docphysics

Snauty! What's up with that header?!!?!?!! It looks normal!

Snaut Rocket

Thanks to jolly roger

Coadster67

lmao, i knew doc was gonna say something

rexrw

As soon as the engine and header get here I will hook it up and see how it goes, then I will post some pics of whatever I end up doing. I am just going to have all the parts in my hands before I really figure out what works best.

It just dawned on me that I am going to have the .28 hooked up to the 2 speed tranny in the truck, never had a .28 with 2 speed, jut a 1/8 buggy with .28 and single speed tranny. I need to change the shift point, it gets into second so fast right now.

71goat, I am sure my set up is going to end up looking similar to yours.

I might just end up getting the U shape header so I can wrap the exhaust around the back of the engine, depends on how long the pipe is and if it would scrub on my Big Joes.

rexrw

I might end up doing something like this http://www.rbinnovations.com/catalog...onster_gt2.jpg

Minus the supercharger of course.

rexrw

I am gong to go ahead and ditch my Integy piggyback's, they aren't doing work anymore. Do most people agree that the stock shocks work as well as any other ones and I should just go with those?

scottywilkes

stock shocks with Factory team alloy shock caps are brilliant, best things after Proline Powerstrokes

Snaut Rocket

Yep Just make sure you get the Ft shock caps with them.
But if you really want to go spare no expense go on ebay and get some powerstroke proline shocks.

scottywilkes

for bashing, stock shocks are better with some copper springs, they can take larger landings without bottoming out.

I love my powerstrokes, but they do on larger jumps bottom out very easily, racing, there bloody brilliant

rexrw

Please help again guys. I got my new LRP today. I am putting it in right now, but ran int oa roadblock. I took the cluth bell off the old engine, took the 23 clutch shoes off of the 3 pegs that are on the flywhweel. Now there is that nut that I assume is holding the flywheel on, cna't get it to budge but also don't have a socket that will fit over it. This may sound stupid but which way does that nut turn to losen it? What should I use to get it off? After it comes off will the flywheel slide off? I am stuck until I figure this out.

docphysics

The nut loosens counter clockwise. I use big azz pliers to grab the flywheel and an open box wrench to loosen the nut. Then most likely the flywheel is seized on there. If it doesn't slide off with some pulling off, you will need a small gear puller or terminal puller to yank 'er off.

rexrw

I ahve tons of open box ends but none that are the right size which I think is 8mm? I might have to run and get a small set or some long sockets that wil reach over it.

scottywilkes

i found that my 4 point glow plug wrench had 1 that fit over the nut perfectly, so i use a pair of visegrips on the flywheel and my glowplug wrench on the nut, really tightens it up good and is easy to undo.

Also the flywheel, i just the glow plug wrench and tap the rear of the flywheel until it frees its self from the collet.

Evader ---> MGT

Wow, me and ferrariowner do the exact same thing!!!

rexrw

I got the engine installed last night. Still have the stock exhaust hooked up because waiting on Losi exhaust to get here. The roto start swap onto the new .28 was a breeeze, everything was a breeze. I can't even break it in or run it today because it is pouring rain. Maybe the Losi exhaust will get here before I break it in, rain rain go away.

rexrw

Raining was driving me crazy so I figured I would start breaking the new engine in by just running one tank through it in the garage. It was really really hard to get it to turn over it first, so I losened the glow plug and started over. I got it to turn over once and idled for about 30 seconds and stalled. Factory settings for the LRP say 3.75 turns open for HS, so I checked it. It was about 3. Went 3.75 and tried startin it again, tons of fule came out the pipe so I figured it was flooded and 3.75 was to much. Took plug out and now it is drying out. Any suggestions on breaking this in?

Snaut Rocket

I would prefer the heat cycle method. It takes longer and a little more difficult but is alot better for the enging in the long run.

Snaut Rocket

Right here is the heat cycle/
http://www.johnnycoolguy.com/JCGR/ma..._break-in.html

scottywilkes

actually heat cycle dosnt take as long, and its funner lol. 5 tanks is all u need

rexrw

I found some time today and started breaking in the engine, trying to use the heat cycle method, problem is I can't give it any gas to get it going without it stalling right away. I am sure it is because I have it set super rich for the break in, but I don't want to run it lean either. Should I lean it up so it will get moving? All I have done is one tank at idle while trying to give it gas. Letting it cool right now.

Snaut Rocket

I would say 3 is fine for break in but if its 2 rich just lean it 1/8 of a turn.

rexrw

So I got the engine broken in today, it's good to go. Ran into a problem with the new Losi exhaust. It came after I broke it in so I tried to put it on tonight. Had to do al ittle trimming of the mud guard because like some of you said, the Losi header sticks out farther, not a problem. After I get it all trimmed up and installed I forgot to check one simple thing - where the header lines up in relation to the roto start - smack dab over it, can't get the drill in there to start it because the header covers up the roto start. I fumed for a minute then just decided I would use the AE header with the Losi pipe, great idea until I realized the Losi pipe is to long to go inside the mud guard, the tip hits the on/off switch for receiver. Fumed again and then came up with the solution - get a U shaped header that bends 180 degrees so I can route the exhaust behind the engine. I checked the length of the Losi pipe for this and it will work fine, won't rub on the tire or anything. Now I need to know where I can find a U shape header, I know a lot of you out there are running this set up, where can I get the header? For now I am back to running stock exhaust until I get the U shape header.

Snaut Rocket

you can use the u shape manifold that comes with the mgt you just have to make sure the coupler is on really tight, or it will fall out if you hit somthing hard.
If you want a losi u shaped header you can use this one http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Losi-8ight-T...QQcmdZViewItem
probably alot cheaper to get that whole piece than to buy a header seperate.
But if you still want to use it in the mud guard you have to heat up the header and bend it in to place. Or do like i did if its too long.
Cut the edge off the pipe were the wire sticks out for you to mount the pipe to the chassi. I dont have a prob with it, untill the pipe is really hot and i need to use a screw driver to turn the truck off

snowbl!nd

You could re-locate the switch or remove it altogether if you want to keep the pipe mounted on the side.

Looking at the U-shaped header that Snaut linked too i might give that a try as i'd prefer the pipe in the back.... hmm

docphysics

Uhhhhh.......... dare I ask.......... How do you use a screwdriver to turn the truck off? Please don't tell me you jam it in the flywheel.