G'Day RTD... Paul here from over the ditch mate. Is you Moki mounted upright, on side or inverted?? Reason I ask is I'm mounting mine in a DC-2 Beaver inverted and see many people run OS plugs... I just wondered why and thought the moki plug was no good [] ??

Cheers, Paul

I use no nitro fuel and the OS "f" seems to run a bit better than the Moki one.

Beaver 180,
I just got done starting my Moki1.8 that sits inverted in a Dave Platt Spitfire. I have on board glow but for the initial start up I had to use a standard glow driver because I did not have the on board glow properly grounded. I did not have any issues starting the engine and when I had the needle adjusted I removed the glow driver and she just went right on ticking! I got her to idle at 1450 and the top end was 7150 with a Xoar 19x8 prop. I am going to use the on board glow just to be on the safe side but initially the Moki gave me no problems. I am using Red Maxx FAI 0% with 18% total oil content (2% castor+16%synthetic). Oh and I am using an OS "F" plug. Hope this helps.

Happy Flying!

Loopman

""Mejzlic 19X8 propeller. Spins at a solid 7700 RPM

""0% Nitro 22% oil, consisting of 75% Klotz synthetic/25% SIG Castor - Bisson Pitts - both pipes fully open, Peak Readings - TNC Tach 19x8 MenzS - 8800 rpm ""

""FAI fuel (80% meth + 20% BeNol) spinning a Bolly 19x8 CF prop delivers a solid 8100rpm and peaked to 8400-8500 rpm on the bench after 2Lt break-in""

""1450 and the top end was 7150 with a Xoar 19x8 prop""

""straight fuel, oil edl 18%, Zinger 20 x 8, 7600 rpm""

HEY,, these are really impressive numbers !! you guys have got me thinking about the Moki 2.10,, see I need to turn a 3W 20x8 at 7200 in flight or I will not be happy, the 3W props load an engine much more than a Zinger of the same size,

do you guys know of any Moki 2.10 numbers ???

Jim

Not Sure about the 2.1 but my 1.8 was running very rich at 7100rpm's. I'm quite confidant that the 2.1 will do the trick for you and then some. I have heard of a few guys running a 20x8 on the 1.8 but most of the advice I've gotten has been leaning towards the 19x8 size prop. Good Luck!

Loopman [8D]

Would it hurt a moki 1.80 to run wildcat premium extra 10% nitro with 18% total oil,,,,, 80% synthetic, 20% degummed racing castor.??? this is a new engine.

Running it in using 10% that Wildcat could harm it, I personally wouldn't. Be safer to use the recommended ( or equiv ) fuel and it also wouldn't void a possible warranty claim. I've never needed 10% in it, ran sweet as on FAI fuel from SIG.

Hope that helps, Paul

G'day Beaver180,
sorry for the delay in responding. My moki is side mounted in a Staudacher aerobatic plane with a pitts style muffler from Slimline. I'm still using the original moki gold plug after many litres of fuel and reckon it is a beauty. I think most people use the FS plug on large engines because the large volume of new air/fuel inducted every cycle and the relatively low RPM means that there is plenty of opportunity for the standard plug to cool down in between firing strokes. My fuel is home brew straight 80% meth 15% synth 5% castor oil and it works very well.
cheers
RTD

hi,

guys i have been running a xoar 20x8 at 7200 and a 20x6 at 7700 on 5% omega and an os f plug for some time now. gives me unlimtited vertical on a gp ultimate 1.60 w/smoke. the 20x8 is a little faster in level flight but the 20x6 is quicker in the vertical lines and brakes better on downlines. the moki dosen't need to turn over 8000 rpm's to make it's power, the 7400 to 7800 range is it's sweet spot at least on this set up. i have several moki's and this is true on the 1.8 and 2.10's. when you go over 8k you get in to smaller props to turn those numbers and the motor dosen't make as much trust or pull vertical as well, just not as efficiant.
i can put a 18x8 or an 18x10 on mine and all it does is burn more fuel and dosen't preform as well.

hope this helps
brad

I just bought a used 1995 Moki 180 and it came with a manual ( miracle of all miracles ).
Here is what the old distributor, Gerard Enterprises had to say "Best plug is either the
Moki 1m.01 or 1M.05 idle bar". (I have no idea where to find these ) "For an inverted
engine the OS F plug is a good choice because its longer nose helps prevent oil from
collecting around the plug element". "Next best choice, if Moki is unavailable is the K&B
1L plug". The previous owner said he used OS#8. In Clarence Lees report on the engine
the idle bar plug was used.

In my experience there's been no need for an idle-barred plug, I had great succes with either the OS F or OS 8 plugs. the F would be my choice

CFN, Paul

Hi - I called Gerrard when he was selling the Moki 1.80, and he told me to use the K&B1L plug. Have been using it for years and it works great. When you get a good choke, you will hear the sucking noise, and then you know it is ready to start. Put your battery on the plug and give it a backward flip, and mine starts first time every time. When Horizon was selling the Moki engine, I talked to Mike McConville, and he said he uses Omega 15%. He said the engine need a little castor. I have been using this for years on my 1.8 and 2.10. They run strong and have never had a problem with them.

Bought my Moki 1.80 used in a GP 74" Extra 300s 1.60. The past owner had 37 flights on it and swore by 5% nitro w/castor and the K&B 1L plug. He was right. After priming it starts with 1 back-flip and runs strong throughout the band.

I have a hard time finding 5% locally and will begin using Omega 10% as the manual says it's fine for my elevation (Denver.) I'll be sticking with the K&B 1L to see how things go with the change in fuel. I haven't tached it yet but the previous owner said he was getting over 9000 rpms on his 18x8 setups. I agree that those higher rmps arent needed and will be propping up a bit, likley to 19x8 for starters. If anyone is still interested in this thread, I will post my reslts with the new fuel and prop.

I need help, I just picked up a used plane with a big Moki on it. I am not sure what size it is though, I think it may be a 1.8. The side says "Moki 30 RC", so I figure 30cc = 1.8. Am I right?

Thanks,

Ryan

yes, 180 is 30cc..

Jim

As the Wasp said, yes you do have the Moki 1.80. What's interesting to note is that while mine too says Moki 30 RC on one side, the other side says Moki M 180.

Please help.

I have aquired a moki 1.8 destined for my sundowner. Ideally I would to tune pipe it and create lots of noise and presence let alone extra power increase.
Any sugestions, especially prop sizes.

Also I have no instructions with this engine and havn't a clue which is the best way to start it. I keep hearing back flip it. Could you enlighten me on steps to start.

Lastly, I notice some kind of wheel on the carb which I presume is low needle. Ican see the notch., however is this similar or different to a conventional idle screw? Can it be wound in and stop and wound out and stop or does one revolution bring it back to wear it was.

Thanks

Aye up gov...

That little wheel on the carby is the low speed idle setting I believe... Your best bet is to GOOGLE Moki 1.80 instructions and download a pdf on it... Also try giving JUSTENGINES in the UK ( very very nice people ) a call as they sell em there.

Try an APC 16x10 ( see cavandish's comments on his OS BGX powered 'downer ) think he got a tad over 140mph outta his I'd say the Moki is a better motor myself

Chow for now,
Paul

You'll have better results searching "Mark 1.80" on google. Same engine, same manufacturer, just a new name to get around a distribution dispute. Hobbypeople.net should have a manual to download.

EDIT: just checked hobbypeople and they dont have the manual. I have it here in front of me but have no way to scan it for you.

I bought mine used and it has run perfect for me without ever having to touch the low end 'knob' so I can't help you there. I can tell you that yes, mine back-flip starts every time.. Prime it well then ignite the glowplug and one quick flip backwards get her running.. 1 out of 5 times it will start running backwards, but a quick tap on the kill button or jiggling the throttle at low idle always gets it running forward again.

An 18x6 was giving me around 9300 rpm so a 16x10 should scream on the right plane.

Thanks guys. I was hoping a 16x12 or 14 would be ok?? Even a 15x14??

As for the manual I have still not had any luck searching the web. I will try just engines.

This back starting techneque, I read you should spin the spinner and not prop??? does it matter?

Is it a question of feeling the compression and then spin it clockwise so it bounces against the opposite compression and then it starts???

Prop it with an 18 X 6 or 18 X 10. This is an engine that develops power at lower RPM in the 8000 to 9000 range.
It needs to be heavily primed to start well, a good shot of fuel in the carb helps a lot. Don't drown it, just a CC or so.
It will run well on no nitro fuel if you use a hot plug. OS "f" works well.
It will start by flipping in either direction but flipping it back against compression seems to work best. Use a chicken stick or glove, it doesn't kick back frequently but if it does, there is a lot of force. I hear claims of starting one by simply spinng the spinner. I don't dispute those claims but mine seem to like a good, strong backflip against compression.

The disk on the carb is, as you guessed, the idle adjustment. It is not like a needle style as it really controls the opening in a small slot. Very little movement is required to affect the adjustment.

Hope this helps, got it from Dezso Orsovai @ MOKI
(could not upload as PDF)

Yeah 8000+ is the sweet spot for the 1.8. Anything less and it really doesn't come alive IMO. K&B 1L plugs worked the best for me. The OS F kept burning up on me. The 1L's lasted forwever and were 1/3 the price. NO NITRO !!!!! The engines run best without it.

Instruction sheet (only 1st page).
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfi...34/Xv64158.jpg

Hmmmm, burned out "f" is interesting and surprising. I have 4 engines, all running on "f" plugs most of them have been in the engine for over a year. I wonder what the difference is. My plugs were bought in a group four or five years ago, I wonder if they have changed them.

Many people love the F's but I think they run a little hotter. The K&B 1L seemed to last longer. Who knows maybe I was throwing out good F's too. I wouldn't be surprized.