Yep, a 60 will eat a hole right through anyones wallet really quick. Your better off with the R50 and stay away from TT heli motors FAR AWAY! As they get broken in they tend to go lean. When they go lean on a heli you cant control you rotor RPM. You can dial in more pitch but that only makes the motor work harder and lean out to the point of a flame out. I mean Ive heard of people using them especially the new one, I think its a .39 but I hear that if you get a good one its really good but most are not made well. Its a shame because the airplane motors are so good. By the way I learned to fly in my back yard and helis do become a family function 3 ring circus.

Okay maybe I should look for a 1.50 or 1.60 then. I want this thing to knock my socks off and not be a bi*ch to land. Id just like to be able to swing a nice big prop so I can get the braking effect from it also. What are some suggestions besides the obvious like the OS 1.60? I know a 1.20 will fly it but I want it to be the first and last motor for it.

Saito 180, Os160fx, Irvine 1.50.


Less expensive alternatives

Super Tigre 2300 (1.40) MDS 1.48, Webra 1.20, GMS 1.20, Tiger Shark 1.20


These are in the exact order that I would choose, the most expensive are also my favorites.....go figure???


Best value Super Tigre or MDS 1.48


The rule of thumb for this plane is 30-33 oz engine! All of these fall in that catagory.....the Saito is the WORST on fuel, I have sucked down 20 oz of 30% $26 a gallon fuel in 9 minutes with a 180!!!

If you want it to perform like the "big boys" Keep it light! We all try to emulate $15,000 TOC planes with are smaller ones, the bigger they get the closer they are, what we forget is it is more than just a big engine! 38 oz wing load does not mean much when you have a 109" wing span, try it on a sukhoi with a 52" wing span! Even tho they run big engines producing thrust in the HUNDREDS of pounds! thier planes have the wing area for the wieght.

Keep this plane light and it will fly 3d, if it is over wieght you will think you are flying a F-16, trust....I have been there


Good luck!

Thanks. What about a ST3000? Im currently trying to get rid of a Goldberg Ultimate and a guy is willing to trade me a ST3000 for it. Ive got it listed in trades and in the 2C engine section. I would really like an OS, Saito or a Moki for it though. Ive heard that you really cant beat the Moki thrust to weight ratio. I had a Saito 150 but I think the 300 would have been a little anemic with it. I had it on the Bipe.

the ST2300 is a 31 oz with 3.7hp, very close to the OS160fx, the ST3000-3250 is a 48 oz engine with 3.2 hp......do the math.


I think the ST3000 is a great running engine, but it designed back when engines needed to be heavy to balance a plane, today the planes are built to the engines that exsist, a ST2300 with the throttle servo mounted on the box would make you a happy guy!


Take a close look at the moki 1.80/2.10, kind of heavy too for a 73" plane, they do have great power, but the moki 135 is more in the wieght range that you are looking for.

Dave patrick has a 78" extra with a ys 140 four stroke for power, the plane weighs in about 12.5 lbs and will do EVERYTHING a TOC plane will do, at scale speed!


I have a H9 pizazz that was designed for a 16 oz .46 engine, I have a 25 oz .68 engine in it....why? Because it would not hover or do flat spins.....see this plane flys off the prop, it does the moves, they just do not look "scale" does a blender so fast it looks stupid!


I hope this makes sense for you......If you have not noticed the market has shifted to 78-80" for this size flying, planes like the 80" 19lb midwest extra are a thing of the past. I use my 300xs to fly early in the season, when it is a little wet....after I have flown the .40 size for a week. The plane helps me get used to "landing" the bigger ones, it really does look a lot different on approach. The light wing loading also gets me warmed up for the hotter planes. Fly this plane and learn 3d! then get your self a GP PW extra 300, DP extra of edge 300 or a H9 80" cap 232.......or just go on to 33-35%, that is my next stop!

I am still waitiing for my DP ulti! blue, should ship next week. I have a 1.50 on the bench for it, great engine for the DP, beacuse it is MUCH better on fuel than the 180, with only a little less power.


The saito 1.50 might be a little light for power on the 300xs, but with a 18x6 prop it would 3d and hover. If you went with 605bb servos no metal gear, used a light battery, did not add any extra weight, drill the gear out in the center, get the DAve patrick .7 oz wheels, and left the wheel pants home you could keep that plane under 12lbs.....it would be a great plane and sound awesome!


Did I tell you my sig 300xs weighed 16lbs + for the very first fight? Here was my set up:


615 MG servos
1/4 scale servo for rudder
2 2700 ma NICAD batteries with double switches
magnum 1.80 ( about 50oz and .5 hp!!! junk!)
solid pilot
apc prop ( twice the wieght of wood)
cheap heavy alum spinner
rubber tires ( heavy! )
8 oz (1/2lb!) of weight in the rear.

We never weighed it, was prob near 17lbs!

This was my 3rd plane, got the engine on ebay for $100 new, I soon found out why, used MG servos...not a bad choice, but it does not need them, this plane was my #1 so i got to huge batteries cause I did not want to lose it, the pilot was a toy cut in half, he was good for 8 oz....but it looked like me! I run wood props now, the spinner was also ebay for $15, thought foam tires were "cheap" the lead was for balance!

I spent all winter with no experience or advice building this plane, I saw bits of others doing things like redundant batteries....they were using duralites tho! 1/10 of the wieght of my monster batts! after all this trouble it was in the air for 3 minutes on maiden, I was ther alone to watch it dead stick and fall 20 ft to the earth in a wing tip stall, I almost cried!

after this I added the 2.4 and started talking, I removed the heavy battery and went with 1 1300 mah NIMH, and started the lighting process, but when I finally flew it with a 1.20 engine I knew the real problem!

I think $5000 must have passed thru my plane in one way of another.......that $5000 will save me $50,000 in mistakes as I go bigger!


Last year in the Cayman islands we had a 2 hr flight delay stuck on the plane, seems it was over weight and the had to remove luggage, almost all of it, 4 days later I got my bags. Everybody on the plane was B**ching, but not me! I knew what happens to a heavy plane

Stay light......did I already say that?

Hey Guys,
Heres a couple pics of my 42cc in process of converting.
Using CH "bolt-on" ignition....super easy.

Also made a carb adapter to rotate for straight shot linkage.

Enjoy!
CrazyHerb

Here's the front shot...

Very nice looking. I am contemplating if I should continue on my conversion of the 46cc because I wont be using it for my Extra. I may end up just selling it.

I will tell you one thing....this will be the first and last time I ship an airplane! I spent the other day crating my bipe up and I have to take it to the Greyhound station in the AM. From now on I will hang onto my planes and sell local only!

helicool

what did you do with your 46 ?
i have a stinger 120 that had a st 2300 on it flew great but not enough power tried the 46 with CH on only added 4oz so i moved the servos to the rear got rid of the push rods moved the tank under the wing also went to a 10oz instead of 16oz still getting 20min flights now it like it was 13.1 pounds

plus i move the CG back about .5" now it fly much better hovers better and now i can pull out before i couldn't

this was a test i'm looking for a new plane like a DP extra and still don't know what i want to glow or gas going bigger is just to much $$