (this will remove newly worn metal particles out of it) and store it in oil in a straight position again.
Rgds, Eddy[sm=bananahead.gif]
02-10-2009, 10:45 PM
#331
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RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
Eddy,
Sorry about that. Forgot about your unit.. D'Oh.. Guess I was thinking of the units that have been discussed about on IW.
Donnie,
I believe those are the OSSI hulls out of Germany.. Might be wrong... Won't be the first time!
Sorry about that. Forgot about your unit.. D'Oh.. Guess I was thinking of the units that have been discussed about on IW.
Donnie,
I believe those are the OSSI hulls out of Germany.. Might be wrong... Won't be the first time!
02-11-2009, 03:18 AM
#332
RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
Donnie,
The black and white boat is my testboat and is a modified glassfiber copy of a DPI.
The yellow and Bud Light boat at the right are "Synthar" boats that are build by John Vianen, an ex fullscale racer.
The carbon boat with the wooden sponsons is build by Rob Pols and was the donor for the center section of the Synthar mould.
Mark,
The boat at the right, where you can only see the front part, is an Ossi.
Rgds, Eddy
The black and white boat is my testboat and is a modified glassfiber copy of a DPI.
The yellow and Bud Light boat at the right are "Synthar" boats that are build by John Vianen, an ex fullscale racer.
The carbon boat with the wooden sponsons is build by Rob Pols and was the donor for the center section of the Synthar mould.
Mark,
The boat at the right, where you can only see the front part, is an Ossi.
Rgds, Eddy
02-11-2009, 10:24 AM
#333
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RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
Does anybody know how to get a hold of one of eddy's or 2brothersrc.com one of there lower units? I would like to get to the pond this year and want a new boat to run. Tired of nitro and ready for the sweet smell of 2 stroke. Thanks for the info guys
02-12-2009, 06:28 AM
#334
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RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
ORIGINAL: BobAgnew
Hi Guys
Sorry that I have not been around for a week or so. I have managed to find some of the original gear pairs for the outboards/outdrives and will sort these out in the next few days and update everyone on how many there are. These are unused gears from the last of the original batches.
I have also obtained some prices for new much stronger gears that will fit the original units. These will cost about 25 - 30 dollars a pair if we order them in small batches (50 -100 sets) They are approximately 80% stronger than the original gears.
Is this of interest at these prices. The original gears will be less as all I have to cover is the cost of inspection and testing but the numbers will be limited.
One question I have - The original gas outboard used a flex drive and the originals ran for hours without problems. Is a flex drive acceptable or do people want geared lower units.
Also there are some nice looking units made a by a company called MHZ. They have been about for quite a time as a company originally in East Germany. This may be a stupid question but if there are units around that will take gas engines and big nitro engines why produce a new unit?
Just Curious
Regards
Hi Guys
Sorry that I have not been around for a week or so. I have managed to find some of the original gear pairs for the outboards/outdrives and will sort these out in the next few days and update everyone on how many there are. These are unused gears from the last of the original batches.
I have also obtained some prices for new much stronger gears that will fit the original units. These will cost about 25 - 30 dollars a pair if we order them in small batches (50 -100 sets) They are approximately 80% stronger than the original gears.
Is this of interest at these prices. The original gears will be less as all I have to cover is the cost of inspection and testing but the numbers will be limited.
One question I have - The original gas outboard used a flex drive and the originals ran for hours without problems. Is a flex drive acceptable or do people want geared lower units.
Also there are some nice looking units made a by a company called MHZ. They have been about for quite a time as a company originally in East Germany. This may be a stupid question but if there are units around that will take gas engines and big nitro engines why produce a new unit?
Just Curious
Regards
Great news on finding the gears Bob!
I'd be interested in your older gear sets as well as any new improved gears that could be made. Our local club basically scrapped the AMPS class due to the unavailability of gears and replacement parts. If we could bring back the parts that wear out I'm sure those that still have their fleet would be back in. I would like a minimum of 10 sets, that would get my lowers working again. If there isn't interest from anyone else here I'd consider meeting that 50 piece quota myself.
Bob,
Back in 2006 I remember someone sold the last of their AMPS outboards on eBay. One of them was a proto-type with a fiberglass cowl with Evinrude branding on it. The motor was fitted with a gear at the top and was accompanied by a paper signed by you authenticating it as a true AMPS prototype. Can you recall this motor, and/or have any pictures you could share with us? My PC came down with a terrible FLU a few years ago and unfortunately the cure involved losing many, many files... Including the photos of that engine.
Any other history you could provide would be of great interest here.
Regards,
Bill
02-12-2009, 09:49 AM
#335
Thread Starter
RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
ORIGINAL: Eddy de Vries
specialk1,
Although I think this thread is almost ready to move to the gas forum, you sure found a way to keep it going (17430 hits now) !
To answer your question (after extensive testing) we started choosing a very high quality flexshaft and run it in an oil bath.
We don't use a teflon liner, but according to the advise of the (German) manufacturer straight in a stainless steel tube, in order to get rid of the generated heat.
For the rest we stole a kind of "users manual" from different fora:
Break in a new shaft by polishing the outside surface running them in a high speed drill, using 400 wet/dry paper and WD 40 for a short while.
Inspect the shaft ends and don't leave any grit in the shaft by cleaning it with solvent.
Soak the flex in oil in a straight position for at least a day before you use it.
When tightening the prop, don't hold the flywheel to tighten the nut, but hold the prop using a piece of heavy leather.
Holding the flywheel forces the cable the wrong way and breaks the square wedge ends loose, and un-binds the lay of the cable.
Go slow with a new flexshaft, because even though they are flexible, they still need to be broken in.
Since you have to check the oil level in the midsection at least every day before going to the water anyway and to avoid unwanted material “memoryâ€, take out the flexshaft after each day of driving, use solvent to soak it in, work it around, flex it (this will remove newly worn metal particles out of it) and store it in oil in a straight position again.
Rgds, Eddy[sm=bananahead.gif]
specialk1,
Although I think this thread is almost ready to move to the gas forum, you sure found a way to keep it going (17430 hits now) !
To answer your question (after extensive testing) we started choosing a very high quality flexshaft and run it in an oil bath.
We don't use a teflon liner, but according to the advise of the (German) manufacturer straight in a stainless steel tube, in order to get rid of the generated heat.
For the rest we stole a kind of "users manual" from different fora:
Break in a new shaft by polishing the outside surface running them in a high speed drill, using 400 wet/dry paper and WD 40 for a short while.
Inspect the shaft ends and don't leave any grit in the shaft by cleaning it with solvent.
Soak the flex in oil in a straight position for at least a day before you use it.
When tightening the prop, don't hold the flywheel to tighten the nut, but hold the prop using a piece of heavy leather.
Holding the flywheel forces the cable the wrong way and breaks the square wedge ends loose, and un-binds the lay of the cable.
Go slow with a new flexshaft, because even though they are flexible, they still need to be broken in.
Since you have to check the oil level in the midsection at least every day before going to the water anyway and to avoid unwanted material “memoryâ€, take out the flexshaft after each day of driving, use solvent to soak it in, work it around, flex it (this will remove newly worn metal particles out of it) and store it in oil in a straight position again.
Rgds, Eddy[sm=bananahead.gif]
[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]
02-12-2009, 09:50 AM
#336
Thread Starter
RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
ORIGINAL: 4square
Great news on finding the gears Bob!
I'd be interested in your older gear sets as well as any new improved gears that could be made. Our local club basically scrapped the AMPS class due to the unavailability of gears and replacement parts. If we could bring back the parts that wear out I'm sure those that still have their fleet would be back in. I would like a minimum of 10 sets, that would get my lowers working again. If there isn't interest from anyone else here I'd consider meeting that 50 piece quota myself.
Bob,
Back in 2006 I remember someone sold the last of their AMPS outboards on eBay. One of them was a proto-type with a fiberglass cowl with Evenrude branding on it. The motor was fitted with a gear at the top and was accompanied by a paper signed by you authenticating it as a true AMPS prototype. Can you recall this motor, and/or have any pictures you could share with us?
Any other history you could provide would be of great interest here.
Regards,
Bill
ORIGINAL: BobAgnew
Hi Guys
Sorry that I have not been around for a week or so. I have managed to find some of the original gear pairs for the outboards/outdrives and will sort these out in the next few days and update everyone on how many there are. These are unused gears from the last of the original batches.
I have also obtained some prices for new much stronger gears that will fit the original units. These will cost about 25 - 30 dollars a pair if we order them in small batches (50 -100 sets) They are approximately 80% stronger than the original gears.
Is this of interest at these prices. The original gears will be less as all I have to cover is the cost of inspection and testing but the numbers will be limited.
One question I have - The original gas outboard used a flex drive and the originals ran for hours without problems. Is a flex drive acceptable or do people want geared lower units.
Also there are some nice looking units made a by a company called MHZ. They have been about for quite a time as a company originally in East Germany. This may be a stupid question but if there are units around that will take gas engines and big nitro engines why produce a new unit?
Just Curious
Regards
Hi Guys
Sorry that I have not been around for a week or so. I have managed to find some of the original gear pairs for the outboards/outdrives and will sort these out in the next few days and update everyone on how many there are. These are unused gears from the last of the original batches.
I have also obtained some prices for new much stronger gears that will fit the original units. These will cost about 25 - 30 dollars a pair if we order them in small batches (50 -100 sets) They are approximately 80% stronger than the original gears.
Is this of interest at these prices. The original gears will be less as all I have to cover is the cost of inspection and testing but the numbers will be limited.
One question I have - The original gas outboard used a flex drive and the originals ran for hours without problems. Is a flex drive acceptable or do people want geared lower units.
Also there are some nice looking units made a by a company called MHZ. They have been about for quite a time as a company originally in East Germany. This may be a stupid question but if there are units around that will take gas engines and big nitro engines why produce a new unit?
Just Curious
Regards
Great news on finding the gears Bob!
I'd be interested in your older gear sets as well as any new improved gears that could be made. Our local club basically scrapped the AMPS class due to the unavailability of gears and replacement parts. If we could bring back the parts that wear out I'm sure those that still have their fleet would be back in. I would like a minimum of 10 sets, that would get my lowers working again. If there isn't interest from anyone else here I'd consider meeting that 50 piece quota myself.
Bob,
Back in 2006 I remember someone sold the last of their AMPS outboards on eBay. One of them was a proto-type with a fiberglass cowl with Evenrude branding on it. The motor was fitted with a gear at the top and was accompanied by a paper signed by you authenticating it as a true AMPS prototype. Can you recall this motor, and/or have any pictures you could share with us?
Any other history you could provide would be of great interest here.
Regards,
Bill
02-12-2009, 09:55 AM
#337
Thread Starter
RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
[quote]ORIGINAL: specialk1
also not only the gears but the shafts [&:] and have you all had problems with water getting in on the lowers { speed masters} version .joe rocket pointed that out 
ORIGINAL: 4square
Great news on finding the gears Bob!
I'd be interested in your older gear sets as well as any new improved gears that could be made. Our local club basically scrapped the AMPS class due to the unavailability of gears and replacement parts. If we could bring back the parts that wear out I'm sure those that still have their fleet would be back in. I would like a minimum of 10 sets, that would get my lowers working again. If there isn't interest from anyone else here I'd consider meeting that 50 piece quota myself.
Bob,
Back in 2006 I remember someone sold the last of their AMPS outboards on eBay. One of them was a proto-type with a fiberglass cowl with Evenrude branding on it. The motor was fitted with a gear at the top and was accompanied by a paper signed by you authenticating it as a true AMPS prototype. Can you recall this motor, and/or have any pictures you could share with us?
Any other history you could provide would be of great interest here.
Regards,
Bill
ORIGINAL: BobAgnew
Hi Guys
Sorry that I have not been around for a week or so. I have managed to find some of the original gear pairs for the outboards/outdrives and will sort these out in the next few days and update everyone on how many there are. These are unused gears from the last of the original batches.
I have also obtained some prices for new much stronger gears that will fit the original units. These will cost about 25 - 30 dollars a pair if we order them in small batches (50 -100 sets) They are approximately 80% stronger than the original gears.
Is this of interest at these prices. The original gears will be less as all I have to cover is the cost of inspection and testing but the numbers will be limited.
One question I have - The original gas outboard used a flex drive and the originals ran for hours without problems. Is a flex drive acceptable or do people want geared lower units.
Also there are some nice looking units made a by a company called MHZ. They have been about for quite a time as a company originally in East Germany. This may be a stupid question but if there are units around that will take gas engines and big nitro engines why produce a new unit?
Just Curious
Regards
Hi Guys
Sorry that I have not been around for a week or so. I have managed to find some of the original gear pairs for the outboards/outdrives and will sort these out in the next few days and update everyone on how many there are. These are unused gears from the last of the original batches.
I have also obtained some prices for new much stronger gears that will fit the original units. These will cost about 25 - 30 dollars a pair if we order them in small batches (50 -100 sets) They are approximately 80% stronger than the original gears.
Is this of interest at these prices. The original gears will be less as all I have to cover is the cost of inspection and testing but the numbers will be limited.
One question I have - The original gas outboard used a flex drive and the originals ran for hours without problems. Is a flex drive acceptable or do people want geared lower units.
Also there are some nice looking units made a by a company called MHZ. They have been about for quite a time as a company originally in East Germany. This may be a stupid question but if there are units around that will take gas engines and big nitro engines why produce a new unit?
Just Curious
Regards
Great news on finding the gears Bob!
I'd be interested in your older gear sets as well as any new improved gears that could be made. Our local club basically scrapped the AMPS class due to the unavailability of gears and replacement parts. If we could bring back the parts that wear out I'm sure those that still have their fleet would be back in. I would like a minimum of 10 sets, that would get my lowers working again. If there isn't interest from anyone else here I'd consider meeting that 50 piece quota myself.
Bob,
Back in 2006 I remember someone sold the last of their AMPS outboards on eBay. One of them was a proto-type with a fiberglass cowl with Evenrude branding on it. The motor was fitted with a gear at the top and was accompanied by a paper signed by you authenticating it as a true AMPS prototype. Can you recall this motor, and/or have any pictures you could share with us?
Any other history you could provide would be of great interest here.
Regards,
Bill
02-12-2009, 12:30 PM
#338
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RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
I'll will take some gears also. New and improved stronger ones would be great. What about a new speedmaster foot with spiral gears or?
02-16-2009, 06:55 PM
#339
Thread Starter
RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
ORIGINAL: joe rocket
I'll will take some gears also. New and improved stronger ones would be great. What about a new speedmaster foot with spiral gears or?
I'll will take some gears also. New and improved stronger ones would be great. What about a new speedmaster foot with spiral gears or?
02-16-2009, 07:09 PM
#340
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RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
I don't have an io drive. I think the water comes in at the joint where the halfs come together.I do have oil that leaks out the prop shaft but that is not a big deal.
02-17-2009, 08:21 PM
#341
Thread Starter
RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
ORIGINAL: joe rocket
I don't have an io drive. I think the water comes in at the joint where the halfs come together.I do have oil that leaks out the prop shaft but that is not a big deal.
I don't have an io drive. I think the water comes in at the joint where the halfs come together.I do have oil that leaks out the prop shaft but that is not a big deal.
02-17-2009, 08:51 PM
#342
Thread Starter
RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
ORIGINAL: gas pump bill
that k&o mercury is killing me . when GERRY and i got married 53 years ago . i got 2 of the 1950 merc motors. and a mahogony cabin cruiser. after building it i took it down the street to the lake the operation was not verry impresive. i dont know what i did with the boat and 2 motors but regretting their loss later in my life i started colecting them again. i have a nice langcraft merc but i have never found a K&O merc that i could aford. oh well thats life. bill payne
that k&o mercury is killing me . when GERRY and i got married 53 years ago . i got 2 of the 1950 merc motors. and a mahogony cabin cruiser. after building it i took it down the street to the lake the operation was not verry impresive. i dont know what i did with the boat and 2 motors but regretting their loss later in my life i started colecting them again. i have a nice langcraft merc but i have never found a K&O merc that i could aford. oh well thats life. bill payne
[X(]
02-18-2009, 04:47 AM
#344
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RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
Hi guys
Maybe I can help here. You should not get a leak between the two halves as these were machined faces. They were generally joined using a sealing compound such as Hermatite which does go hard eventually so if you take the units apart you need to check that the faces are clean before you put them back together. A smear of silicone grease works well as a sealant and does not go hard.
As regards leaking from the propshaft - depending on the age of the unit most were fitted with rubber sealed bearings in the bearing housing behind the prop. These shoul dbe readiyl available from bearing suppliers. Any rotating unit will loose some oil that is why an oil top up oil filler screw was added. The rotation of the gears act as a pump and pressurise the oil in the gearbox. If it is full then the oil has nowhere to go but out through the bearings.
Do not fill the gearbox above say half way. The gear on the propshaft only needs to be sitting in a shallow bath of oil over its lower half as it will then pick up the oil and transfer it to the other gear as well as spraying it about the inside of the casing. Unless the unit ejects all its oil and fills up with water and is then left you should not find that it is a major problem if a small amount of water gets in the gear case occasionall. Water mixed with the oil will reduce the efficiency of the oil but providing that it is only a very small proportion of water for a short number of runs it will not generally do any major damage. When these systems were used in European racing competitions the oil was only checked each run and topped up to half way if necessary. It was only replaced maybe twice a year or if something broke![>:].
Auto differential oil or the oil mentioned above is fine. Do not use oil that is too thick as this will generate a lot of heat very quickly and loose a lot of its lubricating powers. It is ok when in the water but with the engine running on land it can get very hot very quickly.
If you need to remove the lower shaft (I think I saw a photo above with some specially made pliers) The bearing housing was a close machined finish and held in place using Loctite 308 (uk number so I am not sure of the US number). This is the same Loctite used for holding the grub screws in the gears and is (was) the strongest loctite available.
To disassemble without damaging the units you need to heat the housing (the casting) with a small gas torch I think if I recall to about 300degrees F. At this temperature the loctite degrades and you can easily remove the parts. In a painted unit this destroys the paint so you need to repaint them however on the speedmaster (polished) units it is not a problem.
Hope this is of help
Regards
Bob
Maybe I can help here. You should not get a leak between the two halves as these were machined faces. They were generally joined using a sealing compound such as Hermatite which does go hard eventually so if you take the units apart you need to check that the faces are clean before you put them back together. A smear of silicone grease works well as a sealant and does not go hard.
As regards leaking from the propshaft - depending on the age of the unit most were fitted with rubber sealed bearings in the bearing housing behind the prop. These shoul dbe readiyl available from bearing suppliers. Any rotating unit will loose some oil that is why an oil top up oil filler screw was added. The rotation of the gears act as a pump and pressurise the oil in the gearbox. If it is full then the oil has nowhere to go but out through the bearings.
Do not fill the gearbox above say half way. The gear on the propshaft only needs to be sitting in a shallow bath of oil over its lower half as it will then pick up the oil and transfer it to the other gear as well as spraying it about the inside of the casing. Unless the unit ejects all its oil and fills up with water and is then left you should not find that it is a major problem if a small amount of water gets in the gear case occasionall. Water mixed with the oil will reduce the efficiency of the oil but providing that it is only a very small proportion of water for a short number of runs it will not generally do any major damage. When these systems were used in European racing competitions the oil was only checked each run and topped up to half way if necessary. It was only replaced maybe twice a year or if something broke![>:].
Auto differential oil or the oil mentioned above is fine. Do not use oil that is too thick as this will generate a lot of heat very quickly and loose a lot of its lubricating powers. It is ok when in the water but with the engine running on land it can get very hot very quickly.
If you need to remove the lower shaft (I think I saw a photo above with some specially made pliers) The bearing housing was a close machined finish and held in place using Loctite 308 (uk number so I am not sure of the US number). This is the same Loctite used for holding the grub screws in the gears and is (was) the strongest loctite available.
To disassemble without damaging the units you need to heat the housing (the casting) with a small gas torch I think if I recall to about 300degrees F. At this temperature the loctite degrades and you can easily remove the parts. In a painted unit this destroys the paint so you need to repaint them however on the speedmaster (polished) units it is not a problem.
Hope this is of help
Regards
Bob
02-20-2009, 09:18 AM
#345
Thread Starter
RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
ORIGINAL: BobAgnew
Hi guys
Maybe I can help here. You should not get a leak between the two halves as these were machined faces. They were generally joined using a sealing compound such as Hermatite which does go hard eventually so if you take the units apart you need to check that the faces are clean before you put them back together. A smear of silicone grease works well as a sealant and does not go hard.
As regards leaking from the propshaft - depending on the age of the unit most were fitted with rubber sealed bearings in the bearing housing behind the prop. These shoul dbe readiyl available from bearing suppliers. Any rotating unit will loose some oil that is why an oil top up oil filler screw was added. The rotation of the gears act as a pump and pressurise the oil in the gearbox. If it is full then the oil has nowhere to go but out through the bearings.
Do not fill the gearbox above say half way. The gear on the propshaft only needs to be sitting in a shallow bath of oil over its lower half as it will then pick up the oil and transfer it to the other gear as well as spraying it about the inside of the casing. Unless the unit ejects all its oil and fills up with water and is then left you should not find that it is a major problem if a small amount of water gets in the gear case occasionall. Water mixed with the oil will reduce the efficiency of the oil but providing that it is only a very small proportion of water for a short number of runs it will not generally do any major damage. When these systems were used in European racing competitions the oil was only checked each run and topped up to half way if necessary. It was only replaced maybe twice a year or if something broke![>:].
Auto differential oil or the oil mentioned above is fine. Do not use oil that is too thick as this will generate a lot of heat very quickly and loose a lot of its lubricating powers. It is ok when in the water but with the engine running on land it can get very hot very quickly.
If you need to remove the lower shaft (I think I saw a photo above with some specially made pliers) The bearing housing was a close machined finish and held in place using Loctite 308 (uk number so I am not sure of the US number). This is the same Loctite used for holding the grub screws in the gears and is (was) the strongest loctite available.
To disassemble without damaging the units you need to heat the housing (the casting) with a small gas torch I think if I recall to about 300degrees F. At this temperature the loctite degrades and you can easily remove the parts. In a painted unit this destroys the paint so you need to repaint them however on the speedmaster (polished) units it is not a problem.
Hope this is of help
Regards
Bob
Hi guys
Maybe I can help here. You should not get a leak between the two halves as these were machined faces. They were generally joined using a sealing compound such as Hermatite which does go hard eventually so if you take the units apart you need to check that the faces are clean before you put them back together. A smear of silicone grease works well as a sealant and does not go hard.
As regards leaking from the propshaft - depending on the age of the unit most were fitted with rubber sealed bearings in the bearing housing behind the prop. These shoul dbe readiyl available from bearing suppliers. Any rotating unit will loose some oil that is why an oil top up oil filler screw was added. The rotation of the gears act as a pump and pressurise the oil in the gearbox. If it is full then the oil has nowhere to go but out through the bearings.
Do not fill the gearbox above say half way. The gear on the propshaft only needs to be sitting in a shallow bath of oil over its lower half as it will then pick up the oil and transfer it to the other gear as well as spraying it about the inside of the casing. Unless the unit ejects all its oil and fills up with water and is then left you should not find that it is a major problem if a small amount of water gets in the gear case occasionall. Water mixed with the oil will reduce the efficiency of the oil but providing that it is only a very small proportion of water for a short number of runs it will not generally do any major damage. When these systems were used in European racing competitions the oil was only checked each run and topped up to half way if necessary. It was only replaced maybe twice a year or if something broke![>:].
Auto differential oil or the oil mentioned above is fine. Do not use oil that is too thick as this will generate a lot of heat very quickly and loose a lot of its lubricating powers. It is ok when in the water but with the engine running on land it can get very hot very quickly.
If you need to remove the lower shaft (I think I saw a photo above with some specially made pliers) The bearing housing was a close machined finish and held in place using Loctite 308 (uk number so I am not sure of the US number). This is the same Loctite used for holding the grub screws in the gears and is (was) the strongest loctite available.
To disassemble without damaging the units you need to heat the housing (the casting) with a small gas torch I think if I recall to about 300degrees F. At this temperature the loctite degrades and you can easily remove the parts. In a painted unit this destroys the paint so you need to repaint them however on the speedmaster (polished) units it is not a problem.
Hope this is of help
Regards
Bob
keep it coming [sm=49_49.gif]
02-23-2009, 03:30 PM
#346
Thread Starter
RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
ORIGINAL: joe rocket
85-90 gear oil
85-90 gear oil
Hirobo Volvo Penta Out Drive Unit look at the sise of the boat ><> [X(]
02-23-2009, 08:08 PM
#347
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: RHINELANDER, WI
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RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
I think they are awesome. I'm sure that they just give them away.lol I know you need to build an offshore cat with twin gas inboards.Now that would be fun. When are you getting the AMPS site up and running?
02-23-2009, 10:15 PM
#348
Thread Starter
RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
lol for $850 each they can keep them lol[:'(] i will stick with some thing like this lol >> i love paint boys dumas boat !! im going to try the mhz's out drives on a MTI cat i have just siting around ><> se what hapends >> i was at the palm beach rc boat race this week end and saw a guy with one of the ossie 1/4 tunnel hulls with a 2/brothers gas outboard .did not do so well the lower scag is to short , spun out to much it is a gear driven unit ><>< i whant to look in this lower end <last pic>
02-23-2009, 10:37 PM
#349
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RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
I know their is a guy in Denver area that built an 7 ft deepvee with carnellos outdrives. Maybe I can find him if you need alittle help with it. Only 850 i think I'll buy two LOL. I think I'd rather buy one for my 225 Johnson for a spare.
02-24-2009, 10:56 AM
#350
Thread Starter
RE: AMPS hulls & outboards pics& tips
ORIGINAL: joe rocket
I know their is a guy in Denver area that built an 7 ft deepvee with carnellos outdrives. Maybe I can find him if you need alittle help with it. Only 850 i think I'll buy two LOL. I think I'd rather buy one for my 225 Johnson for a spare.
I know their is a guy in Denver area that built an 7 ft deepvee with carnellos outdrives. Maybe I can find him if you need alittle help with it. Only 850 i think I'll buy two LOL. I think I'd rather buy one for my 225 Johnson for a spare.
look what rccolecter did with his old Kanellos drive made a outboard with it .. i look at some old pice of one and the top cover looks like it comes off to work on .,, i like that .. now i want 2 of them lol