consultjdm

Trumphet,

Funny, my Astro Flight 109 charger is a lipo only charger for $100 or so bucks and only does lipo's up to 6amps and 5 cells (maybe 6 cells) and it doesn't charge through the balance plug either. I use a balancer like you. It's definatly a true lipo charger just not a balancer and charger.

I agree, the TRUE lipo charger lingo is a little misleading. Althought I do think balance chargers are a great way to go if you can get one that offers all the features you need. I needed the Astro Flight charger to charge my TP6000 battery for my Logo 10.

JD

soneebee

JD,

Wow that seems to be fast for 11T... I have not checked mine.. have no tach meter.. but I find it fast too using 11T.. Is it any good in comparison with your fully blinged 450XL.. I hope it can match your 450XL or even perform a little better....

consultjdm

Soneebee,

The copter X at that 3,000 RPM head speed has much more lift but it has more of a tendancy to lose altitude for some weird reason. So it's more difficult to hold a level altitude when doing figure 8's and jumpy when you give it pitch. Of course after a bit into the battery pack I get more used to it and can hold it pretty level. I will probably lower it back down to 2,750 rpm and see how I like it. But when I was at a lower speed (75% instead of 78% throttle curve) the tail didn't seem to hold as well but it could be broken in better now (my tail assy movement was still a little stiff and it's probaly smoothing out now). I will test it at a few different speeds. One thing I noticed is how docile the Trex was, not very strong lift next to the copter x because of the TREX's lower 2,400 RPM. But the Trex holds its altitude better doing figure eights and you can easily do figure eights 1 foot off the ground because it's so steady. I'm expecting to see the Trex's head speed come up when I test it with the new battery. I'm thinking 2600 to 2750 might be the speed I would like for both of them. Mostly all I do is figure 8's out in front of my house. The copter X is about the same as far as controlling the cyclic, so it's responding good to for/aft and left and right tilt inputs. I would obviously like to get them set about the same so I can switch between them and have about the same feel.

I'm really thinking it has to do with the difference in the main blades, okay, and the batteries. I probably should slap the trex's blades on the copter X as well as battery swapping and see what that does too.

I'll keep ya posted.

I have one of those hand held RPM meters.

JD

vladz

You just hold button (the only one Cellpro has) for 3-4 sec. and it goes into program mode.
I use "Auto" mode that way it will discover the battery capacity and will use 1C current.

armycopter

My align lipo charger works great, balances each cell, and charges my 2300mah 3s in a little over an hour. Total Cost-$60. I really like it because it plugs into an AC outlet vs needing 12V.

shemp308

Ok to make it simple the way I understand it is if the charger charges though the balancer plug it is a balance charger this say's it will charge all the batteries to the high end of what that battery will except if you have a charger that charges through the output plug it may be a lipo charger but not a balancer it will only charge all the cells until it get a full charge level but if one cell is not bad but just can't take what it did as new cell it will stop the charge and not all the cells will have a full charge making for shorter flight's and stressing the other cell by not having a full charge from the start! Also if one cell is bad the charger may continue to charge! But with a balancer charger it will See the bad cell and stop the charging before it has a chance to do any damage like a fire in your house! All i can say is i have a old house but i am not going to take a chance with it or my family! So i will go with the safest way i can! Again guys i am not a battery tech and only can tell you what i have read but this is what i found out and if any of you have any better info i will be happy to hear it
Shemp

Woodmandan2

Could anyone reccomend some good cheap chargers that ll charge lipo's? Ive been looking at the DN Power G2 Charger/Balancer. At only 60 Bux here, I think it may be better than me going out and buying a Triton Jr, Because i already have a nicad and nimh charger. This is i guess a True Lipo Charger, and i think ill be a little more efficent, and well it also comes with a balancer. Does anyone have any feedback on this charger?
Dan

vladz

I am using Cellpro 4s... in order to get 12V I've connected it to PC power supply. What I like best in it that this is an automatic charger/balancer. It will charge/balance each cell individually up to nominal value with most efficient current. And also it has LCD screen and shows various information like how many mAh lipo gets, voltage on each cell etc... cost in US around 65USD... you have to get converter or plug along with it because it uses non standard balance connector.

Well, I would never charge my lipo through dean connector... Lipo in heli works pretty much hard (almost on its limit), so cells become different and it's very important to keep them balanced for sake of longer life of the lipo.

Woodmandan2

Ok i still think i may buy the G2, caz i can get it really cheap here, and well I think it will work on like laptop cords, like i can get a 5a 12v powersupply at the Lhs, for a little over 10 bux, so i dont have to buy a really fancie 12v converter, which i am only going to have to get rid of when i move back to the usa in a year.
Dan

cflight

Dan, I use the DN charger. It works well and displays individual cell voltage, however unlike more expensive chargers it doesn't tell you how much mah went back into the pack. I think in the future I'll upgrade to TP bat.s and either a BC6 or Triton2 with ac/dc supply, and keep both running.

consultjdm

Vladz,

I am balancing the cells through the balance plug with a balancer as it charges through the deans connecter. The balancer keeps the cells balanced as it charges. I think that is just as effective as chargeing and balanceing through the balancing plug. And whats interesting is new batteries show very little balance activity via the flashing balancing lights. Plus I feel a little safer (especially with my TP6000 that charges at 6amps) with the big load going through the thicker main wires with the deans than the little thin wires on the balance plug.

When I first started I did not have a balancer. I charged my batteries over and over again and they lasted a long time, I still have a couple of those original batteries and they are working like new. I think the batteries stay pretty balanced on their own till they get older or you run them down to far or charge them to much or let them sit any length of time. When I got my balancer and balanced the old battteries they seemed to balance at the same speed as new batteries. When my batteries start to die they take much longer to balance and have a lot of balance activiy as they charge. And that coincides with a little swelling, the top of the battery starts to become slightly domed instead of real flat.

I have heard the balancer can extend the life 30% or so. But I've never put it to the test by using two of the same batteries, one with a balancer all the time and one without. But I have used a balancer all the time on a battery and had it die very prematurely. 30 charges.
I figure that battery had faulty components because I never overcharged it or charged it to fast or drained it to far. Don't quote me but I think there is some luck involved. And I'm not taking a chance I use my balancer whenever I charge.

I think either method is equally as good at balancing and protecting the battery but that is just my guess. It was done this way before balance chargers were around and everyone said it works and I don't believe it stopped working because there are balance charges now.

And I'm not looking for a fight about this, and I am not an authority on it, just adding some healthy discussion. If someone finds an article discussing the two methods and stating advantages and disadvantages of the two methods I would be interested to read it. I would do anything to perserve the life of the $330.00 TP6000 as long as I can.
And thank you in advance for helping to research this if you do find something that will help us all.

JD

cflight

Krisnz, I too am interested in the new Hyperion ESC , http://www.allerc.com/product_info.p...oducts_id=2885
Have you seen TP's new ESC , http://www.thunderpower-batteries.com/index.html with balance protection ?
I'm going with the Hyperion as it has a switching 4A BEC, which should run real cool and provide plenty of power, even with complex lighting running off the Rx or all digital servos.

shadowin

JD,

How do you find the new batteries from Unitedhobbies? I am planning to get some for my trex and it's so cheap compared to TP, so i can actually get a few for the same amount for 1 TP.

Yeah, 1 more thing. My DX7 have arrived yesterday and i plugged in the charger to charge the Tx. The red LED was on that time. Then later when i came back to check, LED light was gone. Only then i realised the input power is stated as 110V. Since my other chargers are 100-240V, do you think i would have damaged the charger? [:@] Now i have no idea how to charge the Tx battery since the plug on the nimh is different from any other that i have.

linkadrip

Wow it's great to know there are still the dedicated fans of the trex helis. Still have all my helis but without a proper charger to charge my lipo's they have been grounded for some time now. []. But i'm glad to see there are still dedicated people to this thread, you know who you are keep up the great work

consultjdm

Linkadrip,

It's good to see you still around. I hope you get a charger soon.

JD

corona007

welcome back............Linkadrip!

consultjdm

Shadowin,

I just picked up some deans plugs today and I need to solder them on and then I will test them. I got 3 of them. I plan on doing it tomorrow morning.

you can probably find a cheap charger there with the same output. I think the book shows the miliamp output rating and polarity of the plug so you don't fry the TX. I looked at the DX6 book I have laying around here and it shows it. You might even have a charger laying around that you could wire to your plug.

JD

consultjdm

Oh, I also picked up one of the new TREX V2 main gear setups and front gear and the bottom main shaft bolt holder for it. I will switch mine to the new gear sooner or later. The hobby shop guys said the new gear was much tougher and would not strip the main gear from motor startups or minor blade scuffing. They had the new V2 head there, just the top with the blade holders ready to be slipped on, it was $80.00. I won't get it unless I need it, hopefully I'll see a clone or something for less or the price will come down. I looked at the tail assy for the V2 also, it did not look as good as I thought it would, there were still some plastic pieces and I couldn't see that there were bearings on the shaft but I guess they're in there.

JD

cflight

Shadowin, be aware there is also either a 2A or 0.2A? fuse in the Tx. I have no experience replacing this fuse, but have read of people having no display, or connecting the wrong polarity plug (futaba) and blowing this fuse. This fuse is why we can't quick charge the Tx bat. in the Tx, as it is a part of this curcuit, to protect the Tx electronics. It is said to be an easy replacement. Just thought I'ld give you a heads up. Good Luck

Woodmandan2

Hmm guys I have a question, for the DX7, do you plug the charger into the transmitter, or do you plug it into the battery? if you only plug it into the battery i do not understand why you could not quick charge? I figues if I would quick charge it, id just take it out of the Radio. Its only held in by like one screw right? Also how many mA does the charger that comes with it put out? there should be a little lable on the charger, is it 200ma? because its a 0.2a fuse in it?
Dan

shadowin

Thanx for all your input guys. The DX7 charger indicates :-
Output Tx : DC 11.6V 110mA & Rx : DC 5.8V 110mA

I am planning to change my stock walkera nimh charger with the DX7 output plug. But the walkera charger output is 800mA. Do you think that will burn anything?

Maybe i would just order a JR transmitter battery (scared i will burn the whole transmiter if i plug in 800mA to charge). Saw one here [link]http://flying-hobby.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_94&products_id=977[/link]. It's a 2000mAh lipo and i can charge it with my balance charger. JR plug is same as the Spektrum plug, am i right?

shadowin

The charger plug goes into the side of the Transmitter when charging.

lrrps

Looks like I have open the Pandora box. [8D]

lrrps

Anyone has a buzzer on his heli to sound an alarm when the battery voltage becomes low?
I have bought one battery low alarm with buzzer and an LED that turns red when the battery is about to quit, the problem is that I can't hear the buzzer over the noise of the rotor and I can't see the LED outside even on a cloudy day.
All inputs are appreciated.

Thanks.

Tolla

Consultjdm

Dont quite follow your question there, here's what I do.

You have to keep tour head about you when setting the TX up.

You just swop the normal and the stunt curves around. Where it says PLN, P2N, PHN on the display, those are actually now you Stunt settings.
Ditto for the throttle curves.
That's why you have to keep your head about you. When the display reads 'N' thats now stunt mode.

When the display reads 'S', that's now your normal mode.

Now, that means the idle-up switch will also be in reverse. So, loosen the locknut on the idle-up switch a little and spin the whole switch arount by 180 degrees. This is easied done with the TX case open. There's plenty slack in the switch wires.

When I set the Align ESC I still use NORMAL throttle curves on the TX. Set The TLN, T2N, THN to 0.50,100 % for ESC setup.

And ther you have it.

My Normal Throttle curve is thus: TLS, T2S, THS at 0,65,100%. Normal pich curve is PLS, PLS,PHS -5, 1, +10 degrees

My idle-up throttle curve is : TLN, T2N, THN at 81,81,81% Idle-up pitch curve is PLN, P2N, PHN. -9, +2, +9 degrees

And, hey presto, the DX6 has a 'unfixed' high throttle setting in idle-up mode.