RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

i dont know how fast it is josh because it ran for 4 minites at most with only about 10% throttle so how to i get rid of flexshaft problems?? i just spent some money on a shaft so i dont want to break it again

PS look at my future plans for a sw36 hull at the fourum titled 15cc SHOCKWAVE 36

thanx:D

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

My shockwave 36 does the same thing, so did you figure out what to do about the chine-walking?

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

After putting all the air flow holes in for more ventalation did you notice a difference in the shockwaves performance?

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

[8D]Hey Ron, in regardes to the shockwave 36 chine-walking. What do you mean its usally because the props not quite high enogh. As I have mentioned I'm having the same problem with my shockwave.

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

With my experience with chine-walk, I had an Aeromarine Titan 21 that chine-walked badly at over half throttle. I had to redrill the hole exiting the transom and raise the strut a little until it quit. There must be a point where you are going from subsurface to surface drive that gives you problems.

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

strut, meaning where the prop flex shaft comes out the back right? Gosh I would hate to drill any holes in the new hull.

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

I hated to do it also. I got kind of smart when I built mine, I used Shoo-Goo to hold mine in place so it was easy to cut it away and relocate the stuffing tube. With your SW 36, you will probably have problems doing this. I haven't seen under the radio box but the tube is probably held in there pretty well.
Try a smaller prop, that might help also. I've always felt the the stock Prather prop was too much for that motor anyway.

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

I'm going to make an attempt to take my shockwave out for its first run. Went to do it today and realized I forgot my glow plug igniter.[:@]

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

Yes I have also heard about the smaller prop, about what size should I go with, I think right now the stock shockwave 36 comes with Prather 230( I think). Does sound about right? By the way I looked at the boats you had in your gallery I think there was only 2 (they looked awsome). Do you have any more boats pics? Have you seen my boat pic in my gallery?

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

I think that it comes with the P-235. You could take it down to the 230, 225 or as small as the 220.
Yes, I've got a lot of pix of my fleet, I don't remember which ones I posted.

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

shockwave 36 comes stock w/ the P 230

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

Will the smaller prop slow the boat down? How much do the props that I need cost?

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

Not really. A smaller prop will allow the boat to get up to speed faster and rev higher. There are limits of course. The going price depends on the size and sometimes the material but expect to pay around $15.00 or so for one, more if it has already been sharpened and balanced.

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

If you get a chance Ron, I'd like to see some of your other boats, you sound like you know what you are doing [sm=thumbup.gif]. Does anybody else have any shockwave 36 action photos?:D:D

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

I need to get them all together and do a group photo of them sometime. Right now about half of them or more are torn down for the winter being redone in one way or another. I have to get in gear, the spring thaw isn't that far off!

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

So why would they sell a unbalanced unsharpend prop??[sm=confused.gif]. So what size prop would you buy knowing what size prop that the boat comes with, or would you have to drive the boat to know? Wait, do you have a shockwave 36?

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

I bought a on-board digital read out temp gauge on ebay:). The spit or water temp check is to old fashion for me :D.

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

I gotta go catch some z's, I got school tomarrow[:'(][:@]:([>:][:o][&o][X(][&:]

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

I'll catch ya tomarrow after school.

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

Yeah, I'm still up. I work the 3-11 shift at my job so I'm in here during the morning and late at night. No, I don't own any ProBoat boat but have worked on plenty of them.
Props are sold as is right out of the molds, you have to do the work yourself, have someone else do it or buy them from someone who does the work. I recently bought some from Andy Brown at Competiton Marine Design to see how my work compared to his. Actually I heard that there is a woman that works for him that does the basic sharpening and balancing work. He has a Prop Wall on his site that they update daily with what they have available already done.
I have a cross-reference sheet that comes in handy. It's pretty nice. It shows props made by Octura, Prather and ABC showing diameter and pitch in both SAE and Metric plus expected MPH figuring in a 15% slippage factor at about 6 or so RPM ranges.
For instance, your Prather 230 at 22,000 RPM with the slippage would make your boat go 53 MPH! As you see, something is amiss somewhere if yours can only do 30-35 MPH advertised speed. Yup, your boat won't do that kind of speed in stock form.

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

shockwave action photos...some are a little blurry, they were taken later in the day as the sun was goin down.

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

I have run my Shockwave 36 3 or 4 times and have learned big lessons each time. Admittedly it's my first boat, but geez.... Anyway, my flexshaft joint broke where the flex mates to the solid shaft. I heard about a trick to heat it up and pull it apart and put new solder in there. When heated, it seals again and won't come apart! Upon cooling it spins again. (expletive deleted). Anyway, I bought a new one from ProBoat and it's a little longer. How do you cut it?

Most importantly, what gap is everyone talking about? Is it between the nut in front of the prop to the back of the outboard vertical shaft support? If so, my new one is about 1/4" or slightly greater. Will that be a problem? How do you cut that flex wire?

Also, when greasing the drive shaft, do you stuff it full all the way up or just generously coat it and slide it in? Any tricks for that? Does the entire shaft have to be lubed or just that outrigger?

I hate to put so much in one email, but I've learned many lessons already (how to start without flooding, tighen screws on pull-start b/c they rattled out, have extra glow plugs, batteries, tools). I wish there was a list of all the stuff I need with me if I'm out on a weekend at the lake and want to be ready to repair and get back under way.

Any helpful hints would be appreciated from an excited newbie!

Thanks

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

I'm no expert, but i do have a little experince and i'm a top notch driver cars, boats, and planes. I have owned 4 boats and 4 cars. Currently i have 2 t-maxx, nitro 4-tec, and the shockwave 36 i love them all (by the way i would strongly suggest not buying the nitro wicked angel boat from megatec, i had it, that peice of crap i could burn it). Anyway, anyone feel free to disagree with me, but first of all about cutting the flex shaft, I'm pretty shure that you can just cut it with what ever will cut it. You could also cut it with the trusty dremel tool with the thin metal grinder tip on(thats what i would do), or not, there could be a right and wrong way to cut them. Second of all about the flex shaft gap, i think its between the outboard vertical shaft support end to the beggining of the prop. This is so that the flex shaft has room to expand and contract when off and on the throttle, if there is no room to expand and contract then there is major stress put on the flex shaft and can cause breakage. And keep that flex shaft greased all the time within 2 hours of run time. Third, you grease the whole shaft with a good coat and slide it back in. Grease is very important.

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

Adam, you did pretty good there. The way that I've been doing mine is to insert the uncut cable all the way in to the coupler. Measure the distance of what is sticking out. BTW, make sure that you already have the drive dog already mounted on the shaft, put the prop and prop nut on if you want to also but not neccessary at this time. Now find out how much extra cable that you have then add 1/4-3/16" to it for cable wind-up. now remove that much from the end of the cable to get the right length. A Dremel cut-off wheel will do the job. One more trick with the Dremel cut-off wheels. take a stack of 3 or 4 of them and put them on your mandrel. This makes a quick way to notch the shaft for the drive dog screw to have a flat spot to go. You don't have to go very deep, just enough to give the grub screw enough to bite into to keep the drive dog from slipping or rotating..

RE: shockwave 36 problems
 

does anyone no if the traxxas blue on board digital temp gauge is water proof?