AMPS hulls & outboards pics & tips {Agnew Model Propulsion Systems}
#1952
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I want to share the 3 Seebold Tunnels I currently have. I just got the 3rd one, ironically numbered #3, in yesterday. The interesting part, is the hull #3 and #11 were both bought by two friends back in 1986 as gifts from their wives. I purchased the #11 hull 2 weeks ago from the one guy, and he told me about his friend having the other and had me contact him. We worked out a deal, and the #3 boat arrived yesterday. On a hunch, I decided to check the serial numbers...consecutive numbers! #122 and #123, both built in September 1986. Needless to say, i think these two should share the same home for as long as they are in one piece. Both boats were purchased as assembled, ready to run hulls, and were packaged with the same outboard and running gear. Something I also learned from hulls #3 and #11 vs. my #1 hull, is look at the cowling..Apparently International Hobbies offered two different cowlings. Unfortunately my #1 hull someone detailed the transom out with matte black paint and covered the serial number, so I am not certain what year that hull is. I may try and remove that paint at some point tho. Then maybe we can figure out which version IH offered first! Mike
#1953
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Wow! I never noticed the differant cowls even though mine are sitting near each other . I have four of these seebolds. 2 with each style cowl. The easiest one for me to get off the shelf and check has cowling like your #1 my numbers are s/323/6/87
#1954
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I will have to try and get that black paint off my #1 hull where the serial number is so I can see when it was built. It would be cool to know what everyones serial numbers were so we could catalog all of them. Probably to much to ask, but it would be fun. Mike
#1963
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I want to share the 3 Seebold Tunnels I currently have. I just got the 3rd one, ironically numbered #3, in yesterday. The interesting part, is the hull #3 and #11 were both bought by two friends back in 1986 as gifts from their wives. I purchased the #11 hull 2 weeks ago from the one guy, and he told me about his friend having the other and had me contact him. We worked out a deal, and the #3 boat arrived yesterday. On a hunch, I decided to check the serial numbers...consecutive numbers! #122 and #123, both built in September 1986. Needless to say, i think these two should share the same home for as long as they are in one piece. Both boats were purchased as assembled, ready to run hulls, and were packaged with the same outboard and running gear. Something I also learned from hulls #3 and #11 vs. my #1 hull, is look at the cowling..Apparently International Hobbies offered two different cowlings. Unfortunately my #1 hull someone detailed the transom out with matte black paint and covered the serial number, so I am not certain what year that hull is. I may try and remove that paint at some point tho. Then maybe we can figure out which version IH offered first! Mike
So it looks as if there was a slight change in top canopies on the 1987 line up.
#1964
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Great detective work! So it is decided that the 86-87 model year change for the Seebold hull is when the cowling design changed over. What I found even more interesting, is in one of the earlier brochures I found this Seebold. Notice the cowling is different, and the graphics are completely different from the 86/87 graphics. At first I thought maybe this was a prototype or something, but I found a partial pic last week from one of our members Seebolds. I didn't save it at the time, and I am not sure I can find it again as it was pure luck. The member that posted this has recently been on this thread. Maybe they will recognize this, and share a good pic with us! Another thing I find interesting, the outboard in the pic is the 84-85 style Merc...in the full size version..So that means, that this outboard didn't exist before this..Does that mean this could be an 84-85 Seebold?
#1966
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Man, I gotta run one of my Seebolds. Too cool!
I want to show you what I have been working on. I figured I would never find an original Suzuki outboard, so I decided using various pictures, just to make a plug and mold I made my own decal set as well and had a friend print them on his high end vinyl printer. Here are the results! Not an original, but it will look really nice on the back of my Skeeter Bass Boat! One will be used on an AMPS lower, the other a 3.5 K&B. I am making my own mid section cover for the K&B so it will look real from the water line up. I will share that when I am done as well,
I want to show you what I have been working on. I figured I would never find an original Suzuki outboard, so I decided using various pictures, just to make a plug and mold I made my own decal set as well and had a friend print them on his high end vinyl printer. Here are the results! Not an original, but it will look really nice on the back of my Skeeter Bass Boat! One will be used on an AMPS lower, the other a 3.5 K&B. I am making my own mid section cover for the K&B so it will look real from the water line up. I will share that when I am done as well,
#1968
Senior Member
Wow! That is amazing. It is nice to see someone with so much talent taking the time to something like this. You know I found that you can get a pretty"Scale" look when you use the hyperformance lower unit
#1970
Senior Member
One of my International hobbies tunnels with a brushless outboard on it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoi_MVsC-W4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoi_MVsC-W4
#1971
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RCCollector,
Is that the amps gear drive below the outboard cowling, or a flex cable version? What motor, esc and lipo setup are you running? Any help would be great as I want to set my Velden up on 6s sometime soon. I know I cannot power it as hard as my SAW race tunnel on 6s (78.43mph combined, 79.5mph fast pass, IMPBA current 6s lipo record), which means finding a KV that will push the boat, but not blow out the gears!
Also, if anyone on here has any spare Amps outboard brackets, the 2 piece mount that holds the outboard to the boat and has the steering hinge, I would love to purchase a couple as I want to set up some of my hulls with K&B 3.5 lowers, but still get the "trim - a - bility" feature that the Amps bracket offers. I have plenty of trim mechanisms so that is not a need. My email is [email protected] if anyone does. Thanks.
Got the Suzuki lower painted, the 3.6gt mid painted, and the Evinrude 3.6XP cowling painted last night. All turned out well! How nice does that XP dark blue look! I got the PPG paint codes. Everything is base/ clearcoat. Mike
Is that the amps gear drive below the outboard cowling, or a flex cable version? What motor, esc and lipo setup are you running? Any help would be great as I want to set my Velden up on 6s sometime soon. I know I cannot power it as hard as my SAW race tunnel on 6s (78.43mph combined, 79.5mph fast pass, IMPBA current 6s lipo record), which means finding a KV that will push the boat, but not blow out the gears!
Also, if anyone on here has any spare Amps outboard brackets, the 2 piece mount that holds the outboard to the boat and has the steering hinge, I would love to purchase a couple as I want to set up some of my hulls with K&B 3.5 lowers, but still get the "trim - a - bility" feature that the Amps bracket offers. I have plenty of trim mechanisms so that is not a need. My email is [email protected] if anyone does. Thanks.
Got the Suzuki lower painted, the 3.6gt mid painted, and the Evinrude 3.6XP cowling painted last night. All turned out well! How nice does that XP dark blue look! I got the PPG paint codes. Everything is base/ clearcoat. Mike
#1972
Senior Member
That is just a flex cable lower. I cosidered putting the motor on the amps lower but decided not to chance breaking gears. Plus satisfactory cleanup of the gear drive lower after running in the salwater is a pain. I am running $38 tunigy 4074 1400kv and a Turnigy 180 esc both from hobbyking. I ran it with a leopard 4092 motor at first but found that the turnigy is close enough for a sport boat and cheap to replace if needed. Once again, I am running in salt and the motor gets a lot of spray! I submerge it in fresh after every run spray with corrosion block inside and lube the bearings the best I can.
#1973
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Great info! You using a K&B 3.5 size lower? I have found those accept the AMPS cowlings very well and are pretty much mount the cowl at the same height, so that is nice. Oh, are you using Trim with yours? Thanks for sharing, Mike
#1974
Senior Member
It's a hyperformance lower with a dpi Mercury cover. Are you going to be selling those amps covers your making? I actually made a copy of the evinrude v8 one from fiberglass quite a while back in the past but my mold was not that great so it took a lot of finish work. Came out nice though
#1975
Senior Member
Its a 7.5 size lower by the way, I don't think the 3.5 would hold up too long. Could be wrong though..No trim on mine just a stock K&B mount. I never seem to use the trim when I run my amps outboard just seem to set it where I like it and leave it. I had to make a couple of transom clamps for my amps outboards out of billet aluminum that I could not find but on my old milling machine it took me so long it's only worth doing for myself when I need one just barely
Last edited by rcollector; 06-05-2014 at 02:51 PM.