make it faster?
#1
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make it faster?
I have a miss elam 1/12 nitro that I want to make faster. Was going to switch out motor from probaot .18 to an os .18 but will it be worth the money. Anybody else have suggestions for me. Any input will be great. Thanks.
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RE: make it faster?
Well the OS CV-RMx or one of my stage 1 modded Go Engine .18's would be your best bets, and both will definitely out perform the PB.18. The bigger issue is making the boat handle the power\speed. The PB hydro's are good First Time boats, and a lot of fun, until that Need For Speed creeps up on ya. It takes a bit of hull set up modification to get that boat to Stay On the water over 40mph.
You can upgrade your prop to a metal prop if you haven't already, an Octura Y535 is a good Starting Point.
You can Increase the Nitro% in your fuel and get a Quite a bit more performance.
If you haven't removed the shims under the head yet Do So, it will increase compression which will increase HP.
You can trim 1\4"in off the header and bend the tuned pipe Brkt. on the back to hold the tuned pipe forward more, the length of the pipe and header controls Max RPM's. Shorter means Higher RPM's
If you hope to do much over 40mph and Enjoy it, I suggest you look for something with a bit more modification room and suitable for higher speeds.
You can upgrade your prop to a metal prop if you haven't already, an Octura Y535 is a good Starting Point.
You can Increase the Nitro% in your fuel and get a Quite a bit more performance.
If you haven't removed the shims under the head yet Do So, it will increase compression which will increase HP.
You can trim 1\4"in off the header and bend the tuned pipe Brkt. on the back to hold the tuned pipe forward more, the length of the pipe and header controls Max RPM's. Shorter means Higher RPM's
If you hope to do much over 40mph and Enjoy it, I suggest you look for something with a bit more modification room and suitable for higher speeds.
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RE: make it faster?
Good advice as usual amax. My aquacraft o.s.18 is done anyway. I thought if I'm replacing it anyway, why not go with the more powerful o.s.18. Apparently it just drops in. Not sure about other engines and mounts or exhaust though. I've seen a lot of those go engines going pretty cheep, but I've read people have issues with them.
#5
RE: make it faster?
I did see K&B out with a .18 mecoa pull start The price is very reasonable. part's are easy to get. I haven't seen one run. probable just a sport engine.
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RE: make it faster?
K&B out with a .18 mecoa pull start
yep I had one a couple years ago, brand new and missing a port in the block, Not saying bad about K&B engines as I like them BUT watch them as the QC is crap
yep I had one a couple years ago, brand new and missing a port in the block, Not saying bad about K&B engines as I like them BUT watch them as the QC is crap
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RE: make it faster?
For the most part both engines will fit with minimal effort. The CV-RMx will give you an issue with the header and carb touching. You will need to file some of the outside edge of the velocity stack on the carb, and put a small dent in the header where the Throttle Arm hits it when at WOT. The Go Engine has a thinner rim around the stack so it clears no problem. With both engines you will need to drill the holes in the stock alum. engine mount and use long 4-40ss bolts with nylock nuts on the bottom.
Both engine will need At Least a 435\3 prop, and if you run high nitro or do any modding, it better be a pretty aggressive cut on the prop so your not Over revving. Star considering a Strut and Drive Shaft Upgrade,,[:-] to a .150 shaft with a 3\16 stub for larger props, and an adjustable strut set up, which does take a little skill to do. the 437\3 works Much Better with both engines, running good fuel.
Like This
The Go Engines design is Very Similar to that of the OS CV-RMx with some of the OS TZ Characteristics. The main issue with the Stock Go Engines is the Head design is wrong for a marine engine and the carb is to small. Another reason for people having issues with the Go is tuning. The Go Engines run a bit Cooler than other engines and people try to Lean them out to Raise temp to where Other engines run, it ain't gonna happen. The Go Engines have much larger transfer areas cut into the block(especially the side exhaust blocks) which provides more cooling to the cylinder, so the engine runs cooler when at Optimum Fuel Mixture Setting. It also has higher intake and exhaust port durations, which means a Narrower Optimum Mixture Range. You need to make Smaller Needle adjustments when dialing it in or you pass right by the sweet spot.
My stage 1 modded Go Engines come with My custom made Head and a Modified Carb, which makes it much more suitable for the Marine market. I have been getting better performance from the Go than I have from all but 1 CV-RM I ever ran, and it was one that I fully modified, raised port height to there max, modded block, piston, + outside and bottom of sleeve, optimized carb, Full MACS Exhaust . It ran 48mph and I have only reached 47mph with the stage 1 modded Go Engine.
But I also run Much Higher Nitro than the Average Guy and have spent a lot of time running and tuning Both engines in numerous set ups. Not everybody will get the same results as I do.
This is what Over Revving the OS CV-RMx with a M435\3 Prop Sounds Like,,,[:@]
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=afNQO1tI9uE[/youtube]
This is the Full Mod OS CV-RMx
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8qeJyE4ErU&feature=channel[/youtube]
This is the Stage 1 Modded Go Engine in the same boat.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1f37-cYN6j8&feature=channel[/youtube]
Both engine will need At Least a 435\3 prop, and if you run high nitro or do any modding, it better be a pretty aggressive cut on the prop so your not Over revving. Star considering a Strut and Drive Shaft Upgrade,,[:-] to a .150 shaft with a 3\16 stub for larger props, and an adjustable strut set up, which does take a little skill to do. the 437\3 works Much Better with both engines, running good fuel.
Like This
The Go Engines design is Very Similar to that of the OS CV-RMx with some of the OS TZ Characteristics. The main issue with the Stock Go Engines is the Head design is wrong for a marine engine and the carb is to small. Another reason for people having issues with the Go is tuning. The Go Engines run a bit Cooler than other engines and people try to Lean them out to Raise temp to where Other engines run, it ain't gonna happen. The Go Engines have much larger transfer areas cut into the block(especially the side exhaust blocks) which provides more cooling to the cylinder, so the engine runs cooler when at Optimum Fuel Mixture Setting. It also has higher intake and exhaust port durations, which means a Narrower Optimum Mixture Range. You need to make Smaller Needle adjustments when dialing it in or you pass right by the sweet spot.
My stage 1 modded Go Engines come with My custom made Head and a Modified Carb, which makes it much more suitable for the Marine market. I have been getting better performance from the Go than I have from all but 1 CV-RM I ever ran, and it was one that I fully modified, raised port height to there max, modded block, piston, + outside and bottom of sleeve, optimized carb, Full MACS Exhaust . It ran 48mph and I have only reached 47mph with the stage 1 modded Go Engine.
But I also run Much Higher Nitro than the Average Guy and have spent a lot of time running and tuning Both engines in numerous set ups. Not everybody will get the same results as I do.
This is what Over Revving the OS CV-RMx with a M435\3 Prop Sounds Like,,,[:@]
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=afNQO1tI9uE[/youtube]
This is the Full Mod OS CV-RMx
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8qeJyE4ErU&feature=channel[/youtube]
This is the Stage 1 Modded Go Engine in the same boat.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1f37-cYN6j8&feature=channel[/youtube]
#8
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RE: make it faster?
Amax, Thanks for the advice. What kind of pricing on these motors? Are these mods all possible for a newb to do, with the aid of a 6 pack?
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RE: make it faster?
The Side exhaust Stage 1 Go Engine, I have In Stock.
I make the heads on the lathe using 6061-T6 aluminum stock, they have an improved combustion chamber diameter and volume, improved squish band design, and a taller boss on top to accept long glow plugs like the McCoy plugs and leave no threads hanging inside the combustion chamber.
The carb I boar out on the mill to .280" then fine tune and polish using various bits with the dremel.
Any port changes must be very accurate, in most cases your only taking Less than .020" and it's very easy to go to far.
You might want to save the six pack till after the work is done, If you like your fingers and you want the engine to actually work when your done,,LOL.[:-]
PM me for pricing as per RCU Rules.
I make the heads on the lathe using 6061-T6 aluminum stock, they have an improved combustion chamber diameter and volume, improved squish band design, and a taller boss on top to accept long glow plugs like the McCoy plugs and leave no threads hanging inside the combustion chamber.
The carb I boar out on the mill to .280" then fine tune and polish using various bits with the dremel.
Any port changes must be very accurate, in most cases your only taking Less than .020" and it's very easy to go to far.
You might want to save the six pack till after the work is done, If you like your fingers and you want the engine to actually work when your done,,LOL.[:-]
PM me for pricing as per RCU Rules.
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RE: make it faster?
Amax, just out of curiousty, what are the hull dimensions of your red hydro w/ .18? Your sure cranking it up good with a small motor. Guessing high nitro and light weight.... What does it weigh? BTW, good lookin' boat.....
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RE: make it faster?
It's just a stock Pro Boat Formula 1\12 Hydro hull with a Mild modded OS CV-RMx. That was before I went to an adjustable strut and upgraded flex shaft so I could run the Octura X437\3 prop.
I put a non pull start Go Engine .18 in it and did quite a bit more weight shuffling and hull work to Improve handling and stability over 40mph.
Made new motor mounts to move the engine forward to move the center of gravity(CG) forward and aluminum covers over the rubber mounts to stiffen them up.
Moved the battery pack in front of the engine for CG also
Changed the servo set up to decrease weight and get it further forward in the box.
Did a lot of work on the bottom improving ride pads and such. But it didn't Last Long,,LOL,, I never even got vid of it before the fun was over...
Around 45mph She had Lift Off,,LOL,,[X(] Went about 10'ft. off the water, I lost count of the flips and spins in the air,,,Then it Hit the water again,,, And She Was Done!!
I put a non pull start Go Engine .18 in it and did quite a bit more weight shuffling and hull work to Improve handling and stability over 40mph.
Made new motor mounts to move the engine forward to move the center of gravity(CG) forward and aluminum covers over the rubber mounts to stiffen them up.
Moved the battery pack in front of the engine for CG also
Changed the servo set up to decrease weight and get it further forward in the box.
Did a lot of work on the bottom improving ride pads and such. But it didn't Last Long,,LOL,, I never even got vid of it before the fun was over...
Around 45mph She had Lift Off,,LOL,,[X(] Went about 10'ft. off the water, I lost count of the flips and spins in the air,,,Then it Hit the water again,,, And She Was Done!!
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RE: make it faster?
Oh Not as many as I would have liked, it didn't completely destroy her, Just the cowl, it got ripped off. It tweaked one of the wing upright pretty good a cracked all around the base of it and split a sponson. I moved on to the Miss Attitude project after that, and I'm still trying to build an engine to fast for her,,lol.[8D]
When I get one dialed in I'm usually pretty quick to get my camera man on the job,,LOL,, Before IT happens. I shoulda Had him filming when IT did happen,, It was an Awesome Flight,,, For a boat...[:@]
When I get one dialed in I'm usually pretty quick to get my camera man on the job,,LOL,, Before IT happens. I shoulda Had him filming when IT did happen,, It was an Awesome Flight,,, For a boat...[:@]
#14
RE: make it faster?
,amax as usual Another good article with video . The header looks like one of a kind. Is that a little mac pipe also . The side exhaust engine is very impressive. Your turn fin is that stock pro boat. or you running a mod? your length of pipe ?? I need to watch the first video another time. the over rev lost me.
#15
RE: make it faster?
I like what was said about making changes to the radio box set up. I would have taken it further still and moved the whole radio into the cockpit area and installed the fuel tank(s) under the deck(s) beside the engine to lighten up the back end even further. With a boat of this size, the CG needs to be within 1" of the sponson transom to keep it on the water. Sharpening up the sponson runners would be a benefit as well
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RE: make it faster?
Thanks I try,,
The header Was a MACS wrap to center that I helped develop for another company, That We Don't Speak Of Here , I cut it and modded it to run straight back and then the pipe angles across, So I had more room for the belt start.
Breakaway Turn Fin, Rudder, and adjustable strut were from the same company, That We Don't Speak Of Here, and is no longer in the boat biz.
HJ I considered going further with that set up, but I really wanted to run that engine, and didn't want to wait that long to do it. I had the engine even further forward than that but I wanted to get the 1\4lb 5 cell battery out of the radio box and up front. I did A Lot of work on the bottom of that boat perfecting the foot print, it never would have went as well as it did without it. I'm a Firm Believer in Printing the bottom, and doing Whatever It Takes to get it perfect. Truing the ride surface and squaring off the edges is like putting a good sticky set of tires on a race car.
The header Was a MACS wrap to center that I helped develop for another company, That We Don't Speak Of Here , I cut it and modded it to run straight back and then the pipe angles across, So I had more room for the belt start.
Breakaway Turn Fin, Rudder, and adjustable strut were from the same company, That We Don't Speak Of Here, and is no longer in the boat biz.
HJ I considered going further with that set up, but I really wanted to run that engine, and didn't want to wait that long to do it. I had the engine even further forward than that but I wanted to get the 1\4lb 5 cell battery out of the radio box and up front. I did A Lot of work on the bottom of that boat perfecting the foot print, it never would have went as well as it did without it. I'm a Firm Believer in Printing the bottom, and doing Whatever It Takes to get it perfect. Truing the ride surface and squaring off the edges is like putting a good sticky set of tires on a race car.
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RE: make it faster?
LOL,, I did,, It just Wasn't a pro boat hydro,, The Pro Boat hydros are great first time hydros to get your feet wet with, and they are cool looking, but built for speed their not.
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RE: make it faster?
"Are these mods possible for a newb with a six pack?" I think I like this guy. Like me he wants simple bolt in performance enhancements. Nice to know if an o.s.18 worth almost twice as much as the comparible k&b or go.
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RE: make it faster?
Hey I'm not gonna Lie and say I haven't had My Share and then some of Pro Boats, and YES my First R\C Boat Was a Miss Bud,, and I thought that was The Baddest Little Boat in The World,,[:-][X(] Until it broke[:@]
For what it is the PB Hydro's are good boats for what your paying, It Is a Scale Boat or the closest to scale in that class, and when you look at what the full size version is doing compared to it. Scale wise it should only do about 25mph on a good day,[:'(][&:] So 40+ ain't bad. Scale that the other way and think about what you would have,,,[>:]
But when the Speed Bug finally gets a big ole mouth full of your butt, the PB Hydro's will go On The Shelf, and the Demon starts to come to life.[>:]
I still have a few PB hulls layin around I pick up,, Look At,,,, Consider the things "I Could Do" to it, to make it better, then set it down and go back to work on the 1,000 projects I have going already,,LOL.
For what it is the PB Hydro's are good boats for what your paying, It Is a Scale Boat or the closest to scale in that class, and when you look at what the full size version is doing compared to it. Scale wise it should only do about 25mph on a good day,[:'(][&:] So 40+ ain't bad. Scale that the other way and think about what you would have,,,[>:]
But when the Speed Bug finally gets a big ole mouth full of your butt, the PB Hydro's will go On The Shelf, and the Demon starts to come to life.[>:]
I still have a few PB hulls layin around I pick up,, Look At,,,, Consider the things "I Could Do" to it, to make it better, then set it down and go back to work on the 1,000 projects I have going already,,LOL.
#22
RE: make it faster?
What size is your fuel tank amax? My .12NR zip seams to eat nitro fast. They have a 4 oz tank. Still kinda new the engine . IF your run in a heat you want to launch under 30 sec. all most like a electric in your video it seamed you got a long run.
#23
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RE: make it faster?
Well here's a good upgrade for ya that I wish I would have tried when I was running the PB Hydro's. As mentioned the radio box needs a bit of weight shifting or removal, the PB Hydro's are very Tail Heavy.
Replace the 4-AA battery holder with a Lipo Battery and a UBEC.
The 6v 5 cell hump back NiMh pack that I use is just over 1\4lb at 121g. A 4.8v 4-AA cell NiMh pack is just Under 1\4lb at 108g, the Stock battery set up is about the same.
The 7.2v [link=http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1458/Lipo-Battery-7.4v-/Detail]800mah Lipo[/link] is a mear 1.5oz\43g, and the [link=http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1411/UBEC-3-Amp-/Detail]UBEC[/link] weighs only 9g. I just ordered the 800mah Lipo set up for my JAE12G Rigger, Depending on what run time I get from the 800mah, they have a 600mah that weighs 1.1oz\31g or even better a 400mah that's .9oz\26g and it's Dinky Dimensions: 1.4 x 0.75 x 0.75 inches. I think I'll be upgrading a few boats to Lipo's soon I know my little sport .18 hydro's will love to see that 1\4lb anchor go.
[link=http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1458/Lipo-Battery-7.4v-/Detail]800mah Lipo[/link]
[link=http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1411/UBEC-3-Amp-/Detail]UBEC[/link]
Replace the 4-AA battery holder with a Lipo Battery and a UBEC.
The 6v 5 cell hump back NiMh pack that I use is just over 1\4lb at 121g. A 4.8v 4-AA cell NiMh pack is just Under 1\4lb at 108g, the Stock battery set up is about the same.
The 7.2v [link=http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1458/Lipo-Battery-7.4v-/Detail]800mah Lipo[/link] is a mear 1.5oz\43g, and the [link=http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1411/UBEC-3-Amp-/Detail]UBEC[/link] weighs only 9g. I just ordered the 800mah Lipo set up for my JAE12G Rigger, Depending on what run time I get from the 800mah, they have a 600mah that weighs 1.1oz\31g or even better a 400mah that's .9oz\26g and it's Dinky Dimensions: 1.4 x 0.75 x 0.75 inches. I think I'll be upgrading a few boats to Lipo's soon I know my little sport .18 hydro's will love to see that 1\4lb anchor go.
[link=http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1458/Lipo-Battery-7.4v-/Detail]800mah Lipo[/link]
[link=http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1411/UBEC-3-Amp-/Detail]UBEC[/link]