I was adjusting the heli tonight and ran across what I'm pretty sure is why I can't get the tracking right. According to the book, I think I should have 4 rubber O-rings and they should all be inside the thick washer on the feathering shaft. The photo I am attaching shows where I found the damper that was torn (outside the thick washer in relation to the center point) I'm guessing that it somehow squeezed between the casing and the washer (which is how it got cut?) The part that baffles me is, where is my other O-ring? Could it be possible the head came assembled without this other washer? Maybe this is why I could never get the tracking right?

Edit (terminology, sorry)

Yep. That would do it. A great example of why we should tear our helis apart and reassemble them from a pile of parts before ever spinning the motor one revolution. What? Of course I don't do it. But it is a very good practice, and I've just been lucky in this respect.

I do, however, go over all the screws and make sure they're tight and loctited, and I yank and pull on the blade grips to make sure they're tight and free, and rock them back and forth to check the damping.

If you have no access to another O-ring/damper, see if you can get some windshield washer hosing of the right diameter and cut it to length. I've never tried this, but a buddy on anotheRR forum does, and says it works better than stock dampers.

Oh well, I just ordered a new set from Joe over at Tech Model Products along with some spare blades and (finally) a head tach figuring maybe I'm spinning up too high. [sm=red_smile.gif] Yeah, I know... should have had one before.

I just got my first tach last week after over a year in this. As long as there are no permanent injuries, it's never too late to do it right.

Go for between 2600 - 2750 rpm headspeed at center stick with 0º pitch. This is fast enough for stability and tame enough for beginners. Measure your headspeed outdoors, as electric lights pulse and give tachs a false reading.

Bro, if you haven't tried the trueblood dampners yet, do so! They are the red ones...you only need one per side and they rock!

But you should have extra stock ones....they come with the SE v2 kit.

Skarn

Really? I'll have to check the miscellaneous spare parts that came with it. Not sure why I didn't do this to begin with. /smackforehead

I had nothing but trouble with the stock dampers. I was luck to get 15 flights out of a set before they started bulging out of the head block or ripped and came completely out. I switched to the [link=http://www.readyheli.com/TREX_V2_Head_Dampener_Upgrade_Red_Dampers_by_Tru_p/dampeners2.htm]Red TrueBlood Dampers[/link] and have not had a problem since.

hell yeah true bloods are the ****!! got those for my chopper and they rock!!! well worth the $$

Yep they are good damper and I also use them. As a note your stock dampers will last a lot longer if you grease them witn lithium grease and keep them that way. Your nitro helis also should have been greased. On my SEv2 I still have the stock o rings with well over 50 flights. No need to change if everything is working. Thats the only way I can get a set of dampers to last more than 10 flights. I do like the bloods the best.

Jim

After reading this post on True Bloods, I decided to give them a shot! All I can say is "Heck of a purchase!" My stock dampers only lasted about 7 flights before they began to slit! [:@] Installed the True Bloods in about 10 minutes and have been happy ever since. Anyone who is unsure, don't be. " BUY TRUE BLOODS!' They may cost more but you'd rather pay more than have to keep buying the stocks and taking your heli apart every few flights!!

-DK