consultjdm

Shadowin.

Two other things, which hole are you using on the connector to the tail assembly (I forgot what the setup looks like, I was working on a walkera 60 tail assy with an L type connector). Obviously you might consider using a different hole if that is an option. Secondly, and I like this alot, the rotor blade assembly itself may be able to be positioned further out on the tail rotor shaft. It does not take more than a couple milimeters to make a big difference.

JD

consultjdm

Trumphet,

Mine generally get just above warm, one gets closer to hot but I have some other problem with that one, probably something is sticky, the blades are too heavy, the blades are not as aerodynamic, the tail belt is too tight, the gear mesh angle is off, or the head speed is to low and of course then the pitch is too high over loading the motor.

Oh, I am runing 3 of them on the following helis, 450XL carbon all upgraded CNC, Copter X (like 450SE), Walkera 60.

JD

consultjdm

AeroDave,

I wonder if it would run as fast as the 13T on the 430L with a 12T but also gain a bunch of torque?

Are you useing the new dark blue main gear with the one-way removeable hub?

Jd

consultjdm

Shadowin, your using the little round disk that came with the S9650 servo right?

JD

consultjdm

Also to high of a sensitiviy setting slows the piro rate.

JD

AeroDave

JD, I've actually been thinking of that. It would be cool to get more torque for heavy collective moves. Hmmm. Now you've got me thinking again. No, all I have are the white gears. Heliproz ran out of the blue ones. But actually, until this they've ran great. 12T........ 12T.................. 12T.................. I'm supposed to go flying in an hour. I wonder if I should switch it out? Maybe I should actually try it this way first and see if it bogs or overspeeds. Since its on there, I mean. I've got point 4 on normal and idle up within 10% of each other, so I think the gear is safe. But torque..... 12T................ 12T.................. 12T..................longer flight times................. 12T...........................

consultjdm

AeroDave,

I switched my 450XL from the light blue main gear to the new dark Blue main gear and hub. The new dark blue gear is way stronger, it is made to go with the new motor, they hold up to the start up torque much better.

It was a simple switch, just buy the new gear (it comes with the top and bottom gear) and a few spare main gears and slide off the old gear and slide on the new one. (I used my old light blue tail belt gear). But when I switched from the white main gear and white pully gear to the light blue gear I did change my small front white gear (the really small one that the belt goes on) to the light blue gear to. So that is the setup that can take the switch to dark blue with no change in anything.

JD

AeroDave

got it, thanks. I've got light blue on everything except the main gear. Next order I'll get a mess of the dark blue ones.

shadowin

JD,

Yes i'm using the round disc that came with the S9650 servo. And it's on the middle of the 3 holes which is closest to the servo. Do i need to drill a hole closer to the servo or position the rotor blade assembly further out on the tail rotor shaft?

Rollin Thunder

I'm looking to speed up the cyclic on my W36. I've already got the lightest flybar weights and paddles available for the shogun. I'd like to eliminate the weights. The question is, How long is the Trex flybar and what is the diameter? I want to use that and the 6.11g paddles. The 36 is not a very good 3D heli but I want it to at least move when it's told. Sometimes I build up to much speed flying towards a tree line and can barely pull out. I asked this in the 36 thread but no reply yet. Other than that it's pretty much moded to the max. I'll have to get a Trex someday.

Thanks for any info.

starcop

Hello Rollin, The diameter is 1.8mm and the length is approx 8 1/2 inches. Mine is on the bird and my spare is packed away. I used a digital caliper on the dia. Had to use a tape measure for the length. Hope that answers your question. starcop

consultjdm

Shadowin,

I would move the blades out further on the shaft.

JD

cflight

Shadowin try moving your tail rotor hub out. Mine is flush at the end of the shaft, but I've heard of moving it out as far as possible to gain more piro speed (nose right). The grub screw will no longer grab in the recess on the shaft, if all else fails or you'ld rather go a different route, drill a hole closer to the shaft. You may find you need to raise your sensativity, as moving the connection towards the shaft lessens responce.

shadowin

Thanx for all the advices. I will move the tail rotor hub out then. Would there be any danger of the tail rotor slipping off when i'm flying the heli? Since the grub screw will not grab in the recess of the shaft.

consultjdm

Shadowin,

maybe you could gind it down if it's not flat to the end. I think I have some tail shafts on some helis that don't have any flat spot and they don't come off. But you might just try to see how far you can slide it before you pass out of the indentation and see if that is enough. This is so strange because I have never had the problem of to much servo travel and not being able to adjust it with the limit pot. Are you sure your gyro limit pot is not broken? Can you tell it changes the servo travel when you move it to it's extremes? Do you actually see the servo pushing the rudder slider all the way in and all the way out and it is bottoming out on both ends/sides? Are you sure you don't just have to slide the boom servo mount to center the slider on the rudder shaft?

JD

shadowin

JD,

I will try to slide it out to see what happens. I never thought that the gyro limit pot would be broken. Maybe i will try setting it to both extremes and see what happens also. I only see that the rudder pitch is at maximum before my Tx rudder stick reach the maximum input for both sides. So i guess that it's binding?

AeroDave

Yup, its binding. Shadowin, I think I remember when I was setting up the 401 on my Raptor I had something like this. It turns out I was turning the limiting pot the wrong way. Gosh, this has been a while ago, so I don't really remember, but you might try and turn it the other way and see what happens. Can't hurt. Seems to me your pushrod hole on your disc is plenty close to the servo. I run arms on my 9650's and both of them are longer than yours.

shadowin

AeroDave,

Ok i will try setting it the other way and see what happens. Will have to mess with it tomorrow, getting late now. Again, thanx for all the help.

krisnz

hi
i have the dx6 radio
i just got the 401 and s9650, just to clear some things up can i change the gyro from heading hold to normal from the tx,
also should i set the trim up by sliding the servo along the boom and test flying in normal mode and re adjusting,
also i think i need to put the rudder mixing back to 0 for this gyro

any other sugestions would be cool

thanks
kris

AeroDave

Kris, I don't have the DX. I'm sure one of the guys will jump in with good advice.

JD,
We were talking about blades a bit ago. I got the Radix (Youngblood) 325 blades and flew them tonight. Lots more hang time than with my Mavrikk carbons. But those are only 315. still they are wider (have a longer cord). I used the new motor 430XL, too. Really nice. The combination made tic tocs much easier to pull off without losing altitude. Also, flips in all directions seemed much more forgiving in terms of collective. At 45 dollars a pop, compared to 35 for the Mavrikks, I want a bunch of the Radix. I think its worth it.

tom235

hey guys i just got a 450sa and it flys pretty good but i have a wobble or a bounce when i hover any clues thanks for your help

Tom

consultjdm

Tom,

Which is it a wobble or bounce, or both.

The wobble is probably unbalanced blades, sometimes you just have bad luck and get a pair that are way off.

I had to balance a pair tonight that took 10 inches of tape I bet.

If you have a hop I would grab the top of the head and pull it up and down and see if the main gear moves up and down. you may need to adjust the locking collar on the main shaft by lowering it to the frame so you have a tight fit and the shaft can't move up and down anymore.

or, your pitch curve is not smooth enough for you. If you have a 5 point curve you could try 30, 40,55,70,100 . This assumes you lift off right at or one nudge up from mid stick and you want the center of the curve softer and you don't want to slam down to hard by accident.

Good luck.

JD

corona007

Tom,
If your tail is not hunting (dag tail wag), Then most likely its your head speed. Speed it up........

krisnz

cool i worked out how to change the gyro from heading hold to normal from the tx, but i need the mixing on zero how does it mix tail in non heading hold?
that s9650 survo is one big thing to mount onto the tail [sm=72_72.gif]
plus i found this 3 blade head posted here while i was looking for info on my new servo and gyro,
http://flying-hobby.com/catalog/prod...0308ea7f4d6af4

why have none of you put one on? i would get one if my heli was ccpm, its wicked

consultjdm

Aerodave,

I got several pair of the CNCheli XMseller blades, 325 carbon about $25.00 a pair.

I used two pair that were good, then crashed and replaced a pair and they were way out of balance. I did balance them and they work good now but sound a little funny I think with so much tape on them, a big hump. the do fff fine I'm not sure about 3D but I'm not there yet.
oh, and since I didn't suspect the blades, I thought it might be the main shaft or feathering shaft of course I pulled them and changed them, they were very very slightly bent, could barely see the bend on the counter top but could spot it when you put the old and new shafts next to each other. So I doubt I really needed to change them but its done now, anyway, it turned out to be the darn blades. Still worth the $25 if you crash them you don't cry as much, LOL.
And the ones that were in balance, at least they seem balanced, no shake at spin up, are a real deal.
JD