upnorth

I am just breaking in my .12 and the manual says 3 turns out on the HSN but it wont respond to opening the throttle. just slobbers. It says to put a drop of water on the head and it should sizzle away in 3-5 seconds, but in order to do that I have to turn the HSN out only 2 turns. Is this too lean? How long should I run with over-rich setting? I have run 4 tanks through so far.
thanks.

amax

Most instruction books are just a guide line not a bible, No 1 setting will work in all locations or even in the same location on any given day.
If it is bogging when you try to rev it then it is way to rich, and even when breaking in there is a such thing as To Rich. Your engine must get hot to properly break in.
If you have 4 tanks through it you should definitely be leaning it out a bit. A Infrared temp gun is a much better tool to use for checking temp than the Water Test, and a good tool to have in your track box for aid in tuning for peak performance.
Each engine has it own Sweet Spot that it runs best at 170*F to 190*F is were most find it at.
If your engine is not getting hot, it's not expanding completely internally and letting everything seal properly for peak performance.

JWMods

The car/buggy guys really have an advantage here with the break-in. Dealing with water cooling on a inboard application can be difficult knowing your hot enough out on the water and still rich to propperly lube the thing. Both things are so very important for the critical break-in. Putting on the smallest silicone tubing possible for water cooling is one way to get the heat up. Largely this is not quite enough and installing a smaller brass tube pinched down some more in the water exit will start getting you close.

The real deal is here is that the more you can cut the water down, the more fuel you can use for break-in and still be able to run on the water quite well. Its tough for some to consider I know, but if you think about it, you will notice that if full water was going thru there you would have to lean the needle to get a reasonable response out on the water (pond). On the other hand, if the artificial (water) cooling was cut down, the needle would have to opened more for the same "reasonable" response. Without opening the needle with the water severely restricted will give you a runaway scalded cat scenario that you don't want. Keeping it fairly rich will save the motor from damage easy since you have so much more fuel and lube going thru than ever. The difference can be as much as a 1/3rd or 1/2 TURN Richer on the needle over full water, and you will learn about real tuning in the process.

joseywales

try it at 2 1/2- 2 3/4 turns out.

upnorth

Thanks a lot you guys. It is a buggy engine (air cooled) on an outboard, so temp gun reading are easy to do, as I have a temp gun already. Thanks again, Happy boating.

JWMods

OOh, My kinda guy,, its easier to do alot of the break-in right on the bench with an aircooled O/B. I posted it on here somewhere don't remember exactly where.

amax

OH,, you didn't say that before. The Air Cooled engine temps will be a bit higher then what I stated.

JWMods

Wait a minute, a .12 on a O/B??? what are you, Rod Geraghty I'd like to see this

upnorth

I'm guessing Rod Geraghty does crazy mods or something? I was given the boat by a friend so I dont know if this was the original engine or not. The boat is a ABC Hobby Freedom RZ. I know, kinda plasticky cheepy, but seems stable and sure dont weigh much. When I get it dialed in I'll post a video.